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THE 


EXPERIENCED 


AMERICAN  HOUSEKEEPER. 


OR 


IDOttlCSSttC  Cooutfp 


FORMED  ON 


1 


FOR  IHE  USE  OF 

PRIVATE  FAMILIES. 


r 


HARTFORD : 

PUBLISHED  BY  SILAS  ANDRUS 


1829* 


♦  4 


HIND  QUARTER. 

1.  Sirloin. 

2.  Rump. 

3.  Edge  bone. 

4.  Bullock. 

5.  Mouse  Bullock 

6.  Veiny  Piece. 

7.  Thick  Flank. 

8.  Thin  Flank. 

9.  Lt{g. 


FORE  QUARTER. 

10.  Fore  Rib  five  ribs, 
ill.  Middle  Rib,  four  ribs, 
i  12.  Chuck,  three  ribs. 

13.  Shoulder,  or  leg  of  Mutton 

14.  Brisket.  [piece. 

I  15.  Clod. 

I  16.  Neck,  or  sticking  piece. 

|  17.  Shin, 
i  18.  Chuck. 


1.  Leg. 

2.  Loin  best  end. 

3.  Loin  chump  end. 

4.  Neck  best  end. 

5.  Neck  scrag  end. 


>6.  Shoulder. 

7.  Breast. 

A  Chine  is  two  Loins. 
A  saddle  is  two  Necks. 


OBSERVATIONS 


FOR  THE  USE  OF 

THE  MISTRESS  OF  A  FAMILY. 


In  every  rank  those  deserve  the  greatest  praise, 
who  best  acquit  themselves  of  the  duties  which  their 
station  requires.  Indeed,  this  line  of  conduct  is  not 
a  matter  of  choice  but  of  necessity,  if  we  would 
maintain  the  dignity  of  our  character  as  rational 
beings. 

In  the  variety  of  female  acquirements,  though  do¬ 
mestic  occupations  stand  not  so  high  in  esteem  as  they 
formerly  did,  yet  when  neglected  they  produce 
much  human  misery.  There  was  a  time  when  ladies 
knew  nothing  oeyond  their  own  family  concerns  ; 
but  in  the  present  day  there  are  many  who  know 
nothing  about  them.  Each  of  these  extremes  should 
be  avoided  :  but  is  there  no  way  to  unite  in  the  fe¬ 
male  character,  cultivation  of  talents  and  habits  of 
usefulness  ?  Happily  there  are  still  great  num¬ 
bers  in  every  situation,  whose  example  proves  that 
this  is  possible.  Instances  may  be  found  of  ladies 
in  the  higher  walks  of  life,  who  condescend  to  ex¬ 
amine  the  accounts  of  their  house-steward  ;  and, 
by  overlooking  and  wisely  directing  the  expenditure 
of  that  part  of  their  husbands’  income  which  falls 
under  their  own  inspection,  avoid  the  inconveniences 
of  embarrassed  circumstances. 

The  direction  of  a  table  is  no  inconsiderable  branch 
of  a  lady’s  concern,  as  it  involves  judgment  in  ex¬ 
it 


4 


penditure,  respectaoility  of  appearance,  and  the 
comfort  of  her  husband  and  those  who  partake  their 
hospitality. 

If  a  lady  has  never  been  accustomed,  while  single, 
to  think  of  family  management,  let  her  not  upon 
that  account  fear  that  she  cannot  attain  it ;  9he  may 
consult  others  who  are  more  experienced,  and  ac¬ 
quaint  herself  with  the  necessary  quantities  of  the 
several  articles  of  family  expenditure,  in  proportion 
to  the  number  it  consists  of,  the  proper  prices  to 
pay,  &c.  &c. 

A  minute  account  of  the  annual  income,  and  the 
times  of  payment,  should  be  taken  in  writing  ;  like¬ 
wise  an  estimate  of  the  supposed  amount  of  each  ar¬ 
ticle  of  expense  ;  and  those  who  are  early  accus¬ 
tomed  to  calculations  on  domestic  articles,  will  ac¬ 
quire  so  accurate  a  knowledge  of  what  their  estab¬ 
lishment  requires,  as  will  give  them  the  happy  me¬ 
dium  between  prodigality  and  parsimony,  without 
acquiring  the  character  of  meanness. 

Many  families  have  owed  their  prosperity  full  as 
much  to  the  propriety  of  female  management,  as  to 
the  knowledge  and  activity  of  the  father. 

The  following  hints  may  be  useful  as  well  as  eco¬ 
nomical  : — 

Every  article  should  be  kept  in  the  place  best  suit¬ 
ed  to  it,  as  much  waste  may  be  thereby  avoided. 

Vegetables  will  keep  best  on  a  stone  floor,  if  the 
air  be  excluded. — Meat  in  a  cold  dry  place. — Sugar 
and  sweetmeats  require  a  dry  place  ;  so  does  salt. — 
Candles,  cold,  but  not  damp. — Dried  meats,  hams, 
&c.  the  same.  All  sorts  of  seeds  for  puddings, 
saloop,  rice,  &c.  should  be  close  covered,  to 
preserve  from  insects;  but  that  will  not  prevent 
it,  if  long  kept. 


o 


"Bread  is  now  so  heavy  an  article  of  expense,  that 
all  waste  should  be  guarded  against ;  and  having 
it  cut  in  the  room  will  tend  much  to  prevent  it. — 
Since  the  scarcity  in  1795  and  1800,  that  custom  has 
been  much  adopted.  It  should  not  be  cut  until  a 
day  old.  Earthen  pans  and  covers  keep  it  best. 

Straw  to  lay  apples  on  should  be  quite  dry,  to 
prevent  a  musty  taste. 

Large  pears  should  be  tied  up  by  the  stalk. 

Basil,  savoury,  or  knotted  marjorum,  or  thyme, 
to  be  used  when  herbs  are  ordered  ;  but  with  dis¬ 
cretion,  as  they  are  very  pungent. 

The  best  means  to  preserve  blankets  from  moths 
is  to  fold  them  and  lay  them  under  the  feather-beds 
that  are  in  use  ;  and  they  should  be  shaken  occa¬ 
sionally.  When  soiled,  they  should  be  washed,  not 
scoured. 

Soda,  by  softening  the  water,  saves  a  great  deal 
of  soap,  It  should  be  melted  in  a  large  jug  of  wa¬ 
ter,  some  of  which  pour  into  the  tubs  and  boiler  ; 
and  when  the  lather  becomes  weak,  add  more.  The 
new  improvement  in  soft  soap  is,  if  properly  used,  u 
saving  of  near  half  in  quantity. 

Many  good  laundresses  advise  soaping  linen  in 
warm  water  the  night  previous  to  washing,  as  facili¬ 
tating  the  operation  with  less  friction. 

Soap  should  be  cut  with  a  wire  or  twine,  in  pie¬ 
ces  that  will  make  a  long  square  when  first  brought 
in,  and  kept  out  of  the  air  two  or  three  weeks  ;  for 
if  it  dry  quick  it  will  crack,  and  when  wet,  break. 
Put  it  on  a  shelf,  leaving  a  space  between,  and  let 
it  grow  hard  gradually.  Thus,  it  will  save  a  full 
third  in  the  consumption. 

Some  of  the  lemons  and  oranges  used  for  juice 
should  be  pared  first  to  preserve  the  peel  dry  •. 

1* 


6 


some  should  be  halved,  and  when  squeezed,  the 
pulp  cut  out,  and  the  outside  dried  for  grating.  If 
for  boiling  in  any  liquid,  the  first  way  is  best. 
When  these  fruits  are  cheap,  a  proper  quantity 
should  be  bought  and  prepared  as  above  directed, 
especially  by  those  who  live  in  the  country,  where 
they  cannot  always  be  had  ;  and  they  are  perpetu¬ 
ally  wanted  in  cookery. 

When  whites  of  eggs  are  used  for  jelly,  or  other 
purposes,  contrive  to  have  pudding,  custard,  &,c.  to 
employ  the  yolks  also.  Should  you  not  want  them 
for  several  hours,  beat  them  up  with  a  little  water, 
and  put  them  in  a  cool  place,  or  they  will  be  hard¬ 
ened  and  useless.  It  is  a  mistake  of  old,  to  think 
that  the  whites  made  cakes  and  puddings  heavy  ;  on 
the  contrary,  if  beaten  long  and  separately,  they 
contribute  greatly  to  give  lightness,  are  an  advan¬ 
tage  to  paste,  and  make  a  pretty  dish  beaten  with 
fruit,  to  set  in  cream,  &c. 

If  copper  utensils  be  used  in  the  kitchen,  the  cook 
should  be  charged  to  be  very  careful  not  to  let  the 
tin  be  rubbed  off,  and  to  have  them  fresh  done  when 
the  least  defect  appears,  and  never  to  put  by  any 
soup,  gravy,  &c.  in  them,  or  any  metal  utensil ;  stone 
and  earthen  vessels  should  be  provided  for  those 
purposes,  as  likewise  plenty  of  common  dishes,  that 
the  table-set  may  not  be  used  to  put  by  cold  meat. 

Tin  vessels,  if  kept  damp,  soon  rust,  which  causes 
holes.  Fenders,  and  tin  linings  of  flower-pots,  &c. 
should  be  painted  every  year  or  two. 

Vegetables  soon  sour,  and  corrode  metals  and 
glazed  red  ware,  by  which  a  strong  poison  is  pro¬ 
duced.  Some  years  ago  the  death  of  several  gen¬ 
tlemen  was  occasioned  at  Salt-hill,  by  the  cook  send- 


7 


ing  a  ragout  to  the  table,  which  she  had  kept  from 
the  preceding  day  in  a  copper  vessel  badly  tinned. 

Vinegar,  by  its  acidity,  does  the  same,  the  glazing 
being  of  lead  or  arsenic. 

The  best  way  of  scalding  fruits,  or  boiling  vinegar, 
is  in  a  stone  jar  on  a  hot  iron  hearth  :  or  by  putting 
the  vessel  into  a  saucepan  of  water,  called  a  water- 
bath. 

If  chocolate,  coffee,  jelly,  gruel,  bark,  &lc.  be  suf¬ 
fered  to  boil  over,  the  strength  is  lost. 

In  the  following  and  indeed  all  other  receipts, 
though  the  quantities  may  be  as  accurately  directed 
as  possible,  yet  much  must  be  left  to  the  discretion 
of  the  person  w  ho  uses  them.  The  different  tastes 
of  people  requires  more  or  less  of  the  flavour  of 
spices,  salt,  garlic,  butter  &c.  which  can  never  be 
ordered  by  general  rules  ;  and  if  the  cook  has  not 
a  good  taste,  and  attention  to  that  of  her  employers, 
nc-t  all  the  ingredients  which  nature  and  art  can  fur¬ 
nish,  will  give  exquisite  flavour  to  her  dishes.  The 
proper  articles  should  be  at  hand,  and  she  must  pro¬ 
portion  them  until  the  true  zest  be  obtained,  and  a 
variety  of  flavour  be  given  to  the  different  dishes 
served  at  the  same  time. 

Those  who  require  maigre  dishes  will  find  abun¬ 
dance  in  this  little  work  ;  and  where  they  are  not 
strictly  so,  by  suet  or  bacon  being  directed  into  the 
stuffings,  the  cook  must  use  butter  instead ;  and  where 
meat  gravies  (or  stock,  as  they  are  called)  are  or¬ 
dered,  those  made  of  fish  must  be  adopted. 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  CARVING. 

The  carving-knife  for  a  lady  should  be  light,  and 
of  a  middling  size  and  a  fine  edge.  Strength  is  less 


8 


required  than  address,  in  the  manner  of  using  it : 
and  to  facilitate  this  the  cook  should  give  orders  to 
the  butcher  to  divide  the  joints  of  the  bones  of  all 
carcass-joints  of  mutton,  lamb,  and  veal,  (such  as 
neck,  breast,  and  loin  ;)  which  may  then  be  easily 
cut  into  thin  sclices  attached  to  the  adjoining  bones. 
If  the  whole  of  the  meat  belonging  to  each  bone 
should  be  too  thick,  a  small  slice  may  be  taken  off 
between  every  two  bones. 

The  more  fleshy  joints  (as  fillet  of  veal,  leg  or 
saddle  of  mutton,  and  beef.)  are  to  be  helped  in  thin 
slices,  neatly  cut  and  smooth  ;  observing  to  let  the 
knife  pass  down  to  the  bone  in  the  mutton  and  beef 
joints. 

The  dish  should  not  be  too  far  off  the  carver; 
as  it  gives  an  awkward  appearance,  and  makes  the 
task  more  difficult.  Attention  is  to  be  paid  to  help 
every  one  to  a  part  of  such  articles  as  are  consi¬ 
dered  the  best. 

In  helping  fish  take  care  not  to  break  the  flakes  ; 
which  in  cod  and  very  fresh  salmon  are  large  and 
contribute  much  to  the  beauty  of  its  appearance.  A 
fish  knife,  not  being  sharp,  divides  it  best  on  this 
account.  Help  a  part  of  the  roe,  milt,  or  liver,  to 
each  person.  The  heads  of  carp,  part  of  those  of 
cod  and  salmon,  sounds  of  cod,  and  fins  of  turbot, 
are  likewise  esteemed  niceties,  and  are  to  be  attend¬ 
ed  to  accordingly. 

In  cutting  up  any  wild-fowl,  duck,  goose,  or  tur¬ 
key,  for  a  large  party,  if  you  cut  the  slices  down 
from  pinion  to  pinion,  without  making  wings,  ther© 
will  be  more  prime  pieces. 


EXPERIENCED 


AMERICAN  HOUSEKEEPER. 


FISH. 

To  choose  Fish. 

Rock  Fish. — A  remarkably  fine,  firm  and  well  fla¬ 
voured  fish,  should  be  chosen  by  the  redness  of  the 
gills  and  a  full  bright  eye  ;  if  the  eye  is  sunken  and 
the  gills  pale,  they  have  been  too  long  out  of  the 
water  ;  their  fineness  depends  on  their  being  cook¬ 
ed  immediately  after  they  are  killed  ;  the  same  fish 
in  New-York,  and  to  the  eastward  of  it,  is  known 
by  the  name  of  Streaked-Bass. 

Sheep's  Head. — This  fish  is  generally  esteemed 
one  of  the  finest  brought  to  our  markets.  It  should 
be  firm  and  thick,  and  the  eyes  bright.  They  are 
in  season  during  the  whole  summer. 

Sea  Bass  and  Black  Fish  are  fine  solid  fish,  and 
generally  to  be  had  alive  in  the  Philadelphia  market 
and  to  the  eastward,  it  is  seldom  seen  in  the  southern 
market. 

Salmon. — If  new,  the  flesh  is  of  a  fine  red,  (the 
gills  particularly,)  the  scales  bright,  and  the 
whole  fish  stiff.  When  just  killed,  there  is  a  white¬ 
ness  between  the  flakes  which  gives  a  great  firm- 


10 

ness  ;  by  keeping,  this  melts  down,  and  the  fish  is 
more  rich. 

Cod.- — The  gills  should  be  very  red,  the  fish 
should  be  very  thick  at  the  neck,  the  flesh  white 
and  firm,  and  the  eyes  fresh.  When  flabby  they 
are  not  good.  They  are  in  season  from  the  be¬ 
ginning  of  December  till  the  end  of  April. 

Shad. — If  good,  they  are  very  white  and  thick, 
their  gills  red  and  the  eyes  bright  ;  the  \/hole 
fish  must  be  stiff  and  firm.  Season,  April  and  May. 

Herrings. — If  good,  their  gills  are  of  a  fine  red 
and  the  eyes  bright  ;  as  is  likewise  the  whole  fish, 
which  must  be  stiff  and  firm. 

Soles. — If  good,  they  are  thick,  and  the  belly  is  of 
a  cream-colour  ;  if  this  is  of  a  bluish  cast  and  flabby, 
they  are  not  fresh.  They  are  in  the  market  almost 
the  whole  year,  but  are  in  the  highest  perfection 
about  mid-summer. 

Whitings. — The  firmness  of  the  body  and  fins,  is 
to  be  looked  to,  as  in  herrings  ;  their  high  season  is 
during  the  first  three  months  of  the  year,  but  they 
may  be  had  a  great  part  of  it. 

Mackerel. — Choose  as  whitings.  Their  season  is 
May,  June,  and  July.  They  are  so  tender  a  fish 
that  they  carry  and  keep  worse  than  any  other. 

Pike. — For  freshness  observe  the  above  marks. 
The  best  are  taken  in  rivers  ;  they  are  very  dry 
fish,  and  are  much  indebted  to  stuffing  and  sauce. 

Carp  live  some  time  out  of  water,  and  may  there¬ 
fore  get  wasted  ;  it  is  best  to  kill  them  as  soon  as 
caught,  to  prevent  this.  The  same  signs  of  freshness 
attend  them  as  other  fish. 

Trout. — They  are  a  fine-flavoured  fresh-water 
fish,  and  should  be  killed  and  dressed  as  soon  as 
caught. — When  they  are  to  be  bought,  examine 


11 


whether  the  gills  are  red  and  hard  to  open,  the 
eyes  bright,  and  the  body  stiff.  The  season  is  July, 
August  and  September. 

Perch. — Take  the  general  rules  given  to  distin¬ 
guish  the  freshness  of  other  fish. 

Mullets. — The  sea  are  preferred  to  the  river  mul¬ 
lets,  and  the  red  to  the  gray.  They  thould  be  very 
firm. — Their  season  is  August. 

Gudgeons. — They  are  chosen  by  the  same  rules 
as  other  fish.  They  are  taken  in  running  streams  ; 
come  in  about  midsummer,  and  are  to  be  had  for  five 
or  six  months. 

Eels. — There  is  a  greater  difference  in  the  good¬ 
ness  of  eels  than  of  any  other  fish.  The  true  silver- 
eel  (so  called  from  the  bright  colour  of  the  belly,) 
is  caught  in  all  our  rivers  ;  those  taken  in  great 
floods  are  generally  good,  but  in  ponds  they  have 
usually  a  strong  rank  flavour.  Except  the  middle 
of  summer,  they  are  always  in  season. 

Flounders. — They  should  be  thick,  firm,  and  have 
their  eyes  bright.  They  very  soon  become  flabby 
and  bad.  They  are  in  season  from  January  to 
March,  and  from  July  to  September. 

Lobsters. — If  they  have  not  been  long  taken,  the 
claws  will  have  a  strong  motion  when  you  put  your 
finger  on  the  eyes  and  press  them.  The  heaviest 
are  the  best,  and  it  is  preferable  to  boil  them  at 
home.  When  you  buy  them  ready-boiled,  try 
whether  their  tails  are  stiff,  and  pull  them  up  with  a 
spring,  otherwise  that  part  will  be  flaDby.  The 
cock-lobster  is  known  by  the  narrow  back  part  of 
his  tail ;  and  the  uppermost  fins  within  it  are  stiff  and 
hard  ;  but  those  of  the  hen  are  soft,  and  the  tail  broad¬ 
er.  The  male,  though  generally  smaller,  has  the 


12 


highest  flavour,  the  flesh  is  firmer,  and  the  colour 
when  boiled  is  a  deeper  red. 

Crabs. — The  heaviest  are  best,  and  those  of  a 
middling  size  are  sweetest.  If  light  they  are  watery, 
when  in  perfection  thejoints  of  the  legs  are  stiff,  and 
the  body  has  a  very  agreeable  smell.  The  eyes 
look  dead  and  loose  when  stale. 

Prawns  and  Shrimps. — When  fresh  they  have  a 
sweet  flavour,  are  firm  and  stiff,  and  the  colour  is 
bright. — Shrimps  are  of  the  prawn  kind,  and  may  be 
judged  by  the  same  rules. 

Oi/sters. — They  are  taken  in  every  section  of  the 
Union,  on  the  seaboard;  those  most  esteemed  are 
taken  in  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  on  York  Bank,  in  the 
Bay  of  New  York,  and  when  alive  and  strong,  the 
shell  is  close. — They  should  be  eaten  as  soon  as 
as  opened,  otherwise  they  lose  their  flavour. 
In  choosing,  caFe  should  be  taken  to  get  them  with 
a  thin  sharp  shell,  as  this  is  a  mark  of  theii  being 
young  ;  and  when  open,  the  oysters  should  have  a 
plump  solid  appearance ;  the  largest  are  by  no 
means  the  best. 

Besides  the  above  enumerated  fish,  our  waters 
afford  an  immense  quantity,  may  of  which  are  ex¬ 
tremely  delicate,  particularly  as  pan  fish  ;  but  as 
the  directions  already  given  may  be  applied  to  them 
it  is  deemed  unnecessary  to  go  more  into  detail. 

Terrapins. — There  are  several  species  ;  those 
most  preferred  are  taken  in  the  Chesapeake  Bay, 
at  the  mouths  of  the  Potomac,  Chester,  and  other 
rivers. — Those  that  are  full  and  heavy  for  the  size 
are  the  best ;  those  with  a  smooth  shell  are  old. 

Turtle. — There  are  several  species,  but  the  green 
is  in  the  highest  estimation  for  the  table,  and  is  gen¬ 
erally  brought  to  us  from  the  West  India  islands* 


IQ 

O 

They  weigh  from  eighty  to  two  hundred  pounds ; 
when  an  opportunity  of  choice  offers,  those  which 
are  heaviest  in  proportion  to  their  bulk,  are  to  he 
preferred  ;  and  the  general  liveliness  of  the  animal 
is  also  to  be  attended  to. 

To  boil  Salmon. 

Clean  it  carefully,  boil  it  gently,  and  take  it  out 
of  the  water  as  soon  as  done.  Let  the  water  be 
warm  if  the  fish  be  split.  If  underdone,  it  is  very 
unwholesome. — Shrimp  or  anchovy  sauce. 

To  broil  Salmon. 

Cut  slices  an  inch  thick,  and  season  with  pepper 
and  salt ;  lay  each  slice  in  half  a  sheet  of  white  pa¬ 
per,  well  buttered,  twist  the  ends  of  the  paper,  and 
broil  the  slices  over  a  slow  fire  six  or  eight  minutes. 
Serve  in  the  paper  with  anchovy  sauce. 

An  excellent  dish  of  dried  Salmon. 

Pull  some  into  flakes  ;  have  ready  some  eggs 
boiled  hard  and  chopped  large  ;  put  both  into  half  a 
pint  of  thin  cream,  and  two  or  three  ounces  of  but¬ 
ter  rubbed  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour  ;  skim  it  and 
stir  till  boiling  hot :  make  a  wall  of  mashed  potatoes 
round  the  inner  edge  of  a  dish,  and  pour  the  above 
into  it. 

Salmon  collared. 

Split  such  a  part  of  the  fish  as  may  be  sufficient 
to  make  a  handsome  roll,  wash  and  wipe  it,  and, 
having  mixed  salt,  white  pepper,  pounded  mace, 
and  Jamaica  pepper,  in  quantity  to  season  it  very 
high,  rub  it  inside  and  out,  well.  Then  roll  it  tight, 
and  bandage  it,  put  as  much  water  and  one  third 
vinegar  as  will  cover  it,  with  bay-leaves,  salt,  and 
both  sorts  of  pepper.  Cover  close,  and  simmer  till 

O 


14 


done  enough.  Drain  and  boil  quick  the  liquor,  and 
put  on  when  cold.  Serve  with  fennel.  It  is  an 
elegant  dish,  and  extremely  good. 

To  dress  Halibut. 

Having  cut  the  Halibut  in  thm  slices,  fry  them 
with  butter,  afterwards  boil  the  bones  of  the  fish 
with  four  onions,  some  celery  and  thyme,  for  half  an 
hour,  in  a  little  water.  Then  strain  it,  and  stew 
the  fish  for  half  an  hour  in  a  little  water,  with  the 
addition  of  some  butter  browned.  Season  with 
white  pepper,  a  spoonful  of  catsup,  salt,  and  mace, 
a  spoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  little  shred  lemon 
neel.  Add  flour  and  fresh  butter  for  thicking  it. 

Cod. 

Some  people  boil  the  cod  whole ;  but  a  large 
head  and  shoulders  contain  all  the  fish  that  is  pro¬ 
per  to  help  the  thinner  parts  being  overdone  and 
tasteless  before  the  thick  are  ready.  But  the  whole 
fish  may  be  purchased  at  times  more  reasonably  ; 
and  the  lower  half,  if  sprinkled  and  hung  up,  will  be 
in  high  perfection  one  or  two  days.  Or  it  may  be 
made  salter,  and  served  with  egg-sauce,  potatoes., 
and  parsnips. 

Cod’s  Head  and  Shoulders. 

Tie  it  up,  and  put  it  on  the  fire  in  cold  water 
which  will  completely  cover  it ;  throw  a  handful  of 
salt  into  it.  Great  care  should  be  taken  to  serve  it 
without  the  smallest  speck  of  black  or  scum.  Gar¬ 
nish  with  a  large  quantity  of  double  parsley,  lemon, 
horse-radish,  and  the  milt,  roe,  and  liver,  and  fried 
smelts  if  approved.  Serve  with  plenty  of  Oyster 
or  Shrimp  sauce,  and  anchovy  and  butter. 

Crimp  Cod 

Boil,  broil,  or  fry. 


Cod  sounds  boiled. 

Soak  them  in  warm  water  half  an  hour,  then 
scrape  and  clean  ;  and  if  to  be  dressed  white,  boil 
them  in  milk  and  water  ;  when  fender,  serve  them 
in  a  napkin,  with  egg  sauce.  The  salt  must  not  be 
much  soaked  out,  unless  for  fricassee. 

Cod  sounds  to  look  like  small  chickens. 

A  good  maigre-day  dish.  Wash  three  large 
sounds  nicely,  and  boil  them  in  milk  and  water,  but 
not  too  tender ;  when  cold,  put  a  forcemeat  of 
chopped  oysters,  crumbs  of  bread,  a  bit  of  butter, 
nutmeg,  pepper,  salt,  and  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  ; 
spread  it  thin  over  the  sounds,  and  roll  up  each  in 
the  form  of  a  chi -ken,  skew-ering  it  ;  then  lard  them 
as  you  would  chickens,  dust  a  little  flour  over,  and 
roast  them  in  a  tin  oven  slowly.  When  done 
en  'nigh,  pour  over  them  a  fine  oyster  sauce.  Serve 
lot  side  or  corner  dish. 

To  broil  Cod  sounds. 

Scald  in  hot  water,  rub  well  with  salt,  pull  off  the 
dirty  skin,  and  put  them  to  simmer  till  tender  ;  lake 
them  out,  flour,  and  broil.  While  this  is  doing, 
season  a  little  brown  gravy  with  pepper,  salt,  a  tea¬ 
spoonful  of  soy,  and  a  little  mustard  ;  give  it  a  boil 
with  a  bit  of  flour  and  butter,  and  pour  it  over  the 
sounds.  , 

Cod  sounds  ragout. 

Prepare  as  above  ;  then  stew  them  in  white  gravy 
seasoned,  cream,  butter,  and  a  little  bit  of  flour  ad¬ 
ded  before  you  serve,  gently  boiling  up.  A  bit  ot 
lemon  peel,  nutmeg,  and  the  least  pounded  mace, 
should  give  the  flavour. 

To  dress  salt  Cod. 

Soak  and  clean  the  piece  you  mean  to  dress,  then 


16 


lay  it  all  night  in  water,  with  a  glass  of  vinegar.  Boil 
it  enough,  then  break  it  into  flakes  on  the  dish  ;  pour 
over  it  parsneps  boiled,  beaten  in  a  mortar,  and  then 
boil  up  with  cream  and  a  large  piece  of  butter  rub¬ 
bed  with  a  bit  of  dour.  It  may  be  served  as  above 
with  egg-sauce  instead  of  the  parsnep,  and  the  root 
sent  up  whole  ;  or  the  fish  may  be  boiled  and  sent 
up  without  flaking,  and  saqces  as  above. 

To  dress  f  resh  Sturgeon. 

Cut  slices,  rub  egg  over  them,  then  sprinkle  wi  h 
crumbs  of  bread,  parsley,  pepper,  salt ;  fold  them 
in  paper,  and  broil  gently.  Sauce — butter,  ancho¬ 
vy,  soy. 

To  roast  Sturgeon. 

Put  it  on  a  lark-spit,  then  tie  it  on  a  large  spit ; 
baste  it  constantly  with  butter,  and  serve  with  a 
good  gravy,  an  anchovy,  a  squeeze  of  Seville  orange 
or  lemon,  and  a  glass  of  sherry. 

Perch. 

Put  them  into  cold  water,  boil  them  carefully, 
and  serve  with  melted  butter  and  soy.  Perch  are 
a  most  delicate  fish.  They  may  be  either  fried  or 
stewed,  but  in  stewing  they  do  not  preserve  so  good 
a  fiavour. 

To  fry  Trout 

Scale,  gut,  and  well  wash  ;  then  dry  them,  and 
lay  them  separately  on  a  board  before  the  fire,  after 
dusting  some  flour  over  them.  Fry  them  of  a  fine 
colour  with  fresh  dripping  ;  serve  with  crimp  pars¬ 
ley,  and  plain  butter. — Perch  may  be  done  the  same 
way. 

Trout  a-la-Genevoise. 

Clean  the  fish  very  well  ;  put  it  into  your  stew- 
pan,  adding  half  Champagne,  and  half  Mosselle,  or 


17 


Rhenish,  or  sherry  wine.  Season  it  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  onion,  a  few  cloves  stuck  in  it,  and  a  small 
bunch  of  parsley  and  thyme ;  put  it  in  a  crust  of 
French  bread  ;  set  it  on  a  quick  fire.  When  the 
fish  is  done,  take  the  bread  out,  bruise  it,  and  then 
thicken  the  sauce  ;  add  flour  and  a  little  butter,  and 
let  it  boil  up.  See  that  your  sauce  is  of  a  proper 
thickness.  Lay  your  fish  on  the  dish,  and  pour  the 
sauce  over  it. — Serve  it  with  sliced  lemon  and  fried 
bread. 

Mackerel. 

Boil,  and  serve  with  butter  and  fennel. 

lo  broil  them,  split,  and  sprinkle  with  herbs, 
pepper,  and  salt  ;  or  stutf  with  the  same,  crumbs 
and  chopped  fennel. 

To  bake  Pike. 

Scale  it,  and  open  as  near  the  throat  as  vou  can, 
then  stuff  it  with  the  following : — grated  bread' 
herbs,  anchovies,  oysters,  suet,  salt,  pepper,  mace, 
half  a  pint  of  cream,  four  yolks  of  eggs  ;  mix  all 
over  the  fire  till  it  thickens,  then  put  it  into  the  fish, 
and  sew  it  up,  butter  should  be  put  over  it  in  little 
bits,  bake  it.  Serve  sauce  of  gravy,  butter,  and 
anchovy.  Note— if,  in  helping  a  pike,  the  back  and 
belly  are  slit  up,  and  each  slice  .gently  drawn  down¬ 
wards,  there  will  be  fewer  bones  given. 

To  dry  Haddock. 

Choose  them  of  two  or  three  pounds  weight,  take 
out  the  gills,  eyes,  and  entrails,  and  remove  the 
blood  from  the  back-bone.  Wipe  them  dry,  and 
put  some  salt  into  the  bodies  and  eyes.  Lay  them 
on  a  board  for  a  night,  then  hang  them  up  in  a  dry 
place,  and  after  three  or  four  days  they  will  be  fit 
to  eat ;  skin  and  rub  them  with  egg*,  and  strew 

2* 


18 


crumbs  over  them.  Lay  them  before  the  fire,  and 
baste  with  butter  until  brown  enough.  Serve  with 
egg  sauce.  Whitings,  if  large,  are  excellent  this 
way  ;  and  it  will  prove  an  accommodation  in  the 
country,  where  there  is  no  regular  supply  of  fish 
Stuffing  for  Pike,  Haddock ,  and  small  Cod. 

Take  equal  parts  of  fat  bacon,  beef-suet  and  fresh 
butter,  some  parsley,  thyme,  and  savoury  ;  a  little 
onion,  and  a  few  leaves  of  scented  marjorum  shred 
fine  ;  an  anchovy  or  two  ;  a  little  salt  and  nutmeg, 
and  some  pepper. 

To  fry  Smelts. 

They  should  not  be  washed  more  than  is  necessa¬ 
ry  to  clean  them.  Dry  them  in  a  cloth,  then  lightly 
flour  them,  but  shake  it  off.  Dip  them  into  plenty 
of  egg,  then  into  bread  crumbs  grated  fine,  and 
plunge  them  into  a  good  pan  of  boiling  lard  ;  let  them 
continue  gently  boiling,  and  a  few  minutes  will  make 
them  a  bright  yellow  brown.  T ake  care  not  to  take 
off  the  light  roughness  of  the  crumbs,  or  their  beau¬ 
ty  will  be  lost. 

Spitchcock  Eels. 

Take  one  or  two  large  eels,  leave  the  skm  on, 
cut  them  into  pieces  of  three  inches  long,  opon  them 
on  the  belly-side,  and  clean  them  nicely  ;  wipe 
them  dry,  and  then  wet.  them  with  beaten  egg,  and 
strew  over  on  both  sides  chopped  parsley,  pepper, 
salt,  a  very  little  sage,  and  a  bit  of  mace  pounded 
fine  and  mixed  with  the  seasoning.  Rub  the  grid¬ 
iron  with  a  bit  of  suet,  and  broil  the  fish  of  a  fine 
colour.  Serve  with  anchovy  and  butter  for  sauce 

Fried  Eels. 

If  small,  they  should  be  curled  round  and  fried, 
being  first  dipped  into  egg  and  crumbs  of  bread 


19 


Boiled  Eels. 

The  small  ones  are  best — do  them  in  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  with  a  good  deal  of  parsley, 
which  should  be  served  up  with  them  and  the  li¬ 
quor.  Serve  chopped  parsley  and  butter  for  sauce. 

Eel  broth ,  very  nourishing  for  the  sick. 

Do  as  above  ;  but  stew  two  hours,  and  add  an 
onion  and  peppercorns — salt  to  taste. 

Collared  Eel. 

Bone  a  large  eel,  but  do  not  skin  it ;  mix  pepper, 
salt,  mace,  alspice,  and  a  clove  or  two,  in  the  finest 
powder,  and  rub  over  the  whole  inside  ;  roll  it  tight, 
and  bind  with  a  coarse  tape.  Boil  in  salt  and  water 
till  enough,  then  add  vinegar,  and  when  cold  keep 
the  collar  in  pickle.  Serve  it  either  whole  or  in 
slices.  Chopped  sage,  parsley  and  a  little  thyme, 
knotted  marjorum,  and  savoury,  mixed  with  the 
spices,  greatly  improve  the  taste. 

Flounders. 

Let  them  be  rubbed  with  salt  inside  and  out,  and 
lie  two  hours  to  give  them  some  firmness.  Dip 
them  into  egg,  cover  with  crumbs,  and  fry  them. 

To  <lress  Red  Herrings. 

Choose  lose  that  are  large  md  moist,  cut  them 
open  and  ur  some  boiling  small  beer  over  them 
to  soak  hal  n  hour  ;  drain  them  dry,  and  make 
them  just  hot  through  before  the  fire,  then  rub 
some  cold  butter  over  them  and  serve.  Egg-sauce, 
or  buttered  eggs,  and  mashed  potatoes,  should  be 
sent  up  with  them. 

Baked  Herrings. 

Wash  and  drain  without  wiping  them  ;  season 
with  alspice  in  fine  powder,  salt,  and  a  few  whole 
doves  ;  lay  them  in  a  pan  with  plenty  of  black  pep- 


20 


per,  an  onion,  and  a  few  bay  leaves.  Add  half  vine¬ 
gar  and  half  small  beer,  enough  to  cover  them. 
Put  paper  over  the  pan,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven. 
If  you  like,  throw  saltpetre  over  them  the  night  be¬ 
fore,  to  make  them  look  red.  Gut,  but  do  not 
open  them. 

Fried  Herrings. 

Serve  them  of  a  light  brown,  with  onions  sliced 
and  fried. 

Broiled  Herrings. 

Flour  them  first,  and  do  of  a  good  colour  ;  plain 
butter  for  sauce. 

To  pot  Lobsters. 

Half-boil  them,  pick  out  the  meat,  cut  it  into 
small  bits,  season  with  mace,  white  pepper,  nutmeg, 
and  salt,  press  close  into  a  pot,  and  cover  with  but¬ 
ter  ;  bake  half  an  hour  ;  put  the  spawn  in.  When 
cold  take  the  lobster  out,  and  put  it  into  the  pots 
with  a  little  of  the  butter.  Beat  the  other  butter  in 
a  mortar  with  some  of  the  spawn  ;  then  mix  that 
coloured  butter  with  as  much  as  will  be  sufficient  to 
cover  the  pots,  and  strain  it.  Cayenne  may  be 
added,  if  approved. 

Stewed  Lobster ,  a  very  high  relish. 

Pick  the  lobster,  put  the  berries  into  a  dish  that 
has  a  lamp,  and  rub  them  down  with  a  bit  of  butter, 
two  spoonfuls  of  any  sort  of  gravy,  one  of  soy,  or 
walnut-catsup,  a  little  salt  and  Cayenne,  and  a 
spoonful  of  port ;  stew  the  lobster  cut  into  bits  with 
the  gravy  as  above. 

Buttered  Lobsters. 

Pick  the  meat  out,  cut  it,  ,  and  warm  with  a  little 
weak  brown  gravy,  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  and  butter, 
with  a  little  flour.  If  done  white,  a  little  white 
gravy  and  cream. 


21 


To  roast  Lobsters. 

When  you  have  half-boiled  the  lobster  take  it  out 
of  the  water,  and  while  hot,  rub  it  with  butter  and 
lay  it  before  the  fire.  Continue  basting  it  with  but¬ 
ter  till  it  has  a  fine  froth. 

Currie  for  Lobsters  or  Prawns. 

Take  them  from  the  shells,  and  lay  into  a  pan, 
with  a  small  piece  of  mace,  three  or  four  spoonfuls 
of  veal  gravy,  and  four  of  cream  ;  rub  smooth  one 
or  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  currie-powder,  a  tea-spoon¬ 
ful  of  flour,  and  an  ounce  of  butter ;  simmer  an 
hour  ;  squeeze  half  a  lemon  in,  and  add  salt. 

Prawns  and  Cray-fish  in  jelly,  a  beautiful  dish. 

Make  a  savoury  fish-jelly,  and  put  some  into  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  small  dish  ;  when  cold  lay  the 
cray-fish  with  their  back  downwards,  and  pour  more 
jelly  over  them.  Turn  out  when  cold. 

To  butter  Prawns  or  Shrimps. 

Take  them  out  of  the  shells  ;  and  warm  them 
with  a  little  good  gravy,  a  bit  of  butter  and  flour,  a 
scrape  of  nutmeg,  salt,  and  pepper  ;  simmer  a  min¬ 
ute  or  two,  and  serve  with  sippets  ;  or  with  a  cream 
sauce,  instead  of  brown. 

Hot  Crab. 

Pick  the  meat  out  of  a  crab,  clean  the  shell  from 
the  head,  then  put  the  meat  with  a  little  nutmeg, 
salt,  pepper  a  bit  of  butter,  crumbs  of  bread,  and 
three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  into  the  shell  again,  and 
set  it  before  fire.  You  may  brown  it  with  a  sala¬ 
mander. — Dry  toast  should  be  served  to  eat  it  upon. 

Dressed  Crab ,  cold. 

Empty  the  shell,  and  mix  the  flesh  with  oil,  vine¬ 
gar,  salt,  and  a  little  white  pepper  and  Cayenne  : 


22 


then  put  the  mixture  into  the  large  shell,  and  serve. 
Very  little  oil  is  necessary. 

To  feed  Oysters. 

Put  them  into  water,  and  wash  them  with  a  birch 
besom  till  quite  clean  ;  then  lay  them  bottom  down¬ 
wards  into  a  pan,  sprinkle  with  flour  or  oatmeal  and 
salt,  and  cover  with  water.  Do  the  same  every 
day,  and  they  will  fatten.  The  water  should  be 
pretty  salt. 

To  stew  Oysters. 

Open  and  separate  the  liquor  from  them,  then 
wash  them  from  the  grit  ;  strain  the  liquor,  and  put 
with  the  oysters  a  bit  of  mace  and  the  lemom  -  peel, 
and  a  few  white  peppers.  Simmer  them  very 
gently,  and  put  some  cream,  and  a  little  flour  and 
batter.  Serve  with  sippets. 

Boiled  Oysters 

Eat  well.  Let  the  shell  be  nicely  cleaned  first ; 
and  serve  in  them,  to  eat  with  cold  butter. 

To  scallop  Oysters. 

Put  them  with  crumbs  of  bread,  pepper,  salt, 
nutmeg  and  a  bit  of  butter,  into  scallop-shells  or 
saucers,  and  bake  before  the  fire  in  a  Dutch  oven. 

Fried  Oysters ,  to  garnish  boiled  fish. 

Make  a  batter  of  flour,  milk,  and  eggs,  season  it  a 
very  little,  dip  the  oysters  into  it,  and  try  them  a 
fine  yellow  brown.  A  little  nutmeg  should  be  put 
into  the  seasoning,  and  a  few  crumbs  of  bread  into 
the  flour. 

Oyster  Loaves. 

Open  them,  and  save  the  liquor  ;  wash  them  in 
it ;  then  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  put  a  little  of 
it  into  a  tosser,  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  flour,  white 
pepper,  a  scrape  of  nutmeg,  and  a  little  crearn. 


23  - 

Stew  them,  and  cut  in  dice  ;  put  into  rolls  sold  for 
the  purpose. 

MEATS. 

To  choose  Meats. 

Venison. — If  the  fat  be  clear,  bright,  and  thick, 
and  the  cleft  part  smooth  and  close,  it  is  young  ;  but 
if  the  cleft  is  wide  and  tough,  it  is  old. 

Beef. — if  the  flesh  of  ox-beef  is  young,  it  will 
have  a  fine  smooth  open  grain,  be  of  good  red,  and 
feel  tender.  The  fat  should  look  white  rather  than 
yellow  ;  for  when  that  is  of  a  deep  colour,  the  meat 
is  seldom  good  :  beef  fed  by  oil  cakes  is  in  general 
so,  and  the  flesh  is  flabby. 

Veal. — The  flesh  of  a  bull  calf  is  firmest,  but  not 
so  white.  The  fillet  of  the  cow-calf  is  generally 
preferred  for  the  udder.  The  whitest  is  the  most 
juicy,  having  been  made  so  by  frequent  bleeding 
and  having  had  whiting  to  lick. 

Mutton .■ — Choose  this  by  the  fineness  of  its  grain, 
good  colour,  and  firm  white  fat. 

Lamb. — Observe  the  neck  of  a  fore  quarter  ;  if 
the  vein  is  bluish,  it  is  fresh  ;  if  it  has  a  green  or 
yellow  cast,  it  is  stale. 

Pork  — Pinch  the  lean,  and  if  young  it  will  break. 
If  the  rind  is  tough,  thick,  and  cannot  easily  be  im¬ 
pressed  by  the  finger  it  is  old.  A  thin  rind  ig  a 
merit  in  all  pork.  When  fresh,  the  flesh  will  be 
smooth  and  cool  ;  if  clammy  it  is  tainted. 

Bacon. — If  the  rind  is  thin,  the  fat  firm,  and  of  a 
red  tinge,  the  lean  tender,  of  a  good  colour  and  ad¬ 
hering  to  the  bone,  you  may  conclude  it  good,  and 
not  old. 

Hams. — Stick  a  sharp  knife  under  the  bone  :  if 


24 


it  comes  out  with  a  pleasant  smell,  the  ham  is  good  ; 
but  if  the  knife  is  daubed  and  has  a  bad  scent,  do 
not  buy  it. 

Put  the  meat  into  cold  water,  and  flour  it  well 
first.  Meat  boiled  quick  will  be  hard  ;  but  care 
must  be  taken  that  in  boiling  slow  it  does  not  stop, 
or  the  meat  will  be  underdone. 

If  the  steam  is  kept  in,  the  water  will  not  lessen 
much  ;  therefore  when  you  wish  it  to  boil  away, 
take  off  the  cover  of  the  soup-pot. 

Vegetables  should  not  be  dressed  with  the  meat, 
except  carrots  or  parsnips  with  boiled  beef. 

Weigh  the  meat  ;  and  allow  for  all  solid  joints  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  for  every  pound,  and  some  min¬ 
utes  (from  ten  to  twenty)  over,  according  as  the 
family  like  it  done. 

A  ham  of  twenty  pounds  will  take  four  hours  and 
a  half,  and  others  in  proportion. 

A  tongue,  if  dry,  takes  four  hours  slow  boiling, 
after  soaking ;  a  tongue  out  of  pickle,  from  two 
hours  and  a  half  to  three  hours,  or  more  if  very 
large  ;  it  must  be  judged  by  feeling  whether  it  is 
very  tender. 

A  leg  of  pork,  or  lamb,  takes  the  allowance  of 
twenty  minutes,  above  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  a 
pound. 

In  roasting  beef  of  ten  pounds  will  take  above 
two  hours  and  a  half;  twenty  pounds  will  take 
three  hours  and  three  quarters 

A  neck  of  mutton  will  take  an  hour  and  a  half, 
if  kept  a  proper  distance.  A  chine  of  pork,  two 
hours. 

The  meat  should  be  put  at  a  good  distance  from 
the  fire,  and  brought  gradually  nearer  when  the 
inner  part  becomes  hot,  which  will  prevent  its  being 


25 


scorched  while  yet  raw.  Meat  should  be  much 
basted  ;  and  when  nearly  done,  floured  to  make  it 
look  frothed. 

Veal  and  mutton  should  have  a  little  paper  put 
over  the  fat  to  preserve  it.  If  not  fat  enough  to 
allow  for  basting,  a  little  good  dripping  answers  as 
well  as  butter. 

In  roasting  meat  it  is  a  very  good  way  to  put  a 
little  salt  and  water  into  the  dripping-pan,  and  baste 
for  a  little  while  with  this,  before  using  its  own  fat 
or  dripping.  When  dry,  dust  it  with  flour,  and 
baste  as  usual. 

Salting  meat  before  it  is  put  to  roast  draws  out 
the  gravy  ;  it  should  only  be  sprinkled  when  almost 
done. 

Time,  distance,  basting  often,  and  a  clear  fire  of 
a  proper  size  for  what  is  required,  are  the  first 
articles  of  a  good  cook’s  attention  in  roasting. 

To  dress  Venison . 

A  haunch  of  buck  will  take  three  hours  and  a 
half,  or  three  quarters,  roasting :  doe,  only  *hree 
hours  and  a  quarter.  Venison  should  be  rather 
under  than  over  done. 

Spread  a  sheet  of  white  paper  with  butter,  and 
put  it  over  the  fat,  first  sprinkle  it  with  a  little  salt ; 
then  lay  a  coarse  paste  on  strong  paper,  and  cover 
the  haunch  ;  tie  it  with  fine  packthread,  and  set  it 
at  a  distance  from  the  fire,  which  must  be  a  good 
one.  Baste  it  often  :  ten  minutes  before  serving 
take  off  the  paste,  draw  the  meat  nearer  the  fire, 
and  baste  it  with  butter  and  a  good  deal  of  flour,  to 
make  it  froth  up  well. 

Gravy  for  it  should  be  put  into  a  boat,  and  not 
into  the  dish  (unless  there  is  none  in  the  venison,) 
and  made  thus  :  Cut  off  the  fat  from  two  or  three 

3 


26 

pounds  of  loin  of  old  mutton,  and  set  in  steaks  on  a 
gridiron  for  a  few  minutes  just  to  brown  one  side  ; 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  water, 
cover  quite  close  for  an  hour,  and  simmer  it  gently  ; 
then  uncover  it,  and  stew  till  the  gravy  is  reduced  to 
a  pint.  Season  with  salt  only.  Currant-jelly  sauce 
must  be  served  in  a  boat. 

Formerly  pap-sauce  was  eaten  with  venison: 
w'hich  as  some  still  like  it,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
direct.  Grate  white  bread,  and  boil  it  with  port 
wine,  water  and  a  large  stick  of  cinnamon,  when 
quite  smooth  take  out  the  cinnamon,  and  add 
sugar.  Claret  may  be  used  for  it. 

Ma!<e  the  jelly-sauce  thus.  Beat  some  currant- 
jelly  and  a  spoonful  or  two  of  port  wine,  and  set  it 
over  the  fire  till  melted.  Where  jelly  runs  short 
put  more  wine  and  a  few  lumps  of  sugar,  to  the  jelly, 
and  melt  as  above.  Serve  with  French  beans. 

Haunch ,  Neck,  and  Shoidder  of  Venison. 

Roast  with  paste  as  above,  and  the  same  sauce. 

To  stezii  a  Shoulder  of  Mutton. 

Let  the  meat  hang  till  you  judge  proper  to  dress 
it,  then  take  out  the  bone,  beat  the  meat  with  a  rol¬ 
ling-pin,  lay  some  slices  of  mutton  fat,  that  have 
lain  a  few  hours  in  a  little  port  wine,  among  it,  sprin¬ 
kle  a  little  pepper  and  alspice  over  it  in  fine  pow¬ 
der,  roll  it  up  tight,  and  tie  it.  Set  in  a  stew-pan 
that  will  only  just  hold  it,  with  some  mutton  or  beef 
gravy  not  strong,  half  a  pint  of  port  wine,  and  some 
pepper  and  alspice.  Simmer  it  close  covered,  and 
as  slow  as  you  can,  for  three  or  four  hours.  When 
quite  tender,  take  off  the  tape,  set  the  meat  on  a 
dish,  and  strain  the  gravy  over  it.  Serve  with  cur¬ 
rant-jelly  sauce. 


27 


This  is  the  best  way  to  dress  this  joint,  umess  it 
is  very  fat,  and  then  it  should  be  roasted.  The 
bone  should  be  stewed  with  it. 

Breast  of  Venison  . 

Do  it  as  the  shoulder,  or  make  it  into  a  small 
pastry. 

Hashjd  Venison 

Should  be  warmed  with  its  own  gravy,  or  some 
without  seasoning,  as  before  ;  and  only  warmed 
through,  not  boiled.  If  there  is  no  fat  left,  cut 
some  slices  of  mutton  fat,  set  it  on  the  tire  with  a 
little  port  wine  and  sugar,  simmer  till  dry  ;  then 
put  to  the  hash,  and  it  will  eat  as  well  as  the  fat  of 
the  venison. 

For  Venison  Pastry,  look  under  the  head  Pastry  ; 
as  likewise  an  excellent  imitation. 

Beef  a-la-mode. 

Choose  a  piece  of  thick  flank  of  a  fine  heifer  or 
ox — cut  into  long  slices  some  fat  bacon,  but  quite 
free  from  yellow  ;  let  each  bit  be  near  an  inch  thick  ; 
dip  them  into  vinegar,  and  then  into  a  seasoning 
ready  prepared,  of  salt,  black  pepper,  aispice,  and 
a  clove,  all  in  a  fine  powder,  with  parsley,  chives, 
thyme,  savoury,  and  knotted  marjorum,  shred  as 
small  as  possible,  and  well  mixed.  With  a  sharp 
knife  make  holes  deep  enough  to  let  in  the  larding, 
then  rub  the  beef  over  with  the  seasoning,  and  bind 
it  up  tight  with  tape.  Set  it  in  a  well  tinned  pot 
over  a  fire  or  rather  stove  ;  three  or  four  onions 
must  be  fried  brown  and  put  to  the  beef,  with  two 
or  three  carrots,  one  turnip,  a  head  or  two  of  celery, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  water,  let  it  simmer  gently 
ten  or  twelve  hours,  or  till  extremely  tender,  turn¬ 
ing  the  meat  twice. 


28 


Put  the  gravy  into  a  pan,  remove  the  tat,  keep 
the  beef  covered,  then  put  them  together,  and  add 
a  glass  of  port  wine.  Take  off  the  tape,  and  serve 
with  the  vegetable  :  or  you  may  strain  them  off,  and 
send  them  up  cut  into  dice  for  garnish.  Onions 
roasted,  and  then  stewed  with  the  gravy,  are  a  great 
improvement.  A  tea-cupful  of  vinegar  should  be 
stewed  with  the  beef. 

J)  fricandeau  of  Beef. 

Take  a  nice  bit  of  lean  bgef ;  lard  it  with  bacon 
seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  cloves,  mace,  and  alspice. 
Put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  a  pint  of  broth,  a  glass 
of  white  wine,  a  bundle  of  parsley,  all  sorts  of  sweet 
herbs,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  shallot  or  two,  four 
cloves,  pepper  and  salt.  When  the  meat  is  become 
tender,  cover  it  close,  skim  the  sauce  well,  and 
strain  it ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  till  it  is 
reduced  to  a  glaze.  Glaze  the  larded  side  with  this, 
and  serve  the  meat  on  sorrel-sauce. 

To  stew  a  rump  of  Beef. 

Wash  it  well,  and  season  it  high  with  pepper, 
Cayenne,  salt,  alspice,  three  cloves,  and  a  blade  ol 
mace,  all  in  fine  powder.  Bind  it  up  tight,  and  lay 
it  into  a  pot  that  will  just  hold  it.  Fry  three  large 
onions  sliced,  and  put  them  to  it,  with  three  carrots, 
two  turnips,  a  shallot,  four  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace, 
and  some  celery.  Cover  the  meat  with  good  beef- 
broth,  or  weak  gravy.  Simmer  it  as  gently  as  pos¬ 
sible  for  several  hours,  till  quite  tender.  Clear  off 
the  fat ;  and  add  to  the  gravy  half  a  pint  of  port 
wine,  a  glass  of  vinegar,  and  a  large  spoon  of  catsup. 
Simmer  half  an  hour,  and  serve  in  a  deep  dish. — 
Half  a  pint  of  table-beer  may  be  added.  The  herb3 
to  be  used  should  be  burnet,  tarragon,  parsley. 


29> 


thyme,  basil,  savoury,  marjorum,  pennyroyal, 
knotted  marjorum,  and  some  chives,  if  you  can  get 
them,  but  observe  to  proportion  the  quan  ities  to 
the  pungency  of  the  several  sorts — let  there  be  a 
good  handful  altogether. 

Garnish  with  carrots,  turnips,  or  truffles  and 
morels,  or  pickles  of  different  colours,  cut  -small, 
and  laid  in  little  heaps  separate  :  chopped  parsley, 
chives,  beet-root,  &,c.  if,  when  done,  the  gravy  is 
too  much  to  fill  the  dish,  take  only  a  part  to  season 
for  serving,  but  tne  less  water  the  better  :  and  to 
increase  the  richness,  add  a  few  beef  bones  and 
shanks  of  mutton  in  stewing.  A  spoonful  or  two  of 
made  mustard  is  a  great  improvement  to  the  gravy. 

To  stew  a  Brisket  of  Beef 

Put  the  part  that  has  the  hard  fat  into  a  stew-pot 
with  a  small  quantity  of  .vater  ;  let  it  boil  up,  and 
skim  it  thoroughly ;  then  add  carrots,  turnips, 
onions,  celery,  and  a  few  pepper-corns.  Stew  it 
extremely  tender  ;  then  take  out  the  flat  bones,  and 
remove  all  the  fat  from  the  soup.  Either  serve 
that  and  the  meat  in  a  tureen,  or  the  soup  alone,  and 
the  meat  on  a  dish,  garnished  with  some  vegetables. 
The  following  sauce  is  much  admired  served  with 
the  beef: — Take  half  a  pint  of  the  soup,  and  mix 
it  with  a  spoonful  of  catsup,  a  glass  of  port  w  ine, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard,  a  little  flour,  a  hit 
of  butter  and  salt;  boil  altogether  a  few  minutes, 
then  pour  it  round  the  meat.  Chop  capers,  wal¬ 
nuts,  red  cabbage,  pickled  cucumbers,  and  chives 
or  parsley,  small,  but  in  several  heaps  over  it. 

To  press  Beef. 

Salt  a  bit  of  brisket,  thin  part  of  the  flank,  or  the 
lops  of  the  ribs,  with  salt  and  saltpetre  five  days, 

3* 


30 


then  boil  it  gently  till  extremely  tender  ;  put  it  un¬ 
der  a  great  weight,  or  in  a  cheese-press,  till  perfect¬ 
ly  cold.  It  eats  excellently  cold,  and  for  sand¬ 
wiches. 

To  make  hunter's  Beef. 

To  a  round  of  beef  that  weighs  twenty-five 
pounds,  take  three  ounces  of  saltpetre,  three 
ounces,  of  the  coarsest  sugar,  an  ounce  of  cloves,  a 
nutmeg,  half  an  ounce  of  alspice,  add  three  hand¬ 
fuls  of  common  salt,  all  in  the  finest  powder. 

The  beef  should  hang  two  or  three  days;  then 
rub  the  above  well  into  it,  and  turn  and  rub  it  every 
day  for  two  or  three  weeks.  The  bone  must  be 
taken  out  at  first.  When  to  be  dressed,  dip  it  into 
cold  water,  to  take  oif  the  loose  spice,  bind  it  up 
tight  with  tape,  and  put  it  into  a  pan  with  a  tea-cup¬ 
ful  of  water  at  the  bottom,  cover  the  top  of  the 
meat  with  shred  suet,  and  the  pan  with  a  brown 
crust  and  paper,  and  bake  it  five  or  six  hours. — 
When  cold  take  off  the  paste  and  tape. 

The  gravy  is  very  fine  ;  and  a  little  of  it  adds 
greatly  to  the  flavour  of  any  hash,  soup,  &c. — Both 
the  gravy  and  the  beef  will  keep  some  time. 

An  excellent  mode  of  dressing  Beef. 

Hang  three  ribs  three  or  four  days  ;  take  out  the 
bones  from  the  whole  length,  sprinkle  it  with  salt, 
roll  the  meat  tight,  and  roast  it.  Nothing  can  look 
nicer.  The  above  done  with  spices,  &,c.  and  baked 
as  hunters’  beef,  is  excellent. 

To  collar  Beef. 

Choose  the  thin  end  of  the  flank  of  fine  mellow 
beef,  but  not  too  fat ;  lay  it  into  a  dish  with  salt  and 
saltpetre,  turn  and  rub  it  every  day  for  a  week,  and 
keep  it  cool.  Then  take  out  every  bone  and  gristle. 


31 


remove  the  skin  of  the  inside  part,  and  cover  it 
thick  with  the  following  seasoning  cut  small : — a 
large  handful  of  parsley,  the  same  of  sage,  some 
thyme,  marjorun,  and  pennyroyal,  pepper,  salt, 
and  alspice.  Roll  the  meat  up  as  tight  as  possible, 
and  bind  it,  then  boil  it  gently  for  seven  or  eight 
hours.  A  cloth  must  be  put  round  before  the  tape. 
Put  the  beef  under  a  good  weight  while  hot,  without 
undoing  it:  the  shape  will  then  be  oval.  Part  of  a 
breast  of  veal  rolled  in  with  the  beef,  looks  and  eats 
very  well. 

Beef  steaks 

Should  be  cut  from  a  rump  that  has  hung  a  few 
days.  Broil  them  over  a  very  clear  or  charcoal  fire  : 
put  into  the  dish  a  little  minced  shallot,  and  a  table¬ 
spoonful  of  catsup:  and  rub  a  bit  of  butter  on  the 
steak  the  moment  of  serving.  It  should  be  turned 
often,  that  the  gravy  may  not  be  drawn  out  on 
either  side. 

This  dish  requires  to  be  eaten  so  hot  and  fresh 
done,  that  it  is  not  in  perfection  if  served  with  any 
thing  else.  Pepper  and  salt  should  be  added  when 
taking  it  off  the  fire. 

Beef  steaks  and  Oyster  sauce. 

Strain  oft'  the  liquor  from  the  oysters,  and  throw 
them  into  cold  water,  to  take  off  the  grit,  while  you 
simmer  the  liquor  with  a  bit  of  mace  and  lemon- 
peel  ;  then  put  the  oysters  in,  stew  them  a  few 
minutes,  and  a  little  cream,  if  you  have  it,  and  some 
butter  rubbed  in  a  bit  of  flower  ;  let  them  boil  up 
once,  and  have  rump-steaks  well  seasoned  and 
broiled,  ready  for  throwing  the  oyster-sauce  over, 
the  moment  you  are  to  serve. 

Stewed  Beefsteaks. 

Beat  them  with  a  little  rolling  pin,  flour  and 


/ 


3.2' 

season,  then  fry  with  sliced  onion  of  a  fine  light 
brown,  lav  the  steaks  into  a  fi-tew-pan,  and  pour  as 
much  boiling  water  over  them  as  will  serve  for 
sauce  :  stew  them  very  gently  half  an  hour,  and  add 
a  spoonful  of  catsup,  or  walnut  liquor,  before  you 
serve. 

Italian  Beef-steaks. 

Cut  a  fine  large  steak  from  a  rump  that  has  been 
well  hung,  or  it  w  ill  do  from  any  tender  part :  beat 
it,  and  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  an  onion  :  lay 
it  into  an  iron  stew  pan  that  has  a  cover  to  fit  quite 
close.,  and  set  it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  without  wa¬ 
ter.  Take  care  it  does  not  burn,  but  it  must  have 
a  strong  heat :  in  two  or  three  hours  it  will  be  quite 
lender,  and  then  serve  with  its  own  gravy. 

Beef  Collops... 

Cut  thin  slices  of  beef  from  the  rump,  or  any 
Qther  tender  part,  and  divide  them  into  pieces  three 
inches  long;  beat  them  with  a  blade  of  a  knife,  and 
flour  them.  Fry  the  collops  quick  in  butter  two 
minutes,  then  lay  them  into  a  small  stew-pan,  and 
cover  them  with  a  pint  of  gravy  ;  add  a  bit  of  butter 
rubbed  in  flour,  pepper,  salt,  the  least  bit  of  shallot, 
•shred  as  fine  as  possible,  half  a  walnut,  four  small 
pickled  cucumbers,  a  tea-spoonful  of  capers  cut 
small.  Take  care  that  it  does  not  boil,  and  serve 
She  stew  in  a  very  hot  covered  dish. 

Beef  Palates. 

Simmer  them  in  water  several  hours,  till  they  will 
peel;  then  cut  the  palates  into  slices,  or  leave  them 
whole,  as  you  choose  ;  and  stew  them  in  a  rich  gra¬ 
vy  till  as  tender  as  possible.  Before  you  serve, 
season  them  with  Cayenne,  salt,  and  catsup.  If  the 


33 

gravy  was  drawn  clear,  add  also  some  butter  and 

flour. 

If  to  be  served  white,  boil  them  in  milk,  and  stew 
them  in  fricassee-sauce,  adding  cream,  butter,  flour 
and  mushroom-powder,  and  a  little  pounded  mace. 

Beef  cakes  for  a  side  dish  of  dressed  meat. 

Pound  some  beef  that  is  underdone  with  a  little 
fat  bacon,  or  ham  ;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
little  shallot,  or  garlic;  mix  them  well,  and  make  it 
into  small  cakes,  three  inches  long,  and  half  as  wide 
and  thick  ;  fry  them  in  a  light  brown,  and  serve 
them  in  a  good  thick  gravy. 

To  pot  Beef. 

Take  two  pounds  of  lean  beef,  rub  it  with  salt¬ 
petre,  and  let  it  lie  one  night;  then  salt  with  com¬ 
mon  salt,  and  cover  it  with  water  four  days  in  a 
small  pan.  Dry  it  with  a  cloth,  and  season  with 
black-pepper  ;  lay  it  into  as  small  a  pan  as  will  hold 
it,  cover  it  with  coarse  paste,  and  bake  it  five  hours 
in  a  very  cool  oven.  Put  no  liquor  in. 

When  cold,  pick  out  the  strings,  and  fat :  beat 
the  meat  very  fine  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fine 
butter,  just  warm;  but  not  oiled,  and  as  much  of  the 
gravy  as  will  make  it  into  a  paste  ;  put  it  into  very 
small  pots,  and  cover  them  with  melted  butter. 

To  dress  the  inside  of  a  cold  Sirloin  of  Beef. 

Cut  out  all  the  meat,  and  a  little  fat,  into  pieces  as 
thick  as  your  finger,  and  two  inches  long  :  dredge 
it  with  flour  ;  and  fry  in  butter,  of  a  nice  brown, 
drain  the  butter  from  the  meat  and  toss  it  up  in  a 
rich  gravy,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  anchovy,  and 
shallot.  Do  not  let  it  boil  on  any  account.  Before 
you  serve  add  two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Garnish 
w'*h  crimped  parslev. 


Fricassee  of  cold  roast  Beef. 

Cut  the  beet’  into  very  thin  slices,  shred  a  hand¬ 
ful  of  parsley  very  small,  cut  an  onion  into  quarters, 
and  put  all  together  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  piece  of 
butter  and  some  strong  broth  ;  season  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  simmer  very  gently  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  ;  then  mix  into  it  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a 
glass  of  port  wine,  and  a  spoonful  of  vinegar  ;  stir 
it  quick,  rub  the  dish  with  shallot,  and  turn  the  fri¬ 
cassee  into  it. 

To  dress  cold  BeeJ  that  has  not  been  done  enough,  call¬ 
ed  Beef -Olives. 

Cut  sclices  half  an  inch  thick,  and  four  inches 
square  ;  lay  them  on  forcemeat  of  crumbs  of  bread, 
shallot,  a  little  suet,  or  fat,  pepper  and  salt.  Roll 
them  and,  fasten  with  a  small  skewer  ;  put  them 
into  a  stew-pan  with  some  gravy  made  ofbeef  bones, 
or  the  gravy  of  the  meat,  and  a  spoonful  of  water, 
and  stew  them  till  tender.  Fresh  meat  will  do. 

To  mince  Beef. 

Shred  the  underdone  part  fine,  with  some  of  the 
fat,  put  into  a  small  stew-pan,  with  some  onion  or  shal¬ 
lot,  (a  very  little  will  do,)  a  little  water,  pepper,  and 
salt  ;  boil  it  till  the  onion  is  quite  soft  ;  then  put 
some  of  the  gravy  of  the  meat  to  it,  and  the  mince. 
Do  not  let  it  boil.  Have  a  small  hot  dish  with  sip¬ 
pets  of  bread  ready,  and  pour  the  mince  into  it,  but 
first  mix  a  large  spoonful  of  vinegar  with  it ;  if  shal¬ 
lot-vinegar  is  used,  there  will  be  no  need  of  the 
onion  nor  the  raw  shallot.- 

To  hash  Beef. 

Do  it  the  same  as  in  the  last  receipt ;  only  the  meat 
is  to  be  slices,  and  you  may  add  a  spoonful  of 
walnut  liquor  or  catsup. 


35 


Observe,  that  it  is  owing  to  toiling  hash  or  minces, 
that  they  get  hard.  AM  sorts  ot'  stews,  or  meats 
dressed  a  second  time,  should  be  only  simmered  ; 
and  this  last  only  hot  through. 

Beef  a-la  vingrette. 

Cut  a  slice  of  underdone  boiled  beef  three  inches 
thick,  and  a  little  fat  ;  stew  it  in  half  a  pint  of  water, 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  an 
onion,  and  a  bay  leaf ;  season  it  with  three  cloves 
pounded,  and  pepper,  till  the  liquor  is  nearly  wrasted 
away,  turning  it  once.  When  cold,  serve  it.  Strain 
off  the  gravy,  and  mix  it  with  a  little  vinegar  fo(r 
sauce. 

Round  of  Beef. 

Should  be  carefully  salted,  and  wet  with  the 
pickle  for  eight  or  ten  days.  The  bone  should  be 
cui  out  first,  and  the  beef  skewer  ed  and  tied  up,  to 
make  it  quite  round.  It  may  be  stuffed  with  parsley 
if  approved ;  in  which  case  the  holes  to  admit  the 
parsley  must  be  made  with  a  sharp  pointed  knife, 
and  the  parsley  coarsely  cut,  and  stuffed  in  tight. — 
As  soon  as  it  boils  it  should  be  skimmed,  and  after¬ 
wards  kept  boiling  very  gently. 

Rolled  Beef  that  equals  Hare. 

Take  the  inside  of  a  large  sirloin,  soak  it  in  a 
glass  of  port  wine  and  a  glass  of  vinegar  mixed,  for 
forty-eight  hours  ;  have  ready  a  very  fine  stuffing, 
and  bind  it  up  tight.  Roast  it  on  a  hanging  spit,  and 
baste  it  with  a  glass  of  port  wine,  the  same  quantity 
of  vinegar,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  pounded  alspice. — 
Larding  improves  the  look  and  flavour  :  serve  with 
rich  gravy  in  the  dish  ;  currant-jelly  and  melted 
butter  in  tureens. 


36 


To  roast  Tongue  and  Udder. 

After  cleaning  the  tongue  well,  salt  it  with  com¬ 
mon  salt  and  saltpetre  three  days  ;  then  boil  it,  and 
likewise  a  fine  young  udder  with  some  fat  to  it,  till 
tolerably  tender  ;  then  tie  the  thick  part  of  one  to 
the  thin  part  of  the  other,  and  roast  the  tongue  and 
udder. 

Serve  them  with  good  gravy,  and  currant-jelly 
sauce.  A  few  cloves  should  be  stuck  in  the  udder. 

To  stew  Tongue. 

Salt  a  tongue  with  saltpetre  and  common  salt  for 
a  week,  turning,  it  every  day.  Boil  it  tender  enough 
to  peel  ;  when  done  stew  it  in  a  moderately  strong 
gravy  ;  season  with  soy,  mushroom  catsup,  Cay¬ 
enne,  pounded  cloves,  and  salt  if  necessary. 

Serve  w  ith  truffles,  morels,  and  mushrooms.  In 
both  this  receipt  and  the  next,  the  roots  must  be 
taken  off  the  tongues  before  salting,  but  some  fat 
left. 

An  excellent  way  of  doing  Tongues  to  eat  cold. 

Season  with  common  salt  and  saltpetre,  brown 
^iigar,  a  little  bay-salt,  pepper,  cloves,  mace  and 
alspice,  in  fine  powder  for  a  fortnight ;  then  take 
away  the  pickle,  put  the  tongue  into  a  small  pan, 
and  lay  some  butter  on  it ;  cover  it  with  brown 
crust,  and  bake  slowly  till  so  tender  that  a  straw 
would  go  through  it. 

The  thin  part  of  tongues,  when  hung  up  to  dry, 
grates  like  hung  beef,  and  also  makes  a  fine  addition 
to  the  flavour  of  omlets. 

Beef-heart. 

Wash  it  carefully  ;  stuff  as  a  hare  ;  and  serve 
with  rich  gravy,  and  currant-jelly  sauce.  Hash 
with  the  same,  and  port  wine. 


Stewed  Ox-cheek,  plain. 

Soak  and  cleanse  a  fine  cheek  the  day  before  it  is 
to  be  eaten  ;  put  it  into  a  stew-pot  that  will  cover 
close,  with  three  quarts  of  water  ;  simmer  it  after 
it  has  first  boiled  up  and  been  well  skimmed.  In 
two  hours  put  plenty  of  carrots,  leeks,  two  or  three 
fnrnips,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  some  whole  pep¬ 
per,  and  four  ounces  of  alspice.  Skim  it  often  ; 
when  the  meat  is  tender  take  it  out ;  let  the  soup 
get  cold,  take  off  the  cake  of  fat,  and  serve  the  soup 
separate  or  with  meat. 

It  should  be  a  fine  brown  ;  which  might  be  done 
by  burnt  sugar  ;  or  by  frying  some  onions  quite 
brown  with  flour,  and  simmering  them  with  it.  This 
last  way  improves  the  flavour  of  all  soups  and  gra¬ 
vies  of  the  brown  kind. 

If  vegetables  are  not  approved  of  in  the  soup, 
they  may  be  taken  out,  and  a  small  roll  toasted,  or 
bread  fried  and  added.  Celery  is  a  great  addition, 
and  should  always  be  served.  Where  it  is  not  to  be 
got,  the  seed  of  it  gives  quite  as  good  a  flavour, 
boiled  in,  and  strained  oft. 

To  dress  Ox-cheek  another  way. 

Soak  half  a  head  three  hours,  and  clean  it  with 
plenty  of  water.  Take  the  meat  off  the  bones;  and 
put  it  into  a  pan  with  a  large  onion,  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  some  bruised  alspice,  pepper  and  salt. 

Lay  the  bones  on  the  top  :  pour  on  two  or  three 
quarts  of  water,  and  cover  the  pan  close  with  brown 
paper,  or  a  dish  that  will  fit  close.  Let  it  stand 
eight  or  ten  hours  in  a  slow  oven  ;  or  simmer  it  by 
the  side  of  the  fire,  or  on  a  hot  hearth.  When 
done  tender,  put  the  meat  into  a  clean  pan,  and  let 
it  get  cold.  Take  the  cake  of  fat  off,  and  warm  the 

4 


3S 


head  in  pieces  in  the  soup.  Put  what  vegetables 
you  choose. 

Marrowbones. 

Cover  the  top  with  d  >ured  cloth  ;  boil  them,  and 
serve  with  dry  toast. 

Tripe 

May  be  served  in  a  tureen,  stewed  with  milk  and 
onion  till  tender.  Melted  butter  for  sauce. 

Or  try  it  in  small  bits  dipped  in  batter. 

Or  stew  the  thin  part,  cut  into  bits,  in  gravy  ; 
thicken  with  flour  and  butter,  and  add  a  little  cat¬ 
sup. 

Or  fricassee  it  with  white  sauce. 

Soused  Tripe. 

Boil  the  tripe,  hut  not  quite  tender  ;  then  put  it 
into  salt  and  water,  which  must  be  changed  every 
day  till  it  is  all  used.  When  you  dress  the  tripe, 
dip  it  into  batter  of  flour  and  eggs,  and  fry  it  of  a 
good  brown. 

Ox-feet  or  Cow-heels, 

May  be  dressed  in  various  ways,  and  are  very  nu¬ 
tritious  in  all. 

Coil  them,  and  serve  them  in  a  napkin  ;  with 
melted  butter,  mustard,  and  a  large  spoonful  of  vine¬ 
gar. 

Or  boil  them  very  tender,  and  serve  them  as  a 
brown  fricassee:  the  liquor  will  do  to  make  jelly 
sweet  or  relishing,  and  likewise  to  give  richness  to 
soups  or  gravy. 

Or  cut  them  into  four  parts,  dip  them  into  an  egg  ; 
and  then  (lour  and  fry  them  ;  and  fry  onions,  (if  you 
like  them)  to  serve  rounl.  Sauce  as  above 

Or  bake  them  as  for  n  ock-turtle. 


30 


VEAL. 

To  keep  Veal. 

The  first  part  that  turns  bad  of  a  leg  of  veal,  Is 
where  the  udder  is  skewered  back.  The  skewer 
should  be  taken  out,  and  both  that  and  the  meat  un¬ 
der  it  wiped  every  day,  by  which  means  it  will  keep 
good  three  or  four  days  in  hot  weather. 

Leg  of  Veal. 

Let  the  fillet  be  cut  large  or  small,  as  best  suits 
the  number  of  your  comp  my.  Take  out  the  bone, 
fill  the  space  with  fine  stuffing,  and  let  it  be  skew¬ 
ered  quite  round  ;  and  send  the  large  side  upper¬ 
most.  When  half  roasted,  if  not  before,  put  a  pa¬ 
per  over  the  fat ;  and  take  care  to  allow  a  sufficient 
time,  and  put  it  a  good  distance  from  the  fire,  as  the 
meat  is  very  solid  ;  serve  with  melted  butter  pour¬ 
ed  over  it. — You  may  pot  some  of  it. 

Knuckle  of  Veal. 

As  few  people  are  fond  of  boiled  veal,  it  may  be 
well  to  leave  the  knuckle  small,  and  take  off  some 
utlets  or  collops  before  it  be  dressed  ;  and  as  the 
knuckle  will  keep  longer  than  the  fillet,  it  is  best 
not  to  cut  off  the  slices  till  wanted.  Break  the 
bone  to  make  it  take  less  room  ;  wash  it  vvell  ;  and 
put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  three  onions,  a  blade  or 
two  of  mace,  and  a  few  pepper  corns  ;  cover  it 
with  water,  and  simmer  it  liil  quite  ready.  In  the 
mean  time  some  macaroni  should  be  boiled  with  it  if 
approved,  or  rice,  or  a  little  rice  flour,  to  give  it  a 
small  degree  of  thickness  :  hut  do  not  put  too  much. 
Before  it  is  served,  add  half  a  pint  of  milk  and 
cream,  and  let  it  come  up  either  with  or  without  the 
meat. 

Or  fry  the  knuckle  with  sliced  onions  and  butter 


40 


to  a  good  brown ;  and  have  ready  peas,  lettuce, 
on'nn,  and  a  cucumber  or  two,  stewed  in  small 
quantity  of  water,  an  hour ;  then  add  these  to  the 
veal ;  and  stew  it  till  the  meat  is  tender  enough  to 
eat,  but  not  overdone.  Throw  in  pepper,  salt,  and 
a  bit  of  shred  mint,  and  serve  altogether. 

Shoulder  of  Veal. 

Cut  off  the  knuckle,  for  a  stew  or  gravy.  Roast 
the  other  part  for  stuffing  ;  you  may  lard  it.  Serve 
with  melted  butter. 

The  blade-bone,  with  a  good  deal  of  meat  left  on, 
eats  extremely  well  with  mushroom  or  oyster-sauce, 
or  mushroom-catsup  in  butter. 

Neck  of  Veal. 

Cut  off  the  scrag  to  boil,  and  cover  it  with  onion- 
sauce.  It  should  be  boiled  in  milk  and  water. 
Parsley  and  butter  may  be  served  with  it,  instead  of 
onion-sauce. 

Or  it  may  be  stewed  with  whole  rice,  small  onions, 
and  pepper-corns,  with  a  very  little  water. 

Or  boiled  and  eaten  with  bacon  and  greens. 

The  best  end  may  be  either  roasted,  broiled  as 
steaks,  or  made  into  pies. 

Neck  of  Veal  a-la-braise. 

Lard  the  best  end  with  bacon  rolled  in  parsley 
chopped  tine,  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg  :  put  it  in¬ 
to  a  tosser,  and  cover  it  with  water.  Put  to  it  the 
scrag-end,  a  little  lean  bacon  or  ham,  an  onion,  two 
carrots,  two  heads  of  celery,  and  about  a  glass  of 
Madeira  wine.  Stew  it  quick  two  hours,  or  till  it  is 
tender,  but  not  too  much.  Strain  off  the  liquor: 
mix  a  little  dour  and  butter  in  a  stew-pan  till  brown, 
and  lay  the  veal  in  this,  the  upper  side  to  the  bottom 
of  the  pan.  Let  it  be  over  the  fire  till  it 


41 


coloured  ;  then  lay  it  into  the  dish,  stir  some  of  the 
liquor  in  and  boil  it  up,  skim  it  nicely,  and  squeeze 
orange  or  lemon-juice  into  it. 

Breast  of  Veal. 

Before  roasted,  if  large,  the  two  ends  may  be  ta¬ 
ken  off  and  fried  to  stew,  or  the  whole  may  be  roast¬ 
ed. — Butter  should  be  poured  over  it. 

If  any  be  left,  cut  the  pieces  into  handsome  sizes, 
put  them  into  a  stew-pan,  and  pour  some  broth  over 
it ;  or  if  you  have  no  broth,  a  little  water  will  do  ; 
add  a  bunch  of  herbs,  a  blade  or  two  of  mace,  some 
pepper  and  an  anchovy  ;  stew  till  the  meat  is  ten¬ 
der,  thicken  with  butter  and  flour,  add  a  little  catsup  ; 
or  the  whole  breast  may  be  stewed,  after  cutting  off 
the  two  ends. 

Serve  the  sweetbread  whole  upon  it,  which  may 
either  be  stewed,  or  parboiled,  and  then  covered 
with  crumbs,  herbs,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  browned 
in  a  Dutch  oven. 

To  roll  a  Breast  of  Veal. 

Bone  it,  take  off  the  thick  skin  and  gristle,  and 
beat  the  meat  with  a  rolling-pin.  Season  it  with 
herbs  chopped  very  fine,  mixed  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  mace.  Lay  some  thick  slices  of  fine  ham  ;  or 
roll  it  into  two  or  three  calves’  tongues  of  a  fine  red, 
boiled  first  an  hour  or  two,  and  skinned.  Bind  it 
up  tight  in  a  cloth,  and  tape  it.  Set  it  over  the  fire 
to  simmer,  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  till  it  is 
quite  tender  ;  this  will  take  some  hours.  Lay  it  on 
the  dresser,  with  a  board  and  weight  on  it  till  quite 
cold. 

Figs’  or  calves’  feet  boiled  and  taken  from  the 
bones,  may  be  put  in  or  round  it.  The  different 
colours  laid  in  lavers  look  well  when  cut ;  and  vou 

4* 


42 


may  put  in  yolks  of  eggs  boiled,  beet-root,  grated 
ham,  and  chopped  parsley  in  different  parts. 

Chump  of  Veal  a-la-daube. 

Cut  oft'  the  chump  end  of  the  loin  ;  take  out  the 
edgebone  :  stuff  the  hollow  with  good  forcemeat,  tie 
it  up  tight,  and  lay  in  a  stew-pan  with  the  bone  you 
take  out,  a  little  faggot  of  herbs,  an  anchovy,  two 
blades  of  mace,  a  few  white  peppers,  and  a  pint  of 
good  veal-broth. — Cover  the  veal  with  slices  of  fat 
bacon,  and  lay  a  sheet  of  white  paper  over  it.  Co¬ 
ver  the  pan  close,  simmer  it  for  two  hours,  then 
take  out  the  bacon,  and  glaze  the  veal. — Serve  it  on 
mushrooms,  or  with  sorrel-sauce,  or  what  else  you 
please. 

Veal-rolls  of  either  cold  Meat  or  fresh. 

Cut  thin  slices  ;  and  spread  on  them  a  fine  season¬ 
ing  of  a  very  few  crumbs,  a  little  chopped  bacon  or 
scraped  ham,  and  a  little  suet,  parsley,  and  shallot 
(or  instead  of  the  parsley  and  shallot,  some  fresh 
mushrooms  stewed  and  minced,)  pepper,  salt,  and  a 
small  piece  of  pounded  mace. 

This  stuffing  may  either  fill  up  the  roll  like  a  sau¬ 
sage,  or  be  rolled  with  the  meat.  In  either  case  tie 
it  up  very  tight,  and  stew  very  slowly  in  a  gravy 
and  a  glass  of  sherry. — Serve  it  when  tender,  after 
skimming  it  nicely. 

A  Dunelrn  of  cold  Veal  or  Fowl. 

Stew  a  few  small  mushrooms  in  their  own  liquor 
and  a  bit  of  butter,  a  quarter  of  an  hour ;  mince 
them  very  small,  and  add  them  (with  their  liquor) 
to  minced  veal,  with  also  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
eome  cream,  and  a  bit  of  butter  rubbed  in  less  than 
half  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour.  Simmer  three  or  four 
oinutee,  and  serve  on  thin  sippets  of  bread. 


43 


Minced  Veal 

Cat  cold  veal  as  fine  as  possible,  but  do  not  chop 
it.  Put  to  it  a  very  little  lemon-peel  shred,  two 
grates  of  nutmeg,  some  salt,  and  four  or  five  spoon¬ 
fuls  of  either  a  little  weak  broth,  milk,  or  water- 
simmer  these  gently  with  the  meat,  but  take  care 
’aot  to  let  it  boil  ;  and  add  a  bit  of  butter  rubbed 
;n  flour.  Put  sippets  of  thin  toasted  bread,  cut  into 
a  three-cornered  shape,  round  the  dish. 

To  pot  Veal. 

Cold  fillet  makes  the  finest  potted  veal  ;  or  you 
may  do  it  as  follows': 

Season  a  large  slice  of  the  fillet  before  it  is  dress¬ 
ed,  with  some  mace,  pepper  corns,  and  two  or  three 
cloves,  lay  it  close  into  a  potting-pan  that  will  but 
just  hold  it;  fill  it  up  with  water,  and  bake  it  three 
hours  ;  then  pound  it  quite  small  in  a  mortar,  and 
add  salt  to  taste  ;  put  a  little  gravy  that  was  baked 
to  it  in  pounding,  if  to  be  eaten  soon,  otherwise, 
only  a  little  butter  just  melted.  When  done,  cover 
it  over  with  butter. 

To  pot  Veal  or  Chicken  with  Ham. 

Pound  some  cold  veal  or  white  of  chicken,  sea¬ 
soned  as  directed  in  the  last  article,  and  put  layers 
of  it  with  layers  of  ham  pounded  or  rather  shred  ; 
press  each  down,  and  cover  with  butter. 

Cutlets  Maintenon. 

Cut  slices  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  thick, 
heat  them  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  wet  them  on  both 
sides  with  egg  ;  dip  them  into  a  seasoning  of  bread¬ 
crumbs,  parsley,  thyme,  knotted  marjoram,  pepper, 
salt,  and  a  little  nutmeg  grated  ;  then  put  them  into 
papers  folded  over,  and  broil  them,  and  have  in  a 
boat  melted  butter,  with  a  little  mushroom  catsup. 


44 


Outlets  another  way. 

Prepare  as  above,  and  fry  them  ;  lay  them  into  a 
dish,  and  keep  them  hot,  dredge  a  little  flour,  and 
put  a  bit  of  butter  into  the  pan  ;  brown  it,  then  pour 
a  little  boiling  water  into  it,  and  boil  quick  :  season 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  catsup,  and  pour  over  them. 

Veal  Collops, 

Cut  long  thin  collops  ;  beat  them  well,  and  lay  on 
them  a  bit  of  thin  bacon  of  the  same  size,  and 
spread  forcemeat  on  that,  seasoned  high,  and  also  a 
little  garlic  and  Cayanne.  Roll  them  up  tight,  about 
the  size  of  two  fingers,  but  no  more  than  two  or 
three  inches  long  ;  put  a  very  small  skewer  to  fasten 
each  firmly  ;  rub  egg  over  :  fry  them  of  a  fine  brown, 
and  pour  a  rich  brow  n  gravy  over. 

To  dress  Collops  quick. 

Cut  them  as  thin  as  paper  with  a  very  sharp  knife, 
and  in  small  bits.  Throw  the  skin  and  any  odd  bits 
of  the  veal,  into  a  little  water,  with  a  dust  of  pep¬ 
per  and  salt ;  set  them  on  the  fire  while  you  beat  the 
collops :  and  dip  them  into  a  seasoning  of  herbs, 
bread,  pepper,  salt,  and  scrape  of  nutmeg,  but  first 
wet  them  in  egg.  Then  put  a  bit  of  butter  into  a 
frying-pan,  and  give  the  collops,  a  very  quick  fry  ; 
for  as  they  are  so  thin,  two  minutes  will  do  them  on 
both  sides  ;  put  them  into  a  hot  dish  before  the  fire  ; 
then  strain  and  thicken  the  gravy,  give  it  aboil  in 
the  frying-pan,  and  pour  it  over  the  collops.  A  lit¬ 
tle  catsup  is  an  improvement. 

Scallops  of  cold  Veal  or  Chicken. 

Mince  the  meat  extremely  small ;  and  set  it  over 
the  fire  with  a  scrap  of  nutmeg,  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  a  little  cream,  for  a  few  minutes  ;  then  put 
it  into  the  scallop  shell,  and  fill  tVem  with  crumbs 


45 


of  bread,  over  which  put  some  bits  of  bi  tter,  and 
brown  them  before  the  fire. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal. 

Cut  a  large  piece  from  the  fat  side  of  the  leg, 
about  nine  inches  long  and  half  as  thick  cud  broad  ; 
beat  it  with  the  rolling-pin  ;  take  off  the  skin,  and 
trim  off  the  rough  edges.  Lard  the  top  and  sides ; 
and  cover  it  with  fat  bacon,  and  then  with  white  pa¬ 
per  Lay  it  into  the  stew-pan  with  any  pieces  of 
undressed  veal  or  mutton,  four  onions,  a  carrot  sli¬ 
ced,  a  faggot  of  sweet  herbs,  four  blades  of  mace, 
four  bay-leaves,  a  pint  of  good  ve  >1  or  mutton  broth, 
and  four  or  five  ounces  of  lean  ham  or  gammon. — 
Cover  the  pan  close,  and  let  it  stew  slowly  three 
hours  ;  then  take  up  the  meat,  remove  all  the  fat 
from  the  gravy,  and  boil  it  quick  to  a  glaze.  Keep 
the  fricandeau  quite  hot,  and  then  glaze  it ;  and  serve 
with  the  remainder  of  the  glaze  in  the  dish,  and 
sorrel-sauce  in  a  sauce  tureen. 

Fricandeau  another  way. 

Take  two  large  round  sweetbreads  and  prepare 
them  as  you  would  veal  ;  m  ike  a  rich  gravy  with 
truffles,  morels,  mushrooms,  and  artichoke-bottoms, 
and  serve  it  round. 

Veal  Olives. 

Cut  long  thin  collop>,  beat  them,  lay  on  them  thin 
slices  of  fat  bacon,  and  over  these  a  layer  of  force¬ 
meat  seasoned  high,  with  some  shred  shallot  and 
Cayenne.  Roll  them  tight, J  about  the  size  of  two 
fingers,  but  not  more  than  two  or  three  inches  long, 
fasten  them  round  with  a  small  skewer,  rub  egg 
over  them,  and  fry  them  of  a  light  brown. 

Serve  with  brown  gravy,  in  which  boil  some 
mushrooms  pickled  or  fresh.  Garnish  with  balls  fried. 


46 


Veal  Cake. 

Boil  six  or  eight  eggs  hard  ;  cut  the  yolks  in  two, 
and  lay  some  of  the  pieces  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot . 
shake  in  a  little  chopped  parsley,  some  slices  of  veal 
and  ham,  add  then  eggs  again ;  shaking  in  after  each 
some  chopped  parsley,  with  pepper  and  salt,  till  the 
pot  is  full.  Then  put  in  water  enough  to  cover  it, 
and  lay  on  it  about  an  ounce  of  butter  ;  lie  it  ovei 
with  a  double  paper,  and  bake  it  about  an  hour. 
Then  press  it  close  together  with  a  spoon,  and  let  it 

stand  till  cold.  . 

It,  may  be  put  into  a  small  mould  ;  and  then  it  will 

turn  out  beautifully  for  a  supper  or  side  dish. 

Veal  Sausages. 

Chop  equal  quantities  of  lean  and  fat  bacon,  a 
handful  of  sage,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  few 
anchovies.  Beat  all  in  a  mortar ;  and  when  used 
roll  and  fry  it,  and  serve  it  with  fried  sippets,  or  on 
stewed  vegetables,  or  on  white  collops. 

Scotch  Collops. 

Cut  veal  into  thin  bits  about  three  inches  over, 
and  rather  round ;  beat  with  a  rolling-pin,  and 
grate  a  little  nutmeg  over  them ;  dip  into  the  yolk 
of  an  egg,  and  fry  them  in  a  little  butter  of  a  fine 
brown:  pour  the  butter  off :  and  ready  warm  to 
pour  upon  them  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  a  little  bit  ol 
butter  rubbed  into  a  little  flour,  a  yolk  of  egg,  two 
large  spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  a  bit  of  salt.  Do  not 
boil  the  sauce,  but  it  till  of  a  fine  thickness  to 
serve  with  the  collo* 


To  boil  Calf's  Head.  [  . 

Clean  it  very  nicely,  and  soak  it  in  water,  till  it 
may  look  very  white  :  take  out  the  tongue  to  sa  , 
and  the  brains  to  make  a  little  dish.  Boil  the  head 


47 


extremely  tender ;  then  strew  it  over  with  crumbs 
and  chopped  parsley,  and  brown  them  ;  or  if  liked 
better,  leave  one  side  plain.  Bacon  and  greens  are 
to  be  served  to  eat  with  it. 

The  brains  must  be  boiled  ;  and  then  mixed  with 
melted  butter,  scalded  sage  chopped  ;  pepper,  and 
salt. 

If  any  of  the  head  is  left,  it  may  be  hashed  next 
•1  ay,  and  a  few  slices  of  bacon  just  warmed  and  put 
round.  Cold  calf’s  head  eats  well  if  grilled. 

To  hash  Calfs  Head , 

When  half  boiled  cut  off  the  meat  in  slices,  half 
an  inch  thick,  and  two  or  three  inches  long  :  brown 
some  butter,  flour,  and  sliced  onion,  and  throw  in 
the  slices  with  some  good  gravy,  truffles,  and  mo¬ 
rels  ;  give  it  one  boil,  and  skim  it  well,  and  set  it  in 
a  moderate  heat  to  simmer  till  very  tender. 

Season  with  pepper,  salt  and  Cayenne,  at  first ; 
and  ten  minutes  before  serving,  throw  in  some  shred 
parsley,  and  a  very  small  bit  of  taragon  and  knotted- 
marjoram  cut  as  fine  ns  possible  ;  just  before  you 
serve,  add  the  squeeze  of  a  lemon.  Forcemeat- 
balls,  and  bits  of  bacon  rolled  round. 

Calf’s  Head  Fricasseed. 

Clean  and  half  boil  a  bead  ;  cut  the  meat  into 
«mall  bits,  and  put  it  into  a  tosser,  with  a  little  gravy 
made  of  the  bones,  some  of  the  water  it  was  boiled 
in,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  an  onion  and  a  blade  of 
mace.  If  you  have  any  young  cockrels  in  the  house, 
flse  the  coxcombs  ;  but  first  boil  them  tender,  and 
blanch  them ;  or  a  sweet-bread  will  do  as  good. 
Season  the  gravy  with  a  little  pepper,  nutmeg,  and 
salt,  rub  down  some  flour  and  butter,  and  give  all  a 
boil  together  ;  then  take  out  the  herbs  and  onion  . 


48 


and  add  a  little  cup  of  cream,  but  do  not  boil  it  in.— 
Serve  with  small  bits  of  bacon  rolled  round,  and  balls. 

To  collar  Calf’s  Head. 

Scald  the  skin  off  a  fine  head,  clean  it  nicely,  and 
take  out  the  brains.  Boil  it  tender  enough  to  re¬ 
move  the  bones  :  then  have  ready  a  good  quantity  of 
chopped  parsley,  mace,  nutmeg,  salt,  and  white 
pepper,  mixed  well  ;  season  it  high  with  these  ; 
lay  the  parsley  in  a  thick  layer,  then  a  quantity  of 
thick  slices  of  fine  ham,  or  a  beautiful-coloured 
tongue  skinned,  and  then  the  yolks  of  six  nice  yel¬ 
low  eggs  stuck  here  and  there  about.  Roll  the  head 
quite  close,  and  tie  it  up  as  tight  as  you  can.  Boil 
it,  and  then  lay  a  weight  on  it. 

A  cloth  must  be  put  under  the  tape,  as  for  the 
other  collars. 

Mock  Turtle. 

Bespeak  a  calf’s  head  with  the  skin  on,  cut  it  in 
half,  and  clean  it  well ;  then  half-boil  it,  take  all  the 
meat  off  in  square  bits,  break  the  bones  of  the  head, 
and  boil  them  in  some  veal  and  beef  broth  to  add  to 
the  richness.  Fry  some  shallot  in  butter,  and 
dredge  in  flour  enough  to  thicken  the  gravy ;  stir 
this  into  the  browning,  and  give  it  one  or  two  boils  : 
skim  it  carefully,  and  then  put  in  the  head  ;  put  in 
also  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  and  simmer  till  the  meat 
is  quite  tender.  About  ten  minutes  before  you 
serve,  put  in  some  basil,  taragon,  chives,  parsley, 
Cayenne  pepper,  and  salt,  to  your  taste;  also  two 
spoonfuls  or  mushroom-catsup,  and  one  of  soy. 

Squeeze  the  juice  ot  a  lemon  into  the  tureen,  and 
pour  the  soup  upon  it.  Forcemeat-balls  and  small 
eggs. 

A  cheaper  way. — Prepare  half  a  calf’s  head  with¬ 
out  the  skin  as  above  :  when  the  meat  is  cut  ofi* 


49 


break  the  bones,  and  put  them  into  a  sauce-pan  with 
some  gravy  made  of  beef  and  veal  bones,  and  sea¬ 
soned  with  fried  onions,  herbs,  mace,  and  pepper. 
Have  ready  two  or  three  ox-palates  boiled  so  ten¬ 
der  as  to  blanch,  and  cut  into  small  pieces  ;  to  which 
a  cow  heel,  likewise  cut  into  pieces,  is  a  great  im¬ 
provement.  Brown  some  butter,  dour,  and  onion, 
and  pour  the  gravy  to  it  ;  then  add  the  meats  as 
above,  and  stew.  Half  a  pint  of  sherry,  an  ancho¬ 
vy,  two  spoonfuls  of  walnut  catsup,  the  same  of  mush¬ 
room  catsup,  and  some  chopped  herbs  as  before. — 
Balls,  Lc. 

Another. — Put  into  a  can  a  knuckle  of  veal,  two 
fine  cow-heels,  two  onions,  a  few  cloves,  pep¬ 
pers,  berries  of  alspice,  mace,  and  sweet  herbs  : 
cover  them  with  wut  r,  then  tie  a  thick  paper  over 
the  pan,  and  set  it  in  an  oven  for  three  hours. — 
When  cold  take  off  the  fat  very  nicely  ;  cut  the  meat 
and  feet  into  bits  an  inch  and  a  half  square  ;  remove 
the  bones  and  coarse  parts  ;  and  then  put  the  rest 
on  to  warm,  with  a  large  spoonful  of  walnut  and  one 
of  mushroom  catsup,  half  a  pint  of  sherry  or  Madei¬ 
ra  wine,  a  little  mushroom  powder,  and  the  jelly  of 
the  meat.  When  hot,  if  it  wants  any  more  season¬ 
ing,  add  some  ;  and  serve  with  hard  eggs,  force¬ 
meat-balls,  squeeze  of  lemon,  and  a  spoonful  of  soy. 

An  excellent  and  very  cheap  mock  turtle  may  be 
made  of  two  or  three  cow-heels  baked  with  two 
pounds  and  a  half  of  gravy-beef,  herbs,  &c.  as  above 
with  cow-heels  and  veal. 

Calf's  Liver. 

Slice  it,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  broil 
nicely  ;  rub  a  bit  of  cold  butter  on  it,  and  serve  hot 
and  hot. 


5 


60 


Calf’s  Liver  roasted. 

Wash,  and  wipe  it ;  then  cut  a  long  hole  in  it,  and 
stuff  it  with  crumbs  of  bread,  chopped  anchovy, 
herbs,  a  good  deal  of  fat  bacon,  onion,  salt,  pepper, 
a  bit  of  butter,  and  an  egg  ;  sew  the  liver  up  ;  then 
lard  it,  or  wrap  it  in  a  veal-cawl,  and  roast  it. — 
Serve  with  good  brown  gravy,  and  currant-jelly. 

To  dress  the  Liver  and  Lights. 

Half-boil  an  equal  quantity  of  each,  then  cut  them 
in  a  middling-sized  mince,  put  to  it  a  spoonful  or  two 
of  the  water  that  boiled  it,  abit  of  butter,  flour,  salt, 
and  pepper,  simmer  ten  minutes  and  serve  hot. 

Sweetbreads. 

Half-boil  them,  and  stew  them  in  a  white  gravy, 
add  cream,  flour,  butter,  nutmeg,  salt,  and  white 
pepper. 

Or  do  them  in  white  sauce  seasoned. 

Or  parboil  them,  and  then  cover  them  with 
crumbs,  herbs,  and  seasoning  ;  and  brown  them  in 
a  Dutch  oven.  Serve  with  butter,  and  mushroom 
catsup,  or  gravy. 

Sweetbreads  roasted. 

Parboil  two  large  ones  :  when  cold  lard  them  with 
bacon,  and  roast  them  in  a  Dutch  oven.  For  sauce, 
plain  butter  and  mushroom  catsup. 

Sweetbread  Ragout. 

Cut  them,  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  wash  and 
dry  them,  then  fry  them  of  a  fine  brown  ;  pour  to 
them  a  good  gravy,  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper, 
alspice,  and  either  mushrooms  or  mushroom  catsup ; 
strain,  and  thicken  with  butter  and  a  little  flour. 

’  Kidney. 

Chop  veal-kidney,  and  some  of  the  fat ;  likewise 
a  little  leek  or  onion,  pepper  and  salt ;  roll  it  up 
with  an  egg  into  balls,  and  fry  them. 


51 


Calf’s  heart  stuff  and  roast  as  beef’s  heart :  or 
sliced,  make  it  into  a  pudding,  as  directed  for  steak 
or  kidney  pudding. 

PORK,  ETC. 

Bacon  hogs  and  porkers  are  differently  cut  up. 

Hogs  are  kept  to  a  large  size  ;  the  chine,  (or 
back-bone,)  is  cut  down  on  each  side,  the  whole 
length,  and  is  a  prime  part  either  boiled  or  roasted. 

The  sides  of  a  hog  are  made  into  bacon,  and  the 
inside  is  cut  out  with  very  little  meat  to  the  bone. 
On  each  side  there  is  a  large  spare-rib  ;  which  is 
usually  divided  into  two,  one  sweet-bone,  and  a 
blade-bone.  The  bacon  is  the  whole  outside :  and 
contains  a  fore-leg  and  a  ham ;  which  last  is  the 
hind-leg,  but  if  left  with  the  bacon  it  is  called  a 
gammon. 

To  roast  a  leg  of  Pork. 

Choose  a  small  leg  of  tine  young  pork  :  cut  a  slit 
in  the  knuckle  with  a  sharp  knife  ;  and  fill  the  space 
with  sage  and  onion  chopped,  and  a  little  pepper 
and  salt.  When  half-done,  score  the  skin  in  slices, 
but  do  not  cut  deeper  than  the  outer  rind. 

Apple-sauce  and  potatoes  should  be  served  to  eat 
with  it. 

To  boil  a  leg  of  Pork. 

Salt  it  eight  or  ten  days  :  when  it  is  to  be  dressed 
weigh  it ;  let  it  lie  half  an  hour  in  cold  water,  to 
make  it  white  :  allow  a  quarter  of  an  hour  for  every 
pound,  and  half  an  hour  over  from  the  time  it  boils 
up  ;  skim  it  as  soon  as  it  boils,  and  frequently  after. 
Allow  water  enough. — Save  some  of  it  to  make 
peas-soup.  Some  boil  it  in  a  very  nice  cloth,  flour¬ 
ed  ;  which  gives  a  very  delicate  look.  It  should 
be  small  and  of  a  fine  grain.  Serve  peas-pudding 
and  turnips  with  it. 


52 


V  / 

Loin  and  Neck  of  Pork 

Roast  them.  Cut  the  skin  oi  the  loin  across,  at 
distances  of  half  an  inch,  with  a  sharp  pen-knife. 

Shoulders  and  Breasts  of  Pork. 

Put  them  into  pickle,  or  salt  the  shoulder  as  a 
a  leg  :  when  very  nice,  they  may  be  roasted. 

Rolled  Neck  of  Pork. 

Bone  it ;  put  a  forcemeat  of  chopped  sage,  a  very 
few  crumbs  of  bread,  salt,  pepper,  and  two  or  three 
berries  of  alspice,  over  the  inside  ;  then  roll  the 
meat  as  tight  as  you  can,  and  roast  it  slowly,  and  at 
a  good  distance  at  first. 

Spring  or  Forehand  of  Pork. 

Cut  out  the  bone  :  sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  and  sage, 
dried,  over  the  inside  ;  but  first  warm  a  little  but¬ 
ter  to  baste  it,  and  then  flour  it  ;  roll  the  pork  tight, 
and  tie  it ;  then  roast  by  a  hanging  jack.  About 
two  hours  will  do  it. 

Spo,re-Rib 

Should  be  basted  with  a  very  little  butter  and  a 
little  flour,  and  then  sprinkled  with  a  little  dried 
sage  crumbled. — Apple-sauce  and  potatoes  for 
roasted  pork. 

Pork  Griskin 

Is  usually  very  hard  ;  the  best  way  to  prevent 
this  is,  to  put  it  into  as  much  cold  water  as  will  cover 
it,  and  let  it  boil  up  ;  then  instantly  take  it  ofl,  and 
put  it  into  a  Dutch  oven  ;  a  very  few  minutes  will 
doit.  Remember  to  rub  butter  over  it,  and  then 
flour  it,  before  you  put  it  to  the  fire. 

Blade-bone  of  Pork. 

Is  taken  from  the  bacon-hog  ;  the  less  meat  left  on 
it,  in  moderation,  the  better.  It  is  to  be  broiled; 
and  when  just  done,  pepper  and  salt  it.  Put  to  it  a 


53 


piece  of  buttei’,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  mustard  ;  and 
serve  it  covered,  quickly. 

Pork-steaks. 

Cut  them  from  a  loin  or  neck,  and  of  middling 
thickness  :  pepper  and  broil  them,  turning  them 
often  ;  when  nearly  done,  put  on  salt,  rub  a  bit  of 
butter  over,  and  serve  the  moment  they  are  taken 
off  the  fire,  a  few  at  a  time. 

Sausages. 

Chop  fat  and  lean  pork  together ;  season  it  with 
sage,  pepper  and  salt,  and  you  may  add  two  or  three 
berries  of  alspice ;  half  Jill  hog’s  guts  that  have' 
been  soaked  and  made  extremely  clean  :  or  the  meat 
may  be  kept  in  a  very  small  pan  closely  covered  : 
and  so  rolled  and  dusted  with  a  very  little  flour  be 
fore  it  is  fried.  Serve  cn  stewed  red  cabbage  ;  or 
mash  potatoes  put  in  ;  form,  brown  with  salamander, 
and  garnish  with  the  above  ;  they  must  be  pricked 
with  a  fork  before  they  are  dressed,  or  they  will  burst. 

An  excellent  Sausage  to  eat  cold. 

Season  fat  and  lean  pork  with  some  salt,  saltpetre, 
black  pepper,  and  alspice,  all  in  fine  powder,  and 
rub  into  the  meat ;  the  sixth  day  cut  it  small,  and 
mix  with  it  some  shred  shallot  or  garlic,  as  fine  as 
possible. — Have  ready  an  ox-gut  that  has  been 
scoured,  salted,  and  soaked  well,  and  fill  it  with  the 
above  stuffing  ;  tie  up  the  ends,  and  hang  it  to  smoke 
as  you  would  hams  but  first  wrap  it  in  a  fold  or  two 
of  old  muslin.  It  must  be  high-dried.  Some  eat  it 
without  boiling,  but  others  iike  it  boiled  first.  The 
6kin  should  be  tied  in  different  places,  so  as  to  make 
each  link  about  eight  or  nine  inches  long. 

Sausages. 

Chop  a  pound  and  a  half  of  pork,  and  the  same  of 

5* 


54 


yeal,  cleared  of  skin  and  sinews  ;  add  three  quarters 
of  a  pound  of  beef-suet  ;  mince  and  mix  them  :  steep 
the  crumb  ofa  penny-loaf  in  water,  and  mix  it  with 
the  meat,  with  also  a  lutle  dried  sage,  pepper  and 
salt. 

To  roast  a  sucking  Pig, 

Ifyou  can  get  it  when  just. killed,  this  is  of  g’  A 
advantage.  Let  it  be  scalded,  which  the  deu.jrs 
usually  do  ;  then  put  some  sage,  crumbs  of  bread, 
salt,  and  pepper,  into  the  belly,  and  sew  it  up.  Ob¬ 
serve  to  skewer  the  legs  back  or  the  under  part 
will  not  crisp. 

Lay  it  to  a  brisk  fire  till  thoroughly  dry  ;  then 
have  ready  some  butter  in  a  dry  cloth,  and  rub  the 
pig  with  it  in  every  part.  Dredge  >s  much  flour 
over  as  will  possibly  lie,  and  do  not  touch  it  again 
till  ready  to  serve  ;  then  scrape  off  the  flour  very 
carefully  with  a  blunt  knife,  rub  it  well  with  the 
buttered  cloth,  and  take  off  the  h  1  while  at  the 
fire  ;  take  out  the  brains,  and  mix  them  with  the 
gravy  that  comes  from  the  pig.  Then  take  it  up  ; 
and  without  withdrawing  the  spit,  cut  it  down  the 
back  and  belly,  lay  it  into  the  dish,  and  chop  the  sage 
and  bread  quickly,  as  fine  as  you  can,  and  mix  them 
with  a  large  quantity  of  fine,  melted  butter  that  has 
very  little  flour.  Put  the  s  nice  into  the  dish  after 
the  pig  has  been  split  down  the  back,  and  garnished 
with  the  ears  and  the  two  jaws  ;  t  ike  off  the  upper 
part  of  the  head  down  to  the  snout. 

Pettitoes. 

Boil  them,  the  liver,  and  the  heart,  in  a  small 
quantity  of  water,  very  gently  ;  then  cut  the  meat 
fine,  and  simmer  it  with  a  little  of  the  water  and  the 
feet  split,  till  the  feet  are  quite  tender  ;  thicken 
with  a  bit  of  butter,  a  little  flour,  a  spoonful  of  cream, 


55 


and  a  little  salt  and  pepper  :  give  it  a  boil  up,  pour 
it  over  a  few  sippets  of  bread,  and  put  the  feet  on 
the  mince. 

To  make  excellent  meat  of  a  Hog's  Head. 

Split  the  head,  take  out  the  brains,  cut  off  the 
ears,  and  sprinkle  it  with  common  salt  for  a  day  ; 
then  drain  it  :  salt  it.  well  with  common  salt  and 
saltpetre  three  days,  then  lay  the  salt  and  head  into 
a  small  quantity  of  water  for  two  days.  Wash  it, 
and  boil  ii  till  all  the  bones  will  come  out ;  remove 
them,  and  chop  the  head  as  quick  as  possible  :  but 
first  skin  the  tongue,  and  take  the  skin  carefully  off 
the  head,  to  put  under  and  over.  Season  with  pep¬ 
per,  salt,  and  a  littte  mace  or  alspice  berries.  Put 
the  skin  into  a  small  pan,  press  the  cut  head  in,  and 
put  the  other  skin  over:  press  it  down.  When 
cold,  it  will  turn  out,  and  make  a  kind  of  brawn.  If 
too  fat,  you  may  put  a  few  bits  of  lean  pork  to  be, 
prepared  the  same  way.  Add  salt  and  vinegar,  and 
boil  these  with  some  of  the  liquor  for  a  pickle  to 
keep  it. 

To  roast  a  Porker's  Head . 

Choose  a  fine  young  head,  clean  it  well,  and  put 
bread  and  sage  as  for  pig  ;  sew  it  up  tight,  and  on  a 
string  or  hanging  jack  roast  it  as  a  pig,  and  serve 
with  the  same  sauce. 

To  collar  Pig's  Head. 

Scour  the  head  atid*ears  nicely;  take  off  the  hair 
and  snout,  and  take  out  the  eyes  and  the  brain  ;  lay 
it  into  water  one  night,  then  drain,  salt  it  extremely 
well  with  common  salt  and  saltpetre,  and  let  it  lie 
five  days.  Boil  it  enough  to  take  out  the  bones  ; 
then  lay  it  on  a  dresser,  turning  the  thick  end  of 
one  side  of  the  head  towards  the  thin  end  of  the 


56 


other,  to  make  the  roll  of  equal  size  ;  sprinkle  it 
well  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and  roll  it  with  the 
ears  ;  and  if  you  approve  put  the  pig’s  feet  round 
the  outside  when  boned,  or  the  thin  parts  of  two 
cow-heels.  Put  it  into  a  cloth,  bind  with  a  broad 
tape,  and  boil  it  till  quite  tender  ;  then  put  a  good 
weight  upon  it,  and  do  not  take  off  the  covering  till 
cold. 

If  you  choose  it  to  be  more  like  brawn,  salt  it 
longer,  and  let  the  proportion  of  saltpetre  be  great¬ 
er,  and  put  in  also  some  pieces  of  lean  pork  ;  and 
then  cover  it  with  cow  heel  to  look  like  the  horn. 

This  may  be  kept  either  in  Or  out  of  pickle  of 
salt  and  water  boiled,  with  vinegar  ;  and  is  a  conve 
nient  thing  to  have  in  the  house. 

If  likely  to  spoil,  slice  and  fry  it  either  with  or 
without  batter. 

To  force  Hog’s  Ears. 

Parboil  two  pair  of  ears,  or  take  some  that  have 
been  souced  :  make  a  forcemeat  of  an  anchovy,  some 
sage,  parsley,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  suet  chopped, 
bread-crumbs,  pepper,  and  only  a  little  salt.  Mix 
all  these  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  ;  raise  the  skin 
of  the  upper  side  of  the  ears,  and  stuff  them  with 
the  above.  Fry  the  ears  in  fresh  butter,  of  a  fine 
colour ;  then  pour  away  the  fat,  and  drain  them : 
make  ready  half  a  pint  of  rich  gravy,  with  a  glass 
of  fine  sherry,  three  tea-spoonfuls  of  made  mustard, 
a  little  bit  of  flour  and  butter,  a  small  onion  whole, 
and  a  little  pepper  or  Cayenne.  Put  this  with  the 
ears,  into  a  stew-pan,  and  cover  it  close  ;  stew  it 
gently  for  half  an  hour,  shaking  the  pan  often. — 
When  done  enough,  take  out  the  onion,  place  the 
ears  carefully  in  a  dish,  and  pour  the  sauce  over 


them.  If  a  larger  dish  is  wanted,  the  meat  from  two 
feet  may  be  added  to  the  above. 

Different  ways  of  dressing  Pig's  feet  and  Ears. 

Clean  carefully,  and  soak  some  hours,  and  boil 
them  tender  ;  then  t  ike  them  out  ;  boil  some  vine¬ 
gar  and  a  hale  salt  with  some  of  the  water,  and  when 
cold  put  it  over  tl.ern.  When  they  are  to  be  dres¬ 
sed,  dry  them,  cut  the  feet  in  two,  and  slice  the  ears  ; 
fry,  and  serve  with  butter,  mustard,  and  vinegar. 
They  may  be  either  done  in  batter,  or  only  floured. 

Pig's  Feel  and  Ears  Fricasseed. 

Put  no  vinegar  into  the  pickle,  if  to  be  dressed 
with  cream.  Cut  the  feet  and  ears  into  neat  bits, 
and  boil  them  in  a  little  milk  ;  then  pour  that  from 
them,  and  simmer  in  a  little  veal-broth,  with  a  bit  of 
onion,  mace,  and  lemon  peel.  Before  you  serve,, 
add  a  little  cream,  flour,  butter,  and  salt. 

Jelly  of  Pig's  Feet  and  Ears. 

Clean  and  prepare  as  in  the  last  article,  then  boil 
them  in  a  ver\  small  quantity  of  water,  till  every 
bone  can  be  taken  out  ;  throw  in  half  an  handful  of 
chopped  sage,  the  same  of  parsley,  and  a  seasoning 
of  pepper,  salt,  and  mace  in  fine  powder  ;  simmer 
till  the  herbs  are  scalded,  then  pour  the  whole  in  a 
melon  form. 

Pig's  Harslet. 

Wash  and  dry  some  liver,  sweetbreads,  and  fat 
and  le,.n  bits  of  pork,  beating  the  latter  with  a  roll¬ 
ing-pin  to  m  ike  it  tender  :  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
sage,  and  a  little  onion  shred  fine  ;  when  mixed,  put 
all  into  a  cawl,  and  fasten  it  up  tight  with  a  needle  and 
thread.  Roast  it  on  a  hanging  jack,  or  by  a  string. 

Or  serve  in  slices  with  parsley  for  a  fry. 

Serve  with  a  sauce  of  port-wine  and  water,  and 
mustard,  just  boiled  up,  and  put  into  a  dish. 


5S 


Mock  Brawn 

Boil  a  pair  of  neat’s  feet  very  tender  :  take  the 
meat  off,  and  have  ready  the  belly-piece  of  pork, 
salted  with  common  salt  and  saltpetre  for  a  week. — 
Boil  this  almost  enough  :  take  out  the  bones,  and  roll 
the  feet  and  the  pork  together.  Then  roll  it  very 
tight  with  a  strong  cloth  and  coarse  tape.  Boil  it  till 
very  tender,  then  hang  it  up  in  the  cloth  till  cold,  af¬ 
ter  which  keep  it  in  a  sousing  liquor,  as  is  directed 
in  the  next  article. 

Souse  for  Brawn ,  and  for  Pig's  Feet  and  Ears. 

Boil  a  quarter  of  a  peck  of  wheat-bran,  a  sprig  of 
bay,  and  a  sprig  of  rosemary,  in  two  gallons  of  wa¬ 
ter,  with  four  ounces  of  salt  in  it,  for  half  an  hour. 
Strain  it,  and  let  it  get  cold. 

To  make  Black  Puddings. 

The  blood  must  be  stirred  with  salt  till  cold.  Put 
a  quart  of  it,  or  rather  more,  to  a  quart  of  whole 
grits,  to  soak  one  night,  and  soak  the  crumb  of  a 
quartern  loaf  in  rather  m$-e  than  two  quarts  of  new 
milk  made  hot.  In  the  mean  time  prepare  the  guts 
by  washing,  turning  and  scraping  with  salt  and  water, 
and  changing  the  water  several  times.  Chop  fine  a 
little  winter-savoury  and  thyme,  a  good  quantity  of 
penny-royal,  pepper  and  salt,  a  few  cloves,  some 
alspice,  ginger,  and  nutmeg,  mix  these  with  three 
pounds  of  beef-suet,  and  six  eggs  well  beaten  and 
strained:  and  then  beat  bread,  grits,  &  c.  all  up  with 
the  seasoning  ;  when  well  mixed,  have  ready  some 
hog’s  fat  cut  into  large  bits,  and  as  you  fill  the  skins, 
put  it  in  at  proper  distances.  Tie  in  links  ouly  half 
filled  ;  and  boil  in  a  large  kettle,  pricking  them  as 
they  swell,  or  they  will  burst.  When  boiled,  lay 
them  between  clean  cloths  till  cold,  and  hang  them 
up  in  the  kitchen.  When  to  be  used,  scald  them  a 


59 

few  minutes  in  water,  wipe,  and  put  them  into  e 
Dutch  oven. 

If  there  are  not  skins  enough,  put  the  stuffing  in¬ 
to  basins,  and  boil  it  covered  with  flour  cloths  ;  and 
slice  and  fry  it  when  used. 

Another  way. — Boil  a  quart  of  half-grits  in  as  much 
milk  as  will  swell  them  to  the  utmost :  then  drain 
them  and  add  a  quart  of  blood,  a  pint  of  rich  cream, 
a  pound  of  suet,  some  mace,  nutmeg,  alspice,  and 
four  cloves,  all  in  one  powder  ;  two  pounds  of  the 
hog’s  leaf  cut  into  dice,  two  leeks,  a  handful  of  pars¬ 
ley,  ten  leaves  of  sage,  a  large  handful  of  penny¬ 
royal,  a  sprig  of  thyme  and  knotted  marjoram,  all 
minced  fine  ;  eight  eggs  well  beaten,  half  a  pound 
of  bread  crumbs  that  have  been  scalded,  wdth  a  pint 
of  milk,  pepper,  and  salt.  Half  fill  the  skins  ;  which 
must  be  cleaned  with  the  greatest  care,  turned  se¬ 
veral  times,  and  soaked  in  several  waters,  and  last  in 
rosewater.  Tie  the  skins  in  links,  boil  and  prick  them 
with  a  clean  fork,  to  prevcut  their  bursting.  Cover 
them  with  a  clean  cloth  till  cold. 

White  Hog's  Puddings. 

When  the  skins  have  been  soaked  and  cleaned  as 
before  directed,  rinse  and  soak  them  all  night  in  rose¬ 
water,  and  put  into  them  the  following  fillings  ;  mix 
half  a  pound  of  blanched  almonds  cut  into  seven  or 
eight  bits,  with  a  pound  of  grated  bread,  two  pounds 
of  marrow  or  suet,  a  pound  of  currants,  some  beaten 
cinnamon,  cloves,  mace,  and  nutmeg,  a  quart  of 
cream,  the  yolks  of  six  and  white  of  two  eggs,  a  lit¬ 
tle  orange-flower  water,  alittle  fine  Lisbon  sugar,  and 
lemon-peel  and  citron  sliced,  and  half  fill  the  skins. 
To  know  whether  sweet  enough,  warm  a  little  in  a 
panikin.  In  boiling,  much  care  must  he  taken  to 
prevent  the  puddings  from  bursting.  Prick  the)Q$ 


CO 


with  a  small  fork  as  they  rise,  and  boil  them  in  milk 
and  water.  Lay  them  in  a  table-cloth  till  cold. 

Hog's  Lard 

Should  be  carefully  melted  in  ajar,  put  into  a  kettle 
of  water  and  boiled  ;  run  it  into  bladders  that  have 
been  extremely  well  cleaned.  The  smaller  they  are 
the  better  *he  lard  keeps,  as,  after  the  air  reaches  . 
it,  it  becomes  rank.  Put  in  a  sprig  of  rosemary 
when  melting. 

MUTTON 

Observations  on  cutting  and  dressing  Mutton. 

Take  away  the  pipe  that  runs  along  the  bone  of 
the  inside  of  a  chine  of  mutton  ;  and  it  to  be  kept  a 
great  time,  rub  the  part  close  round  the  tail  with 
salt,  after  first  cutting  out  the  kernel 

Every  kernel  should  be  taken  out  of  all  sorts  of 
meat  as  soon  as  brought  in  :  then  wipe  dry. 

For  roasting,  it  should  hang  as  long  as  it  will  keep, 
the  hind  quarter  especially,  but  not  so  long  as  to  taint ; 
for  whatever  fashion  may  authorize,  putrid  juices 
ought  not  to  be  taken  into  the  stomach. 

Leg  of  Mutton. 

If  roasted,  serve  with  onion  or  currant-jelly  sauce, 
if  boiled,  with  caper-sauce  and  vegetables. 

Neck  of  Mutton 

Is  particularly  useful,  as  so  many  dishes  may  be 
made  of  it ;  but  it  is  not  advantageous  for  the  family. 
The  bones  should  be  cut  short,  which  the  butchers 
will  not  do  unless  particularly  desired. 

The  best  end  of  the  neck  may  be  boiled,  and  serv- 
ed  with  turnips,  or  roasted,  or  dressed  in  steaks,  in 
pies,  or  harrico. 

The  scrags  may  be  stewed  in  broth  ;  or  with  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  some  small  onions,  a  few 


61 


peppercorns,  and  a  little  rice,  and  served  together. 
When  a  neck  is  to  be  boiled  to  look  particularly 
nice,  saw  down  the  chine-bone,  strip  the  ribs  half¬ 
way  down,  and  chop  off  the  ends  of  the  bones  about 
four  inches.  The  skin  should  not  be  taken  off  till  boil¬ 
ed,  and  then  the  fat  will  look  the  whiter. 

To  dress  Haunch  of  Mutton. 

Keep  it  as  long  as  it  can  be  preserved  sweet  by 
the  different  modes  ;  let  it  be  washed  with  warm 
milk  and  water,  or  vinegar,  if  necessary  ;  but  when 
to  be  dressed,  observe  to  wash  it  well  lest  the  out¬ 
side  should  have  a  bad  flavour  from  keeping.  Put 
a  paste  of  coarse  flour  or  strong  paper,  and  fold  the 
haunch  in  ;  set  it  a  great  distance  from  the  fire,  and 
allow  a  proportionable  time  for  the  paste  ;  do  not 
take  it  off  till  about  thirty-five  or  forty  minutes  be¬ 
fore  serving,  and  then  baste  it  continually.  Bring 
the  haunch  nearer  to  the  fire  before  you  take  off 
the  paste,  and  froth  it  up  as  you  would  venison. 

A  gravy  must  be  made  of  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
loin  of  old  mutton,  simmered  in  a  pint  of  water  to 
half,  and  no  seasoning  but  salt;  brown  it  with  a  lit¬ 
tle  burnt  sugar,  and  send  it  up  in  the  dish  ;  but  there 
should  be  a  good  deal  of  gravy  in  the  meat,  for 
though  long  at  the  fire,  the  distance  and  covering 
will  prevent  its  roasting  out. — Serve  with  currant- 
jelly  sauce. 

To  roast  a  saddle  of  Mutton. 

Let  it  be  well  kept  first.  Raise  the  skin,  and 
then  skewer  it  on  again  ;  take  it  off  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  before  serving,  sprinkle  it  with  some  salt, 
baste  it,  and  dredge  it  well  with  flour.  The  rump 
should  be  split,  and  skewered  back  on  each  side. 
The  joint  may  be  large  or  small  according  to  the 

6 


Q2 

company  ;  it  is  the  most  elegant  if  the  latter.  Be¬ 
ing  broad,  it  requires  a  high  and  strong  fire. 

Fillet  of  Mutton  braised. 

Take  off  the  chump  end  of  the  loin,  butter  some 
paper  and  put  over  it,  and  then  paste  as  for  venison  ; 
roast  it  two  hours.  Do  not  let  it  be  the  least  brown. 
Have  ready  some  French  beans  boiled,  and  drained 
on  a  sieve,  and  while  the  mutton  is  glazing,  give 
them  one  heat-up  in  gravy,  and  lay  them  on  the 
dish  with  the  me*at  over  them. 

Harrico. 

Take  off  some  of  the  fat,  and  cut  the  middle  or 
best  end  of  the  neck  into  rather  thin  steaks,  flour 
and  fry  them  in  their  own  fat  of  a  fine  light  brown, 
but  not  enough  for  eating.  Then  put  them  into  a 
dish  while  you  fry  the  carrots,  turnips,  and  onions, 
the  carrots  and  turnips  in  dice,  the  onions  sliced,  but 
they  must  only  be  warmed,  not  browned,  or  you 
need  not  fry  them.  Then  lay  the  steaks  at  the 
bottom  of  a  stew-pan,  the  vegetables  over  them, 
and  pour  as  much  boiling  water  as  will  cover  them, 
give  one  boil,  skim  well,  and  then  set  the  pan  on 
the  side  of  the  fire  to  simmer  gently  till  tender.  In 
three  or  four  hours  skim  them,  and  add  pepper, 
salt,  and  a  spoonful  of  catsup. 

To  hash  Mutton. 

Cut  thin  slices  of  dressed  mutton,  fat  and  lean ; 
flour  them,  have  ready  a  little  onion  boiled  in  two  or 
three  spoonfuls  of  water,  add  to  it  a  little  gravy,  and 
the  meat  seasoned,  and  make  it  hot,  but  not  to  boil. 
Serve  in  a  covered  dish.  Instead  of  onion,  a  clove, 
a  spoonful  of  currant  jelly,  and  half  a  glass  of  port 
wine,  will  give  an  agreeable  flavour  of  venison,  if 
the  meat  be  fine.  Pickled  cucumber,  or  walnut, 
cut  small,  warm  in  it  for  change. 


63 


To  boil  a  Shoulder  of  Mutton  with  Oysters. 

Hang  it  some  days,  then  salt  it  well  for  two  days, 
hone  it,  and  sprinkle  it  with  pepper,  and  a  bit  of 
mace  pounded,  lay  some  oysters  over  it,  and  roll 
the  meat  up  tight  and  tie  it.  Stew  it  in  a  small  quan¬ 
tity  j-of  water,  with  an  onion  and  a  few  pepper-corns, 
till  quite  tender.  Have  ready  a  little  good  gravy, 
and  some  oysters  stewed  in  it,  thicken  this  with  flour 
and  butter,  and  pour  over  the  mutton  when  the  tape 
is  taken  oft  The  stew-pan  should  be  keut  close 
covered. 

Breast  of  Mutton. 

Cut  off  the  superfluous  fat,  and  roast  and  serve  the 
meat  with  stewed  cucumbers  ;  or  to  eat  cold,  cover¬ 
ed  with  chopped  parsley.  Or  half  broil,  and  then 
grill  it  before  the  fire  ;  in  which  case  cover  it  with 
crumbs  and  herbs,  and  serve  with  caper-sauce. — 
Or  if  boned,  take  off  a  good  deal  of  the  fat,  and  co¬ 
ver  it  with  bread,  herbs,  and  seasoning,  then  roll  and 
boil,  and  serve  with  chopped  walnuts,  or  capers  and 
batter. 

Loin  of  Mutton 

Roasted  ;  if  cut  lengthways  as  a  saddle  some  think 
it  cuts  better.  Or  for  steaks,  pies,  or  broth 
To  roll  Loin  of  Mutton. 

Hang  the  mutton  till  tender  ;  bone  it  ;  and  lay  a 
seasoning  of  pepper,  alspiee,  mace,  nutmeg,  and  a 
few  cloves,  all  in  fine  powder,  over  it.  Next  day 
prepare  a  stuffing  as  for  hare  ;  beat  the  meat,  and 
cover  it  with  the  stuffing  ;  roll  it  up  tight,  and  tie  it. 
Half-bake  it  in  a  slow  oven  ;  let  ic  grow  cold  ;  take 
off  the  fat,  and  put  the  gravy  into  a  stew-pan ;  flour 
the  meat,  and  put  it  in  likewise,  stew  it  till  almost 
ready;  and  add  a  glass  of  port  wine,  some  catsup, 
an  anchovy,  and  a  little  lemon  pickle,  half  an  hour 


64 


before  serving  ;  serve  it  in  the  gravy,  and  with  jelly 
sauce.  A  few  fresh  mushrooms  are  a  great  improve¬ 
ment  ;  but  if  to  eat  like  hare,  do  not  use  these,  nor 
the  lemon  pickle. 

Mutton  Ham. 

Choose  a  fine-grained  leg  of  wether  mutton,  of 
twelve  or  fourteen  pounds  weight  ;  let  it  be  cut  ham- 
shape,  and  hang  two  days.  Then  put  into  a  stew- 
pan  half  a  pound  of  bay-salt,  the  same  of  common 
salt,  two  ounces  of  saltpetre,  and  half  a  pound  of 
coarse  sugar,  all  in  powder  ;  mix,  and  make  it  quite 
hot ;  then  rub  it  well  int*  the  ham.  Let  it  be  turn¬ 
ed  in  the  liquor  everyday  ;  at  *he  end  of  four  days 
put  two  ounces  more  of  common  salt ;  in  twelve 
days  take  it  out,  dry  it  and  hang  it  up  in  wood  smoke 
a  week.  It  is  to  be  used  in  slices,  with  stewed  cab¬ 
bage,  mashed  potatoes,  or  eggs. 

Mutton  Collops. 

Take  a  loin  of  mutton  that  has  been  well  hung  ; 
ond  cut  from  the  part  next  the  leg,  some  collops  very 
thin.  Take  out  the  sinews.  Season  the  collops 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  mace  ;  and  strew  over  them 
shred  parsley,  thyme,  and  two  or  three  shallots  ;  fry 
them  in  butter  till  half  done  ;  add  half  a  pint  of  gra¬ 
vy,  a  little  juice  of  lemon,  and  a  piece  of  butter  rub¬ 
bed  in  flour  ;  and  simmer  the  whole  very  gently  five 
minutes.  They  should  be  served  immediately,  or 
they  will  be  bard. 

Mutton  Cutlets  in  the  Portuguese  way. 

Cut  the  chops  ;  and  half  fry  them  with  sliced 
shallot  or  onion,  chopped  parsley,  and  two  bay 
leaves  ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt  ;  then  lay  a 
forcemeat  on  a  piece  of  white  paper,  put  the  chop 
on  it,  and  twist  the  paper  up,  leaving  a  hole  for  the 
end  of  the  bones  to  go  through.  Broil  on  a  gentle 


65 


fire.  Serve  with  sauce  Robart ;  or,  as  the  season 
ing  makes  the  cutlets  high,  a  little  gravy. 

Mutton  Steaks 

Should  be  cut  from  a  loin  or  neck  that  has  hung  ; 
if  a  neck,  the  bones  should  not  be  long.  They 
should  be  broiled  on  a  clear  fire,  seasoned  when  half 
done,  and  often  turned  ;  take  them  up  into  a  very  hot 
dish,  rub  a  bit  of  butter  on  each,  and  serve  hot  and 
hot  the  moment  they  are  done. 

Steaks  of  Mutton ,  or  Lamb ,  and  Cucumbers. 

Quarter  cucumbers,  and  lay  them  into  a  deep  dish, 
sprinkle  them  with  salt,  and  pour  vinegar  over  them. 
Fry  the  chops  of  a  fine  brown,  and  put  them  into  a 
stew-pan  ;  drain  the  cucumbers,  and  put  over  the 
steaks;  add  some  sliced  onions,  pepper,  and  salt ; 
pour  hot  water  or  weak  broth  on  them  ;  stew  and 
skim  well. 

Mutton  Sausages. 

Take  a  pound  of  the  rawest  part  of  the  leg  of 
mutton  that  has  been  either  roasted  or  boiled  ;  chop 
it  extremely  small,  and  season  it  with  pepper,  salt, 
mace,  and  nutmeg  ;  add  to  it  six  ounces  of  beef 
suet,  some  sweet  herbs,  two  anchovies,  and  a  pint 
of  oysters  ;  all  chopped  very  small ;  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  grated  bread,  some  of  the  anchovy  liquor, 
and  the  yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs  well  beaten. 
Put  it  all,  when  well  mixed,  into  a  little  pot,  and 
use  it  by  rolling  it  into  balls  of  a  sausage-shape  and 
frying.  If  approved,  a  little  shallot  may  be  added, 
or  garlic,  which  is  a  great  improvement. 

To  dress  Mutton  Rumps  and  Kidnies. 

Stew  six  rumps  in  some  good  mutton-gravy  half 
ao  hour  ;  then  take  them  up,  and  let  them  stand  to 
ctK*h  Clear  the  gravy  from  the  fat ;  and  put  into  it 
"  6* 


four  ounces  of  boiled  rice,  an  onion  stuck  with 
cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace  ;  boil  them  till  the  rice 
is  thick.  Wash  the  rumps  with  yolks  of  eggs  well 
beaten  ;  and  strew  over  them  crumbs  of  bread,  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  chopped  parsley  and  thyrne, 
and  grated  lemon-peel.  Fry  in  butter  of  a  fine 
brown.  While  the  rumps  are  stewing,  lard  the 
kidnies,  and  put  them  to  roast  in  a  Dutch  oven. 
When  the  rumps  are  fried,  the  grease  must  be 
drained  before  they  are  put  on  the  dish,  and  the 
pan  being  cleared  likewise  from  the  fat,  warm  the 
rice  in  it.  Lay  the  latter  on  the  dish  ;  the  rumps 
put  round  on  the  rice,  the  narrow  ends  towards  the 
middle,  and  the  kidnies  between.  Garnish  with 
hard  eggs  cut  in  half,  the  white  being  left  on  ;  or 
with  different  coloured  pickles. 

An  excellent  Hotch-Potch . 

Stew  peas,  lettuce,  and  onions,  in  a  very  little 
water  with  a  beef  or  ham  bone.  While  these  are 
doing,  fry  some  mutton  or  lamb  steaks  seasoned,  of 
a  nice  brown  ;  three  quarters  of  an  hour  before  din¬ 
ner,  put  the  steaks  into  .  stew-pan,  and  the  vegeta¬ 
bles  over  them  ;  stew  them,  and  serve  altogether  in 
a  tureen. 

Mutton  Kehohhed. 

Take  all  the  fat  out  of  a  loin  of  mutton,  and  that 
on  the  outside  also  if  too  fat,  and  remove  the  skin. 
Joint  it  at  every  bone  ;  mix  a  small  nutmeg  grated 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  crumbs,  and  herbs  ; 
dip  the  steaks  into  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and 
sprinkle  the  above  mixture  all  over  them.  Then 
place  the  steaks  together  as  they  were  before  they 
were  cut  asunder,  tie  them  and  fasten  them  on  a 
small  suit.  Roast  them  at  a  quick  fire  ;  set  a  dish 


under,  and  baste  tliem  with  a  good  piece  of  butter 
and  the  liquor  that  comes  from  the  meat  ;  but  throw 
some  more  of  the  above  seasoning  over.  When 
done  enough,  take  it  up,  and  lay  it  in  a  dish  ;  and 
put  into  it  two  spoonfuls  of  catsup,  and  rub  down  a 
tea-spoonful  of  flour  with  it  ;  give  this  a  boil,  and 
pour  it  over  the  mutton,  but  first  skim  off  the  fat 
well.  Mind  to  keep  the  meat  hot  till  the  gravy  is 
quite  ready. 

China  Chilo. 

Mince  a  pint-basin  of  undressed  neck  of  mutton, 
or  leg,  and  some  of  the  fat  :  put  two  onions,  a  let¬ 
tuce,  a  pint  of  green  peas,  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  n 
tea-spoonful  of  pepper,  four  spoonfuls  of  water, 
and  two  or  three  ounces  of  clarified  butter,  into  a 
stew-pan  closely  covered  :  simmer  two  hours,  and 
serve  in  the  middle  of  a  dish  of  boiled  dry  rice.  If 
Cayenne  is  approved,  add  a  little. 

LAMB. 

Leg  oj  Lamb 

Should  be  boiled  in  a  cloth,  to  look  as  white  as  pos¬ 
sible.  The  loin  fried  in  steaks  and  served  round, 
garnished  with  dried  or  fried  parsley  ;  spinach  to 
eat  with  it ;  or  dressed  separately,  or  roasted. 

Fore-quarter  of  Lamb . 

Roast  it  either  whole  or  in  separate  parts.  If  left 
to  be  cold,  chopped  parsley  should  be  sprinkled 
over  it.  The  neck  and  breast  together  are  called  a 
scoven. 

Breast  of  Lamb  and  Cucumbers. 

Cut  off  the  chine -bone  fiom  the  breast  and  set  it 
on  to  stew  with  a  pint  of  gravy.  When  the  bones 
would  draw  out,  put  it  on  the  gridiron  to  grill  ;  and 
then  lay  it  in  a  dish  on  cucumbers  nicely  stewed. 


68 

Lamb  Steaks. 

Pry  them  ofa  beautiful  brown  ;  when  served  throw 
over  them  a  good  quantity  oferumbs  of  bread  fried, 
and  crimped  parsley  ;  the  receipt  for  doing  which 
of  a  tine  colour  will  be  given  under  the  head  of  Ve¬ 
getables. 

Mutton  or  Iamb-steaks,  seasoned  and  broiled  in 
buttered  papers,  either  with  crumbs  and  herbs,  or 
without,  are  a  genteel  dish  and  eat  well. 

Sauce  for  them,  called  sauce  Robart,  will  be  found 
in  the  list  of  Sauces. 

House-lamb  Steaks ,  brown. 

Season  them  with  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  grated 
lemon-peel,  and  chopped  parsley  ;  but  dip  them  first 
into  egg  ;  fry  them  quick.  Thicken  some  good  gra¬ 
vy  with  a  bit  of  flour  and  butter  ;  and  add  to  it  a 
spoonful  of  port  wine,  and  some  oysters  :  boil  it  up, 
and  then  put  in  the  steaks  warm  ;  let  them  beat  up 
and  serve.  You  may  add  palates,  balls,  or  eggs,  if 
you  like. 

Lamb  Cutlets  with  Spinach. 

Cut  the  steaks  from  the  loin,  and  fry  them  ;  the 
spinach  is  to  be  stewed  and  put  into  the  dish  first, 
and  then  the  cutlets  round  it. 

Lamb's  Head  and  Hinge. 

This  part  is  best  from  a  house-lamb  :  but  any,  if 
soaked  in  cold  water,  will  be  white.  Boil  the  head 
separately  till  very  tender.  Have  ready  the  liver 
and  lights  three  parts  boiled  and  cut  small  :  stew 
them  in  a  little  of  the  water  in  which  they  were 
boiled,  season  and  thicken  with  flour  and  butter,  and 
serve  the  mince  round  the  head. 

Lamb's  Fry. 

Serve  it  fried  of  a  beautiful  colour,  and  with  a 
jood  deal  of  dried  or  fried  parsley  over. 


69 


Lamb's  Sweetbreads. 

Blanch  them,  and  put  them  a  little  while  into  cold 
water.  Then  put  them  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  la¬ 
dleful  of  broth,  some  pepper  and  salt,  a  small  bunch 
of  small  onions,  and  a  bl  de  of  mace  :  stir  in  it  a  bit 
of  butter  and  dour,  and  stew  half  an  hour.  Have 
ready  two  or  three  eggs  well  beaten  in  cream,  with 
a  little  minced  parsley  and  a  few  grates  of  nutmeg. 
Put  in  some  boiled  asparagus-tops  to  the  other  things. 
Do  not  let  it  boil  after  the  cream  is  in  ;  but  make  it 
hot,  and  stir  it  well  ad  the  while.  Take  great 
care  it  does  not  curdle.  Young  French  beans  or 
peas  may  be  added,  first  boiled  of  a  beautiful  colour. 

Fricasseed  Lamb-Stones. 

Skin  and  wash,  then  dry  and  flour  them  ;  fry  of  a 
beautiful  brown  in  hog’s  lard.  Lay  them  on  a  sieve 
before  the  fire  till  you  have  made  the  following 
sauce  :  Thicken  almost  half  a  pint  of  veal-gravy 
with  a  bit  of  flour  and  butter,  and  then  add  to  it  a 
slice  of  lemon,  a  large  spoonful  of  mushroom  catsup, 
a  tea-spoonful  of  lemon-pickle,  a  grate  of  nutmeg, 
and  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  well  in  two  large  spoon¬ 
fuls  of  thick  cream.  Put  this  over  the  fire,  and 
stir  it  well  till  it  is  hot,  and  looks  white  ;  but  do  not 
let  it  boil,  or  it  will  curdle.  Then  put  in  the  fry, 
and  shake  it  about  near  the  fire  for  a  minute  or  two. 
Serve  in  a  very  hot  dish  and  cover. 

Fricassee  of  Lamb-stones  and  Sweetbreads,  another 

way. 

Have  ready  s.ome  lamb-stones  blanched,  parboil¬ 
ed,  and  sliced.  Flour  two  or  three  sweetbreads; 
if  very  thick,  cut  them  in  two.  Fry  all  together, 
with  a  few  large  oysters,  of  a  fine  yellow  brown. 
Pour  the  butter  off;  and  add  a  pint  of  good  gravy; 
some  asparagus-tops  about  ah  inch  long,  a  little  nut 


70 


meg,  pepper,  and  salt,  two  shallots  shred  tine,  and 
a  glass  of  white  wine.  Simmer  ten  minutes,  then 
put  a  little  of  the  gravy  to  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
well  beaten,  and  by  degrees  mix  the  whole.  Turn 
gravy  back  into  the  pan,  and  stir  it  till  of  a  fine  thick¬ 
ness  without  boiling.  Garnish  with  lemon. 

A  very  nice  dish. 

Take  the  best  end  of  the  neck  of  lamb,  cut  it  into 
steaks,  and  chop  each  bone  so  short  as  to  make  the 
steaks  almost  round.  Egg,  and  strew  with  crumbs, 
herbs,  and  seasoning  :  fry  them  of  the  finest  brown, 
mash  some  potatoes  with  a  little  butter  and  cream, 
and  put  them  into  the  middle  of  the  dish  raised  high. 
Then  place  the  edge  of  one  steak  on  another  with 
the  small  bone  upward,  all  round  the  potatoes. 

Directions  for  dressing  Poultry  and  Game. 

All  poultry  should  be  very  carefully  picked,  eve- 
ry  plug  removed,  and  the  hair  nicely  singed. 

The  cook  must  be  careful  in  drawing  poultry  of 
all  sorts,  not  to  break  the  gall  bag,  for  no  washing 
will  take  off  the  bitter  where  it  has  touched. 

In  dressing  wild  fowl,  be  careful  to  keep  a  clear 
brisk  fire.  Let  them  be  done  of  a  fine  yellow- 
brown,  but  leave  the  gravy  in  :  the  fine  flavour  is 
lost  if  done  too  much. 

Tame  fowls  require  more  roasting,  and  are  long¬ 
er  in  heating  through  than  others.  All  sorts  should 
be  continually  basted,  that  they  may  be  served  with 
a  froth  and  appear  of  a  fine  colour. 

A  large  fowl  will  take  three  quarters  of  an  hour  j 
a  middling  one  half  an  hour,  and  a  very  small  one  or 
a  chicken,  twenty  minutes.  The  fire  must  be  very 
quick  and  clear  before  any  fowls  are  put  down.  A 
capon  will  take  from  half  an  hour  to  thirty-five  mi- 


71 


nutes,  a  goose  an  hour,  wild  ducks  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  pheasants  twenty  minutes,  a  small  turkey 
stuffed,  an  hour  and  a  quarter,  turkey-poults,  twen¬ 
ty  minutes,  grouse  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  quails,  ten 
minutes,  and  partridges  from  twenty  to  twenty-five 
minutes. 

Pigs  and  geese  require  a  brisk  fire,  and  quick 
turning.  Rabbits  must  be  well  attended  to,  and  the 
extremities  brought  to  the  quick  part  ot  the  fire,  to 
be  done  equally  with  the  backs. 

POULTRY 

To  boil  Turkey. 

Make  a  stuffing  of  bread,  herbs,  salt,  pepper,  nut¬ 
meg,  lemon-peel,  a  few  oysters  or  an  anchovy,  a  bit 
of  butter,  some  suet  and  an  egg  :  put  this  into  the 
crop,  fasten  up  the  skin,  and  boil  the  turkey  in  a 
floured  cloth  to  make  it  very  white.  Have  ready  a 
fine  oyster  sauce  made  rich  with  butter,  a  little 
cream,  and  a  spoonful  of  soy,  if  approved,  and  pour 
it  over  the  bird  ;  or  liver  and  lemon  sauce.  Hen- 
birds  are  best  for  broiling,  and  should  be  young. 

To  roast  Turkey. 

The  sinews  of  the  leg  should  be  drawn,  which¬ 
ever  way  it  is  dressed.  The  head  should  be  twist¬ 
ed  under  the  wing:  and  in  drawing  it,  take  care  not 
to  tear  the  liver,  nor  let  the  gall  touch  it. 

Put  a  stuffing  of  sausage-meat ;  or  if  sausages  are 
to  be  served  in  the  dish,  a  bread  stuffing.  As  this 
makes  a  large  addition  to  the  size  of  the  bird,  ob¬ 
serve  that  the  heat  of  the  fire  is  constantly  to  that 
part ;  for  the  breast  is  often  not  done  enough.  A 
little  strip  of  paper  should  be  put  on  the  bone,  to 
hinder  it  from  scorching  while  the  other  parts  roast. 
Bast$  well  and  froth  it  up.  Serve  with  gravy  in  the 


?  2 


dish,  and  plenty  of  bread-sauce  in  a  sauce-tureerr* 
Add  a  few  crumbs  and  a  beaten  egg,  to  the  stuffing 
of  sausage-meat. 

Pulled  Turkey. 

Divide  the  meat  of  the  breast  by  pulling  instead 
of  cutting  ;  then  warm  it  in  a  spoonf  ul  or  two  of 
white  gravy,  and  a  little  cream,  grated  nutmeg,  salt, 
and  a  little  flour  and  butter  ;  do  not  boil  it.  The 
leg  should  be  seasoned,  scored,  and  broiled,  and  put 
into  the  dish  with  the  above  round  it.  Cold  chicken 
does  as  well. 

To  boll  Fowl. 

For  boiling,  choose  those  that  are  not  black-leg¬ 
ged.  Pick  them  nicely,  singe,  wash,  and  truss  them. 
Flour  them  and  put  them  into  boiling  water.  Serve 
with  parsley  and  butter,  oyster,  lemon,  liver,  or 
celery  sauce.  If  for  dinner,  ham,  tongue  or  bacon, 
is  usually  served  to  eat  with  them  ;  as  likewise 
greens. 

To  boil  Fowl  with  Rice. 

Stew  the  fowl  very  slowly  in  some  clear  mutton- 
broth  well  skimmed  ;  and  seasoned  with  onion, 
mace,  pepper,  and  salt.  About  half an  hour  before 
it  is  ready,  putin  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  rice  well 
washed  and  soaked.  Simmer  till  tender  ;  then  strain 
it  from  the  broth,  and  .put  the  rice  on  a  seive  before 
the  fire.  Keep  the  fowl  hot,  lay  it  in  the  middle  of 
the  dish,  and  the  rice  around  it  without  the  broth. 
The  broth  will  be  very  nice  to  eat  as  such  ;  but  the 
less  liquor  the  fowl  is  done  with  the  better.  Gravy, 
or  parsley  and  butter,  for  sauce. 

Fowh  roasted. 

Serve  with  egg-sauce,  bread-sauce,  or  garnished 
with  sausages  or  scalded  parsley. 

\  large  barn-door  fowl,  well  hung,  should  be  stuf- 


fed  in  the  crop  with  sausage-meat ;  and  served  with 
gravy  in  the  dish,  and  with  bread-sauce.  The  head 
should  be  turned  under  the  wing  as  a  turkey. 

Fowl  broiled. 

Split  them  down  the  back  ;  pepper,  salt,  and 
broil.  Serve  with  mushroom-sauce. 

Davenport  Fowls. 

Hang  young  fowls  a  night ;  take  the  livers,  hearts, 
and  tenderest  parts  of  the  gizzards,  shred  very  small, 
with  half  a  handful  of  young  clary,  an  anchovy  to 
each  fowl,  an  onion,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  boil¬ 
ed  hard,  with  pepper,  salt,  and  mace  to  your  taste. 
Stuff  the  fowls  with  this,  and  sew  up  the  vents  and 
necks  quite  close,  that  the  water  may  not  get  in. 
Boil  them  in  salt  and  water  till  almost  done:  then 
drain  them  and  put  them  into  a  stewr-pan  with  but¬ 
ter  enough  to  brown  them.  Serve  them  with  fine 
melted  butter,  and  a  spoonful  of  catsup,  of  either 
sort,  in  the  dish. 

A  nice  way  to  dress  Fowl  for  a  small  Dish. 

Bone-singe,  and  wash  a  young  fowl  ;  make  a 
forcemeat  of  four  ounces  of  veal,  two  ounces  of  scra¬ 
ped  lean  of  ham,  two  ounces  of  fit  bacon,  two  hard 
yolks  of  eggs,  a  few  sweet  herbs  chopped,  two  oun¬ 
ces  of  beef-suet,  a  tea-spoonful  of  lemon-peel  minced 
quite  fine,  an  anchovy,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  very  lit¬ 
tle  Cayenne.  Beat  all  in  a  mortar,  with  a  tea-cupful 
of  crumbs,  and  the  yolks  and  whites  of  three  eggs. 
Stuff  the  inside  of  the  fowl,  and  draw  the  legs  and 
wings  inwards  ;  tie  the  neck  and  rump  close.  Stew 
the  fowl  in  a  white  gravy  ;  when  it  is  done  through 
and  tender,  add  a  large  cupful  of  cream,  and  a  bit 
of  butter  and  flour  :  and  give  it  one  boil,  and  serve  $ 
the  last  thing  add  the  squeeze  of  lemon. 

7 


74 


Fricassee  of  Chickens. 

Boil  rather  more  than  half,  in  a  small  quantity  of 
water  :  let  them  cool,  then  cut  up,  and  put  to  sim¬ 
mer  in  a  little  gravy  made  of  the  liquor  they  are 
boiled  in,  and  a  bit  of  veal  or  mutton,  onion,  mace, 
and  lemon-peel,  some  white  pepper,  and  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs.  When  quite  tender,  keep  them  hot 
while  you  thicken  the  sauce  in  the  following  man¬ 
ner  :  strain  it  oft',  and  put  it  back  into  the  sauce-pan 
with  a  little  salt,  a  scrape  of  nutmeg,  and  a  bit  of 
flour  and  butter  ;  give  it  one  boil  ;  and  when  you 
are  going  to  serve,  beat  up  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and 
add  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and  stir  them  over  the  fire; 
but  do  not  let  it  boil.  It  will  be  quite  as  good  with¬ 
out  the  egg. 

The  gravy  may  be  made  (without  any  other  meat) 
of  the  necks,  feet,  small  wing-bones,  gizzards,  and 
livers  ;  which  are  called  the  trimmings  of  the  fowl. 

To  pull  Chickens. 

Take  off  the  skin,  and  pull  the  flesh  off  the  bone 
of  a  cold  fowl  in  as  large  pieces  as  you  can  :  dredge 
it  with  flour,  and  fry  it  of  a  nice  brown  in  butter. 
Drain  the  butter  from  it ;  and  them  simmer  the  flesh 
in  a  good  gravy  well  seasoned,  and  thickened  with  a 
little  flour  and  butter.  Add  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon. 

Chicken  Currie. 

Cut  up  the  chickens  raw7,  slice  onions,  and  fry 
both  in  butter  with  great  care,  of  a  fine  light  brown, 
or  if  you  use  chickens  that  have  been  dressed,  fry 
only  the  onions.  Lay  the  joints,  cut  into  two  or 
three  pieces  each,  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a  veal  or 
mutton  gravy,  and  a  clove  or  two  of  garlic.  Simmer 
till  the  chicken  is  quite  tender.  Half  an  hour  be¬ 
fore  you'  serve  it,  rub  smooth  a  spoonful  or  twb  of 


75 


currie  powder,  a  spoonful  of  flour,  and  an  ounce  or 
butter  ;  and  add  this,  with  four  large  spoonfuls  of 
cream,  to  the  stew.  Salt  to  your  taste.  When  serv¬ 
ing,  squeeze  in  a  little  lemon. 

Slices  of  under-done  veal,  or  rabbit,  turkey,  &c, 
make  excellent  currie. 

Ducks  roasted. 

Serve  with  a  fine  gravy  :  and  stuff  one  with  sage 
and  onion,  a  dessert-spoonful  of  crumbs,  a  bit  of 
butter,  and  pepper  and  salt,  let  the  other  be  unsea¬ 
soned. 

To  boil  Ducks. 

Choose  a  fine  fat  duck  ;  salt  it  two  days,  then 
boil  it  slowly  in  a  cloth.  Serve  it  with  onion-sauce, 
but  melt  the  butter  with  milk  instead  of  water. 

To  stew  Duck. 

Half  roast  a  duck  ;  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with 
a  pint  of  beef-gravy,  a  few  leaves  of  sage  and  mint 
cut  small,  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  small  bit  of  onion 
shred  as  fine  as  possible.  Simmer  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  and  skim  clean ;  then  add  near  a  quart  ot 
green  peas.  Cover  close,  and  simmer  near  half  an 
hour  longer.  Put  in  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little 
Hour,  and  give  it  one  boil  ;  then  serve  in  one  dish. 

To  roast  Goose. 

After  it  is  picked,  the  plugs  of  the  feathers  pulled 
out  and  the  hairs  carefully  singed,  let  it  be  well 
washed  and  dried,  and  a  seasoning  put  in  of  onion, 
sage,  and  pepper  and  salt.  Fasten  it  tight  at  the 
neck  and  the  rump,  and  then  roast.  Put  it  first  at 
a  distance  from  the  fire  and  by  degrees  draw  it 
nearer.  A  slip  of  paper  should  be  skewered  on 
the  breast-bone.  Baste  it  very  well.  When  the 
breast  is  rising,  take  off  the  paper  ;  and  be  careful 


76 


to  serve  it  before  the  breast  falls,  or  it  will  be  spoil, 
ed  by  coming  flatted  to  table.  Let  a  good  gravy 
be  sent  in  the  dish. 

Gravy  and  apple-sauce  :  goosberry-sauce  for  a 
green  goose. 

To  stew  Giblets. 

Do  them  as  will  be  directed  for  giblet-pie,  (under 
the  head  Pies  ;)  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  a  very  small  piece  of  mace.  Before  serving, 
give  them  one  boil  with  a  cup  of  cream,  and  a  piece 
of  butter  rubbed  in  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 

Pigeons 

May  be  dressed  in  so  many  ways,  that  they  are 
very  useful.  The  good  flavour  of  them  depends 
very  much  on  their  being  cropped  and  drawn  as 
soon  as  killed. — No  other  bird  requires  so  much 
washing. 

To  stew  pigeons. 

Take  care  that  they  are  quite  fresh,  and  carefully 
chopped,  drawn,  and  washed  ;  then  soak  them  half 
an  hour.  In  the  mean  time  cut  a  hard  white  cab¬ 
bage  in  slices  (as  if  for  pickling)  into  water ;  drain 
it,  and  then  boil  it  in  milk  and  water:  drain  it 
again,  and  lay  some  of  it  at  the  bottom  of  a  stew- 
pan.  Put  the  pigeons  upon  it,  but  first  season  them 
well  with  pepper  and  salt  ;  and  cover  them  with 
the  remainder  of  the  cabbage.  Add  a  little  broth, 
and  stew  gently  till  the  pigeons  are  tender  :  ther 
put  among  them  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  cream, 
and  a  piece  of  butter  and  flour,  for  thickening. 
After  a  boil  or  two,  serve  the  birds  in  the  middle, 
and  the  cabbage  placed  round  them. 

To  broil  Pigeons. 

After  cleaning,  split  the  backs,  pepper  and  salt 
‘hem,  and  broil  them  very  nicely  ;  pour  over  them 


77 


either  stewed  or  pickled  mushrooms  in  melted  but¬ 
ter,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

Roast  Pigeons 

Should  be  stuffed  with  parsley,  either  cut  or 
whole,  and  seasoned  within.  Serve  with  paisley 
and  butter.  Peas  or  asparagus  should  be  dressed 
to  eat  with  them. 

Pigeons  in  Jelly. 

Save  some  of  the  liquor  in  which  a  knuckle  of 
veal  has  been  boiled,  or  boil  a  calf’s  or  neat’s  foot, 
put  the  broth  into  a  pan  with  a  blade  of  mace,  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  some  white  pepper,  lemon 
peel,  a  slice  of  lean  bacon,  and  the  pigeons.  Bake 
them  and  let  them  stand  to  be  cold.  Season  them 
as  you  like,  before  baking.  When  done,  take 
them  out  of  the  liquor,  cover  them  close  to  pre¬ 
serve  the  colour,  and  clear  the  jelly  by  boiling  with 
the  whites  of  two  eggs  ;  then  strain  it  through  a 
thick  cloth  dipped  in  boiling  water,  and  put  into  a 
sieve.  The  fat  must  be  perfectly  removed,  before 
it  be  cleared.  Put  the  jelly  over  and  round  them 
rough. 

Larks  and  other  small  birds. 

Draw  and  spit  them  on  a  bird-spit ;  tie  this  on 
another  spit,  and  roast  them.  Baste  gently  with 
butter,  and  strew  bread-crumbs  upon  them  till  half 
done  :  brown  and  serve  with  fried  crumbs  round. 
GAME,  &c. 

To  keep  Game,  4*c. 

Game  ought  not  to  be  thrown  away  even  when  it 
has  been  kept  a  very  long  time  ;  for  when  it  seems 
to  be  spoiled,  it  may  often  be  made  lit  for  eating,  by 
nicely  cleaning  it,  and  washing  with  vinegar  and  wa¬ 
ter.  If  there  is  danger  of  birds  not  keeping,  draw, 
crop,  and  pick  them  ;  then  wash  in  two  or  three 

7* 


78 


waters,  and  rub  them  with  salt.  Have  ready  a  large 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  plunge  them  into  it 
one  by  one,  drawing  them  up  and  down  by  the  leg®, 
that  the  water  may  pass  through  them.  Let  them 
stay  live  or  six  minutes  in  ;  then  hang  them  up  in  a 
cold  place.  When  drained  pepper  and  salt  the  in¬ 
sides  well.  Before  roasting,  wash  them  well. 

The  most  delicate  birds,  even  grouse,  may  be 
preserved  thus.  Those  that  live  by  suction  cannot 
be  done  this  way,  as  they  are  never  drawn  ;  and 
perhaps  the  heat  might  make  them  worse,  as  the 
water  could  not  pass  through  them,  but  they  bear 
being  high.  Lumps  of  charcoal  put  about  birds  and 
meat  will  preserve  them  from  taint,  and  restore 
what  is  spoiling. 

Pheasants  and  Partridges. 

Roast  them  as  turkey,  and  serve  with  a  fine  gravy 
(into  which  put  a  very  small  bit  of  garlic,)  and 
bread-sauce.  When  cold,  they  may  be  made  into 
excellent  patties,  but  their  flavour  should  not  be 
overpowered  by  lemon. 

A  very  cheap  way  of  potting  Birds. 

When  baked  and- grown  cold,  cut  them  into  pro¬ 
per  pieces  for  helping,  pack  them  close  into  a  large 
potting  pan,  and  (if  possible,)  leave  no  spaces  to  re¬ 
ceive  the  butter  Cover  them  with  butter,  and 
one  third  part  less  will  be  wanted  than  when  the 
birds  are  done  whole.  The  butter  that  has  covered 
potted  things  will  serve  for  basting,  or  for  paste  or 
meat  pies. 

To  clarify  Butter  for  potted  things. 

Put  it  into  a  sauce  boat,  and  set  that  over  the  tire 
in  a  stew-pan  that  has  a  little  water  in.  When  melt¬ 
ed,  take  care  not  to  pour  the  milky  parts  over  the? 
the  potted  things  ;  they  will  sink  to  the  bottom. 


79 


To  pot  Moor  Game. 

Pick,  singe,  and  wash  the  birds  nicely  :  then  dry 
them  :  and  season,  inside  and  out,  pretty  high,  with 
pepper,  mace,  nutmeg,  alspice,  and  salt.  Pack 
them  in  as  small  a  pot  as  will  hold  them,  cover  them 
with  butter,  and  bake  in  a  very  slow  oven.  When 
cold  take  off  the  butter,  dry  them  from  the  gravy, 
and  put  one  bird  into  each  pot,  which  should  just 
fit.  Add  as  much  more  butter  as  will  cover  them, 
but  take  care  that  it  does  not  oil.  The  best  way  to 
melt  it  is,  by  warm.ag  it  in  a  basin  set  in  a  bowl  of 
hot  water. 

Grouse. 

Roast  them  like  fowls,  but  the  head  is  to  be 
twisted  under  the  wing.  They  must  not  be  over¬ 
done.  Serve  with  a  rich  gravy  in  the  dish,  and 
bread-sauce.  The  sauce  for  wild  fowl,  as  will  be 
described  hereafter  under  the  head  of  Sauces,  may 
be  used  instead  of  common  gravy. 

To  Roast  Wild  Fowl. 

The  flavour  is  best  preserved  without  stuffing. 
Put  pepper,  salt,  and  a  piece  of  butter  into  each. 

Wild  fowl  require  much  less  dressing  than  tame  : 
they  should  be  served  of  a  fine  colour,  and  well 
frothed  up.  A  rich  brown  gravy  should  be  sent  in 
the  dish  :  and  when  the  breast  is  cut  into  slices,  be¬ 
fore  taking  off  the  bone,  a  squeeze  of  lemon,  with 
pepper  and  salt,  is  a  great  improvement  to  the  fla¬ 
vour. 

To  take  off  the  fishy  taste  which  wild  fowl  some-’ 
times  have,  put  an  onion,  salt,  and  hot  water  into  the. 
dripping  pan,  and  baste  them  for  the  first  ten  mi¬ 
nutes  with  this  ;  then  take  away  the  pan,  and  baste 
Constantly  with  butter. 


80 


Wild  Ducks,  Teal,  Widgeon,  Dun-birds }4’C. 

Should  be  taken  up  with  the  gravy  in.  Baste 
them  with  butter,  and  sprinkle  a  little  salt  before 
they  are  taken  up,  put  a  good  gravy  upon  them,  and 
serve  with  shallot  sauce,  in  a  boat. 

Woodcocks,  Snipes ,  and  Quails, 

Keep  good  several  days.  Roast  them  without 
drawing,  and  serve  on  toast.  Butter  only  should 
be  eaten  with  them,  as  gravy  takes  off  the  fine  fla¬ 
vour.  The  thigh  and  back  are  esteemed  the  most. 

Ruff's  and  Ree :■ 

Are  skewered  as  quails  ;  put  baro  of  bacon  over 
them,  and  roast  them  about  ten  minutes.  Serve 
with  a  good  gravy  in  the  dish. 

To  dress  Plovers. 

Roast  the  green  ones  in  the  same  way  as  wood¬ 
cocks  and  quails,  (see  above,)  without  drawing ; 
and  serve  on  a  toast.  Gray  plovers  may  be  either 
roasted,  or  stewed  with  gravy,  herbs,  and  spice. 

Plover's  Eggs 

Are  a  nice  and  fashionable  dish.  Boil  them  ten 
minutes,  and  serve  either  hot  or  cold  on  a  napkin. 

To  roast  Ortolans. 

Pick  and  singe,  but  do  not  draw  them.  Tie  on  a 
bird-spit,  and  roast  them.  Some  persons  like  bacon 
in  slices  tied  between  them,  but  the  taste  of  it  spoils 
the  flavour  of  the  ortolan.  Cover  them  with  crumbs 
of  bread. 

Guinea  and  Pea  Fowl 

Eat  much  like  pheasants.  Dress  then  in  the 
same  way. 

Rabbits 

May  be  eaten  various  ways,  as  follow  : 

Roasted  with  stuffing  and  gravy,  or  without  stuf- 


81 


ting  ;  with  sauce  of  the  liver  and  parsley  chopped 
in  melted  butter,  pepper,  and  salt  ;  or  larded. 

Boiled  and  smothered  with  onion-sauce  :  the  but¬ 
ter  to  be  melted  with  milk  instead  of  water. 

Fried  in  joints,  with  dried  or  fried  parsley.  The 
game  liver-sauce,  this  way  also. 

Fricasseed,  as  before  directed,  for  chickens. 

In  a  pie,  as  chickens,  with  forcemeat,  &c.  In 
this  way  they  are  excellent  when  young. 

Potted. 

To  pot  Rabbits. 

Cut  up  two  or  three  youn-;  but  full-grown  ones, 
and  take  the  leg  bones  off  at  the  thigh  ;  pack  them 
a9  closely  as  possibly  in  a  small  pan,  after  seasoning 
them  with  pepper,  mace,  Cayenne,  salt,  and  alspice, 
all  in  very  fine  powder.  Make  the  top  as  smooth 
as  you  can.  Keep  out  the  heads  and  the  carcasses, 
but  take  off  the  meat  about  the  neck.  Put  a  good 
deal  of  butter  and  bake  the  whole  gently.  Keep  it 
two  days  in  the  pan  ;  then  shift  it  into  small  pots, 
adding  butter.  The  livers  also  should  be  added,  as. 
they  eat  well. 


SOUPS  AND  GRAVIES. 

General  directions  respecting  Soups  and  Gravies . 

When  there  i9  any  fear  of  gravy-meat  being  spoil¬ 
ed  before  it  be  wanted,  season  well,  and  fry  it  light¬ 
ly,  which  will  preserve  it  two  days  longer  ;  but  the 
gravy  is  best  when  the  juices  are  fresh. 

When  soups  or  gravies  are  to  be  put  by,  let  them 
be  changed  every  day  into  fresh  scalded  pans. 
Whatever  has  vegetables  boiled  in  it,  is  apt  to  turn 
sour  sooner  than  the  juices  of  meat.  Never  keep 
any  gravy,  &c.  in  metal. 


82 


When  fat  remains  on  any  soup,  a  tea-cupful  of 
flour  and  water  mixed  quite  smooth,  and  boiled  in, 
will  take  it  off. 

If  richness  or  greater  consistency,  be  wanted,  a 
good  lump  of  butter  mixed  with  flour,  and  boiled  in 
the  soup,  will  give  either  of  these  qualities. 

Long  boiling  is  necessary  to  give  the  full  flavour 
of  the  ingredients,  therefore  time  should  be  allowed 
for  soups  and  gravies  ;  and  they  are  best  if  made  the 
day  before  they  are  wanted. 

Soups  and  gravies  are  far  better  when  the  meat  is 
put  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan,  and  stewed,  and  the 
herbs,  roots,  &c.  with  butter,  than  when  water  is 
put  to  the  meat  at  first  ;  and  the  gravy  that  is  drawn 
from  the  meat  should  be  almost  dried  up  before  the 
water  is  put  to  it.  Do  not  use  the  sediment  of  gra-* 
vies,  &c.  that  have  stood  to  be  cold.  When  onions 
are  strong,  boil  a  turnip  with  them,  if  for  sauce  : 
this  will  make  them  mild. 

If  soups  or  gravies  are  too  weak,  do  not  cover 
them  in  boiling,  that  the  watery  particles  may  eva¬ 
porate. 

A  clear  jelly  of  Cow-heels  is  very  useful  to  keep 
in  the  house,  being  a  great  improvement  to  soups 
and  gravies. 

SOUPS,  ETC. 

Scotch  Mutton  Broth. 

Soak  a  neck  of  mutton  in  water  for  an  hour  ;  cut 
off  the  scrag,  and  put  it  into  a  stew-pan  with  two 
quarts  of  water.  As  soon  as  it  boils,  skim  it  well, 
and  then  simmer  it  an  hour  and  a  half  ;  then  take 
the  best  end  of  the  mutton,  cut  it  into  pieces,  two 
bones  in  each,  take  some  of  the  fat  off,  and  put 
as  many  as  you  think  proper :  skim  the  moment 


83 


ment  the  fresh  meat  boils  up,  and  every  quarter  of 
an  hour  afterwards.  Have  ready  four  or  five  car¬ 
rots,  the  same  number  of  turnips,  and  three  onions, 
all  cut,  but  not  small  ;  and  put  them  in  soon  enough 
to  get  quite  tender  ;  add  four  large  spoonfuls  of 
Scotch  barley,  first  wetted  with  cold  water.  The 
meat  should  stew  three  hours.  Salt  to  taste,  and 
serve  all  together.  Twenty  minutes  before  serving, 
put  in  some  chopped  parsley. 

Veal  Broth. 

Stew  a  small  knuckle  in  about  three ‘quarts  of 
water,  two  ounces  of  rice,  a  little  salt,  and  a  blade 
of  mace,  till  the  liquor  is  half  wasted  away. 

Colouring  for  Soups  or  Gravies. 

Put  four  ounces  of  lump-sugar,  a  gill  of  water, 
and  half  an  ounce  of  the  finest  butter,  into  a  small 
tosser,  and  set  it  over  a  gentle  fire.  Stir  it  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  till  of  a  bright  brown.  Then  add 
half  a  pint  of  water  ;  boil,  skim,  and  when  cold,  bot¬ 
tle  and  cork  it  close.  Add  to  soup  or  gravy  as  much 
of  this  as  will  give  a  proper  colour. 

A  clear  brown  Stock  for  Gravy-Soup,  or  Gravy. 

Put  a  knuckle  of  veal,  a  pound  of  lean  beef,  and  a 
pound  of  the  lean  of  a  gammon  of  bacon,  all  sliced, 
into  a  stew-pan  with  two  or  three  scraped  carrots, 
two  onions,  two  turnips,  two  heads  of  celery  sliced, 
and  two  quarts  of  water.  Stew  the  meat  quite  ten¬ 
der,  but  do  not  let  it  brown.  When  thus  prepared, 
it  will  serve  either  for  soup,  or  brown  or  white 
gravy:  if  for  brown  gravy,  put  some  of  the  above 
colouring,  and  boil  a  few  minutes. 

An  excellent  white  Soup. 

Take  a  scrag  of  mutton,  a  knuckle  of  veal,  after 
cutting  off  as  much  meat  as  will  make  collops,  two 


84 


or  three  shank  bones  of  mutton  nicely  cleaned,  and 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  very  fine  undressed  lean 
gammon  of  bacon  :  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a 
piece  of  fresh  lemon-peel,  two  or  three  onions, 
three  blades  of  mace,  and  a  dessert-spoonful  of  white 
pepper  ;  boil  all  in  three  quarts  of  water,  till  the 
meat  fall  quite  to  pieces.  Next  day  take  off  the  fat, 
clear  the  jelly  from  the  sediment,  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  ofthe  nicest  tin.  if  macaroni  is  used,  it 
should  be  added  soon  enough  to  get  perfectly  tender, 
after  soaking  in  cold  water.  Vermicelli  may  be  ad¬ 
ded  after  the  thickening,  as  it  requires  less  time  to 
do.  Have  ready  the  thickening  which  is  to  be  made 
as  follows  : 

Blanch  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  and 
beat  them  to  a  paste  in  a  marble  mortar,  with  a 
spoonful  of  water  to  prevent  their  oiling  ;  mince  a 
large  slice  of  dressed  veal  or  chicken,  and  beat  it 
with  a  piece  of  stale  white  bread  ;  to  all  this  add  a 
pint  of  thick  cream,  a  bit  of  fresh  lemon-peel,  and 
blade  of  mace,  in  the  finest  powder.  Boil  it  a  few 
minutes  ;  add  to  it  a  pint  of  soup,  and  strain  and 
pulp  it  through  a  coarse  sieve  :  this  thickening  is 
then  fit  for  putting  to  the  rest,  which  should  boil  for 
half  an  hour  afterwards.  ^ 

A  plainer  white  Soup. 

Two  or  three  pints  of  soup  may  be  made  of  a 
small  knuckle  of  veal,  with  seasoning  as  directed  in 
the  last  article  ;  and  both  served  together,  with  the 
addition  of  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  good  milk.  Tw« 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  a  little  ground  rice,  will 
give  it  a  proper  thickness. 

Giblet  Soup 

Scald  and  clean  three  or  four  sets  of  goose  OT 
duck  giblets  ;  set  them  to  stew,  with  a  pound  ol 


gravy-beef’,  scrag  of  mutton,  or  the  bone  of  a  knuc 
kle  of  veal ;  an  ox-tail,  or  some  shanks  of  mutton  , 
with  three  onions,  a  large  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a 
tea-spoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  a  large  spoonful 
of  salt.  Put  five  pints  of  water,  and  simmer  till  the 
gizzards,  (which  must  be  each  in  four  pieces,)  are 
quite  tender  :  skim  nicely,  and  add  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  cream,  two  tea-spoonfuls  of  mushroom  pow¬ 
der,  and  an  ounce  of  butter  mixed  with  a  dessert¬ 
spoonful  of  flour.  Let  it  boil  a  few  minutes,  and 
serve  with  the  giblets.  It  may  be  seasoned,  instead 
of  cream,  with  two  glasses  of  sherry  or  Madeira,  a 
large  spoonful  of  catsup,  and  some  Cayenne.  When 
in  the  tureen,  add  salt. 

Macaroni  Soup . 

Boil  a  pound  of  the  best  macaroni  in  a  quart  of 
good  stock  till  quite  tender  ;  then  take  out  half,  and 
put  it  into  another  stew-pot.  To  the  remainder 
add  some  more  stock,  and  boil  it  till  you  can  pulp 
all  the  macaroni  through  a  fine  sieve.  Then  add 
together  that,  the  two  liquors,  a  pint  or  more  of 
cream,  boiling  hot,  the  macaroni  that  was  first  taken 
out,  and  half  a  pound  of  grated  Parmesan  cheese  ; 
make  it  hot,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Serve  it  with  the 
crust  of  a  French  roll  cut  into  the  size  of  a  shilling. 

Old  Peas  Soup. 

Save  the  water  of  boiling  pork  or  beef ;  and  if 
too  salt,  put  as  much  fresh  water  to  it ;  or  use  fresh 
water  entirely,  with  roast  beef  bones,  a  ham  or  gam¬ 
mon-bone,  or  an  anchovy  or  two  Simmer  these 
with  some  good  whole  or  split  peas  ;  the  smaller 
the  quantity  of  water  at  first,  the  better.  Simmer 
till  the  peas  will  pulp  through  a  culander :  then 
set  the  pulp,  and  more  of  the  liquor  that  boded 

*  O 


86 


the  peas,  with  two  carrots  ;  a  turnip,  a  leek,  and  a 
stick  of  celery  cut  into  bits,  to  stew  till  all  is  quite 
tender.  The  last  requires  less  time  ;  an  hour  will 
do  for  it. 

When  ready,  put  fried  bread  cut  into  dice,  dried 
mint  rubbed  tine,  pepper,  and  (if  wanted)  salt,  into 
the  tureen. 

Green  Peas  Soup. 

In  shelling  the  peas  divide  the  old  from  the 
young  ;  put  the  old  ones  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  a 
pint  of  water,  the  outside  leaves  of  a  lettuce  or  two, 
two  onions,  pepper  and  salt,  to  stew  till  you  can 
pulp  the  peas  and  when  you  have  done  so,  put  to 
the  liquor  that  stewed  them  some  more  water, 
hearts  and  tender  stalks  of  the  the  lettuces,  the 
young  peas,  a  handful  of  spinach  cut  small,  and  salt, 
and  pepper  to  relish  properly,  and  stew  till  quite 
soft.  If  the  soup  is  too  thin,  or  not  rich  enough, 
either  of  these  faults  may  be  removed  by  adding  an 
ounce  or  two  of  butter,  mixed  with  a  spoonful  of 
rice  or  wheat-flour,  and  boil  with  it  half  an  hour. 
Before  serving,  boil  some  green  mint  shred  fine  iu 
the  soup. 

When  there  is  plenty  of  vegetables,  no  meat  is 
necessary  ;  but  if  meat  be  preferred,  a  pig’s  foot 
or  ham-bone  may  be  boiled  with  the  old  peas,  which 
is  called  the  stock.  More  butter  than  is  mention¬ 
ed  above  may  be  used  with  advantage,  if  the  soup 
is  required  to  be  very  rich. 

When  peas  first  come  in,  or  are  very  young, 
the  stock  may  be  made  of  the  shells  washed,  and 
boiled  till  they  will  pulp  with  the  above ;  more 
thickening  will  then  be  wanted. 

Gravy  Soups. 

Wash  and  soak  a  leg  of  beef :  break  the  bone  and 


8? 


set  it  on  fire  with  a  gallon  of  water,  a  large  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs,  two  large  onions  sliced  and  fried  a 
fine  brown,  (but  not  burnt,)  two  blades  of  mace, 
three  cloves,  twenty  berries  of  alspice,  and  forty 
black  peppers.  Stew  till  the  soup  is  as  rich  as  you 
choose  ;  then  take  out  the  meat,  which  will  be  fit 
for  the  servants’  table  with  a  little  of  the  gravy. 
Next  day  take  off  the  cake  of  fat  ;  which  will  serve 
for  basting,  or  for  common  pie-crust.  Have  ready 
such  vegetables  as  you  choose  to  serve.  Cut  car¬ 
rots,  turnips,  and  celery,  small ;  and  simmer  till 
tender  :  some  people  do  not  like  them  to  be  sent  to 
table,  only  the  flavour  of  them. — Boil  vermicelli  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  ;  and  add  to  it  a  large  spoonful 
of  soy  and  one  of  mushroom  catsup.  A  French 
roll  should  be  made  hot,  put  into  the  soup  till  moist 
through,  and  served  in  the  tureen. 

Carrot  Soup. 

Put  some  beef-bones,  with  four  quarts  of  the  li¬ 
quor  in  which  a  leg  of  mutton  or  beef  has  been  boil¬ 
ed,  two  large  onions,  a  turnip,  pepper,  and  salt,  into 
a  sauce-pan,  and  stew  for  three  hours.  Have  ready 
six  large  carrots  scraped  and  cut  thin  :  strain  the 
soup  on  them,  and  stew  them  till  soft  enough  to 
pulp  through  a  hair  sieve  or  coarse  cloth  :  then  boil 
the  pulp  with  the  soup,  which  is  to  be  as  thick  as 
peas-soup.  Use  two  woode-n  spoons  to  rub  the  car¬ 
rots  through.  Make  the  soup  the  day  before  it  is  to 
be  used.  Add  Cayenne.  Pulp  only  the  red  part  of 
the  carrot,  and  not  the  yellow. 

Onion  Soup. 

Into  the  water  that  has  boiled  a  leg  or  neck  of 
mutton,  put  carrots,  turnips,  and  (if  you  have  one) 
a  shank -bone  and  simmer  two  hours.  Strain  it  on 
six  onions,  first  sliced  and  fried  of  a  light  brown  ; 


88 


simmer  three  hours,  skim  it  carefully,  and  serve. 
Put  into  it  a  little  roll,  or  fried  bread. 

Spinach  Soup. 

Shred  two  handfuls  of  spinach,  a  turnip,  two 
onions,  a  head  of  celery,  two  carrots,  and  a  little 
thyme  and  parsley.  Put  all  into  a  stew-pot,  with  a 
bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  and  a  pint  of  broth, 
or  the  water  in  which  meat  has  been  boiled  ;  stew 
till  the  vegetables  are  quite  tender ;  work  them 
through  a  coarse  cloth  or  sieve  with  a  spoon  ;  then 
to  the  pulp  of  the  vegetables,  and  liquor,  put  a  quart 
of  fresh  water,  pepper,  and  salt,  and  boil  all  together. 
Have  ready  some  suet  dumplings  the  size  of  a  wal¬ 
nut  ;  and  before  you  put  the  soup  into  the  tureen, 
put  them  into  it.  The  suet  must  not  be  shred  too 
line  ;  and  take  care  that  it  is  quite  fresh. 

Scotch  Leek  Soup. 

Put  the  water  that  has  boiled  a  leg  of  mutton  into 
a  stew-pot,  with  a  quantity  of  chopped  leeks,  and 
pepper  and  salt  :  simmer  them  an  hour  ;  then  mix 
some  oat-meal,  with  a  little  cold  water  quite  smooth, 
pour  it  into  the  soup,  set  it  on  a  slow  part  of  the  fire, 
and  let  it  simmer  gently  ;  but  take  care  that  it  does 
not  burn  to  the  bottom. 

Ox-Rump  Soup. 

Two  or  three  rumps  of  beef  will  make  it  stronger 
than  a  much  larger  quantity  of  meat  without  these, 
and  form  a  very  nourishing  soup.  Make  it  like 
gravy  soup,  and  give  it  what  llavour  or  thickening 
you  like. 

Hessian  Soup  and  Ragout. 

Clean  the  root  of  a  neat’s  tongue  very  nicely,  and 
half  an  ox’s  head,  with  salt  and  water,  and  soak 
them  afterwards  in  water  only.  Then  stew  them 
in  five  or  six  quarts  of  water,  till  tolerably  tender. 


69 


Let  the  soup  stand  to  be  cold ;  take  off  the  fat, 
which  will  make  good  paste  for  hot  meat-pies,  or 
will  do  to  baste.  Put  to  the  soup  a  pint  of  split 
peas,  or  a  quart  of  white  ones,  twelve  carrots,  six 
turnips,  six  potatoes,  six  large  onions,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  and  two  heads  of  celer}'.  Simmer 
them  without  the  meat,  till  the  vegetables  are  done 
enough  to  pulp  with  the  peas  through  a  sieve  :  and 
the  soup  will  then  be  about  the  thickness  of  cream. 
Season  it  with  pepper,  s--.lt,  mace,  alspice,  a  clove 
or  two,  and  a  little  Cayenne,  all  in  fine  powder.  If 
the  peas  are  bad,  the  soup  may  not  be  thick  enough  ; 
then  boil  in  it  a  slice  of  roll,  and  put  it  through  the 
colander  ;  or  add  a  little  rice-fiour,  mixing  it  by  de¬ 
grees. 

For  the  Ragout,  cut  the  nicest  part  of  the  head, 
the  kernels,  and  part  of  the  fat  of  the  root  of  the 
tongue,  into  small  thick  pieces.  Rub  these  with 
some  of  the  above  seasoning,  as  you  put  them  into 
a  quart  of  the  liquor,  kept  out  for  that  p-arpose  be¬ 
fore  the  vegetables  were  added  ;  flour  well,  and 
simmer  them  till  nicely  tender.  Then  put  a  little 
mushroom  and  walnut  catsup,  a  little  soy,  a  glass  of 
port  wine,  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  made  mustard  ;  and 
boil  all  up  together  before  served.  If  for  company, 
small  eggs  and  forcemeat-balls. 

This  way  furnishes  an  excellent  soup  and  a  ra¬ 
gout  at  a  small  expense,  and  they  are  not  co-mmon 
The  other  part  will  warm  for  the  family. 

Soup  a  la  sap. 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  grated  potatoes,  a  pound  of 
beef  sliced  thin,  a  pint  of  gray  peas,  an  onion,  and 
three  ounces  of  rice,  in  six  pints  of  water,  to  five  ; 
strain  it  through  a  colander  :  then  pulp  the  peas  to 
it,  and  turn  it  into  a  sauce-pan  again,  with  two  heads 

8* 


90 

of celery  sliced.  Stew  it  tender,  and  add  pepper 
and  salt ;  and  when  you  serve  add  also  fried  bread. 

Portable  Soup. 

Boil  one  or  two  knuckles  of  veal,  one  or  two  shins 
of  beef,  and  three  pounds  of  beef,  in  as  much  water 
only  as  will  cover  them.  Take  the  marrow  out  of 
the  bones  :  put  any  sort  of  spice  you  like,  and  three 
large  onions.  When  the  mentis  done  to  rags,  strain 
it  off,  and  put  it  into  a  very  cold  place.  When  cold 
take  off  the  cake  of  fat,  (which  will  make  crusts  for 
servants’  pies,)  put  the  soup  in  a  double-bottomed 
tin  sauce-pan,  and  set  it  on  a  pretty  quick  fire,  but 
do  not  let  it  burn.  It  must  boil  fast  and  uncovered, 
and  be  stirred  constantly,  for  eight  hours.  Put  it 
into  a  pan,  and  let  it  stand  in  a  cold  place  a  day  ; 
then  pour  it  into  a  round  soup  china-dish,  and  set 
the  dish  into  a  stew-pan  of  boiling  water  on  a  stove, 
and  let  it  boil,  and  be  now  and  then  stirred,  till  the 
soup  is  thick  and  ropy,  then  it  is  done  enough. 
Pour  it  into  the  little  round  part  at  the  bottom  of 
cups  or  basins  turned  upside  down,  to  form  cakes  ; 
and  when  cold  turn  them  out  on  flannel  to  dry. 
Keep  them  in  tin  canisters.  When  they  are  to  be 
used,  melt  them  in  boiling  water  ;  and  if  you  wish 
the  flavour  of  herbs,  or  any  thing  else,  boil  it  first, 
strain  off  the  water,  and  melt  the  soup  in  it. 

This  is  very  convenient  in  the  country,  or  at  sea, 
where  fresh  meat  is  not  always  at  hand ;  as  by  this 
means  a  basin  of  soup  may  be  made  in  fifteen  minutes. 

Soup  Maigre. 

Melt  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  stew-pan,  shake 
it  round,  and  throw  in  six  middling  onions  sliced. — 
Shake  the  pan  well  for  two  or  three  minutes  ;  then 
put  to  it  five  heads  of  celery,  two  handfuls  of  spi¬ 
nach,  two  cabbage-lettuces  cut  small,  and  some  pars* 


91 


ley.  Shake  the  pan  well  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  pat 
in  two  quarts  of  water,  some  crusts  of  bread,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  beaten  pepper,  three  or  four  blades  of 
mace  ;  and  if  you  have  any  white  beet  leaves,  add  a 
a  large  handful  of  them  cut  small. 

Boil  gently  an  hour.  Just  before  serving  beat  in 
two  yolks  of  eggs  and  a  large  spoonful  of  vinegar. 

Stock  for  brown  or  white  Fish  Soups. 

Take  a  pound  of  skate,  four  or  five  flounders,  and 
two  pounds  of  eels.  Clean  them  well  and  cut  them 
into  pieces  :  cover  them  with  water ;  and  season 
them  with  mace,  pepper,  salt,  an  onion  stuck  with 
cloves,  a  head  of  celery,  two  pai’sley-roots  sliced, 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs.  Simmer  an  hour  and 
a  half  closely  covered,  and  then  strain  it  off  for 
use.  If  for  brown  soup,  first  fry  the  fish  brown  in 
butter,  and  then  do  as  above.  It  will  not  keep  more 
than  two  or  three  days. 

Eel  Soup. 

Take  three  pounds  of  small  eels;  put  to  them 
wo  quarts  of  water,  a  crust  of  bread,  three  blades 
of  mace,  some  whole  pepper,  an  onion,  and  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs  :  cover  them  close,  and  stew  till  the 
fish  i3  quite  broken  :  then  strain  it  off.  Toast  some 
bread,  cut  it  into  dice,  and  pour  the  soup  on  it  boil¬ 
ing.  A  piece  of  carrot  may  be  put  in  at  first.  The 
soup  will  be  as  rich  as  if  made  of  meat.  A  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour 
rubbed  smooth  in  it,  is  a  great  improvement. 

Skate  Soup. 

Make  it  of  the  stock  fish  for  soup  (as  directed 
above)  with  an  ounce  of  vermicelli  boiled  in  it,  a  lit¬ 
tle  before  it  is  served.  Then  add  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  beaten  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Stir  it 
near,  but  not  on  the  fire.  Serve  it  with  a  small 


92 


French  roll  made  hot  in  a  Dutch  oven  and  then 
soaked  in  the  soup  an  hour. 

Excellent  Lobster  Soup 

Take  the  meat  from  the  claws,  bodies,  and  tails, 
of  six  small  lobsters  :  take  away  the  brown  fur,  and 
the  bag  in  the  head  :  beat  the  fins,  chine,  and  small 
claws  in  a  morter.  Boil  it  very  gently  in  two  quarts 
of  water,  with  the  crumb  of  a  French  roll,  some 
white  pepper,  salt,  two  anchovies,  a  large  on-ion, 
sweet  herbs,  and  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  till  you  have 
extracted  the  goodness  of  them  all.  Strain  it  off. — 
Beat  the  spawn  in  a  mortar,  with  a  bit  of  butter,  a 
quarter  of  a  nutmeg  and  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour  ;  mix 
it  with  a  quart  of  cream.  Cut  the  tails  into  pieces, 
and  give  them  a  boil  up  with  the  cream  and  soup. — 
Serve  with  forcemeat  balls  made  of  the  remainder 
of  the  lobster,  mace,  pepper,  salt ;  a  few  crumbs, 
and  an  egg  or  two.  Let  the  balls  be  made  up  with  a 
bit  of  flour,  and  heated  in  the  soup. 

Craw  Jish  or  Prawn  Soup. 

Boil  six  whitings,  and  a  large  eel  (or  the  eel  and 
half  a  thornback,  well  cleaned,)  with  as  much  wa¬ 
ter  as  will  cover  them  ;  skim  them  clean,  and  put 
in  whole  pepper,  mace,  ginger,  parsley,  an  onion, 
a  little  thyme,  and  three  cloves.  Boil  to  a  mash. 
Pick  fifty  craw-fish,  or  a  hundred  prawns  ;  pound 
the  shells  and  a  little  roll  ;  but  first  boil  them  with 
a  little  water,  vinegar,  salt,  and  herbs  :  put  this  li¬ 
quor  over  the  shells  in  a  sieve  ;  then  pour  the  other 
soup  clear  from  the  sediment.  Chop  a  lobster, 
and  add  this  to  it,  with  a  quart  of  good  beef-gravy  ; 
add  also  the  tails  of  the  craw-fish  or  the  prawns,  and 
some  flour  and  butter  ;  and  season  as  may  be  liked, 
if  not  high  enough. 


93 


Oyster  Soup. 

Take  two  quarts  of  fish  stock,  beat  the  yolks  of 
ten  hard  eggs,  and  the,  hard  part  of  two  quarts  of 
oysters,  in  a  mortar,  and  add  this  to  the  stock* 
Simmer  it  all  for  half  an  hour  ;  then  strain  it  off  and 
put  it  and  the  oysters  (cleared  of  the  beards,  and 
nicely  washed,)  into  the  soup,  Simmer  five  mi¬ 
nutes  ;  have  ready  the  yolks  of  six  raw  eggs  well 
beaten,  and  add  them  to  the  soup.  Stir  it  all  well 
one  way,  on  toe  side  of  the  fire,  till  it  is  thick  and 
smooth,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Serve  all  together. 

Oyster  Mouth  Soup. 

Make  a  rich  mutton  broth  with  two  large  onions, 
three  blades  of  mace,  and  black  pepper.  When 
strained,  pour  it  on  a  hundred  and  fifty  oysters, 
without  the  beards,  and  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour.  Sijnmer  gently  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and 
serve. 

GRAVIES. 

General  Directions  respecting  Gravies. 

Gravy  may  be  made  quite  as  good  of  the  skirts  ©f 
beef  and  the  kidney,  as  of  any  other  meat  prepared 
in  the  same  way. 

An  ox-kidney,  or  milt,  makes  good  gravy,  cut  all 
to  pieces,  and  prepared  as  other  meats  ;  and  so  will 
the  shank-end  of  mutton  that  has  been  dressed,  if 
much  be  not  wanted. 

The  shank-bones  of  mutton  are  a  great  improve¬ 
ment  to  the  richness  of  grav}r,  but  first  soak  them 
well,  and  scour  them  clean. 

Taragon  gives  the  flavour  of  French  cookery,  and 
in  high  gravies  is  a  great  improvement ;  but  it  should 
be  added  only  a  short  time  before  serving. 

To  dress  Gravy  that  will  keep  a  week 

Cut  lean  beef  thin,  put  it  into  a  frying-pan  wifli- 


r 


94 


out  any  butter,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  covered,  bat 
take  care  it  does  not  burn  ;  let  it  stay  till  all  the  gra¬ 
vy  that  comes  out  of  the  meat  is  dried  up  into  it 
again;  put  as  much  water  as  will  cover  the  meat, 
and  let  that  stew  away.  Then  put  to  the  meat  a 
small  quantity  of  water,  herbs,  onions,  spice,  and  a 
bit  of  lean  ham  :  simmer  till  it  is  rich,  and  keep  it 
in  a  cool  place.  Do  not  take  off  the  fat  till  going  to 
be  used. 

Clear  Gravy. 

Slice  beef  thin  ;  broil  a  part  of  it  over  a  very 
clear  quick  fire,  just  enough  to  give  colour  to  the 
gravy,  but  not  to  dress  it ;  put  that  and  the  raw  into 
a  very  nicely  tinned  stew-pan,  with  two  onions,  a 
clove  or  two,  whole  black  peppers,  berries  of  al- 
spice,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  ;  cover  it  with  hot  wa¬ 
ter,  give  it  one  boil,  and  skim  it  well  two  or  three 
times;  then  cover  it;  and  simmer  till  quite  strong. 

Cullis,  or  brown  Gravy. 

Lay  over  the  bottom  of  a  stew-pan  as  much  lean 
veal  as  will  cover  it  an  inch  thick  ;  then  cover  the 
veal  with  thin  slices  of  undressed  gammon,  two  or 
three  onions,  two  or  three  bay-leaves,  some  sweet 
herbs,  two  blades  of  mace,  and  three  cloves.  Cover 
the  stew-pan,  and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  ;  but  when 
the  juices  come  out,  let  the  fire  be  a  little  quicker. 
When  the  meat  is  of  a  fine  brown,  fill  the  pan  with 
good  beef  broth,  boil  and  skim  it,  then  simmer  an 
hour  ;  add  a  little  water,  mixed  with  as  much  flour 
as  will  make  it  properly  thick  :  boil  it  half  an  hour, 
and  strain  it.  This  will  keep  a  week. 

Bechamel ,  or  white  Sauce. 

Cut  lean  veal  into  small  slices,  and  the  same 
quantity  of  lean  bacon  or  ham  :  put  them  into  a 
stew-pan  with  a  good  piece  of  butter,  an  onion,  a 


95 


blade  of  mace,  a  few  mushroom-buttons,  a  bit  of’ 
thyme,  and  a  bay-leaf  5  fry  the  whole  over  a  very 
slow  fire,  but  not  to  brown  it,  thicken  it  with  flour  ; 
then  put  an  equal  quantity  of  good  broth,  and  rich 
cream  ;  let  it  boil  half  an  hour,  and  stir  it  all  the 
time  :  strain  it  through  a  soup-strainer. 

A  rich  Gravy. 

Cut  beef  into  thin  slices,  according  to  the  quantity 
wanted  ;  slice  onions  thin,  and  flour  both  ;  fi'y  them 
of  u  light  pale  brown,  but  do  not  on  any  account 
suffer  them  to  get  black  ;  put  them  into  a  stew  pan, 
pour  boiling  water  on  the  browning  in  the  frying- 
pan,  boil  it  up,  and  pour  on  the  meat.  Put  to  it  a 
bunch  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  savoury,  a  small  bit  of 
knotted  majoram,  the  same  of  taragon,  some  mace, 
berries  of  alspice,  whole  black  peppers,  a  clove  or 
two,  and  a  bit  of  ham,  or  gammon  of  bacon.  Sim¬ 
mer  till  you  have  extracted  all  the  juices  of  the  meat ; 
and  be  sure  to  skim  the  moment  it  boils,  and  often 
after.  If  for  a  hare  or  stewed  fish  anchovy  should 
be  added. 

Gravy  for  a  Fowl  when  there  is  no  meat  to  make  it  of. 

Wash  the  feet  nicely,  and  cut  them  and  the  neck 
small ;  simmer  them  with  a  little  bread  browmed,  a 
slice  of  onion,  a  bit  of  parsley  and  thyme,  some  pep¬ 
per  and  salt,  and  the  liver  and  gizzard,  in  a  quarter 
of  pint  of  water  till  half  wasted.  Take  out  the  liver, 
bruise  it  and  strain  the  liquor  to  it.  Then  thicken 
it  with  flour  and  butter,  and  add  a  tea-spoonful  of 
mushioom-catsup,  and  it  wdl  be  very  good. 

Veal  Gravy. 

Make  it  as  directed  for  Cullis  or  brown  Gravy, 
but  leave  out  the  spice,  herbs,  and  flour.  It  should 
be  drawn  very  slowly  ;  and  if  for  white  dishes,  do 

not  let  the  meat  brown. 


96 


Gravy  to  make  Mutton  eat  like  Venison. 

Pick  a  very  stale  wood-cock  or  snipe,  cut  it  into 
pieces  (but  first  take  out  the  bag  from  the  entrails  ; 
and  simmer  with  as  much  unseasoned  meat-gravy 
as  you  will  want.  Strain  it  and  serve  in  the  dish. 

Strong  Fish  Gravy. 

Skin  two  or  three  eels,  or  some  flounders  ;  gut 
and  wash  them  very  clean  ;  cut  them  into  small 
pieces,  anxl  put  into  a  saucepan.  Cover  them  with 
water,  and  add  a  little  crust  of  bread  toasted  brown, 
two  blades  of  mace,  some  whole  pepper,  sweet 
herbs,  a  piece  of  lemon-peel,  an  anchovy  or  two, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  of  horse  radish.  Cover  close  and 
simmer,  add  a  bit  of  butter  and  flour,  and  boil  with 
the  above. 

Savoury  Jelly  to  put  over  cold  Pies. 

Make  it  of  a  small  bare  knuckle  of  leg  or  shoulder 
of  veal,  or  a  piece  of  scrag  of  that  or  mutton  ;  or  if 
the  pie  be  of  fowl  or  rabbit,  the  carcasses,  necks,  and 
heads,  added  to  any  piece  of  meat,  will  be  sufficient, 
observing  to  give  consistence  by  cow-heel  or  shanks 
mutton.  Put  the  meat,  or  a  slice  of  lean  ham  or 
bacon,  a  faggot  of  different  herbs,  two  blades  of 
mace,  an  onion  or  two,  a  small  bit  of  lemon-peel, 
and  a  tea-spoonful  of  Jamaica  pepper  bruised,  and 
the  same  of  whole  pepper,  and  three  pints  of  water, 
in  a  stew-pot  that  shuts  very  close.  As  soon  as  it 
boils,  skim  it  well,  and  let  it  simmer  very  slowly  til) 
quite  strong  ;  strain  it,  and  when  cold,  take  off  the 
fat  with  a  spoon  first,  and  then,  to  remove  every 
particle  of  grease,  lay  a  clean  piece  of  cap  or  blot¬ 
ting  paper  on  it.  When  cold,  if  not  clear,  boil  it  a 
few  minutes  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs  (but  do  not 
'add  the  sediment.)  and  pour  it  through  a  nice  sieve. 


97 


with  a  napkin  in  it,  which  has  been  dipped  in  boil* 
mg  water,  to  prevent  waste. 

Jelly  to  cover  cold  Fish. 

Clean  a  maid,  and  put  it  in  three  quarts  of  water, 
with  a  calf’s  foot  or  cow-heel,  a  stick  of  horse-radish, 
an  onion,  three  blades  of  mace,  some  w'hite  pepper, 
a  piece  of  lemon-peel,  and  a  good  slice  of  lean  gam¬ 
mon.  Stew  until  it  will  jelly  ;  then  strain  off ;  when 
cold  remove  every  bit  of  fat;  take  it  up  from  the 
sediment,  and  boil  it  with  a  glass  of  sherry ,  the  whites 
of  four  or  five  eggs,  and  a  piece  of  lemon.  Boil  with¬ 
out  stirring  ;  and  after  a  few  minutes  set  it  by  to  stand 
half  an  hour,  and  strain  it  through  a  bag  or  sieve, 
with  a  cloth  in  it.  Cover  the  fish  with  it  when  cold. 

SAUCES,  &C. 

A  very  good  Sauce,  especially  to  hide  the  bad  colour  of 

Fowls. 

Cut  the  livers,  slices  of  lemon  in  dice,  scalded 
parsley,  and  hard  eggs  ;  add  salt  and  mix  them  with 
butter;  boil  them  up,  and  pour  over  the  fowls. 

This  will  do  for  roast  rabbit. 

White  Sauce  for  fricassee  of  Fowls,  Rabbits ,  White 
Meat  Fish ,  of  Vegetables. 

It  is  seldom  necessary  to  buy  meat  for  this  favour¬ 
ite  sauce,  as  the  proportion  of  that  flavour  is  but 
small.  The  water  that  has  boiled  fowls,  veal,  or 
rabbit ;  or  a  little  broth,  that  may  be  in  the  house  ; 
or  the  feet  and  necks  of  chickens,  or  raw  or  dressed 
veal,  will  suffice.  Stew  with  a  little  water  any  of 
these,  with  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  some  sliced  onions, 
some  white  pepper-corns,  a  little  pounded  mace  or 
nutmeg,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  until  the  fla¬ 
vour  be  good,  then  strain  it  and  add  a  little  good 

9 


98 


cream,  a  piece  of  batter  and  a  little  flour  ;  salt  t<s 
your  taste.  A  squeeze  of  lemon  may  be  added  after 
the  sauce  is  taken  off  the  fire,  shaking  it  well.  Yolk 
of  egg  is  often  used  in  fricassee, but  if  you  have  any 
cream  it  is  better,  and  the  former  is  apt  to  curdle. 

Sauce  for  Wild  Fowls. 

Simmer  a  tea-cupful  of  port  wine,  the  same  quan¬ 
tity  of  good  meat  gravy,  a  little  shallot,  a  little  pepper, 
salt,  a  grate  of  nutmeg,  and  a  bit  of  mace,  for  ten 
minutes  :  put  in  a  bit  ofbutter,  and  flour,  give  it  all 
one  boil,  and  pour  it  through  the  birds.  In  general 
they  are  not  stuffed  as  tame,  but  may  be  done  so  if 
liked. 

Sauce  for  Fowl  of  any  sort. 

Boil  some  veal-gravy,  pepper,  salt,  the  juice  of  a 
Seville  orange  and  a  lemon,  and  a  quarter  as  much 
of  port  wine  as  of  gravy  ;  and  pour  it  into  the  dish,  or 
a  boat. 

Sauce  for  cold  Fowl,  or  Partridge. 

R.ub  down  in  a  mortar  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  boil¬ 
ed  hard,  an  anchovy,  two  dessert-spoonfuls  of  oil, 
three  of  vinegar,  a  shallot,  Cayenne,  if  approved,  and 
a  tea-spoonful  of  mustard.  All  should  be  pounded 
before  the  oil  is  added.  Then  strain  it.  Shallot 
vinegar  instead  of  shallots,  eats  well. 

A  very  fine  Mushroom  Sauce  for  Fowls  or  Rabbits. 

Wash  and  pick  a  pint  of  young  mushrooms  and 
rub  them  with  salt,  to  take  off  the  tender  skin.  Put 
them  into  a  sauce-pan  with  a  little  salt,  some  nutmeg, 
a  blade  of  mace,  a  pint  of  cream,  and  a  good  piece 
ofbutter  rubbed  in  flour.  Boil  them  up,  and  stir 
them  till  done  ;  then  pour  it  round  the  chickens,  &c. 
Garnish  with  lemon. 

Ifvou  cannot  get  fresh  mushrooms,  use  pickled 


99 

cione  white,  with  a  little  mushroom  powder  with 
va*s  cream,  &c. 

Lemon  white  Sauce  for  boiling  Fowls. 

Put  the  peel  of  a  small  lemon,  cut  very  thin,  into 
s  pint  of  sweet  rich  cream,  with  a  sprig  of  lemon- 
th^me,  and  ten  white  pepper-corns.  Simmer  gen- 
tty  till  it  taste  well  of  the  lemon  ;  then  strain  it,  and 
thicken  it  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  flour  rubbed  in  it.  Boil  it  up  ; 
then  pour  the  juice  of  the  lemon  strained  into  it,  stir¬ 
ring  it  wefl.  Dish  the  chickens,  and  then  mix  a  lit¬ 
tle  white  gravy,  quite  hot,  with  the  cream,  but  do 
not  boil  them  together  :  add  salt  to  your  taste. 

Eggs  Sauce. 

Boil  the  eggs  hard,  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces  ; 
then  put  them  to  melted  butter. 

Onion  Sauce. 

Peel  the  onions,  and  boil  them  tender  :  squeeze 
the  water  from  them,  then  chop  them,  and  add  to 
them  butter  ihat  has  been  melted  rich  and  smooth, 
as  will  be  hereafter  directed,  but  with  a  little  good 
milk  instead  of  water  ;  boil  it  up  once,  and  serve  it 
for  boiled  rabbits,  partridges,  scrag  or  knuckle  of 
veal,  or  roast  mutton.  A  turnip  boiled  with  the  on¬ 
ions  makes  them  milder. 

Clear  Shallot  Sauce. 

Put  a  few  chopped  sh  dlots  into  a  little  gravy  boil¬ 
ed  clear,  and  near  halfas  much  vinegar  ;  season  with 
pepper  and  salt ;  boil  half  an  hour. 

Green  Sauce  for  Green  Geese  and  Ducklings. 

Mix  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  sorrel-juice,  a  glass  of 
white  wine,  and  some  scalded  gooseberries.  Add 
sugar,  and  a  bit  of  butter.  Boil  them  up. 


100 


Bread  Sauce. 

Boil  a  large  onion,  cut  in  four,  with  some  black 
'peppers  and  milk,  till  the  onion  is  quite  a  pap.  Pour 
the  milk  strained  on  grated  white  stale  bread,  and 
cover  it.  In  an  hour  put  it  into  a  sauce-pan,  with  a 
good  piece  of  butter  mixed  with  a  little  flour  ;  boil 
the  whole  up  together,  and  serve. 

Dutch  Sauce  for  a  leal  or  Fish. 

Put  six  spoonfuls  of  water,  and  four  of  vinegar,  in¬ 
to  a  sauce-pan  warm,  and  thicken  it  with  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs.  Make  it  quite  hot,  but  do  not  boil  it , 
squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  strain  it 
through  a  sieve. 

Sauce  Rohari,  for  Rumps  or  Steaks. 

Put  a  piece  of  butter,  the  size  of  an  egg,  into  a 
sauce-pan,  set  it  over  the  fire,  and  when  browning, 
throw  in  a  handful  of  sliced  onions  cut  small ;  fry 
them  brown,  but  do  not  let  them  burn  ;  add  half  a 
spoonful  of  flour,  shake  the  onions  in  it,  and  give  it 
another  fry  :  then  put  four  spoonfuls  of  gravy,  and 
some  pepper  and  salt,  aad  boil  it  gently  ten  minutes  ; 
skim  off  the  fat ;  add  a  tea-spoonful  of  made  mus¬ 
tard,  a  spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon  ;  boil  it  all,  and  pour  it  round  the  steaks. — 
They  should  be  of  a  fine  yellow  brown,  and  garnish¬ 
ed  with  fried  parsley  and  lemon. 

Benton  Sauce,  for  hot  or  cold  Roast  Beef. 

Grate,  or  scrape  very  fine,  some  horse-radish,  a 
little  made  mustard,  some  pounded  white  sugar,  and 
four  large  spoonfuls  of  vinegar.  Serve  in  a  saucer. 

Sauce  for  Fish  Pies,  where  cream  is  not  ordered. 

Take  equal  quantities  of  white  wine  (not  sweet,) 
vinegar,  oyster-liquors,  mushroom-catsup;  boil 
them  up  with  an  anchovy  ;  strain ;  and  pour  it 
through  a  funnel  into  the  pie  after  it  is  baked. 


101 


Another. — Chop  an  anchovy  small,  and  boil  it  up 
with  three  spoonfuls  of  gravy,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
cream,  add  a  bit  of  butter  and  flour. 

Tomato  Sauce,  for  hot  or  cold  Meats. 

Put  tomateos,  when  perfectly  ripe,  into  an  earthen 
jar  ;  and  set  it  in  an  oven,  when  the  bread  is  drawn, 
till  they  are  quite  soft ;  then  separate  the  skin  from 
the  pulp  ;  and  mix  this  with  capsicum-vinegar,  and 
a  few  cloves  of  garlic  pounded,  which  must  both  be 
proportioned  to  the  quantity  of  fruit.  Add  powder¬ 
ed  ginger  and  salt  to  your  taste.  Some  white-wine 
vinegar  and  Cayenne  may  be  used  instead  of  capsi¬ 
cum  vinegar.  Keep  the  mixture  in  small  wide 
mouthed  bottles,  well  corked,  and  in  a  dry  cool 
place. 

Apple  Sauce,  for  Goose  or  roast  Pork. 

Pare,  core,  and  slice,  some  apples  ;  and  put  them 
in  a  stone  jar,  into  a  saucepan  of  water,  or  on  a  hot 
hearth. 

The  old  Currant-Sauce  for  Venison. 

Boil  an  ounce  of  dried  currants  in  half  a  pint  of 
water  a  few  minutes  ;  then  add  a  small  tea-cuplul  of 
bread-crumbs,  six  cloves,  a  glass  of  port  wine,  and 
a  bit  of  butter  Stir  it  till  the  whole  is  smooth. 

Lemon  Sauce. 

Cut  thin  slices  of  lemon  into  very  small  dice,  and 
put  them  into  melted  butter,  give  it  one  boil,  and 
pour  it  over  boiled  fowls. 

Carrier  Sauce  for  Mutton. 

Chop  six  shallots  fine  ;  and  boil  them  up  with  a 
gill  of  gravy,  a  spoonful  of  vinegar,  some  pepper 
and  salt.  Serve  it  in  a  boat. 

Tomatoes. 

Tomatoes  are  used  in  soups,  sauces,  and  to  serve 
as  little  dishes  at  table,  at  any  part  of  a  dinner. 

9* 


102 


A  very  fine  fish  Sauce. 

Put  into  a  very  nice  tin  sauce-pan  a  pint  of  fine 
port  wine,  a  gill  of mountain,  halfa  pint  of  fine  wal¬ 
nut-catsup,  twelve  anchovies  and  the  liquor  that  be¬ 
longs  to  them,  a  gill  of  walnut-pickle,  the  rind  and 
juice  of  a  large  lemon,  four  or  five  shallots,  some 
Cayenne  to  taste,  three  ounces  of  scraped  horse¬ 
radish,  three  blades  of  mace,  and  two  tea-spoonfuls 
of  made  mustard  ;  boil  it  all  gently,  till  the  rawness 
goes  off ;  then  put  it  into  small  bottles  for  use. 
Cork  them  very  close,  and  seal  the  top. 

An  excellent  substitute  Jar  Caper  Sauce. 

Boil  slowly  some  parsley,  to  let  it  become  a  bad 
colour  cut,  but  do  not  chop  it  fine ;  put  it  to  melted 
butter,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  desertr 
spoonful  of  vinegar.  Boil  up  and  serve. 

Oyster  Sauce. 

Save  the  liquor  in  opening  the  oysters  ;  and  boil 
it  with  the  beards,  a  bit  of  mace,  and  lemon-peel. 
In  the  mean  time  throw  the  oysters  into  cold  water, 
and  drain  it  off.  Strain  the  liquor,  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  them,  and  as  much  butter,  mixed 
with  a  little  milk,  as  will  make  sauce  enough  ;  but 
first  rub  a  little  flour  with  it. 

Set  them  over  the  fire,  and  stir  all  the  time  ;  and 
when  the  butter  has  boiled  once  or  twice,  take  them 
off,  and  keep  the  saucepan  near  the  fire,  but  not  on 
it ;  for,  if  done  too  much,  the  oysters  will  be  hard. 
Squeeze  a  little  lemon-juice,  and  serve. 

A  little  cream  is  a  great  improvement.  Observe, 
the  oysters  will  thin  the  sauce,  so  put  butter  accor¬ 
dingly. 

Lobster  Sauce 

Pound  the  spawn,  and  two  anenovies  ;  pour  on 


103 


them  two  spoonfuls  of  gravy  ;  strain  all  into  some 
butter  melted  as  will  be  hereafter  directed  ;  then 
put  in  the  meat  of  the  lobster,  give  it  all  one  boil, 
and  add  a  squeeze  of  lemon. 

Shrimp  Sauce. 

If  the  shrimps  are  not  picked  at  home,  pour  a 
little  water  over  them  to  wash  them,  put  them  to 
butter  melted  thick  and  smooth,  give  them  one  boil, 
and  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

Anchovy  Sauce. 

Chop  one  or  two  anchovies  without  washing,  put 
them  to  some  flour  and  butter,  and  a  little  drop  of 
water  :  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  it  boils  once  or  twice. 
When  the  anchovies  are  good,  they  will  be  dissolv¬ 
ed  ;  and  the  colour  will  be  better  than  by  the  usual 
way. 

To  melt  butter  :  which  is  rarely  well  done,  though  a 
•very  essential  article. 

Mix  in  the  proportion  of  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour  to 
four  ounces  of  the  best  butter,  on  a  trencher.  Put 
it  into  a  small  sauce-pan,  and  two  or  three  table¬ 
spoonfuls  of  hot  water  ;  boil  quick,  a  minute,  shak¬ 
ing  it  all  the  time.  Milk  used  instead  of  water,  re¬ 
quires  rather  less  butter,  and  looks  whiter. 

To  make  Mustard. 

Mix  the  best  Durham  flour  of  mustard  by  degrees, 
with  boiling  w'ater,  to  a  proper  thickness,  rubbing  it 
perfectly  smooth  ;  add  a  little  salt,  and  keep  it  in  a 
small  jar  close  covered,  and  put  only  as  much  into 
the  glass  as  will  be  used  soon  :  which  should  be  wiped 
daily  round  the  edges. 

Kitchen  Pepper. 

Mix  in  the  finest  powder,  one  ounce  of  ginger  ; 
ofcinnamon,  black  pepper,  nutmeg, and  Jamaica  pep- 


104 


per,  half  an  ounce  each  ;  ten  cloves  and  six;  ounces 
of  salt.  Keep  it  in  a  bottle — it  is  an  agreeable  addi¬ 
tion  to  any  brown  sauces  or  soups. 

Forcemeat ,  to  force  Fowls  or  Meat. 

Shred  a  little  ham,  or  gammon,  some  cold  veal,  or 
fowl,  some  beef-suet,  a  small  quantity  of  onion,  some 
parsley,  very  little  lemon-peel,  salt  nutmeg,  or 
pounded  mace,  and  either  white  pepper,  or  Cayenne, 
and  bread-crumbs. 

Pound  it  in  a  mortar,  and  bind  it  with  one  or  two 
eggs  beaten  and  strained.  For  forcemeat  patties,  the 
mixture  as  above. 

For  cold  Savoury  Pies. 

The  same  ;  only  substituting  fat,  or  bacon,  for  suet. 
The  livers  (if  the  pie  be  of  rabbit  or  fowl,)  mixed 
with  fat  and  lean  of  pork,  instead  of  bacon,  and  sea¬ 
soned  as  ab„ove,  are  excellent. 

Forcemeat  as  for  Turtle. 

A  pound  of  tine  fresh  suet,  one  ounce  of  ready 
dressed  veal  or  chicken, -chopped  fine,  crumbs  of 
bread,  a  little  shallot  or  onion,  salt,  white  pepper, 
nutmeg,  mace,  pennyroyal,  parsley,  and  lemon- 
thyme,  finely  shred  ;  beat  as  many  fresh  eggs,  yolks 
and  whites  separately,  as  will  make  the  above  in¬ 
gredients  into  a  moist  paste  ;  roll  into  srnali  balls, 
and  boil  them  in  fresh  lard,  putting  them  in  just  as  it 
boils  up.  When  of  a  light  brown,  take  them  out, 
and  drain  them  before  the  fire.  If  the  suet  be  moi9t 
or  stale,  a  great  many  more  eggs  will  be  necessary. 

PIES,  PUDDINGS,  AND  PASTRY 

On  Savoury  Pies. 

There  are  few  articles  of  cookery  more  generally 
liked  than  relishing-pies,  if  properly  made ;  and 
they  may  be  made  so  of  a  great  variety  of  things. 


Some  are  best  eaten  when  cold,  and  in  that  case, 
there  should  be  no  suet  put  into  the  forcemeat  that  is 
used  with  them.  If  the  pie  is  either  made  of  meat 
that  will  take  more  dressing,  to  make  it  extremely 
tender,  than  the  baking  of  the  crust  will  allow,  or 
if  it  is  to  be  served  in  an  earthen  pie-form,  observe 
the  following  preparation  : 

Take  three  pounds  of  the  very  nicest  of  beef  (for 
instance)  that  has  fat  and  lean  ;  wash  it ;  and  season 
it  with  salt,  pepper,  mace,  and  alspice,  in  tine  pow¬ 
der,  rubbing  them  well  in.  Set  it  by  the  side  of  a 
slow  fire,  in  a  stew-pot  that  will  just  hold  it ;  put  to 
it  a  piece  of  butter  of  about  the  weight  of  two  ounces, 
and  cover  it  quite  close  ;  let  it  just  simmer  in  its 
own  steam  till  it  begins  to  shrink.  When  it  is  cold, 
add  more  seasoning,  forcemeat,  and  eggs  ;  and  if  it  is 
in  a  dish,  put  some  gravy  to  it  before  baking  ;  but  if 
it  is  only  in  crust,  do  not  put  the  gravy  till  after  it  is 
cold  and  in  jelly.  Forcemeat  may  be  put  both  un¬ 
der  and  over  the  meat,  if  preferred  to  balls. 

Eel  Pie. 

Cut  the  eels  in  lengths  of  two  or  three  inches, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  place  in  the  dish, 
with  some  bits  of  butter,  and  a  little  water,  and  cover 
it  with  paste. 

Cod  Pie. 

Take  a  piece  of  the  middle  of  a  small  cod,  and  salt 
it 'well  one  night;  next  day  wash  it :  season  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  very  little  nutmeg,  mixed  ;  place 
in  a  dish,  and  put  some  butter  on  it,  and  a  little  good 
broth  of  any  kind  into  the  dish. 

Cover  it  with  a  crust ;  and  when  done,  add  a 
sauce  of  a  spoonful  of  broth,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
cream,  a  little  flour  and  butter,  a  grate  of  lemon  and 
nutmeg,  and  give  it  one  boil.  Oystprs  may  be  added. 


i06 

Mackerel  will  do  well,  hut  do  not  salt  them  till 
used. 

Parsley  picked  and  put  in,  may  be  used  instead  of 
oysters. 

Shrimp  Pie ,  Excellent 

Pick  a  quart  of  shrimps  :  if  they  are  very  salt, 
season  them  with  only  mace  and  a  clove  or  two. 
Mince  two  or  three  anchovies  ;  mix  these  with  the 
spice,  and  then  season  the  shrimps.  Put  some  but¬ 
ter  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  over  the  shrimps, 
with  a  glass  of  sharp  white  wine.  The  paste  must 
be  light  and  thin.  They  do  not  take  long  baking. 

,  Lobster  Pie. 

Boil  two  lobsters,  or  three  small,  take  out  the 
tails,  cut  them  in  two,  take  out  the  gut,  cut  each  in 
four  pieces  and  lay  in  a  small  dish,  then  put  in  the 
meat  of  the  claws,  and  that  you  have  picked  out  of 
the  body  ;  pick  off  the  furry  parts  from  the  latter, 
and  take  out  the  lady  ;  the  spawn  beat  in  a  mortar  ; 
likewise  all  the  shells  ;  set  them  on  to  stew  with 
some  water,  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  pep¬ 
per,  salt,  and  some  pounded  mace  :  a  large  piece  of 
butter,  rolled  in  flour,  must  be  added  when  the 
goodness  of  the  shells  is  obtained :  give  a  boil  or 
two,  and  pour  into  the  dish  strained  ;  stew  some 
crumbs,  and  put  a  paste  over  all  ;  bake  slowly,  but 
only  till  the  jiaste  be  done. 

A  remarkable  fine  Fish  Pie. 

Boil  two  pounds  of  small  eels  ;  having  cut  the 
fins  quite  close,  pick  the  flesh  off,  and  throw  the 
bones  into  the  liquor  with  a  little  mace,  pepper, 
salt,  and  a  slice  of  onion  ;  boil  till  quite  rich,  and 
strain  it.  Make  forcemeat  of  the  flesh,  an  anchovy, 
parsley,  lemon  peel,  salt,  pepper,  and  crumbs,  and 
Tour  ounces  of  butter  warmed,  and  lav  it  at  the  hot- 


107 


tom  ot’  the  dish.  Take  the  flesh  of  a  small  cod,  or 
dressed  turbot,  and  lay  them  on  the  forcemeat,  hav¬ 
ing  rubbed  it  with  salt  and  pepper :  pour  the  gravy 
over  and  bake. 

Beef  Steak  Pie. 

Prepare  the  steaks  as  in  page  32,  and  when  sea¬ 
soned  and  rolled  with  fat  in  each,  put  them  in  a  dish 
with  puff  paste  round  the  edges  ;  put  a  little  water 
in  the  dish,  and  cover  it  with  good  crust. 

Veal  Pie. 

Take  some  of  the  middle,  or  scrag  of  a  small 
neck  ;  season  it  ;  and  either  put  to  it,  or  not,  a  few 
slices  of  lean  bacon  or  ham.  If  it  is  wanted  of  a  high 
relish,  add  mace,  Cayenne,  and  nutmeg,  to  the  salt 
and  pepper :  and  also  forcemeat  and  eggs  ;  and  if 
you  choose,  add  truffles,  morels,  mushrooms,  sweet¬ 
breads  cut  into  small  bits,  and  cocks’-combs  blanch¬ 
ed,  if  liked.  Have  a  rich  gravy  ready,  and  pour  in 
after  baking. — Ii  will  be  very  good  without  any  of 
the  latter  additions. 

A  rich  Veal  Pie. 

Cut  steaks  from  a  neck  or  breast  of  veal ;  season 
them  with  pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  and  a  very  little 
clove  in  powder.  Slice  two  sweetbreads,  and  sea¬ 
son  them  in  the  same  manner.  Lay  a  puff  paste 
on  the  edge  of  the  dish  ;  then  put  the  meat,  yolks  of 
hard  eggs,  the  sweetbreads,  and  some  oysters,  up  to 
the  top  of  the  dish.  Lay  over  the  whole  some  very 
thin  slices  of  ham,  and  fill  up  the  dish  with  water  ; 
cover ;  and  when  it  is  taken  out  of  the  oven,  pour 
in  at  the  top,  through  a  funnel,  a  few  spoonfuls  of 
good  veal  gravy,  and  some  cream  to  fill  up :  but 
first  boil  it  up  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour. 

Calf  s-head  Pie. 

Stew  a  knuckle  of  veal  till  fit  for  eating,  with  twa 


10S 


onions,  a  tew  isinglass-shavings,  a  bunch  of  herbs,  a 
blade  of  mace,  and  a  few  pepper-corns,  in  three 
pints  of  water.  Keep  the  broth  for  the  pie.  Take 
off  a  bit  of  the  meat  for  the  balls,  and  let  the  other 
be  eaten,  but  simmer  the  bones  in  the  broth  till  it  is 
very  good.  Half-boil  the  head,  and  cut  it  into 
square  bits  ;  put  a  layer  of  ham  at  the  bottom  ;  then 
some  head,  first  fat,  then  lean,  with  balls  and  hal’d 
eggs  cut  in  half,  and  so  on  till  the  dish  be  full  ;  but 
be  particularly  careful  not  to  place  the  pieces  close, 
or  the  pie  will  be  too  solid,  and  there  will  be  no 
space  lor  the  jelly.  Meat  must  be  first  pretty 
well  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  scrape  or 
two  of  nutmeg.  Put  a  little  water  and  a  little  gravy 
into  the  dish,  and  cover  it  with  a  tolerably  thick 
crust ;  bake  it  in  a  slow  oven,  and  when  done,  pour 
into  it  as  much  gravy  as  it  will  possibly  hold,  and  do 
not  cut  it  till  perfectly  cold  ;  in  doing  which,  observe 
to  use  a  very  sharp  knife,  and  first  cut  out  a  large  bit, 
going  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  dish  ;  and  when 
done  thus,  thinner  slices  can  be  cut ;  the  different 
colours  and  the  clear  jelly  have  a  beautiful  marbled 
appearance. 

A  small  pie  may  be  made  to  eat  hot,  which,  with 
high  seasoning,  oysters,  mushrooms,  truffles,  morels, 
&c.  has  a  very  good  appearance. 

The  cold  pie  will  keep  many  days.  Slices  make 
a  pretty  side  dish. 

Instead  of  isinglass,  use  a  calf’s  foot,  or  a  cow- 
heel,  if  the  jelly  is  not  likely  to  be  stiff  enough. 

The  pickled  tongues  offormer  calves  heads  may  be 
cot  in,  to  vary  the  colour,  instead  of,  or  besides  ham. 

Excellent  pork  Pies  to  eat  cold,. 

Raise  common  boiled  crust  into  either  a  round  or 
oval  form,  as  you  choose  ;  have  ready  the  trimming 


and  small  bits  of  pork  cut  off  when  a  hog  is  killed; 
and  if  these  are  not  enough,  take  the  meat  of  a  sweet 
bone.  Beat  it  well  with  a  rolling-pin  ;  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  keep  the  fat  and  lean  separate. 
Put  it  in  layers,  quite  dose  up  to  the  top  ;  lay  on 
the  lid  cut  the  edge  smooth  round,  and  pinch  it ; 
bake  in  a  slow  soaking  oven,  as  the  meat  is  very 
solid.  Directions  for  raising  the  crust  w ill  be  given 
hereafter.  The  pork  may  be  put  into  a  common 
dish,  with  a  very  plain  crust,  and  be  quite  as  good. 
Observe  to  put  no  bone  or  water  into  pork  pie  ;  the 
outside  of  the  pieces  will  be  hard,  unless  they  are 
cut  small  and  pressed  close. 

Mutton  Pie. 

Cut  steaks  from  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton  that  has 
hung ;  beat  them  and  remove  some  of  the  fat. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  onion  :  put  a 
little  water  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  a  little 
paste  on  the  edge  ;  then  cover  with  a  moderately 
thick  paste.  Or  raise  small  pies,  and  breaking  each 
bone  in  two  to  shorten  it ;  season,  and  cover  it 
over,  pinching  the  edge.  When  they  come  out, 
pour  into  each  a  spoonful  of  gravy  made  of  a  bit  of 
mutton. 

Squab  Pie. 

Cut  apples  as  for  other  pies,  and  lay  them  in  rows 
with  mutton  chops  ;  shred  onion,  and  sprinkle  at 
among  them,  and  also  some  sugar 

Lamb  Pie. 

Make  it  of  the  loin,  neck,  or  breast ;  the  breast  of 
house-lamb  is  one  of  the  most  delicate  things  that 
Oan  be  eaten.  It  should  be  very  lightly  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt ;  the  bone  taken  out,  but  not 
the  gristles  ;;  and  a  small  quantity  of  jelly  gravy  be 

10 


no 


put  in  hot ;  but  the  pie  should  not  be  cut  till  cold. 
Put  two  spoonfuls  of  water  before  baking. 

Grass  lamb  makes  an  excellent  pie,  and  may  either 
be  boned  or  not,  but  not  to  bone  it  is  perhaps  the 
best.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt  only  ;  put  two 
spoonfuls  of  water  before  baking,  and  as  much  gra- 
yy  when  it  comes  from  the  oven. 

Note. — Meat  pies  being  fat,  it  is  best  to  let  out  the 
gravy  on  one  side,  and  put  it  in  again  by  a  funnel,  at 
the  centre,  and  a  little  may  be  added. 

Chicken  Pie. 

Cut  up  two  young  towls  ;  season  with  white  pep¬ 
per,  salt,  a  little  mace,  and  nutmeg,  all  in  the  finest 
powder;  likewise  a  little  Cayenne.  Put  the  chick¬ 
en,  slices  of  harn,  or  fresh  gammon  of  bacon,  force¬ 
meat-balls,  and  hard  eggs,  by  turns,  in  layers.  If  it 
is  to  be  baked  in  a  dish,  put  in  a  little  water  ;  but 
none  if  in  a  raised  crust.  By  the  time  it  returns 
from  the  oven,  have  ready  a  gravy  off  a  knuckle  of 
veal,  or  a  bit  of  the  scrag,  with  some  shank-bones  of 
mutton,  seasoned  with  herbs,  onions,  mace,  and  white 
pepper.  If  it  is  to  be  eaten  hot  you  may  add  truffles, 
morels,  mushrooms,  &.c.  but  not  if  to  be  eaten  cold. 
If  it  is  made  in  a  dish,  put  as  much  gravy  as  will  fill 
it ;  but  in  a  raised  crust,  the  gravy  must  be  nicely 
strained,  and  then  put  in  cold  as  jelly.  To  make  the 
jelly  clear,  you  may  give  it  a  boil  with  the  whites  of 
two  eggs,  after  taking  away  the  meat,  and  then  run 
it  through  a  fine  lawn  sieve. 

Rabbits,  if  young  and  in  flesh,  do  as  well :  their 
legs  should  be  cut  short,  and  the  breast-bones  must 
Dot  go  in,  but  will  help  to  make  the  gravy. 

Green-Goose  Pie. 

Bone  two  young  green  geese,  of  a  good  size  ;  but 
first  take  away  every  plug,  and  singe  them  nicely. 


Ill 


Wash  them  clean ;  and  season  them  high  with  salt, 
pepper,  mace,  and  alspice  Put  one  inside  the 
other,  and  press  them  as  close  as  you  can,  drawing 
the  legs  inwards.  Put  a  good  deal  of  butter  over 
them,  and  bake  them  either  with  or  without  cru-st  ; 
if  the  latter,  a  cover  to  the  dish  must  lit  close  to 
keep  in  the  steam.  It  will  keep  long. 

Duck  Pie. 

Bone  a  full  grown  young  duck  and  a  fowl  ;  wash 
them  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  small 
proportion  of  mace  and  alspice  ;  in  the  finest  pow¬ 
der.  Put  the  fowl  within  the  duck,  and  in  the  for¬ 
mer  a  calf’s  tongue  pickled  red,  boiled  very  tender, 
and  peeled.  Press  the  w  hole  close  ;  the  skins  of 
the  legs  should  be  drawn  inwards,  that  the  body  of 
the  fowds  may  be  quite  smooth.  If  approved,  the 
space  between  the  sides  of  the  crust  may  be  filled 
with  a  fine  forcemeat,  made  according  to  the  receipt 
as  for  turtle.  Bake  it  in  a  slow  oven,  either  in 
a  raised  crust,  or  pie-dish,  with  a  thick  crust  orna¬ 
mented. 

The  large  pies  in  Staffordshire  are  made  as  above, 
but  with  a  goose  outwards,  then  a  turkey,  a  duck 
next,  then  a  fowl,  and  either  tongue,  small  birds,  or 
lorcemeat,  in  the  middle. 

Giblet  Pie. 

After  nicely  cleaning  goose  or  duck  giblets,  stew 
(hem  with  a  small  quantity  of  water,  onion,  black 
pepper,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  till  nearly  done. 
Let  them  grow  cold  ;  and  if  not  enough  to  fill  the 
dish,  lay  a  beef,  veal,  or  two  or  three  mutton  steaks, 
at  bottom.  Put  the  liquor  of  the  stew  to  bake  with 
the  above  ;  and  when  the  pie  is  baked,  pour  into  it 
a  large  tea-cupful  of  cream. 

Sliced  potatoes  added  to  it  eat  extremely  well. 


1\2 

Pigeon  Pie. 

Rub  the  pigeons  with  pepper  and  salt,  inside  and 
out ;  in  the  latter  but  a  bit  of  butter,  and  if  approved, 
some  parsley  chopped  with  the  livers,  and  a  little  of 
the  same  seasoning.  Lay  a  beef  steak  at  the  bottom 
of  the  dish,  and  the  birds  on  it ;  between  every  two, 
a  hard  egg.  Put  a  cup  of  water  in  the  dish  ;  and  if 
you  have  any  ham  in  the  house,  lay  a  bit  on  each 
pigeon  ;  it  is  a  great  improvement  to  the  flavour. 

Observe  when  ham  is  cut  for  gravy  or  pies,  to 
take  the  under  part  rather  than  the  prime. 

Season  the  gizzards,  and  two  joints  of  the  wings, 
and  put  them  in  the  centre  of  the  pie  ;  and  over 
them,  in  a  hole  made  in  the  crust,  three  feet  nicely 
cleaned,  to  show  what  pie  it  is. 

Partridge  Pie  in  a  Dish. 

Pick  and  singe  four  partridges  :  cut  off  the  legs  at 
the  knee,  season  with  pepper,  salt,  chopped  parsley, 
thyme,  and  mushrooms.  Lay  a  veal-steak,  and  a 
slice  of  ham,  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish  ;  put  the 
partridges  in,  and  half  a  pint  of  good  broth.  Put 
puff  paste  on  the  ledge  ot  the  dish,  and  cover  with 
the  same  ;  brush  it  over  with  egg,  and  bake  an  hour. 

A  French  Pie. 

Lay  a  puff'  paste  round  on  the  ledge  of  the  dish, 
and  put  in  either  veal  in  slices,  rabbits,  or  chickens 
jointed ;  with  forcemeat-balls,  sweebreads  cut  in 
pieces,  artichoke  bottoms,  and  a  few  truffles. 

Vegetable  Pie. 

Scald  and  blanch  some  broad  beans  ;  cut  young 
carrots,  turnips,  artichoke-bottoms,  mushrooms, 
peas,  onions,  lettuce,  parsley,  celery,  or  any  of 
them  you  have  ;  make  the  whole  into  a  nice  stew, 
with  some  good  veal-gravy.  Bake  a  crust  over  a 
dish,  with  a  little  lining  round  the  edge,  and  a  cun 


When  baked, 


turned  up  to  keep  it  from  sinking, 
open  the  lid,  and  pour  in  the  stew. 

Parsley  Pie. 

Lay  a  fowl,  or  n  tew  bones  of  the  scrag  of  veal, 
seasoned,  into  a  dish,  scald  a  colander  full  of  picked 
parsley  in  milk  ;  season  if;  and  add  to  it  the  fowl 
or  meat,  with  a  tea-cupful  of  any  sort  of  good  broth, 
or  weak  gravy.  When  it  is  baked,  pour  into  it  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream  scalded,  with  the  size  of 
a  walnut  of  butter,  and  a  bit  of  Hour.  Shake  it 
round,  to  mix  with  the  gravy  already  in. 

Lettuces,  white  mustard  leaves,  or  spinach,  may 
be  added  to  the  parsley,  and  scalded  before  put  in. 

Turnip  Pie. 

Season  mutton  chops  with  salt  and  pepper,  re¬ 
serving  the  ends  of  the  neck-bones  to  lay  over  the 
turnips,  which  must  bp  cut  into  small  dice,  and  put 
on  the  steaks.  Put  two  or  three  good  spoonfuls  of 
milk  in.  You  may  add  sliced  onion.  Cover  with  a 
crust. 

Potato  Pie. 

Skin  some  potatoes,  and  cut  them  into  slices  :  sea¬ 
son  them  ;  and  also  some  mutton,  beef,  pork,  or 
veal.  Put  layers  of  them  and  of  the  meat. 

An  Herb  Pie. 

Pick  two  handfuls  of  parsley  from  the  stems, 
half  the  quantity  of  spinach,  two  lettuces,  some  mus¬ 
tard  and  cress,  a  few  leaves  of  borage,  and  white- 
beet  leaves  ;  wash,  and  boil  them  a  little  ;  then 
drain,  and  press  out  the  water  ;  cut  them  small ; 
mix  and  lay  them  in  a  dish  ;  sprinkle  with  some  salt ; 
mix  a  batter  of  Hour,  two  eggs  well  beaten,  a  pint  of 
cream,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and  pour  it  on  the 
herbs  :  cover  with  a  good  crust,  and  b;  ke. 

10* 


114 


Raised  Crust ,  for  Meat  Pies ,  or  Fowls,  4*c. 

Boil  water  with  a  little  tine  lard,  and  an  equal 
quantity  of  fresh  dripping,  or  of  butter,  but  not  much 
of  either.  While  hot,  mix  this  with  as  much  flour 
as  you  will  want,  making  the  paste  as  stiff  as  you  can 
to  be  smooth,  which  you  will  make  it  by  good  knead¬ 
ing  and  beating  it  with  the  rolling-pin.  When  quite 
smooth,  put  a  lump  into  a  cloth,  or  under  a  pan,  to 
soak  till  near  cold. 

Those  who  have  not  a  good  hand  at  raising  crust 
may  do  thus  :  Roll  the  paste  of  a  proper  thickness, 
and  cut  out  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  pie,  then  a 
long  piece  for  the  sides.  Cement  the  bottom  to  the 
sides  with  egg,  bringing  the  former  rather  farther 
out,  and  pinching  both  together ;  put  egg  between 
the  edges  of  the  paste,  to  make  it  adhere  at  the 
sides.  Fill  your  pie,  and  put  on  the  cover,  and 
pinch  it  and  the  side  crust  together.  The  same 
mode  of  uniting  the  paste  is  to  be  observed  if  the 
sides  are  pressed  into  a  tin  form,  in  which  the  paste 
must  be  baked,  after  it  shall  be  filled  and  covered  ; 
but  in  the  latter  case,  the  tin  should  be  buttered, 
and  carefully  taken  off  when  done  enough  ;  and  as 
the  form  usually  makes  the  sides  of  a  lighter  colour 
than  is  proper,  the  paste  should  be  put  into  the  oven 
again  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  With  a  feather, 
put  egg  over  at  first. 

PUDDINGS,  ETC. 

Observations  on  making  Puddings  and  Pancakes. 

The  outside  of  a  boiled  pudding  often  tastes  disa¬ 
greeably  ;  which  arises  by  the  cloth  not  being  nic» 
ly  washed,  and  kept  in  a  dry  place.  It  should  be 
dipped  in  boiling  water,  squeezed  dry,  and  floured 
when  to  be  used. 


115 

If  bread,  it  should  be  tied  loose  ;  if  batter,  tight 
over. 

The  water  should  boil  quick  when  the  pudding  is 
put  in  ;  and  it  should  be  moved  about  for  a  minute, 
lest  the  ingredients  should  not  mix. 

Batter  pudding  should  be  strained  through  a 
coarse  sieve,  when  all  is  mixed.  In  others,  the  eggs 
separately. 

The  pans  and  basins  must  be  always  buttered. 

A  pan  of  cold  water  should  be  ready,  and  the 
pudding  dipped  in  as  soon  as  it  comes  out  of  the 
pot,  and  then  it  will  not  adhere  to  the  cloth. 

Very  good  puddings  may  be  made  without  eggs, 
but  they  must  have  as  little  milk  as  will  mix,  and 
must  boil  three  or  four  hours.  A  few  spoonfuls  of 
fresh  small  beer,  or  one  of  yeast  will  answer  in¬ 
stead  of  eggs. 

Or  Snow  is  an  excellent  substitute  for  eggs,  either 
in  puddings  or  pancakes.  Two  large  spoonfuls  will 
supply  the  place  of  one  egg,  and  the  article  it  is 
used  in  will  be  equally  good. 

Note. — The  yolks  and  whites  beaten  long  and  se¬ 
parately,  make  the  article  they  are  put  into  much 
lighter. 

Almond  Pudding. 

Beat  half  a  pound  of  sweet  and  a  few  bitter  al¬ 
monds  with  a  spoonful  of  water  ;  then  mix  tour 
ounces  of  butter,  four  eggs,  two  spoonfuls  of  cream 
warm  with  butter  one  of  brandy,  a  little  nutmeg, 
and  sugar  to  taste.  Butter  some  cups,  half  fill,  and 
bake  the  puddings.  Serve  with  butter,  wine,  and 
sugar. 

Baked  Almond  Pudding. 

Beat  fine  four  ounces  of  almonds,  four  or  five  bit¬ 
ter  ditto,  with  a  little  wine,  yolks  of  six  eggs,  peel  of 
two  lemons  grated,  six  ounces  of  butter,  near  a  quart 


116 


of  cream,  and  juice  of  one  lemon.  When  well  nnx- 
«d,  bake  it  half  an  hour,  with  paste  round  the  dish. 

Sago  Pudding. 

Boil  a  pint  and  a  half  of  new  milk,  with  four 
spoonfuls  of  sago  nicely  washed  and  picked,  lemon- 
peel,  cinnamon,  and  nutmeg  ;  sweeten  to  taste  ;  then 
mix  four  eggs,  put  a  paste  round  the  dish,  and  bake 
slowly. 

Bread  and  Butter  Pudding. 

Slice  bread  spread  with  butter,  and  lay  it  in  a  dish 
with  currants  between  each  layer  ;  and  sliced  citron, 
orange,  or  lemon;  if  to  be  very  nice.  Pour  over 
an  unboiled  custard  of  milk,  two  or  three  eggs,  a 
few  pimentos,  and  a  very  little  ratafia,  two  hours  at 
least,  before  it  is  to  be  baked  ;  and  lard  it  over  to 
soak  the  bread. 

A  paste  round  the  edge  makes  all  puddings  look 
better,  but  is  not  necessarv. 

Orange  Pudding. 

Grate  the  rind  of  a  Seville  orange  :  put  to  it  six 
ounces  of  fresh  butter,  six  or  eight  ounces  of  lump- 
sugar  pounded  :  beat  them  all  in  a  marble  mortar, 
and  add  as  you  do  it,  the  whole  of  eight  eggs  well 
beaten  and  strained  ;  scrape  a  raw  apple,  and  mix 
with  the  rest ;  put  a  paste  at  the  bottom  and  sides 
of  the  dish,  and  over  the  orange  mixture  put  cross 
bars  of  paste.  Half  an  hour  will  bake  it. 

Another. — Rather  more  than  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  the  orange  paste,  mixed  with  six  eggs,  fourounc.es 
of  sugar,  and  four  ounces  of  butter,  melted,  will 
make  a  good  sized  pudding,  with  a  paste  at  the  bot¬ 
tom  of  the  dish.  Bake  tweny  minutes. 

An  excellent  Lemon  Pudding . 

Beat  the  yolk  of  four  eggs  ;  add  four  ounces  of 


117 


white  sugar,  the  rind  of  a  lemon  being  rubbed  with 
some  lumps  of  it  to  take  the  essence  :  then  peel, 
and  beat  it  in  a  mortar  with  the  juice  of  a  large 
lemon  and  mix  all  with  four  or  five  ounces  of  butter 
warmed.  Put  a  crust  into  a  shallow  dish,  nick  the 
edges,  and  put  the  above  into  it.  When  served, 
turn  the  pudding  out  of  the  dish. 

A  very  fine  Amber  Pudding. 

Put  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  sauce-pan  with  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  finely  powdered  ; 
melt  the  butter,  and  mix  well  with  it  ;  then  add  the 
yolks  of  fifteen  eggs  well  beaten,  and  as  much  fresh 
candied  orange  as  will  add  colour  and  flavour  to 
it,  being  first  beaten  to  a  fine  paste.  Line  the  dish 
with  paste  for  turning  out  ;  and  when  filled  with  the 
above,  lay  a  crust  over,  as  you  would  a  pie,  and 
bake  it  in  a  slow  oven — It  is  as  good  cold  as  hot. 

Baked  apple  pudding. 

Pare  and  quarter  four  large  apples  ;  boil  them 
tender  with  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  in  so  little  water 
that,  when  done,  none  may  remain  ;  beat  them 
quite  fine  in  a  mortar  ;  add  the  crumb  of  a  small 
roll,  four  ounces  of  butter,  melted  ;  the  yolks  of 
five  and  whites  of  three  eggs,  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  sugar  to  taste  ;  beat  all  together,  and  lay  it  in  a 
dish  with  paste  to  turn  out. 

Oatmeal  pudding 

Pour  a  quart  of  boiling  milk  over  a  pint  of  the 
best  fine  oatmeal :  let  it  soak  all  night :  next  day 
beat  two  eggs  and  mix  a  little  salt,  butter  a  basin 
that  will  just  hold  it  ;  cover  it  tight  with  a  floured 
cloth,  and  boil  it  an  hour  and  a  half.  Eat  it  with 
cold  butter  and  salt. 

When  cold,  slice  and  toast  it,  and  eat  it  as  oat¬ 
cake,  buttered. 


118 


Dutch  pudding ,  or  a  Sinister. 

Melt  one  pound  of  butter  in  half  a  pint  of  milk  * 
mix  it  into  two  pounds  of  flour,  eight  eggs,  four 
spoonfuls  of  yeast  ;  add  one  pound  of  currants,  and 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  beaten  and  sifted.  An 
hour  will  bake  it  in  a  quick  oven. 

A  Dutch  rice  pudding . 

Soak  four  ounces  of  rice  in  warm  water  half  an 
hour ;  drain  the  latter  from  it,  and  throw  it  into  a 
stew-pan,  with  half  a  pint  of  milk,  half  a  stick  of  cin¬ 
namon,  and  simmer  till  tender.  When  cold,  add  four 
eggs  well  beaten,  two  ounces  of  butter  melted  in  a 
tea-cupful  of  cream  ;  and  put  three  ounces  of  sugar,  a 
quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  and  a  good  piece  oflemon-peel. 

Put  a  light  puff  paste  into  a  mould  or  dish,  or 
grated  tops  and  bottoms,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Light  or  German  puddings  or  puffs. 

Melt  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  pint  of  cream  ; 
let  it  stand  till  nearly  cold  :  then  mix  two  ounces  of 
fine  flour,  and  two  ounces  of  sugar,  four  yolks  and 
two  whites  of  eggs,  and  a  little  rose  or  orange-flower 
water.  Bake  in  little  cups  buttered,  half  an  hour. 
They  should  be  served  the  moment  they  are  done, 
and  only  when  going  to  be  eaten,  or  they  will  not  be 
light.  Turn  out  the  cups,  and  serve  with  white  wine 
and  sugar. 

Little  Bread  Buddings. 

Steep  the  crumb  of  a  penny  loaf,  grated,  in  about 
a  pint  of  warm  milk  ;  when  soaked,  beat  six  eggs, 
whites  and  yolks,  and  mix  with  the  bread,  and  two 
ounces  of  butter  warmed,  sugar,  orange-flower  wa¬ 
ter,  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  a  little  nutmeg,  and  a  tea¬ 
cupful  of  cream.  Beat  all  well,  and  bake  in  tea¬ 
cups  buttered.  If  currants  are  chosen,  a  quarter  ol 


119 


a  pound  is  suftu  o  if  not  they  are  good  without  •• 
or  you  may  put  orange  or  lemon-candy.  Serve  with 
pudding-sauce. 

Puddings  in  haste. 

Shred  suet,  and  put,  with  grated  bread,  a  few  cur¬ 
rants,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and  the  whites  of  two, 
some  grated  lemon-peel  and  ginger.  Mix,  and  make 
into  little  balls  about  the  size  and  shape  of  an  egg, 
with  a  little  flour. 

Have  ready  a  skillet  of  boiling  water,  and  throw 
them  in.  Twenty  minutes  will  boil  them  ;  but  they 
will  rise  to  the  top  when  done.  Pudding-sauce. 

JVew  College  Pudding. 

Grate  the  crumb  of  a  two  penny-loaf,  shred  suet 
eight  ounces,  and  mix  with  eight  ounces  ofcurrants, 
one  of  citron  mixed  tine,  one  of  orange,  a  handful  of 
sugar,  half  a  nutmeg,  three  eggs  beaten,  yolk  and 
white  separately.  Mix,  and  make  into  the  size  and 
shape  of  a  goose-egg.  Put  half  a  pound  of  butter 
into  a  frying-pan  ;  and  when  melted  and  quite  hot, 
stew  them  gently  in  it  over  a  stove  ;  turn  them  two 
or  three  times  till  of  a  tine  light  brown.  Mix  a  glass 
of  brand}'  with  the  batter. 

Serve  with  pudding-sauce. 

Boiled  Bread  Pudding. 

Grate  white  bread  ;  pour  boiling  milk  over  it,  and 
cover  close.  When  soaked  an  hour  or  two,  beat 
it  fine  and  mix  with  it  two  or  three  eggs  well  beaten. 

Put  it  into  a  basin  ihat  will  just  hold  it ;  tie  a  flour¬ 
ed  cloth  over  it,  and  put  it  into  boiling  water.  Send 
it  up  with  melted  butter  poured  over. 

It  may  be  eaten  with  salt  or  sugar. 

Prunes,  or  French  plums,  make  a  fine  pudding 
instead  of  raisins,  either  with  suet  or  bread  pudding. 


120 


Another  and  richer. — On  half  a  pint  of  crumbs  of 
bread  pour  half  a  pint  of  scalding  milk  ;  cover  for  an 
hour.  Beat  up  four  eggs,  and  when  strained,  add  to 
the  bread,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  flour,  an  ounce  of 
butter,  two  ounces  of  sugar,  half  a  pound  of  currants, 
an  ounce  of  almonds  beaten,  with  orange-flower 
water,  half  an  ounce  of  orange,  ditto  lemon,  ditto 
citron.  Butter  a  basin  that  will  exactly  hold  it,  flour 
the  cloth,  and  tie  tight  over,  and  boil  one  hour. 

Brown  Bread  Pudding. 

Half  a  pound  of  stale  brown  bread  grated,  ditto  ot 
currants,  ditto  of  shred  suet,  sugar  and  nutmeg,  mix 
with  four  eggs,  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  and  two  spoon¬ 
fuls  of  cream  ;  boil  in  a  cloth  or  basin  that  exactly 
holds  it,  three  or  four  hours. 

Eve's  Pudding. 

Grate  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  bread  ;  mix  it 
with  the  same  quantity  of  shred  suet,  the  same  of 
apples,  and  also  of  currants  ;  mix  with  these  the 
whole  of  four  eggs,  and  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon  shred 
tine.  Put  it  into  a  shape  ;  boil  three  hours,  and  serve 
with  pudding-sauce,  thejuice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a 
little  nutmeg. 

Quaking  Pudding. 

Scald  a  quart  of  cream ;  when  almost  cold,  put 
to  it  four  eggs  well  beaten,  a  spoonful  and  a  half  of 
flour,  some  nutmegs  and  sugar;  tie  it  close  in  a  but¬ 
tered  cloth,  boil  it  an  hour,  and  turn  it  out  with  care, 
lest  it  should  crack.  Melted  butter,  a  little  wine, 
and  sugar. 

Transparent  Pudding. 

Beat  eight  eggs  very  well :  put  them  Into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar  pounded  very  fine, 
the  same  quantity  of  butter,  and  some  nutmeg  grated. 
Set  it  on  the  fire,  and  keep  stirring  it  till  it  thickens 


12. 


Then  set  it  into  a  basin  to  cool  ;  put  a  rich  putt 
paste  round  the  edge  of  the  dish  ;  pour  in  your 
pudding,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven.  It  will 
cut  light  and  clear. — You  may  add  candied  orange 
and  citron  if  you  like. 

Batter  Pudding. 

Rub  three  spoonfuls  of  fine  flour  extremely 
smooth  by  degrees  into  a  pint  of  milk  :  simmer  till 
it  thickens,  stir  in  two  ounces  of  butter,  set  it  to 
cool  ;  then  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  ;  flour  a 
cloth  that  has  been  wet,  or  butter  a  basin,  and  put 
the  batter  into  it ;  tie  it  tight,  and  plunge  it  into  boil¬ 
ing  water,  the  bottom  upwards.  Boil  it  an  hour 
and  a  half,  and  serve  with  plain  butter.  If  approv¬ 
ed,  a  little  ginger,  nutmeg,  and  lemon-peel,  may  he 
added.  Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 

Batter  Pudding  with  meat. 

Make  a  batter  with  flour,  milk,  and  eggs  ;  pour  a 
little  into  the  bottom  of  a  pudding-dish  ;  then  put 
seasoned  meat  of  any  kind  into  it,  and  a  little  shred 
onion  ;  pour  the  remainder  of  the  batter  over,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

Some  like  a  loin  of  mutton  baked  in  batter,  being 
first  cleared  of  most  of  the  fat. 

Plain  Rice  Pudding. 

Wash  and  pick  some  rice  ;  throw  among  it  some 
pimento  finely  pounded,  but  not  much  ;  tie  the  rice 
in  a  cloth,  and  leave  plenty  of  room  to  swell.  Boil 
it  in  a  quantity  of  water  for  an  hour  or  two.  When 
done,  eat  it  with  butter  and  sugar,  or  milk.  Put 
lemon-peel  if  you  please.  It  is  very  good  without 
spice,  and  eaten  with  salt  and  butter. 

A  rich  Rice  pudding. 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  water,  with  a  little  hit 
of  salt,  till  quite  tender,  drain  it  dry;  mix  it  with 

11 


1 22 


the  yolks  and  whites  of  four  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  cream,  with  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter  melted  in 
the  latter,  four  ounces  of  beef-suet  or  marrow,  or 
veal-suet  taken  from  a  fillet  of  veal,  finely  shred, 
three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  currants,  two  spoonfuls 
of  brandy,  one  of  peach-water,  or  ratafia,  nutmeg, 
and  grated  lemon-peel.  When  well  mixed,  put  a 
paste  round  the  edge  and  fill  the  dish.  Slices  of 
candied  orange,  lemon,  and  citro-n  if  approved. 
Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Rice  Pudding  with  fruit. 

Swell  the  rice  with  a  very  little  milk  over  the 
fire  ;  then  mix  fruit  of  any  kind  with  it,  (currants, 
gooseberries  scalded,  pared  and  quartered  apples, 
raisins,  or  black  currants  ;)  with  one  egg  into  the 
rice,  to  bind  it ;  boil  it  well  and  serve  with  sugar. 

Baked  Rice  Pudding. 

Swell  rice  as  above  ;  then  add  some  more  milk, 
an  egg,  sugar,  alspice,  lemon-peel.  Bake  in  a  deep 
dish. 

Jin  excellent  plain  Potato  Pudding. 

Take  eight  ounces  of  boiled  potatoes,  two  ounces 
of  butter,  the  yolks  and  whites  of  two  eggs,  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  cream,  one  spoonful  of  white  wine,  a 
morsel  of  salt,  the  juice  and  rind  of  a  lemon  :  beat 
all  to  froth  ;  sugar  to  taste.  A  crust  or  not,  as  you 
like.  Bake  it  If  wanted  richer,  put  three  ounces 
more  butter,  sweetmeats  and  almonds,  and  another 
egg. 

Potato  Pudding  with  meat. 

Boil  them  till  fit  to  mash  ;  rub  through  a  colander, 
and  make  into  a  thick  batter  with  milk  and  two  eggs. 
Lay  some  seasoned  steaks  in  a  dish,  then  some 
batter,  and  over  the  last  layer  pour  the  remainder 
of  the  butter.  Bake  a  fine  brown. 


123 


Steak  or  Kindey  Pudding. 

if  kidney,  spilt  and  soak  it,  and  season  that  or  the 
meat.  Make  a  paste  of  suet,  flour  and  milk  ;  roll 
it,  and  line  a  basin  with  some  ;  put  the  kindey  or 
steaks  in,  cover  with  paste,  and  pinch  round  the 
edge.  Cover  with  a  cloth,  and  boil  a  considerable 
time. 

Beef -steak  pudding. 

Prepare  some  fine  steaks  as  in  page  31  roll  them 
with  fat  between  :  and  if  you  approve  shred  onion, 
add  a  very  little.  Lay  a  paste  of  suet  in  a  basin, 
a  put  in  the  rollers  of  steaks  :  cover  the  basin  with 
a  paste,  and  pinch  the  edges  to  keep  the  gravy  in. 
Cover  with  a  cloth  tied  close  :  and  let  the  pudding 
boil  slowly,  but  for  a  length  of  time. 

Baked  Beef-steak  pudding. 

Make  a  batter  of  milk,  two  eggs,  and  flour,  or, 
which  is  much  better,  potatoes  boiled  and  mashed 
through  a  colander  :  lay  a  little  of  it  at  the  bottom  of 
Mie  dish  ;  then  put  in  the  steaks  prepared  as  above, 
and  very  well  seasoned  ;  pour  the  remainder  of  the 
batter  over  them  and  bake  it. 

Mutton  pudding. 

Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  bit  of  onion  :  lay 
one  layer  of  steaks  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish  ;  and 
pour  a  batter  of  potatoes  boiled  and  pressed  through 
a  colander,  and  mixed  with  milk  and  an  egg,  over 
them  ;  then  putting  the  rest  of  the  steaks  and  batter, 
bake  it. 

Batter  with  flour,  instead  of  potatoes,  eats  well, 
but  requires  more  egg,  and  is  not  so  good. 

Suet  pudding. 

Shred  a  pound  of  suet  ;  mix  with  a  pound  and  a 
quarter  of  flour,  two  eggs  beaten  separately,  a  little. 


124 


salt,  and  as  little  milk  as  will  make  it.  Boil  four 
hours.  It  eats  well  next  day,  cut  in  slices  and 
broiled. 

The  outward  fat  of  loins  or  necks  of  muttonfmely 
shred,  makes  a  more  delicate  pudding  than  suet 

Veal  suet  Pudding. 

Cut  the  crumb  of  a  three  penny  loafinto  slices,  boil 
and  sweeten  two  quarts  of  new  milk,  and  pour  over 
it.  When  soaked,  pour  out  a  little  of  the  milk  ; 
and  mix  with  six  eggs  well  beaten,  and  half  a  nut¬ 
meg.  Lay  the  slices  of  bread  into  a  dish  ;  with  lay¬ 
ers  of  currants  and  veal-suet  shred,  a  pound  of  each. 
Butter  the  dish  well,  and  bake  ;  or  you  may  boil  it 
in  a  basin,  if  you  prefer  it. 

Hunter's  Pudding. 

Mix  a  pound  of  suet,  ditto  flour,  ditto  currants,  dit¬ 
to  rasins  stoned  and  a  little  cut,  the  rind  of  half  a  le¬ 
mon  shred  as  fine  as  possible,  six  Jamaica  peppers 
in  fine  powder,  four  eggs,  a  glass  of  brandy,  a  little 
salt,  and  as  little  milk  as  will  make  it  of  a  proper 
consistence  ;  boil  it  in  a  floured  cloth,  or  melon- 
mould,  eight  or  nine  hours.  Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 
Add  sometimes  a  spoonful  ofpeach-water,  for  change 
of  flavour. 

This  pudding  will  keep  after  it  is  boiled,  six 
months,  if  kept  tied  up  in  the  same  cloth,  and  hung 
up.  folded  in  a  sheet  of  cap  paper  to  preserve  it  from 
dust,  being  first  cold.  YVhen  to  be  used,  it  must 
boil  a  full  hour. 

Plum  Pudding. 

The  same  proportions  of  flour  and  suet,  and  half 
the  quantity  of  fruit,  with  spice,  lemon,  a  glass 
of  wine  or  not,  and  one  egg,  and  milk,  will  make  an 
excellent  pudding,  if  long  boiled. 


125 


Custard  Pudding. 

Mix  by  degrees  a  pint  of  good  milk  with  a  large 
spoonful  of  flour,  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  some 
orange-flower  water,  and  a  little  pounded  cinnamon. 
Butter  a  basin  that  will  exactly  hold  it,  pour  the  bat¬ 
ter  in,  and  tie  a  floured  cloth  over.  Put  in  boiling 
water  over  the  fire,  and  turn  it  about  a  few  minutes 
to  prevent  the  egg  going  to  one  side.  Half  an  hour 
will  boil  it. 

Put  currant  jelly  on  it,  and  serve  with  sweet-sauce. 

Macaroni  Pudding. 

Simmer  an  ounce  or  two  of  the  pipe-sort,  in  a  pint 
of  milk,  and  a  bit  of  lemon  and  cinnamon,  till  tender  ; 
put  it  into  a  dish,  with  milk,  two  or  three  eggs,  but 
only  one  white,  sugar,  nutmeg,  a  spoonful  of  peach- 
water,  and  half  a  glass  of  raisin  wine.  Bake  with  a 
paste  round  the  edges. 

A  layer  of  orange-marmalade,  or  raspberry -jam, 
in  a  macaroni  pudding  for  change,  is  a  great  im¬ 
provement,  in  which  case  omit  the  almond-water,  or 
ratafia,  which  you  would  otherwise  flavour  it  with. 

An  excellent  Apricot  Pudding. 

Halve  twelve  large  apricots,  give  them  a  scald  till 
they  are  soft ;  mean  lime  pour  on  the  grated  crumbs 
of  a  penny  loaf,  a  pint  of  boiling  cream  ;  when  half¬ 
cold,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  the  yolks  of  four  beaten 
eggs,  and  a  glass  of  white-wine.  Pound  the  apri¬ 
cots  in  a  mortar,  with  some  or  all  of  the  kernels  ; 
mix  then  the  fruit  and  other  ingredients  together  ; 
put  a  paste  round  a  dish,  and  bake  the  pudding  half 
an  hour. 

Baked  Gooseberry  Pudding. 

Stew  gooseberries  in  a  jar  over  a  hot  hearth,  or  in 
a  sauce-pan  of  water,  till  they  will  pulp.  Take  a 

11*  ? 


126 


pint  of  the  juice  pressed  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and 
beat  it  with  three  yolks  and  whites  of  eggs  beaten  and 
strained,  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  ;  sweeten  it 
well,  and  put  a  crust  round  the  dish.  A  few  crumbs 
of  roll  should  be  mixed  with  the  above  to  give  a  lit¬ 
tle  consistence,  or  four  ounces  of  Naples  biscuit. 

Brandy  Pudding. 

Line  a  mould  with  jar-raisins,  stoned  or  dried  cher¬ 
ries,  then  with  thin  slices  of  French  roll,  next  to 
which  put  ratafias,  or  macaroons  ;  then  the  fruit, 
rolls,  and  cakes,  in  succession  until  the  mould  be 
full  ;  sprinkling  in  at  times  two  glasses  of  brandy. 
Beat  four  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  ;  put  to  a  pint  of 
milk  or  cream,  lightly  sweetened,  half  a  nutmeg,  and 
the  rind  of  half  a  lemon  finely  grated.  Let  the  li¬ 
quid  sink  into  the  solid  part  ;  then  flour  a  cloth,  tie 
it  tight  over,  and  boil  one  hour ;  keep  the  mould 
the  right  side  up.  Serve  with  pudding-sauce. 

Boiled  Curd  Pudding. 

Rub  the  curd  of  two  gallons  of  milk  well  drained 
through  a  sieve.  Mix  it  with  six  eggs,  a  little  cream, 
two  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water,  half  a  nut¬ 
meg,  flour  and  crumbs  of  bread  each  three  spoon¬ 
fuls,  currants  and  raisins  half  a  pound  each.  Boil 
an  hour  in  a  thick  well-floured  cloth. 

Pippin  pudding. 

Coddle  six  pippins  in  vine-leaves  covered  with 
water,  very  gently,  that  the  inside  be  done  without 
rebakiig  the  skins.  When  soft,  skin,  and  with  a  tea¬ 
spoon  take  the  pulp  from  the  core.  Press  it  through 
a  colander  ;  add  two  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower 
water,  three  eggs  beaten,  a  glass  of  raisin-wine,  a 
pint  of  scalded  cream,  sugar  and  nutmeg  to  taste. 
Lay  a  thin  puff  prate  at  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the 
dish  :  shred  ver  thin  lemon-peel  as  fine  as  possi- 


127 


ble,  and  put  it  into  the  dish  ;  likewise  lenv>ti,  orange, 
and  citron,  in  small  slices,,  but  not  so  thin  as  to  dis¬ 
solve  in  baking. 

A  quick  made  pudding. 

Flour  and  suet  half  a  pound  each,  four  eggs,  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  new  milk,  a  little  mace  and  nut¬ 
meg,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raisins,  ditto  of  cur¬ 
rants  :  mix  well,  and  boil  three  quarters  of  an  hour 
with  the  cover  of  the  pot  on,  or  it  will  require 
longer. 

Russian  seed ,  or  ground  Rice  pudding. 

Boil  a  large  spoonful  heaped,  of  either,  in  a  pint 
of  new  milk,  with  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon.  When 
cold  add  sugar,  nutmeg  and  two  eggs  well  beaten. 
Bake  with  a  crust  around  the  dish. 

A  Welsh  pudding. 

Let  half  a  pound  of  fine  butter  melt  gently,  beat 
with  it  the  yolks  of  eight  and  whites  of  four  eggs, 
mix  in  six  ounces  of  loaf  sugar,  and  the  rind  of  a 
lemon  grated.  Put  a  paste  into  a  dish  for  turning 
out,  and  pour  the  above  in,  and  nicely  bake  it. 

Suet  Dumplings. 

Make  as  suet  pudding,  and  drop  into  boiling 
water,  or  into  the  boiling  of  beef ;  or  you  may 
boil  them  in  a  cloth. 

Apple,  Currant,  o  r  Damson  dumplings :  or  puddings. 

Make  as  above,  and  line  a  basin  with  a  paste 
tolerably  thin  ;  fill  with  the  fruit,  and  cover  it;  tie 
a  cloth  over  tight,  and  boil  till  the  fruit  shall  be  done 
enough. 

Yeast  or  Suffolk  Dumplings. 

Make  a  very  light  dough  with  yeast,  as  for  bread, 
but  with  milk  instead  of  water,  and  put  salt.  Let  it 
rise  an  hour  before  the  fire. 

Twenty  minutes  before  you  are  to  serve,  have 


128 


••eady  a  large  stew-pan  of  boiling  water  ;  make  the 
dough  into  balls,  the  size  of  a  middling  apple ; 
throw  them  in,  and  boil  twenty  minutes.  If  you 
doubt  when  done  enough,  stick  a  clean  fork  into 
one,  and  if  it  come  out  clear,  it  is  done. 

The  way  to  eat  them  is,  to  tear  them  apart  on  the 
top  with  two  forks,  for  they  become  heavy  by  theii 
own  steam.  Eat  immediately  with  meat,  sugar  and 
butter,  or  salt. 

Common  Pancakes. 

Make  a  light  batter  of  eggs,  flour  and  milk.  Fry 
in  a  small  pan,  in  hot  dripping  or  lard.  Salt  or  nut¬ 
meg  and  ginger,  may  be  added.  Sugar  and  lemon 
should  be  served  to  eat  with  them.  Or,  when  eggs 
are  scarce,  make  the  batter  with  flour,  and  small 
beer,  ginger,  &.c.  or  clean  snow,  with  flour,  and  a 
very  little  milk,  will  serve  as  w  ell  as  egg. 

Fine  Pancakes,  without  butter  or  lard. 

Beat  six  fresh  eggs,  extremely  well  ,  mix,  when 
strained,  with  a  pint  of  cream,  four  ounces  of  sugar, 
a  glass  of  wine,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  and  as  much 
flour  as  will  make  it  almost  as  thick  as  ordinary  pan¬ 
cake-batter,  but  not  quite.  Heat  the  frying  pan 
tolerably  hot,  wipe  it  with  a  clean  cloth  ■,  then  pour 
in  the  batter  to  make  thin  pancakes. 

Pancakes  of  Rice. 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  rice  to  a  jelly,  in  a  small 
quantity  of  water  :  w'hen  cold,  mix  it  with  a  pint  of 
cream,  eight  eggs,  a  bit  of  salt,  and  nutmeg ;  stir  in 
eight  ounces  of  butter  just  warmed,  and  add  as  much 
flour  as  will  make  the  batter  thick  enough.  Fry  in 
as  little  lard  or  dripping  as  possible. 

New-EnglanJ  Pancakes. 

Mix  a  pint  of  cream,  five  spoonfuls  of  fine  flour  , 


129 


seven  yolks,  and  four  whites  of  eggs,  and  a  very  lit¬ 
tle  salt ;  fry  them  very  thin  in  fresh  butter,  and  be¬ 
tween  each  strew  sugar  and  cinnamon.  Send  up 
six  or  eight  at  once. 

Fritters. 

Make  them  of  any  of  the  batters  directed  for  pan¬ 
cakes,  by  dropping  a  small  quantity  into  the  pan  ; 
or  make  the  plainer  sort,  and  put  pared  apple  sliced 
and  cored  into  the  batter,  and  fry  some  of  it  with  each 
slice.  Currants  or  sliced  lemons  as  thin  as  paper, 
make  an  agreeable  change.  Fritters  for  company 
should  be  served  on  a  folded  napkin  in  the  dish. 
Any  sort  of  sweatmeats,  or  ripe  fruit,  may  be  made 
into  fritters. 

Spanish  Fritters. 

Cut  the  crumb  of  a  French  roll  into  lengths,  as 
thick  as  your  finger,  in  what  shape  you  will.  Soak 
in  some  cream,  nutmeg,  sugar,  pounded  cinnamon, 
and  an  egg.  When  well  soaked,  fry  of  a  nice  brown  ; 
and  serve  with  butter,  wine,  and  sugar-sauce. 

Potato  Fritters. 

Boil  two  large  potatoes,  scrape  them  fine  ;  beat 
four  yolks  and  three  whites  of  eggs,  and  add  to  the 
above  one  large  spoonful  of  cream,  another  of  sweet 
wine,  a  squeeze  of  lemon,  and  a  little  nutmeg. 
Beat  this  batter  half  an  hour  at  least.  It  will  be  ex¬ 
tremely  light. 

Put  a  good  quantity  of  fine  lard  in  a  stew-pan, 
and  drop  a  spoonful  of  the  batter  at  a  time  into  it. 
Fry  them  ;  and  serve  as  a  sauce,  a  glass  of  white 
wine,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  one  dessert-spoonful  of 
peach-leaf  or  almond -water,  and  some  white  sugar, 
warmed  together  ;  not  to  be  served  in  the  dish. 


130 


'  *■>  PASTRY. 

Rich  puff  paste 

Puffs  may  be  made  of  any  sort  of  fruit,  but  it 
should  be  prepared  first  with  sugar. 

Weigh  an  equal  quantity  of  butter  with  as  much 
fine  flour  as  you  judge  necessary  ;  mix  a  little  of  the 
former  with  the  latter,  and  wet  it  with  as  little  water 
as  will  make  it  into  a  stiff  paste.  Roll  it  out,  and 
put  all  the  butter  over  it  in  slices,  turn  in  the  ends, 
and  roll  it  thin  :  do  this  twice,  and  touch  it  no  more 
than  can  be  avoided.  The  butter  may  be  added  at 
twice,  and  to  those  who  are  not  accustomed  to  make 
paste,  it  may  be  better  to  do  so. 

A  quicker  oven  than  for  short  crust. 

A  less  rich  paste. 

Weigh  a  pound  of  flour,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  rub  them  together,  and  mix  into  a  paste 
with  a  little  water,  and  an  egg  well  beaten — of  the 
former  as  little  as  will  suffice,  or  the  paste  will  be 
tough.  Roll,  and  fold  it  three  or  four  times. 

Rub  extremely  fine  in  one  pound  of  dried  flour, 
six  *’nces  of  butter,  and  a  spoonful  of  white  sugar  ; 
work  up  the  whole  into  a  stiff  paste  with  as  little  hot 
water  as  possible. 

Crust  for  Venison  pastry. 

To  a  quarter  of  a  peck  of  fine  flour  use  two  pounds 
and  a  half  of  butter,  and  four  eggs  ;  mix  into  paste 
with  warm  water,  and  work  it  smooth  and  to  a  good 
consistence.  Put  a  paste  round  the  inside,  but  not 
to  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  let  the  cover  be  pret¬ 
ty  thick,  to  bear  the  long  continuance  in  the  oven. 

Rice  paste  for  sweets. 

Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ground  rice  in  the 
.smallest  quantity  of  water :  strain  from  it  all  the 


moisture  as  well  as  you  can  ;  beat  it  in  a  mortar  with 
half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  one  egg  well  beaten, 
and  it  will  make  an  excellent  paste  for  tarts,  &c. 

Rice  paste  for  relishing  things. 

Clean  and  put  some  rice,  with  an  onion,  and  a  lit¬ 
tle  water  and  milk,  or  milk  only,  into  a  sauce-pan, 
and  simmer  till  it  swell.  Put  seasoned  chops  into  a 
dish,  and  cover  it  with  the  rice  ;  by  the  addition  of 
an  egg,  the  rice  will  adhere  the  better. 

Rabbits  fricasseed  and  covered  thus,  are  very  good-. 

Potato  paste. 

Pound  boiled  potatoes  very  fine,  and  add,  while 
warm,  a  sufficiency  of  butter  to  make  the  mash  hold 
together,  or  you  may  mix  with  it  an  egg  ;  then  before 
/tgets  cold,  Hour  the  board  pretty  well  to  prevent  it 
from  slicking,  and  roll  it  to  the  thickness  wanted. 

If  it  is  become  quite  cold  before  it  be  put  on  the 
dish,  it  will  be  apt  to  crack. 

Raised  crust  for  Custards  or  Fruit. 

Put  four  ounces  of  butter  into  a  sauce-pan,  with 
water,  and  when  it  boils,  pour  it  into  as  much  flour 
as  you  choose  ;  knead  and  beat  it.  Cover  it.  Raise 
it ;  and  if  for  custard,  put  a  paper  within  to  keep 
out  the  sides  till  half-done,  then  fill  with  a  cold  mix¬ 
ture  of  milk,  egg,  sugar,  and  a  little  peach-water, 
lemon-peel  or  nutmeg.  By  cold  is  meant  that  the 
egg  is  not  to  be  warmed,  but  the  milk  should  be 
warmed  by  itself — not  to  spoil  the  crust. 

The  above  butter  will  make  a  great  deal  of  raised 
crust,  which  must  not  be  rich,  or  it  will  be  difficult 
to  prevent  the  sides  from  falling. 

Excellent  short  Crust. 

Make  two  ounces  of  white  sugar,  pounded  and 
sifted  quite  dry  ;  then  mix  it  with  a  pound  of  flour 


132 


well  dried,  rub  into  it  three  ounces  of  butter,  so 
tine  as  not  to  be  seen — into  some  cream  put  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  beaten,  and  mix  the  above  into  a  smooth 
paste  ;  roll  it  thin,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven 

Another. — Mix  with  a  pound  of  fine  flour  dried, 
an  ounce  of  sugar  pounded  and  sifted,  then  crumble 
three  ounces  of  butter  in  it,  till  it  looks  all  like  flour, 
and  with  a  gill  of  boiling  cream,  work  it  up  to  a  fine 
paste. 

A  very  fine  Crust  for  Orange  Cheesecakes ,  or  Sweet- 
meats,  when  to  be  particularly  nice. 

Dry  a  pound  of  the  finest  flour,  mix  with  it  three 
ounces  of  refined  sugar  ;  then  work  half  a  pound  of 
butter  with  your  hand  till  it  come  to  froth  ;  put  the 
flour  into  it  by  degrees,  and  work  into  it,  well  beaten 
and  strained,  the  yolks  of  three  and  whites  of  two 
eggs.  If  too  limber,  put  some  flour  and  sugar  to 
make  it  fit  to  roll.  Line  your  pattypans,  and  fill. 
A  little  above  fifteen  minutes  will  bake  them. 
Against  they  come  out,  have  ready  some  refined  su¬ 
gar  beat  up  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  as  thick  as  you 
can  ;  ice  them  all  over,  set  them  in  the  oven  to 
harden,  and  serve  cold.  Use  fresh  butter. 

Salt  butter  will  make  a  very  fine  flaky  crust ;  but 
if  for  mince-pies,  or  any  sweet  things,  should  be 
washed. 

Observations  on  Pastry. 

An  adept  in  pastry  never  leaves  any  part  of  it  ad¬ 
hering  to  the  board,  or  dish,  used  in  making.  It  is 
best  when  rpHed  on  marble,  or  a  very  large  slate. 
In  very  hot  weather,  the  butter  should  be  put  into 
cold  water  to  make  it  as  firm  as  possible ;  and  if 
made  early  in  the  morning,  and  preserved  from  the 
air  until  it  is  to  be  baked,  the  cook  will  find  it  much 
better.  A  good  hand  at  pastry  will  use  much  less 


133 


butter,  and  produce  lighter  crust,  than  others.  Salt 
butter,  if  very  good  and  well  washed,  makes  a  fine 
flaky  crust. 

Apple  Pic. 

Pare  and  core  the  fruit,  having  wiped  the  outside  ; 
which,  with  the  cores,  boil  with  a  little  water  till  it 
taste  well  :  strain  and  put  a  little  sugar,  and  a  bit  of 
bruised  cinnamon,  and  simmer  again.  In  the  mean 
time  place  the  apples  in  a  dish,  a  paste  being  put 
round  the  edge  ;  when  one  la^er  is  in,  sprinkle  half 
the  sugar,  and  shred  lemon-peel,  and  squeeze  some 
juice,  or  a  glass  of  cider.  If  the  apples  have  lost 
their  spirit,  put  in  the  rest  of  the  apples,  sugar,  and 
the  liquor  that  you  have  boiled.  Cover  with  paste. 
You  may  add  some  butter  when  cut,  if  eaten  hot ; 
or  put  quince-marmalade  ;  orange-paste,  or  cloves, 
to  flavour. 

Hot  Apple  Pie, — Make  with  the  fruit  ;  sugar,  and 
a  clove,  and  put  a  bit  of  butter  in  when  cut  open. 

Cherry  Pie,  * 

Should  have  a  mixture  of  other  fruit ;  currant^ 
or  raspberries,  or  both.  • 

Currant  Pie. 

With  or  without  raspberries. 

Mince  Pie. 

Of  scraped  beef  free  from  the  skin  and  strings, 
weigh  21b,  41b  of  suet  picked  and  chopped,  then 
add  61b  of  currants  nicely  cleaned  anchperfectly  dry, 
31b  of  chopped  apples,  the  peel  and  juice  of  two  le¬ 
mons,  a  pint  of  sweet  wine,  a  nutmeg,  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  cloves,  ditto  mace,  ditto  pimento,  iu 
finest  powder :  press  the  whole  into  a  deep  pan 
when  well  mixed  ;  and  keep  it  covered  in  a  cool 
dry  place.  Half  the  quantity  is  enough,  unless  for 
a  very  large  family. 


18 


134 


Have  citron,  orange,  and  lemon-peel  ready,  and 
put  some  of  each  in  the  pies  when  made. 

Mince  pies  without  meat. 

Of  the  best  apples  six  pounds,  pared,  cored,  and 
minced  :  of  fresh  suet,  and  raisins  stone  ,  each 
three  pounds,  likewise  minced  :  to  these  add  of 
mace  and  cinnamon,  a  quarter  of  an  ounc  1  each, 
and  eight  cloves,  in  finest  powder,  three  pounds  of 
the  finest  powder  sugar,  three  quarters  of  an  ounce 
of  salt,  the  rinds  of  four  and  juice  of  two  lemons, 
half  a  pint  of  port,  the  same  of  brandy.  Mix  well,- 
and  put  intq  a  deep  pan. 

Have  read}'  washed  and  dried  four  pounds  of  cur¬ 
rants,  and  add  as  you  make  the  pies,  with  candied 
fruit. 

Lemon  Mince  pies. 

Squeeze  a  large  lemon,  boil  the  outside  till  ten¬ 
der  enough  to  beat  to  a  mash,  add  to  it  three  large 
apples  chopped,  and  four  ounces  of  suet,  half  a 
pound  of  currants,  four  ounces  of  sugar  ;  put  the 
juice  of  the  lemon,  and  candied  fruit,  as  for  other 
pies.  Make  a  short  crust,  and  fill  the  pattypans  as 
usual. 

Egg  Mince  pies. 

Boil  six  eggs  hard,  shred  them  small  ;  shred 
oouble  the  quantity  of  suet ;  then  put  currants 
washed  and  pickled,  one  pound,  or  more  if  the  eggs 
were  large  ;  the  peel  of  one  lemon  shred  very  fine, 
and  the  juice,  six  spoonfuls  of  sweet  wine,  mace, 
nutmeg,  sugar,  a  very  little  salt ;  orange,  lemon, 
and  citron,  candied.  Make  a  light  paste  for  them. 

Currant  and  Raspberry. 

For  a  tart,  line  the  dish,  put  sugar  and  fruit,  lay 
Lars  across,  and  bake 


135 


Light  Paste  for  Tarts  and  Cheesecakes . 

Beat  the  white  of  an  egg  to  a  strong  froth,  then 
mix  it  with  as  much  water  as  will  make  three  quar¬ 
ters  of  a  pound  of  fine  flour  into  a  very  sfiff  paste  ; 
roll  it  very  thin,  then  lay  the  third  part  of  half  a 
pound  of  butter  upon  it  in  little  bits  ;  dredge  it  with 
some  flour  left  out  at  first,  and  roll  it  up  tight.  Roll 
it  out  again,  and  put  the  same  proportion  of  butter  ; 
and  so  proceed  till  all  be  worked  up. 

Iceingfor  Tarts. 

Beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and  some  melted  butter 
well  together,  wash  the  tarts  with  a  feather,  and  sift 
sugar  over  as  you  put  them  into  the  oven.  Or  beat 
white  of  egg,  wash  the  paste,  and  sift  white  sugar. 

Pippin  Tarts. 

Pare  thin  two  Seville  or  China  oranges,  boil  the 
peel  tender  and  shred  it  fine  :  pare  and  core  twenty 
apples,  put  them  in  a  stew-pan,  and  as  little  water  as 
possible  ;  when  half-done,  add  half  a  pound  of  su¬ 
gar,  the  orange-peel  and  juice  ;  boil  (ill  pretty  thick. 
When  cold,  put  it  in  a  shallow  disk,  or  pattypans 
lined  with  paste,  to  turn  out,  and  be  eaten  cold. 

Prune  Tart. 

Give  prunes  a  scald,  take  out  the  stones  and  break 
them  ;  put  the  kernels  into  a  little  cranberry-juice, 
with  the  prunes  and  sugar,  simmer :  and  when  cold 
make  a  tart  of  the  sweetmeat. 

Orange  Tart. 

Squeeze,  pulp,  and  boil  two  Seville  oranges  ten¬ 
der,  weigh  them,  and  double  of  sugar  ;  beat  both  to 
gether  to  a  paste,  and  then  add  the  juice  and  pulp  of 
the  fruit,  and  the  size  of  a  walnut  of  fresh  butter,  and 
beat  all  together.  Choose  a  very  shallow  dish,  line 
it  with  a  light  puff  crust,  and  lay  the  paste  ot  orange 

■*  You  may  ice  it. 


Codlin  Tart. 

Scald  the  fruit  as  will  be  directed  under  that  arti¬ 
cle  ;  when  ready,  take  off  the  thin  skin,  and  lay  them 
whole  in  a  dish,  put  a  little  of  the  water  that  the  ap¬ 
ples  were  boiled  in  at  bottom,  strew  them  over  with 
lump  sugar  or  fine  Lisbon  :  when  cold,  put  a  paste 
round  the  edges  and  over. 

You  may  wet  it  with  white  of  egg,  and  strew  su¬ 
gar  over,  which  looks  well  :  or  cut  the  lid  in  quar¬ 
ters,  without  touching  the  paste  on  the  edge  of  the 
dish  ;  and  either  put  the  broad  end  downwards,  and 
make  the  point  stand  up,  or  remove  the  lid  alto¬ 
gether.  Pour  a  good  custard  over  it  when  cold  ; 
sift  sugar  over. 

Or  line  the  bottom  of  a  shallow  dish  w’ith  paste, 
lay  the  apples  in  it,  sweeten,  and  lay  little  twists  of 
paste  over  in  bars. 

Raspberry  Tart  with  Cream. 

Roll  out  some  thin  puff-paste,  and  lay  it  in  a  patty¬ 
pan  of  what  size  you  choose  ;  put  in  raspberries  ; 
strew  over  them  fine  sugar  ;  cover  with  a  thin  lid, 
and  then  bake.  Cut  it  open;  and  have  ready  the 
following  mixture,  warm  ;  half  a  pint  of  cream,  the 
yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs  well  beaten,  and  a  little 
sugar  ;  and  when  this  is  added  to  the  tart,  return  it 
to  the  oven  for  five  or  six  minutes. 

Fried  Patties. 

Mince  a  bit  of  cold  veal,  and  six  oysters  ;  mix  with 
a  few  crumbs  of  bread  ;  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and 
a  very  small  bit  of  lemon-peel — add  the  liquor  of  the 
oysters  ;  warm  all  in  a  tosser,  but  do  not  boil ;  let  it 
go  cold  :  have  ready  a  good  puff  paste,  roll  thin, 
and  cut  it  in  round  or  square  bits ;  put  some  of  the 
above  between  two  of  them,  twist  the  edges  to  keep 


137 


in  the  gravy,  and  fry  them  of  a  fine  brown.  Wash 
all  patties  over  with  egg  before  baking. 

Oyster  Patties. 

Put  a  fine  puff-crust  into  small  patty-pans,  and 
cover  with  paste,  with  a  bit  of  bread  in  each  ;  and 
against  they  are  baked  have  ready  the  following  to 
fill  with,  taking  out  the  bread.  Take  off  the  beards 
of  the  oysters,  cut  the  other  parts  in  small  bits  ;  put 
them  in  a  small  tosser  with  a  grate  of  nutmeg,  the 
least  white  pepper  and  salt,  a  morsel  of  lemon-peel  ; 
cut  so  small  that  you  can  scarcely  see  it,  a  little 
cream,  and  a  little  of  the  oyster  liquor.  Simmer  a 
few  minutes  before  you  fill.  Observe  to  put  a  bit 
of  crust  into  all  patties,  to  keep  them  hollow  while 
baking. 

Lobster  Patties. 

Make  with  the  same  seasoning,  a  little  cream,  and 
the  smallest  bit  of  butter. 

Podovies,  or  Beef  Patties. 

Shred  under-done  dressed  beef  with  a  little  fat, 
season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  shallot  or  onion. 
Make  a  plain  paste,  roll  it  thin,  and  cut  in  shape 
like  an  apple  puff,  fill  it  with  mince,  pinch  the  edges, 
and  fry  them  of  .1  nice  brown.  The  paste  should  be 
made  with  a  small  quantity  of  butter,  egg,  and  milk. 

Veal  Patties. 

Mince  some  veal  that  is  not  quite  done,  with  a  lit¬ 
tle  parsley,  lemon-peel,  a  scrape  of  nutmeg,  and  a 
bit  of  salt ;  add  a  little  cream  and  gravy  just  to  mois¬ 
ten  the  meat  ;  and  if  you  have  any  ham,  scrape  a 
little,  and  add  to  it.  Do  not  warm  it  till  the  patties 
are  baked. 

Turkey  Patties. 

Mince  some  of  the  white  part,  and  with  grated 
lemon,  nutmeg,  salt,  a  very  little  white  pepper, 

1 2* 


133 

cream,  and  a  very  little  bit  of  butter  warmed,  fill  the 
patties. 

Sweet  Patties. 

Chop  the  meat  of  a  boiled  calf’s  foot,  of  whicn 
you  use  the  liquor  for  jelly,  two  apples,  one  ounce 
of  orange  and  lemon-peel  candied,  and  some  freSh 
peel  and  juice  ;  mix  with  them  half  a  nutmeg  grated, 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  and  four 
ounces  of  currants  washed  and  dried.  Bake  in  small 
pattypans. 

Patties  resembling  Mince  Pies. 

Chop  tne  kidney  and  fat  of  cold  veal,  apple, 
orange  and  lemon-peel  candied,  and  fresh  currants, 
a  little  wine,  two  or  three  cloves,  a  little  brandy, 
and  a  bit  of  sugar.  Bake  as  before 

Apple  Puffs. 

Fare  the  fruit,  and  either  stew  them  in  a  stone 
jar  on  a  hot  hearth,  or  bake  them.  When  cold,  mix 
the  pulp  of  the  apple  with  sugar  and  lemon-peel, 
shred  fine,  taking  as  little  of  the  apple  juice  as  you 
can.  Bake  them  in  a  thin  paste,  in  a  quick  oven  ;  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  will  do  them,  if  small.  Orange 
or  quince  marmalade  is  a  great  improvement.  Cin¬ 
namon  pounded,  or  orange-flower  water,  in  change. 

Lemon  Puffs. 

Beat  and  sift  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  double-re¬ 
fined  sugar  ;  grate  the  rind  of  two  large  lemons,  and 
mix  it  well  with  sugar  :  then  beat  the  whites  of 
three  new-laid  eggs  a  great  while,  add  them  to  the 
sugar  and  peel,  and  beat  it  for  an  hour  ;  make  it  up 
in  any  shape  you  please,  and  bake  it  on  paper  put  on 
tin  plates,  in  a  moderate  oven.  Do  not  remove  the 
paper  till  cold.  Oiling;  the  paper  will  make  it  come 
off  with  ease. 


139 


Cheese  P'ffs. 

Strain  cheese-curd  from  the  whey,  and  beat  half  a 
pint  basin  of  it  fine  in  a  mortar,  with  a  spoonful  and 
a  halfofflour,  three  eggs,  but  only  one  white,  a  spoon¬ 
ful  of  orange-flower  water,  a  quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  and 
sugar  to  make  it  pretty  sweet.  Lay  a  little  of  this 
paste  in  very  small  round  cakes,  on  a  tin  plate.  If 
the  oven  is  hot,  a  quarter  of  an  hour  will  bake  them. 
Serve  with  pudding-sauce. 

Excellent  light  Puffs. 

Mix  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  little  grated  lemon- 
peel,  some  nutmeg,  half  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  a  lit¬ 
tle  loaf  sugar,  and  one  egg  ;  then  fry  it  enough,  but 
not  brown  ;  beat  it  in  a  mortal  with  five  eggs,  whites 
and  yolks  ;  put  a  quantity  of  lard  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
when  quite  hot,  drop  a  dessert-spoonful  of  butter  at  a 
time  :  turn  as  they  brown.  Serve  them  immediate¬ 
ly  with  sweet  sauce. 

To  preserve  Venison  for  Pasty. 

Take  the  bones  out,  then  season  and  beat  the  meat, 
lay  it  into  a  stone  jar  in  large  pieces,  pour  upon  it 
some  plain  drawn  beef  gravy,  but  not  a  strong  one, 
lay  the  bones  on  the  top,  then  set  the  jar  in  a  water- 
bath,  that  is,  a  sauce-pan  of  water  over  the  fire,  sim¬ 
mer  three  or  four  hours — then  leave  it  in  a  cold 
place  till  next  day.  Remove  the  cake  of  fat,  lay  the 
meat  in  handsome  pieces  on  the  dish  ;  if  not  suffi¬ 
ciently  seasoned,  add  more  pepper,  salt,  or  pimento, 
as  necessary.  Put  some  of  the  gravy,  and  keep  the 
remainder  for  the  time  of  serving.  If  the  venison 
be  thus  prepared,  it  will  not  require  so  much  time 
to  bake,  or  such  a  very  thick  crust  as  is  usual,  and 
by  which  the  under  part  is  seldom  done  through. 

Venison  Pasty. 

A  shoulder  boned  makes  a  good  pasty,  but  it  must 


140 


be  beaten  and  seasoned,  and  the  want  of  fat  supplied 
by  that  of  a  fine  well-hung  loin  of  mutton,  steeped 
twenty-four  hours  in  equal  parts  of  raDe,  vinegar, 
and  port. 

The  shoulder  being  sinewy,  it  will  be  of  advan¬ 
tage  to  rub  it  well  with  sugar  for  two  or  three  days  ; 
and  when  to  be  used,  wipe  it  perfectly  clean  from  it, 
and  the  wine. 

A  mistake  used  to  prevail,  that  venison  could  not 
be  baked  too  much  ;  but,  as  above  directed,  three 
or  four  hours  in  a  slow  oven  will  be  sufficient  to  make 
it  tender,  and  the  flavour  will  be  preserved.  Either 
in  shoulder  or  side,  the  meat  must  be  cut  in  pieces, 
and  laid  with  fat  between,  that  it  may  be  proportion¬ 
ed  to  each  person,  without  breaking  np  the  pasty  to 
find  it.  Lay  some  pepper  and  salt  at  the  bottom  of 
the  dish,  and  some  butter  ;  then  the  meat  nicely 
packed,  that  it  may  be  sufficiently  done,  but  not  lie 
hollow  to  harden  at  the  edges. 

The  venison  bones  should  be  boiled  with  some 
fine  old  mutton  ;  of  this  gravy  put  half  a  pint  cold 
into  the  dish  ;  then  lay  butter  on  the  venison,  and 
cover,  as  well  as  line  the  sides  with  a  thick  cru6t, 
but  do  not  put  one  under  the  meat.  Keep  the  re¬ 
mainder  of  the  gravy  till  the  pastry  comes  from  the 
oven  ;  put  it  into  the  middle  by  a  funnel  quite  hot, 
and  shake  the  dish  to  mix  well.  It  should  be  sea¬ 
soned  with  pepper  and  salt. 

To  make  a  Pasty  of  Beef  or  Mutton ,  to  eat  as  well 
as  Venison. 

Bone  a  small  rump  or  apiece  of  sirloin  of  beef,  or 
a  fat  loin  of  mutton,  after  hanging  several  days. — 
Beat  it  very  well  with  a  rolling-pin,  then  rub  ten 
pounds  of  meat  with  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and  pour 
ovpr  it  a  glass  of  port,  and  the  same  of  vinegar.  Let 


141 


it  lie  live  days  and  nights ;  wash  and  wipe  the  meat 
very  dry,  and  season  it  very  high  with  pepper,  Ja¬ 
maica  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  salt.  Lay  it  in  your  dish, 
and  to  ten  pounds  put  one  pound  or  near  of  butter, 
spreading  it  over  the  meat.  Put  a  crust  round  the 
edges  and  cover  with  a  thick  one,  or  it  will  be  over¬ 
done  before  the  meat  be  soaked  :  it  must  be  done  in 
a  slow  oven. 

Set  the  bones  in  a  pan  in  the  oven,  with  no  more 
water  than  will  cover  them,  and  one  glass  of  port,  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  that  you  may  have  a  little  rich 
gravy  to  add  to  the  pasty  when  drawn. 

Note . — Sugar  gives  a  greater  shortness,  and  better 
flavour  to  meats  than  salt,  too  great  a  quantity  of 
which  hardens — and  it  is  quite  as  great  a  preserva¬ 
tive. 

Potato  Pasty. 

Boil,  peel,  and  mash  potatoes  as  fine  as  possible  ; 
mix  them  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  good  bit  of  butter. 
Make  a  paste  :  roll  it  out  thin  like  a  large  puff,  and 
put  in  the  potato  ;  fold  over  one  half,  pinching  the 
edges.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Cheap  and  excellent  Custards. 

Boil  three  pints  of  new  milk,  w  ith  a  bit  of  lemon- 
peel,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  two  or  three  bay-leaves,  and 
sweeten  it.  Meanwhile  rub  down  smooth,  a  large 
spoonful  of  rice-flour  into  a  cup  of  cold  milk,  and 
mix  with  it  two  yolks  of  eggs  well  beaten.  Take  a 
basin  of  the  boiling  milk  and  mix  with  the  cold,  and 
then  pour  that  to  the  boiling  ;  stirring  it  one  way 
till  it  begins  to  thicken,  and  is  just  going  to  boil  up  ; 
and  then  pour  it  into  a  pan,  stir  it  some  time,  add  a 
large  spoonful  of  peach-water,  two  spoonfuls  of  bran¬ 
dy,  or  a  little  ratafia. 

Marbles  boiled  in  custard,  or  any  thing  likely  to 


142 

burn,  will,  by  snamug  them  m  the  sauce-pan,  pxe* 
vent  it  from  catching. 

Rich  Custard. 

Boil  a  pint  of  milk  with  lemon-peel  and  cinnamon, 
mix  a  pint  of  cream,  and  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  well 
beaten  ;  when  the  milk  tastes  ofthe  seasoning,  sweet¬ 
en  it  enough  for  the  whole  ;  pour  it  into  the  cream, 
stirring  it  well  ;  then  give  the  custard  a  simmer  till 
of  a  proper  thickness.  Do  not  let  it  boil  ;  stir  the 
whole  time  one  way  ;  season  as  above.  If  to  be  ex¬ 
tremely  rich,  put  no  milk,  but  a  quart  of  cream  to 
the  egg. 

Baked  Custard. 

Boil  one  pint  of  cream,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  with 
mace,  cinnamon,  and  lemon-peel,  a  little  of  each. — 
When  cold,  mix  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  ;  sweeten, 
and  make  your  cups  or  paste  nearly  full.  Bake  them 
ten  minutes. 

Lemon  Custard. 

Beat  the  yo  ks  of  eight  eggs  till  they  are  as  white 
as  milk  ;  then  put  to  them  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  the 
rinds  of  two  lemons  grated,  and  the  juice  sweetened 
to  your  taste.  Stir  it  on  the  fire  till  thick  enough  ; 
then  add  a  large  glass  of  rich  wine,  and  half  a  glass 
of  brandy  ;  give  the  whole  one  scald,  and  put  in 
cups  to  be  eaten  cold. 

Almond  Custard. 

Blanch  and  beat  four  ounces  of  almonds  fine,  with 
a  spoonful  of  water  ;  beat  a  pint  of  cream  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  rose-water,  and  put  them  to  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs,  and  as  much  sugar  as  will  make  it  pret¬ 
ty  sweet  ;  then  add  the  almonds  :  stir  it  all  over  a 
slow  fire  till  it  is  of  a  proper  thickness,  but  do  not 
boil.  Pour  it  into  cups. 


CheesecaK.es. 

Strain  the  whey  from  the  curd  of  two  quarts  of 
milk  ;  when  rather  dry,  crumble  it  through  a  coarse 
sieve,  and  mix  with  six  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  one 
ounce  of  pounded  blanched  almonds,  a  little  orange- 
flower  water,  half  a  glass  of  raisin-wine,  a  grated 
biscuit,  four  ounces  of  currants,  some  nutmeg  and 
cinnamon  in  fine  powder,  and  beat  all  the  above  with 
three  eggs,  and  half  a  pint  of  cream,  till  auite  light  : 
then  fill  the  pattypans  three  parts  full. 

A  plainer  sort. 

Turn  three  quarts  of  milk  to  curd,  break  it,  and 
drain  the  whe}^  ;  when  dry,  break  it  in  a  pan,  with 
tw'o  ounces  of  butter,  till  perfectly  smooth  ;  put  to 
it  a  pint  and  a  half  of  thin  cream,  or  good  milk,  and 
add  sugar,  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  and  three  ounces  of 
currants. 

Lemon  Cheesecakes. 

Mix  four  ounces  of  sifted  lump-sugar  and  four 
ounces  of  butter,  and  gently  melt  it ;  then  add  the 
yolks  of  two  and  the  white  of  one  egg,  and  the  rind 
of  three  lemons  shred  fine,  and  the  juice  of  one  and 
a  half,  one  Savoy  biscuit,  some  blanched  almonds 
pounded,  three  spoonfuls  ofbrandy  ;  mix  well,  and 
put  in  paste  made  as  follows  :  eight  ounces  of  flour, 
six  ounces  of  butter  :  two  thirds  of  which  mix  with 
the  flour  first  ;  then  wet  it  with  six  spoonfuls  of  wa¬ 
ter,  and  roll  the  remainder  in. 

Orange  Cheesecakes. 

When  you  have  blanched  half  a  pound  of  almonds, 
beat  them  very  fine,  with  orange-flower  water,  and 
half  a  pound  of  fine  sugar  beaten  and  sifted,  a  pound 
of  butter  that  has  been  melted  carefully  without  oil¬ 
ing,  and  which  must  be  nearly  cold  before  you  use 
it ;  then  beat  the  yolks  of  ten  and  whites  of  four 


144 


eggs  ;  pound  two  candied  oranges,  and  a  fresh  one 
with  the  bitterness  boiled  out,  in  a  mortar,  till  as 
tender  as  marmalade,  without  any  lumps  ;  and  beat 
the  whole  together,  and  put  into  pattypans 
Potato  Cheesecakes. 

Boil  six  ounces  of  potatoes,  and  four  ounces  of 
lemon-peel  ;  beat  the  latter  in  a  mortar,  with  four 
ounces  of  sugar  ;  then  add  the  potatoes,  beaten,  and 
four  ounces  of  butter  melted  in  a  little  cream. 
When  well  mixed,  lei  it  stand  to  grow  cold.  Put 
crust  in  pattypans,  and  rather  more  than  half  fill 
them.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  half  an  hour ;  sifting 
some  double  refined  sugar  on  them  when  going  to 
the  oven.  This  quantity  will  make  a  dozen. 

Almond  Cheesecakes. 

Blanch  and  pound  four  ounces  of  almonds,  and  a 
few  bitter,  with  a  spoonful  of  water  ;  then  add  four 
ounces  of  sugar  pounded,  a  spoonful  of  cream,  and 
the  whites  of  two  eggs  well  beaten ;  mix  all  as 
quick  as  possible ;  put  into  very-  small  pattypans, 
and  hake  in  a  pretty  warm  oven  under  twenty  mb 
nutes. 

Another  way. — Blanch  and  pound  four  ounces  of 
almonds,  with  a  little  orange  flower  or  rose  water, 
then  stir  in  the  yolks  of  six  and  whites  of  three  eggs, 
well  beaten,  five  ounces  of  butter  warmed,  the  peel 
of  a  lemon  grated,  and  a  little  of  the  juice  ;  sweet¬ 
en  with  fine  Lisbon  sugar.  When  well  mixed,  bake 
in  a  delicate  paste,  in  small  pans. 

vegetables 

Observations  an  dressing  Vegetables. 

Vegetables  should  be  carefully  cleaned  from  in 
ssets  and  nicely  washed.  Boil  them  in  plenty  o& 


145 


water,  and  drain  them  the  moment  they  are  donfc 
enough.  If  overboiled,  they  lose  their  beauty  and 
crispness.  Bad  cooks  sometimes  dress  them  with 
meat ;  which  is  wrong,  except  carrots  with  boiling 
beef. 

To  boil  Vegetables  green. 

Be  sure  the  water  boils  when  you  put  them  in. 
Make  them  boil  very  fast.  Do  not  cover,  but  wash 
them  ;  and  if  the  water  has  not  slackened,  you  may 
be  sure  they  are  done  when  they  begin  to  sink. 
Then  take  them  out  immediately,  or  the  colour  will 
change.  Hard  water,  especially  if  chalybeat,  spoils 
the  colour  of  such  vegetables  as  should  be  green. 

To  boil  them  green  in  hard  water,  put  a  tea-spoon¬ 
ful  of  salt  of  wormwood  into  the  water  when  it  boils, 
before  the  vegetables  are  put  in. 

Boiled  Peas 

Should  not  be  overdone,  nor  in  much  water.  Chop 
some  scalded  mint  to  garnish  them,  and  stir  a  piece 
of  butter  in  with  them. 

To  stew  green  Peas. 

Put  a  quart  of  peas,  a  lettuce  and  an  onion  both 
sliced,  a  bit  of  butter,  pepper,  and  no  more  water 
than  hangs  round  the  lettuce  from  washing.  Stew 
them  two  hours  very  gently.  When  to  be  served, 
beat  up  an  egg,  and  stir  it  into  them  :  or  a  bit  of 
flour  and  butter. 

Some  think  a  tea-spoonful  of  white  powdered  su¬ 
gar  is  an  improvement.  Gravy  may  be  added  ;  but 
then  there  will  be  less  of  the  flavour  of  the  peas. — 
Chop  a  bit  of  mint,  and  stew  in  them. 

To  stew  old  Peas. 

Steep  them  in  water  all  night,  if  not  tine  boilers  ; 
otherwise  only  half  an  hour  ;  put  them  into  water 

13 


146 

enough  just  to  cover  them,  with  a  good  bit  of  butter 
or  a  piece  of  beef  or  pork.  Stew  them  very 
till  the  peas  are  soft,  and  the  meat  is  tender,  if  it » 
not  salt  meat,  add  salt  and  a  little  pepper.  Serv 

them  round  the  meat 

To  dress  Artichoites. 

Trim  a  few  of  the  outside  leaves  off,  “f 

stalk  even.  If  young,  half  an  hour  will  boil  them. 
They  are  better  for  being  gathered  two  or  three  days 
hrst:  Serve  them  with  melted  butter  in  as  many  small 
cups  as  there  are  artichokes,  to  help  with  each. 

Artichoke  Bottoms. 

If  dried,  they  must  be  soaked,  then  stewed  in 
weak  gravy,  and  served  with  or  without  forcemeat 
in  each.  Or  they  may  be  boiled  in  milk,  and  served 
with  cream  sauce  ;  or  added  to  ragouts,  French  pies, 
kc. 

To  stew  Cucumbers. 

Slice  them  thick  :  or  halve  and  divide  them  into 
two  lengths  ;  stew  some  salt  and  pepper,  and  sliced 
onions  :  add  a  little  broth,  or  a  bit  of  butter.  Sun. 
mev  very  slowly  ;  and  before  serving,  if  no  butter 
was  in  before,  put  some,  and  a  little  flour  ;  or  if  there 
was  butter  in,  only  a  little  flour  ;  unless  it  wants  rich¬ 
ness. 

To  stew  onions. 

Feel  six  large  onions  ;  fry  gently  of  a  fine  brown, 
but  do  not  blacken  them  ;  then  put  them  into  a  small 
stew-pan,  with  a  little  weak  gravy,  P£PPer’ andsjT  ’ 
cover  and  stew  two  hours  gently.  They  should  be 

lightly  floured  at  first. 

To  stew  Celery. 

Wash  six  heads,  and  strip  off  their  outer  leaves  ; 
either  halve,  or  leave  them  whole,  according  to 
Uieir  size  *,  cut  into  lengths  of  four  inches.  Fut  in- 


147 


to  a  stew-pan  with  a  cup  ot  oroth,  or  weaK  white 
<rravy,  stew  till  tender  ,  then  add  two  spoonfuls  ot 
cream,  and  a  little  flour  and  butter  seasoned  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg,  and  simmer  all  together. 

To  boil  Cauliflowers. 

Choose  those  that  are  close  and  white.  Cut  off 
the  green  leaves,  and  look  carefully  that  there,  are 
no  caterpillars  about  the  stalk.  Soak  an  hour  in 
cold  wmter :  then  boil  them  in  milk  and  water  ;  and 
take  care  to  skim  the  sauce-pan,  that  not  the  least 
foulness  may  fall  on  the  flower.  It  must  be  served 
very  white,  and  rather  crimp. 

Cauliflower  in  white  Sauce. 

Half  boil  it;  then  cut  it  into  handsome  pieces, 
and  lay  them  in  a  stew-pan  with  a  little  broth,  a  bit 
of  mace,  a  little  salt,  and  a  dust  of  white  pepper  ; 
simmer  half  an  hour:  then  put  a  little  cream,  but¬ 
ter  and  flour  ;  shake,  and  simmer  a  few  minutes,  and 
serve. 

To  dress  Cauliflowers  and  Parmesan. 

Boil  a  cauliflower  ;  drain  it  on  a  sieve,  and  cut 
the  stalk  so  that  the  flower  will  stand  upright  about 
two  inches  above  the  dish.  Put  it  into  the  stew- 
pan,  with  a  little  white  sauce  ;  let  it  stew  till  done 
enough,  which  will  be  but  a  lew  minutes,  then  oish 
it  with  the  sauce  round,  and  put  Parmesan  grated 
over  it.  Brown  it  with  a  salamander. 

To  dress  Brocoli. 

Cut  the  head  with  short  stalks,  and  pare  the 
tough  skin  off  them.  Tie  the  small  shoots  into 
bunches,  and  boil  them  a  shorter  time  than  the  heads. 
Some  salt  must  be  put  into  the  water.  Serve  with 
or  without  toast. 


148 


Spinach. 

Requires  great  care  in  washing  and  picking  it. 
When  that  is  done,  throw  it  into  a  saucepan  that 
will  just  hold  it.  sprinkle  it  with  a  little  salt,  and 
cover  close.  The  pan  must  be  set  on  the  fire,  and 
well  shaken.  When  done,  beat  the  spinach  well 
with  a  small  bit  of  butter ;  it  must  come  to  table 
pretty  dry  ;  and  looks  well  if  pressed  into  a  tin 
mould  in  the  form  of  a  large  leaf,  which  is  sold  at 
the  tin-shops.  A  spoonful  of  cream  is  an  improve¬ 
ment. 

To  dress  Beans. 

Boil  tender,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley,  which  must 
be  chopped  to  serve  with  them.  Bacon  or  pickled 
pork  must  be  served  to  eat  with,  but  not  boiled  with 
them. 

Fricasseed  Windsor  Beans. 

When  growing  large,  but  not  mealy,  boil,  blanch, 
and  lay  them  in  a  white  sauce  ready  hot :  just  heat 
them  through  in  it,  and  serve.  If  any  are  not  of 
fine  green  do  not  use  them  for  this  dish. 

French  Beans. 

String,  and  cut  them  into  four  or  eight  ;  the  last 
looks  best.  Lay  them  in  salt  and  water  ;  and  when 
the  sauce-pan  boils,  put  them  in  with  some  salt.  As 
soon  as  they  are  done,  serve  them  immediately,  to 
preserve  the  green  colour. 

Or  when  half  done,  drain  the  water  off,  and  put 
them  into  two  spoonfuls  of  broth  strained  :  and  add  a 
little  cream,  butter,  and  flour,  to  finish  doing  them. 

To  stew  red  Cabbage. 

Slice  a  small,  or  half  a  large,  red  cabbage  ;  wash 
and  put  it  into  a  sauce-pan  with  pepper,  salt,  no 
water  but  what  hangs  about  it,  and  a  piece  of  butter 


149 


Stew  till  quite  tender;  and  when  going  to  serve, 
add  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  give  one 
boil  over  the  fire.  Serve  it  for  cold  meat,  or  with 
sausages  on  it. 

Another  way. — Shred  the  cabbage,  wash  it  ;  and 
put  it  over  a  slow  fire,  with  slices  of  onion,  pepper, 
and  salt,  and  a  little  plain  gravy  When  quite  ten¬ 
der  and  a  few  minutes  before  serving,  add  a  bit  of 
butter  rubbed  with  flour,  and  two  or  three  spoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  and  boil  up. 

Mushrooms 

The  cook  should  be  perfectly  acquainted  with  the 
different  sorts  of  things  called  by  this  name  by  ig¬ 
norant  people,  as  the  death  of  many  persons  has 
been  occasioned  by  carelessly  using  the  poisonous 
kinds. 

The  eatable  mushrooms  first  appear  very  small, 
and  of  a  round  form,  on  a  little  stalk.  They  grow 
very  fast,  and  the  upper  part  and  stalk  is  white. 
As  the  size  increases,  the  under  part  gradually 
opens,  and  shows  a  fringed  fur  of  a  very  fine  sal¬ 
mon-colour,  which  continues  more  or  less  till  the 
mushroom  has  gained  some  size,  and  then  turns  to 
a  dark  brown.  These  marks  should  be  attended  to, 
and  likewise  whether  the  skin  can  be  easily  parted 
from  the  edges  and  middle.  Those  that  have  a 
white  or  yellow  fur  should  be  carefully  avoided, 
though  many  of  them  have  the  same  smell,  (but  not 
so  strong,)  as  the  right  sort. 

To  stew  Mushrooms. 

The  large  buttons  are  best,  and  the  small  flaps 
while  the  fur  is  still  red.  Rub  the  large  buttons 
with  salt  and  a  bit  of  flannel  ;  cut  out  the  fur,  and 
take  off  the  skin  from  the  others.  Sprinkle  them 
with  salt,  and  put  into  a  stew-pan  with  some  pepper- 

13* 


150 


corns  ;  simmer  siowly  till  done  :  then  put  a  small 
bit  of  butter  and  flour,  and  two  spoonfuls  of  cream  ; 
give  them  one  boil,  and  serve  with  sippets  of  bread. 

To  stew  Sorrel  for  Fricandeau  and  roast  Meat. 

Wash  the  sorrel ;  and  put  it  into  a  silver  vessel, 
or  stone  jar,  with  no  more  water  than  hangs  to  the 
leaves.  Simmer  it  as  slow  as  you  can  ;  and  when 
done  enough,  put  a  bit  of  butter,  and  beat  it  well. 

Frencti  Salad. 

Chop  three  anchovies,  a  shallot,  and  some  parsley, 
small ;  put  them  into  a  bowl  with  two  table-spoon¬ 
fuls  of  vinegar,  one  of  oil,  a  little  mustard  and  salt. 
When  well  mixed,  add  by  degrees  some  cold  roast 
or  boiled  meat  in  very  thin  slices  ;  put  in  a  few  at  a 
tune,  not  exceeding  two  or  three  inches  long. 
Shake  them  in  the  seasoning,  and  then  put  more  ; 
cover  the  bowl  close,  and  let  the  salad  be  prepared 
three  hours  before  it  is  to  be  eaten.  Garnish  with 
parsley,  and  a  few  slices  of  the  fat. 

Lobster  Salad. 

Make  a  salad  ;  and  put  some  of  the  red  part  of 
the  lobster  to  it,  cut.  This  forms  a  pretty  contrast 
to  the  white  and  green  of  the  vegetables.  Do  not 
put  much  oil,  as  shell-fish  absorb  the  sharpness  of 
vinegar.  Serve  in  a  dish,  not  a  bowl. 

To  boil  Potatoes. 

Set  them  on  a  fire,  without  paring  them,  in  cold 
water,  let  them  half-boil  ;  then  throw  some  salt  in, 
and  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and  let  them  boil  again  till 
almost  done.  Pour  off  the  water  ;  and  put  a  clean 
doth  over  them,  and  then  the  saucepan-cover,  and 
set  them  by  the  fire  to  steam  till  ready.  Many  per¬ 
sons  prefer  steamers.  Potatoes  look  best  when  the 
skin  is  peeled,  not  cut. 


151 


Do  new  potatoes  the  same  ;  but  be  careful  they 
a#e  taken  off  in  time,  or  they  will  be  watery.  Be¬ 
fore  dressing,  rub  off  the  skin  with  a  cloth  and  salt, 
and  then  wash. 

To  broil  Potatoes. 

Parboil,  then  slice  and  broil  them.  Or  parboil, 
and  then  set  them  whole  on  the  gridiron  over  a  very 
slow  fire  ;  and  when  thoroughly  done,  send  them 
up  with  their  skins  on.  This  last  way  is  practised 
in  many  Irish  families. 

ri  o  roast  Potatoes. 

Half-boil,  take  off  the  thin  peel,  and  roast  them 
of  a  beautiful  brown. 

To  fry  Potatoes. 

Take  the  skin  off  raw  potatoes,  slice,  and  fry 
them,  either  in  butter  or  thin  batter. 

To  mash  Potatoes. 

Boil  the  potatoes,  peel  them,  and  break  them  to 
paste  ;  then  to  two  pounds  of  them,  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  milk,  a  little  salt,  and  two  ounces  of 
butter,  and  stir  it  all  well  over  the  fire.  Either 
serve  them  in  this  manner  ;  or  place  them  on  the 
dish  in  a  form,  and  then  brown  the  top  with  a  sala¬ 
mander  ;  or  in  scallops. 

Carrots 

Require  a  good  deal  of  boiling  ;  when  young, 
wipe  off  the  skin  after  they  are  boiled;  when  old, 
boil  them  with  the  salt  meat,  and  scrape  them  first. 

To  stew  Canots. 

Half-boil,  then  nicely  scrape,  and  slice  them  into 
a  stew-pan  ;  put  to  them  half  a  tea-cupful  of  any 
weak  broth,  some  pepper  and  salt,  and  half  a  cupful  of 
cream  :  simmer  them  till  they  are  very  tender,  but 
not  broken.  Before  serving,  rub  a  very  little  flour  ; 


152 


with  a  bit  of  butter,  and  warm  up  with  them.  If  ap¬ 
proved,  chopped  parsley  may  be  added  ten  minutes 
before  served. 

To  mash  Parsnips. 

Boil  them  tender  ;  scrape,  then  mash  them  into 
a  stew-pan  with  a  little  cream,  a  good  piece  of  but¬ 
ter,  and  pepper  and  salt. 

Fricassee  of  parsnips. 

Boil  in  milk  till  they  are  soft.  Then  cut  them 
lengthways  into  bits  two  or  three  inches  long  ;  and 
simmer  in  a  white  sauce,  made  of  two  spoonfuls  of 
broth,  a  bit  of  mace,  half  a  cupful  of  cream,  a  bit  of 
butter  and  some  flower,  pepper,  and  salt. 

Beet-roots 

Make  a  very  pleasant  addition  to  winter  salad  ;  of 
which  they  may  agreeably  form  a  full  half,  instead 
of  being  only  used  to  ornament  it.  This  root  is  cool¬ 
ing,  and  very  wholesome. 

It  is  extremely  good,  boiled  and  sliced  with  a  small 
quantity  of  onion  ;  or  stewed  with  whole  onions, 
large  or  small  as  follows. 

Boil  the  beet  tender  with  the  skin  on  ;  slice  it  in¬ 
to  a  stew-pan  with  a  little  broth,  and  a  spoonful  of 
vinegar ;  simmer  till  the  gravy  is  tinged  with  the 
colour  ;  then  put  it  into  a  small  dish,  and  make  a 
round  of  the  button-onions,  first  boiled  till  tender ; 
take  off  the  skin  just  before  serving,  and  mind  they 
be  quite  hot,  and  clear. 

Or  roast  three  large  onions,  and  peel  off  the  outer 
skins  till  they  look  clear  ;  and  serve  the  beet-root 
stewed  round  them. 

If  beet-root  is  in  the.  least  broken  before  dressed, 
it  parts  with  its  colour,  and  looks  ill. 


153 


SWEET  DISHES,  PRESERVES,  SWEETMEATS,  &.C. 

Buttered  Rice. 

Wash  and  pick  some  rice,  drain,  and  put  it  with 
some  new  milk,  enough  just  to  swell  it,  over  the 
ffre  ;  when  tender,  pour  off  the  milk,  and  add  a 
bit  of  butter,  a  little  sugar,  and  pounded  cinnamon. 
Shake  it,  that  it  does  not  burn,  and  serve. 

Souffle  of  Rice  and  Apples. 

Blanch  Carolina  rice,  strain  it,  and  set  it  to  boil  in 
milk,  with  lemon-peel  and  a  bit  of  cinnamon.  Let 
it  boil  till  the  rice  is  dry  ;  then  cool  it,  and  raise  a 
rim  three  inches  high  round  the  dish  ;  having  egged 
the  dish  where  it  is  put,  to  make  it  stick.  Then  egg 
the  rice  all  over.  Fill  the  dish  half-way  up  with  a 
marmalade  of  apples  ;  have  ready  the  whites  of  four 
eggs  beaten  to  a  fine  froth,  and  put  them  over  the 
marmalade  :  then  sift  fine  sugar  over  it,  and  set  it  in 
the  oven,  which  should  be  warm  enough  to  give  it  a 
beautiful  colour. 

Snow  Balls. 

Swell  rice  in  milk,  strain  it  off ;  and  having  pared 
and  cored  apples,  put  the  rice  round  them,  tying 
each  up  in  a  cloth.  Put  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  a  clove, 
or  cinnamon,  in  each,  and  boil  them  well. 

Lent  Potatoes. 

Beat  three  or  four  ounces  of  almonds,  and  three 
or  four  bitter,  when  blanched,  putting  a  little  orange- 
flower  water  to  prevent  oiling  ;  add  eight  ounces  of 
butter,  four  eggs  well  beaten  and  strained,  half  a 
glass  of  raisin  wine,  and  sugar  to  your  taste.  Beat 
all  well  till  quite  smooth,  and  grate  in  three  Savoy 
biscuits.  Make  balls  of  the  above  with  a  little  flour, 
the  size  of  a  chestnut ;  throw  them  into  a  stew-pan  of 
boiling  lard,  and  boil  them  of  a  beautiful  yellow 
^rown.  Drain  them.  Serve  sweet  sauce  in  a  boat. 


154 


A  Tansey 

'  Beat  seven  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  separately  ;  add 
a  pint  of  cream,  near  the  same  of  spinach-juice,  and 
a  little  tansey-juice  gained  by  pounding  in  a  stone 
mortar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Naples  biscuit,  su¬ 
gar  to  taste,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and  some  nutmeg. 
Set  all  in  a  sauce-pan,  just  to  thicken,  over  the  fire  ; 
then  put  it  into  a  dish,  lined  h  paste,  to  turn  out, 
and  bake  it. 

Puits  d' Amour. 

Cut  a  fine  rich  puff-paste  rolled  thin,  with  tin 
shapes  made  on  purpose,  one  size  less  than  another, 
in  a  pyramidical  form,  and  lay  them  so  :  then  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven,  that  the  paste  may  be  done  suf¬ 
ficiently,  but  very  pale.  Lay  different  coloured 
sweetmeats  on  the  edges. 

A  very  nice  dish  of  Macaroni  dressed  sweet. 

Boil  two  ounces  in  a  pint  of  milk,  w’ith  a  bit  of 
lemon-peel,  and  a  good  bit  of  cinnamon,  till  the  pipes 
are  swelled  to  their  utmost  size  without  breaking. — 
Lay  them  on  a  custard-dish,  and  pour  a  custard  over 
them  hot.  Serve  cold. 

Floating  Island. 

Scald  a  codlin  before  it  be  ripe,  or  any  sharp  ap¬ 
ple  ;  pulp  it  through  a  sieve.  Beat  the  whites  ol 
two  eggs  with  sugar,  and  a  spoonful  of  orange  flow¬ 
er-water  ;  mix  in  by  degrees  the  pulp,  and  beat  all 
together  until  you  have  a  large  quantity  of  froth  ; 
serve  it  on  a  raspberry-cream  ;  or  you  may  colour 
the  froth  with  beet-root,  raspberry,  currant-jelly, 
and  set  it  on  a  white  cream,  having  given  it  the  fla¬ 
vour  oflemon,  sugar,  and  wine  ;  or  put  the  froth  on 
a  custard. 


155 


Flummery. 

Put  three  large  handfuls  of  very  small  white  oat¬ 
meal  to  steep  a  day  and  night  in  cold  water  ;  then 
pour  it  off  clear,  and  add  as  much  more  water,  and 
let  it  stand  the  same  time.  Strain  it  through  a  fine 
hair  sieve,  and  boil  it  till  it  be  as  thick  as  hasty  pud¬ 
ding  ;  stirring  it  well  all  the  time.  When  first 
strained,  put  to  it  one  large  spoonful  of  white  sugar, 
and  two  of  orange-flower  water.  Pour  it  into  shal¬ 
low  dishes,  and  serve  to  eat  with  wine,  cider,  milk 
or  cream,  or  sugar.  It  is  very  good. 

Rice  Flummery. 

Boil  with  a  pint  of  new  milk,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel, 
and  cinnamon  ;  mix  with  a  little  cold  milk  as  much 
rice  flour  as  will  make  the  whole  of  a  good  consis¬ 
tence,  sweeten,  and  add  a  spoon  of  peach- water,  or 
a  bitter  almond  beaten  ;  boil  it,  observing  it  do  not 
burn  ;  pour  it  into  a  shape  or  pint  basin,  taking  out 
the  spice.  When  cold,  turn  the  flummery  into  a 
dish,  and  serve  with  cream,  milk,  or  custard  round  : 
or  put  a  tea-cupful  of  cream  into  half  a  pint  of  new 
milk,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  half  a  lemon  squeezed  : 
and  sugar. 

Firmity. 

To  a  quart  of  ready  boiled  wheat,  but  by  degrees 
two  quarts  of  new  milk,  breaking  the  jelly,  and  then 
four  ounces  of  currants  picked  clean,  and  washed  ; 
stir  them  and  boil  till  they  are  done.  Beat  the  yolks 
of  three  eggs,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  with  two  or  three 
spoonfuls  of  milk  ;  add  this  to  the  wheat ;  stir  them 
together  while  over  the  fire  ;  then  sweeten,  and 
serve  cold  in  a  deep  dish.  Some  persons  like  it 
best  warm. 

Curds  and  Cream. 

Put  three  or  four  pints  of  milk  into  a  pan  a  little 


156 


warm,  and  then  add  rennet  or  gallino.  When  the 
curd  is  come  lade  it  with  a  saucer  into  an  earthern 
shape,  perforated,  of  any  form  you  please.  Fill  it 
up  as  the  whey  drains  off,  without  breaking  or  press 
ing  the  curd.  If  turned  only  two  hours  before 
wanted,  it  is  very  light ;  but  those  who  like  it  har¬ 
der,  may  have  it  so,  by  making  it  earlier,  and  squeez¬ 
ing  it.  Cream,  milk  or  a  whip  of  cream,  sugar, 
wine,  and  lemon,  to  be  put  in  the  dish,  or  into  a  glass 
bowl,  to  serve  with  the  curd. 

A  Curd  Star. 

Set  a  quart  of  new  milk  upon  the  fire  with  two  or 
three  blades  of  mace  ;  and  when  ready  to  boil,  put 
to  it  the  yolks  and  whites  of  nine  eggs  well  beaten, 
and  as  much  salt  as  will  lie  upon  a  small  knife’s 
point.  Let  it  boil  till  the  whey  is  clear ;  then  drain 
it  in  a  thin  cloth,  or  hair  sieve  ;  season  it  with  su¬ 
gar,  and  a  little  cinnamon,  rose-water,  orange-flower 
water,  or  white  wine,  to  your  taste  :  and  put  into  a 
star  form,  or  any  other.  Let  it  stand  some  hours 
before  you  turn  it  into  a  dish  :  then  put  round  it 
thick  cream  or  custard. 

Blanc-mange  or  Blamange. 

Boil  two  ounces  of  isinglass  in  three  half-pints  of 
water  half  an  hour  ;  strain  it  into  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  cream,  sweeten  it,  and  add  some  peach  water,  or 
a  few  bitter  almonds,  let  it  boil  once  up,  and  put  in¬ 
to  what  forms  you  please.  If  not  to  be  very  stiff,  a 
little  less  isinglass  will  do.  Observe  to  let  tb«» 
blamange  settle  before  you  turn  it  into  the  forms,  o t 
the  blacks  will  remain  at  the  bottom  of  them,  and  be 
on  the  top  of  the  blamange  when  taken  out  of  the 
moulds. 

Gooseberry ,  or  Apple  Trifle. 

Scald  such*  quantity  of  either  of  these  fruits,  as, 


157 


when  pulped  through  a  sieve,  will  make  a  thick  lay¬ 
er  at  the  bottom  of  your  dish  ;  if  of  apples  mix  the 
rind  of  half  a  lemon  grated  fine  ;  and  to  both  as  much 
sugar  as  will  be  pleasant. 

Mix  half  a  pint  of  milk,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  the 
yolk  of  one  egg  ;  give  it  a  scald  over  the  fire,  and 
stir  it  all  the  time  ;  do  not  let  it  boil :  add  a  little  su¬ 
gar  only,  and  let  it  grow  cold.  Lay  it  over  the  ap¬ 
ples  with  a  spoon  ;  and  then  put  on  it  a  whip  made 
the  day  before,  as  for  other  trifle. 

Chantilly  Cake,  or  Cake  Trifle. 

Bake  a  rice  cake  in  a  mould.  When  cold,  cut  it 
round  about  two  inches  from  the  edge  with  a  sharp 
knife,  taking  care  not  to  perforate  the  bottom.  Put 
in  thick  custard,  and  some  tea-spoonfuls  of  raspber¬ 
ry  jam,  and  then  put  on  a  high  whip 

Gooseberry  Fool. 

Put  the  fruit  into  a  stone  jar,  and  some  good  Lis¬ 
bon  sugar  :  set  the  jar  on  a  stove,  or  in  a  sauce-pan 
of  water  over  the  fire  ;  if  the  former,  a  large  spoon¬ 
ful  of  water  should  be  added  to  the  fruit.  When  it 
is  done  enough  to  pulp,  press  it  through  a  colander; 
have  ready  a  sufficient  quantity  of  new  milk,  and  a 
tea-cup  of  raw  cream,  boiled  together,  or  an  egg  in¬ 
stead  of  the  latter,  and  left  to  be  cold  :  then  sweeten 
it  pretty  well  with  fine  Lisbon  sugar,  and  mix  the 
pulp  by  degrees  with  it. 

Orange  Fool. 

Mix  the  juice  of  three  Seville  oranges,  three  eggs 
well  beaten,  a  pint  of  cream,  a  little  nutmeg  and  cin¬ 
namon,  and  sweeten  to  your  taste.  Set  the  whole 
over  a  slow  fire,  and  stir  it  till  it  becomes  as  thick 
as  good  melted  buttei  but  it  must  not  be  boiled-; 
then  pour  it  into  a  dish  foi  eating  cold 

14 

I  E  .  A 


158 

A  Cream. 

Boil  halfa  pint  of  cream,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
with  two  bay-leaves,  a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  a  few  al¬ 
monds,  beaten  to  paste,  with  a  drop  of  water,  a  little 
sugar,  orange-flower  water,  and  a  tea-£*poonful  of 
flour,  having  been  rubbed  down  with  a  little  cold 
milk,  and  mixed  with  the  above.  When  cold,  put 
a  little  lemon-juice  to  the  cream,  and  serve  it  in  cups 
or  lemonade-glasses. 

An  excellent  Cream. 

Whip  up  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  very  rich 
cream  to  a  strong  froth,  with  some  finely  scraped 
lemon-peel,  a  squeeze  of  the  juice,  half  a  glass  of 
sweet  wine,  and  sugar  to  make  it  pleasant,  but  not  too 
sweet;  lay  it  on  a  sieve  or  in  a  form,  and  next  day 
put  it  on  a  dish,  and  ornament  it  with  very  light  puff 
paste  biscuits,  made  in  tin  shapes  the  length  of  a  fin¬ 
ger,  and  about  two  thick,  over  ivhich  sugar  may  be 
strewed,  or  a  little  glaze  with  isinglass.  Or  you 
may  use  macaroons,  to  line  the  edges  of  the  dish. 

Burnt  Cream. 

Boil  a  pint  of  cream  with  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  and 
some  lemon-peel ;  take  it  oft'  the  fire,  and  pour  it 
very  slowly  into  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  stirring  till 
half  cold  ;  sweeten  and  take  out  the  spice,  &c.  ; 
pour  it  into  the  dish  ;  when  cold,  strew  white  pound¬ 
ed  sugar  over  and  brown  it  with  a  salamander. 

Sack  Cream. 

Boil  a  pint  of  raw  cream,  the  yolk  of  an  egg  well 
beaten,  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  white  wine,  sugar, 
and  lemon-peel  j  stir  it  over  a  gentle  fire  till  it  is  as 
thick  as  rich  cream,  and  afterwards  till  cold  ;  then 
serve  it  in  glasses,  with  long  pieces  of  dry  toast. 


Brandy  Cream. 

Boil  two  dozen  of  almonds  blanched,  and  pounded 
bitter  almonds,  in  a  little  milk.  When  cold,  add  to 
it  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  beaten  well  in  a  little  cream, 
sweeten,  and  put  to  it  two  glasses  of  the  best  brandy  ; 
and  when  well  mixed,  pour  to  it  a  quart  of  thin 
cream  ;  set  it  over  the  fire,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  : 
stir  it  one  way  till  it  thickens,  then  pour  into  cups  or 
low  glasses. 

When  cold  it  will  be  ready.  A  ratafia-drop  may 
be  put  in  each  if  you  choose  it.  If  you  wish  it  to 
keep,  scald  the  cream  previously. 

Ratafia  Cream. 

Boil  three  or  four  laurel,  peach,  or  nectarine 
leaves,  in  a  full  pint  of  cream  ;  strain  it,  and  when 
cold,  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  and  strain¬ 
ed,  sugar,  and  a  large  spoonful  of  brandy  stirred 
quick  into  it.  Scald  till  thick,  stirring  it  all  the  time. 

Lemon  Cream. 

Take  a  pint  of  thick  cream,  and  put  to  it  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs  well  beaten,  four  ounces  of  fine 
sugar,  and  the  thin  rind  of  a  lemon  ;  boil  it  up,  then 
stir  it  till  almost  cold  ;  put  the  juice  of  a  lemon  in  a 
dish,  or  bowl,  and  pour  the  cream  upon  it,  stirring 
it  till  quite  cold. 

White  Lemon  Cream. 

Is  made  the  same  as  the  above  ;  only  put  the 
whites  of  the  eggs  in  lieu  of  the  yolks ,  whisking  it 
extremely  well  to  froth. 

Almond  Cream. 

Beat  four  ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  and  a  few 
bitter,  in  a  mortar,  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  water  to 
prevent  oiling,  both  having  been  blanched.  Put  the 
paste  to  a  quart  of  "warn,  and  add  the  juice  of  three 


160 


.emons  sweetened  ;  beat  it  up  with  a  whisk  to  a 
froth,  which  take  off  on  the  shallow  part  of  a  sieve  ; 
till  glasses  with  some  of  the  liquor  and  the  froth. 

Snow  Cream. 

Put  to  a  quart  of  cream  the  whites  of  three  eggs 
well  beaten,  four  spoonfuls  of  sweet  wine,  sugar  to 
your  taste,  and  a  bit  of  lemon  peel ;  whip  it  to  a 
froth,  remove  the  peel,  and  serve  in  a  dish. 

Cojfee-crcam ,  much  admired. 

Boil  a  calf’s  foot  in  water  till  it  wastes  to  a  pint  of 
jelly,  clear  of  sediment  and  fat.  Make  a  tea-cup  of 
very  strong  coffee  ;  clear  it  with  a  bit  of  isinglass  to 
be  perfectly  bright  ;  pour  it  to  the  jelly,  and  add  a 
pint  of  very  good  cream,  and  as  much  fine  Lisbon 
sugar  as  is  pleasant  ;  give  one  boil  up,  and  pour 
into  the  dish. 

It  should  jelly,  put  not  be  stiff.  Observe  that 

your  coffee  be  fresh. 

Excellent  Orange  Cream. 

Boil  the  rind  of  a  Seville  orange  very  tender ; 
beat  it  fine  in  a  mortar,  put  it  to  a  spoonful  of  the 
best  brandy,  the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange,  four  oun¬ 
ces  of  Loaf  sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  ;  beat  all 
together  for  ten  minutes,  then,  by  gentle  degrees, 
pour  in  a  pint  of  boiling  cream,  beat  till  cold,  put 
into  custard-cups  set  into  a  deep  dish  of  boiling 
water,  and  let  them  stand  till  cold  again.  Put  at  the 
top  small  strips  of  orange-paring,  cut  thin,  or  pre¬ 
served  chips. 

Raspberry  Cream. 

Mash  the  fruit  gently ,  and  let  them  drain,  then 
sprinkle  a  little  sugar  over,  and  that  will  produce 
more  juice,  then  put  the  juice  to  some  cream,  and 
sweeten  it,  after  which,  if  you  choose  to  lower  it 


161 


with  some  milk,  it  will  not  curdle,  which  it  would, 
if  put  to  the  milk  before  the  cream,  but  it  is  the  best 
made  of  raspberry -jelly  instead  of  jam,  when  the 
fresh  fruit  cannot  be  obtained. 

Pistachio  Cream. 

Blanch  four  ounces  of  pistachio  nuts  ;  beat  them 
fine  with  a  little  rose-water,  and  add  the  paste  to  a 
pint  of  cream  ;  sweeten,  let  it  just  boil,  and  put  it 
into  glasses. 

Clouted  Cream . 

String  four  blades  of  mace  on  a  thread  ;  put 
them  on  a  gill  of  new  milk,  and  six  spoonfuls  of  rose¬ 
water,  simmer  a  few  minutes,  then  by  degrees  stir 
this  liquor  strained  into  the  yolks  of  two  new  eggs 
well  beaten.  Stir  the  whole  into  a  quart  of  very 
good  cream,  and  set  it  over  the  fire  ;  stir  it  till  hot, 
but  not  boiling  hot ;  pour  it  into  a  deep  dish,  and 
let  it  stand  twenty-four  hours.  Serve  it  in  a  cream 
dish,  to  eat  with  fruits.  Many  people  prefer  it 
without  any  flavour  but  that  of  cream,  in  which  case 
use  a  quart  of  new  milk  and  the  cream,  or  do  it  as 
the  Devonshire  scalded  cream. 

When  done  enough,  a  round  mark  will  appear  on 
the  surftce  of  the  cream,  the  size  of  the  bottom  of 
the  pan  it  is  done  in,  which  in  the  country  they  call 
the  ring ;  and  when  that  is  seen,  remove  the  pan 
from  the  fire. 

A  Froth  to  set  on  Cream ,  Custard ,  or  Trifle,  which 
looks  and  eats  well. 

Sweeten  half  a  pound  of  the  pulp  of  damsons,  or 
any  other  sort  of  scalded  fruit,  put  to  it  the  whites  of 
four  eggs  beaten,  and  beat  the  pulp  with  them  until 
it  will  stand  as  high  as  you  choose  ;  and  being  put  on 
the  cream,  &c.  with  a  sooon,  it  will  ta^ajjv  form  . 
it  should  be  rough,  to  imitate  a  rock 

14* 


162 


Calf's  Feet  Jelly. 

Boil  two  feet  in  two  quarts  and  a  pint  of  water  till 
the  f  eet  .ire  broken  and  the  water  half  wasted  ;  strain 
it,  and  when  cold,  take  off  the  fat,  and  remove  the 
jelly  from  the  sediment  ;  then  put  it  into  a  sauce¬ 
pan,  with  sugar,  raisin  w  ine,  lemon  juice  to  your 
taste,  and  some  lemon-peel.  When  the  flavour  is 
rich,  put  to  it  the  white  of  five  eggs  well  beaten,  and 
their  shells  broken.  Set  the  sauce-pan  on  the  fire, 
but  do  not  stir  the  jelly  after  it  begins  to  warm.  Let 
it  boil  twenty  minutes  after  it  rises  to  a  head  ;  then 
pour  it  through  a  flannel  jelly-bag.  first  dipping  the 
bag  in  hot  water  to  prevent  waste,  and  squeezing  it 
quite  dry.  Run  the  jelly  through  and  through  un¬ 
til  clear  ;  then  put  it  into  glasses  or  forms. 

The  following  mode  will  greatly  facilitate  the 
clearing  of  jelly.  When  the  mixture  has  boiled 
twenty  minutes,  throw  in  a  tea-cupful  of  cold  water, 
ret  it  boil  five  minutes  longer  :  then  take  t'he  sauce¬ 
pan  off  the  fire  covered  close,  and  keep  it  half  an 
hour  ;  after  which  it  will  be  so  clear  as  to  need  only 
once  running  through  the  bag,  and  much  waste  will 
be  saved. 

Observe,  feet  for  all  jellies  are  boiled  so  long  by 
the  people  who  sell  them,  that  thay  are  less  nutri- 
cious :  they  should  only  be  scalded  to  take  off  the  hair. 
The  liquor  will  require  greater  care  in  removing  the 
fait,  but  the  jelly  will  oe  far  stronger,  and  of  course 
allow  more  water.  Note  :  jelly  is  equally  good  made 
of  cow-heels  nicely  cleaned  ;  and  as  they  bear  a 
less  price  than  those  of  calves,  and  make  a  stronger 
jelly,  this  observation  rnay  be  useful. 

Orange  Jelly. 

Grate  the  rind  of  two  Seville  and  two  Cnina  Oran¬ 
ges,  and  two  lemons,  squeeze  the  juice  of  three  of 


163 


each,  and  strain,  and  add  the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  lump  sugar,  and  a  quarter  ef  a  pint  of  wa¬ 
ter,  and  boil  till  it  almost  candies.  Have  ready  a 
quart  of  isinglass-jelly  made  with  two  ounces;  put 
to  it  the  syrup,  and  boil  it  once  up  ;  strain  off  the 
jelly,  and  let  it  stand  to  settle  as  above,  before  it  is 
'  put  into  the  mould. 

Hartshorn  Jelly. 

Simmer  eight  ounces  of  hartshorn  shavings  with 
two  quarts  of  water  to  one  ;  strain  it,  and  boil  it 
with  the  rinds  of  four  China  oranges  and  two  lemons 
pared  thin  ;  when  cool,  add  the  juice  of  both,  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  the  whites  of  six  eggs  beaten  to 
froth  ;  let  the  jelly  have  three  or  four  boils  without 
stirring,  and  strain  it  through  a  jelly  bag. 

Cranberry  Jelly. 

Make  a  very  strong  isinglass-jelly.  When  cold, 
mix  it  with  a  double  quantity  of  cranberry-juice, 
pressed  as  directed  for  dressing  cranberries,  ( see 
\ preserves ;)  sweeten  and  boil  it  up ;  then  strain  it  in¬ 
to  a  shape. 

The  sugar  must  be  good  loaf,  or  the  jelly  will  not 
be  clear. 

Cranberry  and  Bice  Jelly. 

Boil  and  press  the  fruit,  strain  the  juice  and  by 
degrees  mix  it  into  as  much  ground  rice  as  will,  when 
boiled,  thicken  to  a  jelly  ;  boil  it  gently,  stirring  it, 
and  sweeten  to  your  taste.  Put  it  in  a  basin  or  form, 
and  serve  to  eat  as  the  afore-directed  jelly,  with  milk 
or  cream. 

Apple  Jelly  to  serve  at  table. 

Prepare  twenty  golden  pippins  ;  boil  them  in  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  water  from  the  spring,  till  quite 
tender ;  then  strain  the  liquor  through  a  colander 


104 


To  every  pint  put  a  pound  of  fine  sugar,  add  grated 
orange  or  lemon,  then  boil  to  a  jelly. 

To  scald  Codlins. 

W rap  each  in  a  vine-leaf,  and  pack  them  close  in 
a  nice  sauce-pan,  and  when  full,  pour  as  much  water 
as  will  cover  them.  Set  it  over  a  gentle  fire,  and 
let  them  simmer  slowly  till  done  enough  to  take  the 
thin  skin  off  when  cold.  Place  them  in  a  dish,  with  or 
without  milk,  cream,  or  custard  ;  if  the  latter,  there 
should  be  no  ratafia.  Dust  fine  sugar  over  the  ap¬ 
ples. 

Stewed  Golden  Pippins. 

Scoop  out  the  core,  pare  them  very  thin,  and  as 
you  do  it,  throw  them  in  water.  For  every  pound 
of  fruit,  make  half  a  pound  of  single-refined  sugar 
into  syrup,  with  a  pint  of  water,  when  skimmed,  put 
the  pippins  in,  and  stew  till  clear  ;  then  grate  the  le¬ 
mon  over,  and  serve  in  the  syrup.  Be  careful  not 
to  let  them  break. 

They  are  an  elegant  and  good  dish  for  a  corner  or 
dessert. 

Black  Caps. 

Halve  and  core  some  fine  large  apples,  put  them 
in  a  shallow  pan,  strew  white  sugar  over,  and  bake 
them.  Boil  a  glass  of  wine,  the  same  of  water,  and 
sweeten  it  for  sauce. 

Stewed  Pears. 

Pare  and  halve,  or  quarter,  large  pears,  accord¬ 
ing  to  their  size  ;  throw  them  into  water,  as  the  skin 
is  taken  off,  before  they  are  divided,  to  prevent  their 
turning  black.  Pack  them  round  a  block-tin  stew- 
pan,  and  sprinkle  as  much  sugar  over  as  will  make 
them  pretty  sweet,  and  add  lemon  peel,  a  clove  or 
two,  and  some  alspice  cracked  ;  just  cover  them  with 
water,  and  put  some  of  the  red  liquor,  as  directed  in 


165 


another  article.  Cover  them  close,  and  stew  three 
or  four  hours  ;  when  tender,  take  them  out,  and 
pour  the  liquor  from  them. 

Baked  Pears. 

These  need  not  be  of  a  fine  sort ;  but  some  taste 
better  than  others,  and  often  those  that  are  least 
fit  to  eat  raw.  Wipe  but  do  not  pare,  and  lay  them 
on  tin  plates,  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven.  When 
enough  to  bear  it  flatten  them  with  a  silver  spoon. 
When  done  through,  put  them  on  the  dish.  They 
should  be  baked  three  or  four  times,  and  very 
gently. 

Orange  Butter. 

Boil  six  hard  eggs,  beat  them  in  a  mortar  with  two 
ounces  of  fine  sugar,  three  ounces  of  butter,  and 
two  ounces  of  blanched  almonds  beaten  to  a  paste. 
Moisten  with  orange-flower  water,  and  when  all  is 
mixed,  rub  it  through  a  colander  on  a  dish,  and 
serve  sweet  biscuits  between. 

To  prepare  Fruit  for  Children ,  afar  more  wholesome 
way  than  in  Pies  and  Puddings. 

Put  apples  sliced,  or  plums,  currants,  gooseber¬ 
ries,  &c.  into  a  stone  jar,  and  sprinkle  as  much  Lis¬ 
bon  sugar  as  necessary  among  them,  set  the  jar  on  a 
hot  hearth,  or  in  a  sauce-pan  of  water,  and  let  it  re¬ 
main  till  the  fruit  is  perfectly  done. 

jlices  of  bread,  or  rice  may  be  either  stewed  with 
the  fruit  or  added  when  eaten  ;  the  rice  being  plain- 
boiled. 

To  prepare  Ice  for  Iceing 

Get  a  few  pounds  of  ice,  break  it  almost  to  pow¬ 
der,  throw  a  large  handful  and  a  half  of  salt  among 
it.  You  must  prepare  in  a  part  of  the  house  where 
as  little  of  the  warm  air  comes  as  you  can  possibly 


166 


contrive.  The  ice  and  salt  being  in  a  bucket,  put 
your  cream  into  an  ice-pot,  and  cover  it ;  immerse 
it  in  the  ice,  and  draw  that  round  the  pot,  so  as  to 
touch  every  possible  part.  In  a  few  minutes  put  a 
spatula  or  spoon  in.  and  stir  it  well,  moving  the 
parts  that  ice  round  the  edges  to  the  centre.  Ifihe 
ice  cream,  or  water,  be  in  a  form,  shut  the  bot- 
toom  close,  and  move  the  whole  in  the  ice,  as 
you  cannot  use  a  spoon  to  that  without  danger  of 
waste.  There  should  be  holes  in  the  bucket,  to  let 
off  the  ice  as  it  thaws. 

Note.— When  any  fluid  tends  towards  cold,  the 
moving  it  quickly  accelerates  the  cold  ;  and  like 
wise,  when  any  fluid  is  tending  to  heat,  stirring  jA 
will  facilitate  its  boiling. 

Ice  Waters. 

Rub  some  fine  sugar  on  lemon  or  orange,  to  give 
the  colour  and  flavour,  then  squeeze  the  juice  of 
either  on  its  respective  peel  :  add  water  and  sugar 
to  make  a  fine  sherbet,  and  strain  it  before  it  be  put 
into  the  ice-pot.  If  orange,  the  greater  proportion 
should  be  of  the  China  juice,  and  only  a  little  ot 
Seville,  and  a  small  bit  of  the  peel  grated  by  J;h<» 
sugar. 

Currant  or  Raspberry-Water  Ice. 

The  juice  of  these,  or  any  other  sort  of  fruit,  be¬ 
ing  gained  by  squeezing,  sweetened,  and  mixed  with 
water  will  be  ready  for  icing. 

Ice-Creams. 

Mix  the  juice  of  the  fruits  with  as  much  sugar  as 
will  be  wanted,  before  you  add  cream,  which  should 
be  of  a  middle  richness. 

Brown  Bread  Ice. 

Orate  as  fine  as  possible  “t?1*  brown  bread,  soak 


167 

a  small  proportion  in  cream  two  or  three  hours, 
sweeten  and  ice  it. 

Ratafia  Cream. 

Blanch  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  bitter  almonds, 
and  beat  them  in  a  tea-spoonful  of  water  in  a  mar¬ 
ble  mortar  ;  then  rub  with  the  paste  two  ounces  of 
lump-sugar,  and  simmer  ten  minutes  with  a  tea-cup 
of  cream,  which  add  to  a  quart  more  of  cream,  and 
having  strained,  ice  it. 

Colourings  to  stain  Jellies,  Ices ,  or  Cakes. 

For  a  beautiful  red ,  boil  fifteen  grains  of  cochineal 
in  the  finest  powder,  with  a  drachm  and  a  half  of  cream 
of  tartar,  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  very  slowly,  half  an 
hour.  Add  in  boiling  a  bit  of  allum  the  size  of  a  pea, 
Or  use  beet-root  sliced,  and  some  liquor  poured 
over.  For  white  use  almonds  finely  powdered,  with 
a  little  water  :  or  use  cream. 

For  yellow ,  yolks  of  eggs,  or  a  bit  of  saffron,  steep¬ 
ed  in  liquor  and  squeezed. 

For  green,  pound  spinach-leaves  or  beet-leaves, 
express  the  juice,  and  boil  in  a  sauce-pan  in  a  tea¬ 
cupful  of  water  to  take  off  the  rawness. 

London  Syllabub. 

Put  a  pint  and  a  half  of  port  or  white  wine  into  a 
bowl,  nutmeg  grated,  and  a  good  deal  of  sugar  ;  then 
milk  into  it  near  two  quarts  of  milk,  frothed  up.  If 
the  wine  be  not  rather  sharp,  it  will  require  more 

of  brandy, sugar  and 
nutmeg  into  a  bowl,  and  milk  into  it ;  or  pour  warm 
milk  from  a  large  tea-pot  some  height  into  it. 

A  very  fine  Syllabub. 

In  a  large  China  bowl  put  a  pint  of  port,  and  a  pint 

[ 


for  this  quantity  of  milk. 

Syllabub 

Put  a  pint  of  cider  and  a  gh 


168 


of  sherry,  or  other  white  wine  ;  sugar  to  taste.-— 
Milk  the  bowl  full.  In  twenty  minutes’  time,  cover 
it  pretty  high  with  clouted  cream ;  grate  over  it 
nutmeg,  put  pounded  cinnamon,  and  nonpariel  com 
fits. 

Junket. 

Put  warm  milk  into  a  bowl :  turn  it  with  rennet ; 
then  put  some  scalded  cream,  sugar,  and  cinnamon, 
on  the  top,  without  breaking  the  curd. 

Everlasting ,  or  solid  Syllabubs. 

Mix  a  quart  of  thick  raw  cream,  one  pound  of  re¬ 
fined  sugar,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  fine  raisin  wine,  in  a 
deep  pan  ;  put  to  it  the  grated  peel  and  the  juice  of 
three  lemons.  Beat,  or  whisk  it  one  way  half  an 
hour ;  then  put  it  on  a  sieve  with  a  bit  of  thin  mus¬ 
lin  laid  smooth  in  the  shallow  end  till  next  day.  Put 
it  in  glasses.  It  will  keep  good  in  a  cool  place,  ten 
days.: 

Lemon  Honeycomb. 

Sweeten  the  juice  of  a  lemon  to  your  taste,  and 
put  in  the  dish  that  you  serve  it  in.  Mix  the  white 
of  an  egg  that  is  beaten  with  a  pint  of  rich  cream,  and 
a  little  sugar  ;  whisk  it,  and  as  the  froth  rises,  put  it 
on  the  lemon-juice.  Do  it  the  day  before  it  is  to  be 
used. 

Rice  and  Sago  Milks 

Axe  made  by  washing  the  seeds  nicely,  and  sim¬ 
mering  with  milk  over  a  slow  fire  till  sufficiently 
done.  The  former  sort  requires  lemon,  spice,  and 
sugar  ;  the  latter  is  good  without  any  thing  to  fla¬ 
vour  it. 

A  pretty  Supper  Dish. 

Boil  a  tea-cupful  of  rice,  having  first  washed  it  in 
milk  till  tender  :  strain  off  the  milk,  lay  the  nee  in 
little  heaps  on  a  dish,  strew  over  them  some  finely 


169 


powdered  sugar  and  cinnamon,  and  put  warm  wine 
and  a  little  butter  into  the  dish. 

Savoury  Rice. 

Wash  and  pick  some  rice,  stew  it  very  gently  in 
a  small  quantity  of  veal  or  rich  mutton  broth,  with 
an  onion,  a  blade  of  mace,  pepper,  and  salt.  When 
swelled,  but  not  boiled  to  mash,  dry  it  on  the  shallow 
end  of  a  sieve  before  the  fire,  and  either  serve  it  d,  y, 
or  put  it  in  the  middle  of  a  dish,  and  pour  the  gravy 
round,  having  heated  it. 

Salmagundy 

Is  a  beautiful  small  dish,  if  in  nice  shape,  and  if 
the  colours  of  the  ingredients  are  varied.  For  this 
purpose  chop  separately  the  white  part  of  cold  chick¬ 
en  or  veal,  yolks  of  eggs  boiled  hard,  the  whites  of 
eggs,  parsley,  half  a  dozen  anchovies,  beet-root,  red 
pickled  cabbage,  ham  and  grated  tongue,  or  any 
thing  well  flavoured,  and  of  a  good  colour.  Some 
people  like  a  small  proportion  of  onion,  but  it  may 
be  better  omitted.  A  saucer,  large  tea-cup,  or  any 
other  base,  must  be  put  into  a  small  dish  ;  then  make 
rows  round  it  wide  at  bottom,  and  growing  smaller 
Wwards  the  top  ;  choosing  such  of  the  ingredients 
for  each  row  as  will  most  vary  the  colours.  At  the 
top  a  little  sprig  of  curled  parsley  may  be  stuck  in, 
or,  without  any  thing  on  the  dish,  the  salmagundy 
may  be  laid  in  rows,  or  put  into  the  half  whites  of 
eggs,  which  may  be  made  to  stand  upright  by  cutting 
off  a  little  bit  at  the  round  end.  In  the  latter  case, 
ach  half  egg  has  but  one  ingredient.  Curled  but¬ 
ter  and  parsley  may  be  put  as  garnish  between. 

Macaroni  as  usually  served. 

Boil  it  in  milk,  or  a  weak  veal  broth,  pretty  well 
flavoured  with  salt.  When  tender,  put  it  into  a  dish 

15 


without  the  liquor,  and  among  it  put  some  bits  ot 
butter  and  grated  cheese,  and  over  the  top  grate 
more,  and  a  little  more  butter.  Set  the  dish  into  a 
Dutch  oven  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  but  do  not  let  the 
top  become  hard. 

Another  way. — Wash  it  well,  and  simmer  in  half 
milk  and  half  broth  of  veal  or  mutton,  till  it  is  ten¬ 
der.  To  a  spoonful  of  this  liquor  put  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  beaten  in  a  spoonful  of  cream,  just  make  it  hot 
to  thicken,  but  not  boil:  put  it  over  the  macaroni, 
and  then  grate  fine  old  cheese  all  over,  and  bits  ot 
butter.  Brown  with  the  salamander. 

Omlet. 

Make  a  batter  of  eggs  and  milk,  and  a  very  little 
Hour  ;  put  to  it  chopped  parsley,  green  onions,  or 
chives  or  a  very  small  quantity  of  shallot  (the  latter 
is  best)  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  a  scrape  or  two  of 
nutmeg.  Make  some  butter  boil  in  a  small  trying- 
pan,  and  pour  the  above  batter  into  it ;  when  one 
side  is  of  a  fine  yellow  brown,  turn  it,  and  do  the 
other.  Double  it  when  served.  Some  scraped  lean 
ham,  or  grated  tongue,  put  in  at  first,  is  a  very  plea¬ 
sant  addition.  Four  eggs  will  make  a  pretty  sized 
omlet ;  but  many  cooks  will  use  eight  or  ten.  A 
small  proportion  of  flour  should  be  used. 

If  the  taste  be  approved,  a  little  taragon  gives  a 
fine  flavour.  A  good  deal  of  parsley  should  be  used. 

Ramakins  and  omlet,  though  usually  served  in  the 
course,  would  be  much  better  if  they  were  sent  up 
after,  that  they  might  be  eaten  as  hot  as  possible. 

Ramakin$t. 

Scrape  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Cheshire,  and  ditto 
of  Gloucester  cheese,  ditto  of  good  fresh  butter ; 
then  beat  all  in  a  mortar  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
and  the  inside  of  a  small  French  roll  boiled  in  cream 


171 


till  soft ;  mix  the  paste  then  with  the  whites  of  the 
eggs  previously  beaten,  and  put  into  small  paper 
pans  made  rather  long  than  square,  and  bake  in  a 
Dutch  oven  till  of  a  fine  brown.  They  should  be 
eaten  quite  hot.  Some  like  the  addition  of  a  glass 
of  white  wine. 

The  batter  for  ramakins  is  equally  good  over  ma¬ 
caroni  when  boiled  tender  ;  or  on  stewed  broccoli, 
celery,  or  cauliflower  ;  a  little  of  the  gravy  they 
have  been  stewed  in  being  put  in  the  dish  with  them, 
but  not  enough  to  make  the  vegetable  swim. 

Roast  Cheese,  to  come  up  after  Dinner. 

Grate  three  ounces  of  fat  Cheshire  cheese,  mix  it 
with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  four  ounces  of  grated 
bread,  and  three  ounces  of  butter  ;  beat  the  whole 
well  in  a  mortar,  with  a  dessert-spoonful  of  mustard, 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper.  Toast  some  bread, 
cut  it  into  proper  pieces,  lay  the  paste  as  above 
thick  upon  them,  put  them  into  a  Dutch  oven  cover¬ 
ed  with  a  dish,  till  hot  through,  remove  the  dish, 
and  let  the  cheese  brown  a  little.  Serve  as  hot  as 
possible. 

Welsh  Rabit. 

Toast  a  slice  of  bread  on  both  sides,  and  butter  it; 
toast  a  slice  of  Gloucester  cheese  on  one  side,  and 
lay  that  next  the  bread,  and  toast  the  other  with  a 
salamander  ;  rub  mustard  over,  and  serve  very  hot, 
and  covered. 

Cheese  Toast. 

Mix  some  fine  butter,  made  mustard,  and  salt,  into 
a  mass  ;  spread  it  on  fresh-made  thin  toasts,  and 
grated  or  scrape  Gloucester  cheese  upon  them. 

Anchovy  Toast. 

Bone  and  skin  six  or  eight  pn^Vwmg  ;  pound  them 


/ 


172 


to  a  mess  with  an  ounce  of  fine  butter  till  the  colour 
is  equal,  and  then  spread  it  on  toasts  or  rusks. 

To  poach  Eggs. 

Set  a  stew-pan  with  water  on  the  fire  ;  when 
boiling,  slip  an  egg  previously  broken  into  a  cup, 
into  the  water  ;  when  the  white  looks  done  enough 
slide  an  egg-slice  under  the  egg,  and  lay  it  on  toast 
and  butter,  of  spinach.  As  soon  as  enough  are 
done,  serve  hot.  If  not  fresh  laid  they  will  not 
poach  well,  and  without  breaking.  Trim  the  rag¬ 
ged  part  of  the  whites,  and  make  them  look  round. 

To  boil  Eggs. 

Put  them  in  when  the  water  boils  ;  three  minutes 
and  a  half  will  boil  them  soft,  and  five  or  six  hard. 

Buttered  Eggs. 

Beat  four  or  five  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  together, 
put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a  basin,  and 
then  put  that  in  boiling  water ;  stir  it  till  melted, 
then  pour  that  butter  and  eggs  into  a  saucepan  ; 
keep  a  basin  in  your  hand,  just  hold  the  sauce-pan 
in  the  other  over  a  slow  part  of  the  fire,  shaking  it 
one  way,  as  it  begins  to  warm  ;  pour  it  into  a  basin 
and  back,  then  hold  it  again  over  the  fire,  stirring  it 
constantly  in  the  sauce-pan,  and  pouring  it  into  a  ba¬ 
sin,  more  perfectly  to  mix  the  egg  and  butter,  until 
they  shall  be  hot  without  boiling. 

Serve  on  toasted  bread  :  or  in  a  basin,  to  eat 
with  salt  fish,  or  red  herrings. 

Scotch  Eggs. 

Boil  hard  five  pullet’s  eggs,  and  without  remov¬ 
ing  the  white,  cover  completely  with  a  fine  relishing 
forcemeat,  in  which  let  scraped  ham,  or  chopped 
anchovy,  bear  a  due  proportion.  Fry  of  a  beautiful 


173 

yellow  brown,  and  serve  with  a  good  gravy  in  the 
dish. 

A  Pepper-pot. 

To  three  quarts  of  water,  put  such  vegetables  as 
you  choose  ;  in  summer,  peas,  lettuce,  spinach,  and 
two  or  three  onions ;  in  winter,  carrots,  turnips, 
onions,  and  celery.  Cut  them  very  small,  and  stew 
them  with  two  pounds  of  neck  of  mutton,  and  a  pound 
of  pickled  pork,  till  quite  tender.  Half  an  hour  be¬ 
fore  serving,  clear  a  lobster  or  crab  from  the  shell, 
and  put  it  into  the  stew.  Some  people  choose  very 
small  suet  dumplings  boiled  in  the  above.  Season 
with  salt  and  Cayenne. 

Instead  of  mutton  you  may  put  a  fowl.  Pepper¬ 
pot  may  be  made  of  various  things,  and  is  under¬ 
stood  to  be  a  proper  mixture  offish,  flesh,  fowl,  ve¬ 
getables,  and  pulse.  A  small  quantity  of  rice  should 
be  boiled  with  the  whole. 

SWEETMEATS. 

To  green  Fruits  Jor  preserving  or  pickling. 

Take  pippins,  apricots,  pears,  plums,  peaches, 
while  green,  for  the  first,  or  radish-pods,  French 
beans  for  the  latter,  and  cucumbers  for  both  pro¬ 
cesses  ;  and  put  them  with  vine-leaves  under  and 
over,  into  a  block-tin  preserving  pan,  with  spring- 
water  to  cover  them,  and  then  the  tin  cover  to  ex¬ 
clude  all  aiF.  Set  it  on  the  side  of  a  fire,  and  when 
they  begin  to  simmer,  take  them  off,  pour  off  the 
water,  and  if  not  green,  put  fresh  leaves  w  hen  cold, 
and  repeat  the  same.  Take  them  out  carefully  with 
a  slice  :  they  are  to  be  peeled,  and  then  done  accor-> 
ding  to  the  receipts  for  the  several  modes 
To  clarify  Sugar  for  Swetmeats. 

Break  as  much  as  required  in  large  lumps,  and 
■  15* 


174 


pat  a  pound  to  a  half  a  pint  of  water  in  a  bowl,  and 
it  will  dissolve  better  than  when  broken  small.  Set 
it  over  the  fire,  and  the  well  whipt  white  of  an  egg  ; 
let  it  boil  up,  and,  when  ready  to  run  over,  pour  a 
little  cold  water  in  to  give  it  a  check  ;  but  when  it 
rises  a  second  time,  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  set  it  by 
in  the  pan  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  during  which  the 
foulness  will  sink  to  the  bottom,  and  leave  a  black 
scum  on  the  top,  which  take  off  gently  with  a  skim¬ 
mer  and  pour  the  syrup  mto  a  vessel  very  quickly 
from  the  sediment. 

To  candy  any  sort  of  Fruit. 

When  finished  in  the  syrup,  put  a  layer  into  a 
new  sieve,  and  dip  it  suddenly  into  hot  water,  to 
take  off  the  syrup  that  hangs  about  it ;  put  it  on  a 
napkin  before  the  fire  to  drain,  and  then  do  some 
more  in  the  sieve.  Have  ready  sifted  doubled  re¬ 
fined  sugar,  which  sift  over  the  fruit  on  all  sides  till 
quite  white.  Set  it  on  the  shallow  end  of  sieves  in 
a  lightly  warm  oven,  and  turn  it  two  or  three  times. 
It  must  not  be  cold  till  dry.  W atch  it  carefully,  and 
it  will  be  beautiful. 

To  preserve  Apricots  with  Jelly. 

Pare  the  fruit  very  thin,  and  stone  it ;  weigh  an 
equal  quantity  of  sugar  in  fine  powder,  and  strew 
over  it.  Next  day  boil  very  gently  till  they  are 
clear,  move  them  into  a  bowl,  and  pour  the  liquor 
over.  The  following  day  pour  the  liquor  into  a 
quart  of  codlin-liquor,  made  by  boiling  and  straining, 
and  a  pound  of  fine  sugar  ;  let  it  boil  quickly  till  it 
will  jelly  :  put  the  fruit  into  it,  and  give  one  boil, 
skim  well,  and  put  into  small  pots. 

To  preserve  green  Apricots. 

Lay  vine  or  apricot  leaves  at  the  bottom  of  your 


175 


pan,  then  fruit,  and  so  alternately  till  full,  the  upper 
layer  being  thick  with  leaves  :  then  till  with  spring 
water,  and  cover  down  that  no  steam  may  come  out. 
Set  the  pan  at  a  distance  from  the  fire,  that  in  four 
or  five  hours  they  may  be  only  soft,  but  not  crack¬ 
ed.  Make  a  thin  syrup  of  some  of  the  water,  drain 
the  fruit.  When  both  are  cold,  put  the  fruit  into 
the  pan,  and  the  svrup  to  it  ;  put  the  pan  at  a  pro¬ 
per  distance  from  the  fire  till  the  apricots  green,  but 
on  no  account  boil  or  crack  ;  remove  them  very 
carefully  into  a  pan  with  the  syrup  for  two  or  three 
days  ;  then  pour  off  as  much  of  it  as  will  be  neces¬ 
sary,  and  boil  with  more  sugar  to  make  a  rich  syrup, 
and  put  a  little  sliced  ginger  into  it.  When  cold, 
and  the  thin  syrup  has  all  been  drained  from  the 
fruit,  pour  the  thick  over  it.  The  former  will  serve 
to  sweeten  pies. 

Apricots  or  Peaches  in  Brandy. 

Wipe,  weigh,  and  pick  the  fruit,  and  have  ready  a 
quarter  of  the  weight  of  fine  sugar  in  fine  powder. 
Put  the  fruit  into  an  ice-pot  that  shuts  very  close  ; 
throw  the  sugar  over  it,  and  then  cover  the  fruit  with 
brandy.  Between  the  top  and  the  cover  of  the  pot, 
put  a  piece  of  double  cap-paper.  Set  the  pot  into  a 
saucepan  of  water  till  the  brandy  be  as  hot  as  you 
can  possibly  bear  to  put  your  finger  in,  but  it  must 
not  boil.  Put  the  fruit  into  ajar,  and  pour  the  bran¬ 
dy  on  it.  When  cold,  put  a  bladder  over,  and  tie  it 
down  tight. 

Apricot  Cheese. 

Weigh  m  equal  quantity  of  pared  fruit  and  sugar, 
wet  the  1  otter  a  veiy  little,  and  let  it  boil  quickly,  or 
the.  colour  will  be  spoiled  ;  blanch  the  kernels,  and 
add  to  it.  Twenty  or  thirty  minutes  will  boil  it. — 
Put  it  in  small  pots  or  cups  half  filled- 


Orange  Marmalade. 

Rasp  the  oranges,  cut  out  the  pulp,  then  boil  the 
rinds  very  tender,  and  beat  fine  in  a  marble  mortar. 
Roil  three  pounds  of  loaf  sugar  in  a  pint  of  water, 
skim  it,  and  a  pound  of  the  rind  :  boil  it  fast  till  the 
syrup  is  very  thick,  but  stir  it  carefully  ;  then  put 
a  pint  of  the  pulp  and  juice,  the  seeds  having  been 
removed,  and  a  pint  of  apple  liquor  ;  boil  all  gen¬ 
tly  until  well  jellied,  which  it  will  be  in  about  half 
an  hour.  Put  it  into  small  pots. 

Lemon  marmalade  do  in  the  same  way  ;  they  are 
very  good  and  elegant  sweetmeats. 

Transparent  Marmalade. 

Cut  the  palest  Seville  oranges  in  quarters,  take 
the  pulp  out,  and  put  it  in  a  basin,  pick  out  the  seeds 
and  skins.  Let  the  outsides  soak  in  water  with  a 
little  salt  all  night,  then  boil  them  in  a  good  quantity 
of  spring  water  till  tender  ;  drain,  and  cut  them  in 
very  thin  slices,  and  put  them  to  the  pulp  ;  and  to 
every  pound,  a  pound  and  a  half  of  double  refi¬ 
ned  sugar  beaten  fine  ;  boil  them  together  twenty 
minutes,  but  be  careful  not  to  break  the  slices.  If 
not  quite  clear,  simmer  five  or  six  minutes  longer. 
It  must  be  stirred  all  the  time  very  gently.  When 
cold,  put  it  into  glasses. 

Orange  Chips. 

Cut  oranges  in  halves,  squeeze  the  juice  Through 
a  sieve  -n  soak  the  peel  in  water ;  next  day  boil  in 
the  same  till  tender,  drain  them,  and  slice  the  peels, 
put  them  to  the  juice,  weigh  as  much  sugar,  and  put 
all  together  into  a  broad  earthen  dish,  and  put  over 
the  fire  at  a  moderate  distance,  often  stirring  till  the 
chips  candy  ;  then  set  them  in  a  cool  room  to  dry. 
They  will  not  be  so  under  three  weeks. 


177 


Orange-flower  Cakes. 

Put  four  ounces  of  the  leaves  of  the  flowers  into 
cold  water  for  an  hour  ;  drain,  and  put  between  nap¬ 
kins,  androll  with  a  rolling-pin  till  they  are  bruised ; 
then  have  ready  boiled  a  pound  of  sugar  to  add  to  it 
in  a  thick  syrup,  give  them  a  simmer  until  the  syrup 
adheres  to  the  sides  of  the  pan,  drop  in  little  cakes 
on  a  plate,  and  dry  as  before  directed. 

To  preserve  Strawberries  whole. 

Take  equal  weights  of  the  fruit  and  double-refi 
ned  sugar  :  lay  the  former  in  a  large  dish,  and  sprin 
kle  half  the  sugar  in  fine  powder  over  ;  give  a  gen¬ 
tle  shake  to  the  dish,  that  the  sugar  may  touch  the 
under  sides  of  the  fruit.  Next  day  make  a  thin  sy¬ 
rup  with  the  remainder  of  the  sugar,  and,  instead  of 
water,  allow  one  pint  of  red  currant  juice  to  every 
pound  of  strawberries  ;  in  this,  simmer  them  until 
sufficiently  jellied.  Choose  the  largest  scarlets,  or 
others,  when  not  dead  ripe.  In  either  of  the  above 
ways,  they  eat  w'ell  served  in  thin  cream,  in  glasses. 

They  are  for  desserts  :  and  are  also  useful  as  A 
Stomachic,  to  carry  in  the  pocket  or  on  long  journeys, 
or  for  gentlemen  when  shooting,  and  for  gouty  sto¬ 
machs. 

To  preserve  Strawberries  in  Wine. 

Put  a  quantity  of  the  finest  large  strawberries  into 
a  large  gooseberry  bottle,  and  strew  in  three  large 
spoonfuls  of  fine  sugar;  fill  up  with  Madeira  wine,  or 
tine  sherry. 

To  dry  Cherries  the  best  way. 

To  every  five  pounds  of  cherries  stoned,  weigh 
one  of  sugar  double  refined.  Put  the  fruit  into  the 
preserving  pan  with  very  little  water,  make  both  scald¬ 
ing  hot ;  take  the  fruit  out  and  immediately  dry  them  ; 
put  them  into  the  pan  again,  strewing  the  sugar  be- 


178 


tween  each  layer  of  cherries  ;  let  it  stand  to  melt ; 
then  set  the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  make  it  scalding  hot 
as  before  ;  take  it  off,  and  repeat  this  thrice  with 
the  sugar.  Drain  them  from  the  syrup  ;  and  lay 
them  singly  to  dry  on  dishes,  in  the  sun  or  on  a  stove. 
When  dry,  put  them  into  a  sieve,  dip  it  into  a  pan  of 
cold  water,  and  draw  it  instantly  out  again,  and  pour 
them  on  a  fine  soft  cloth  ;  dry  them,  and  set  them 
once  more  in  the  hot  sun,  or  on  a  stove.  Keep 
them  in  a  box,  with  layers  of  white  paper,  in  a  dry 
place.  This  way  is  the  best  to  give  plumpness  to 
the  fruit,  as  well  as  colour  and  flavour. 

Cherries  in  Brandy. 

Weigh  the  finest  morellas,  having  cut  off  halfthe 
stalk  ;  prick  them  with  a  new  needle,  and  drop  them 
into  a  jar  or  wide  mouthed  bottle.  Pound  three  quar¬ 
ters  the  weight  ofsugar  or  white  candy  ;  strew  over  ; 
fill  up  with  brandy,  and  tie  a  bladder  over. 

Cherry  Jam. 

To  twelve  pounds  of  Kentish  or  duke  cherries, 
when  ripe,  weigh  one  pound  of  sugar  ;  break  the 
stoics  of  part,  and  blanch  them  ;  then  put  them  to 
the  n  uit  and  sugar,  and  boil  all  gently  till  the  jam 
comes  clear  from  the  pan  Pour  it  into  China  plates 
to  come  up  dry  to  table.  Keep  inboxes  with  white 
paper  between. 

Currant  Jam ,  black,  red,  or  white. 

Let  the  fruit  be  very  ripe,  pick  it  clean  from  the 
stalks,  bruise  it,  and  to  every  pound  put  three  quar¬ 
ters  of  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  ;  stir  it  well  and  boil 
half  an  hour. 

Currant  Jelly ,  red  or  black. 

Strip  the  fruit  and  in  a  stone  jar  strew  them  in  a 
sauce-pan  of  water,  or  by  boiling  it  on  the  hot  hearth  ; 


170 


strain  off  the  liquor,  and  to  every  pint  weigh  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar  ;  put  the  latter  in  large  lumps 
into  it,  in  a  stone  or  China  vessel,  till  nearly  dis¬ 
solved  ;  then  put  it  in  a  preserving-pan  ;  simmer 
and  skim  as  necessary.  When  it  will  jelly  on  a 
plate,  put  it  in  small  jars  or  glasses. 

Apple  Marmalade. 

Scald  apples  till  they  will  pulp  from  the  core 
then  take  an  equal  weight  of  sugar  in  large  lumps 
just  dip  them  in  water,  and  boiling  it  till  it  can  be 
well  skimmed,  and  is  a  thick  syrup,  put  to  it  the 
pulp,  and  simmer  it  on  a  quick  fire  a  quarter  of  an 
hour.  Grate  a  little  lemon-peel  before  boiled,  but 
if  too  much  it  will  be  bitter. 

Apple  Jelly  for  preserving  Apricots,  or  any  sort  oj 
Sweetmeats. 

Let  apples  be  pared,  quartered,  and  cored  ;  put 
them  into  a  stew-pan  with  as  much  water  as  will  co¬ 
ver  them,  boil  as  fast  as  possible  ;  when  the  fruit  is 
all  in  a  mash,  add  a  quart  of  water  ;  boil  half  an 
hour  more,  and  run  through  a  jelly-bag. 

If  in  summer,  codlins  are  best :  in  Septembei 
golden  rennets,  or  winter  pippins. 

Red  Apples  in  Jelly. 

Pare  and  core  some  well  shaped  apples,  pippins, 
or  golden  rennets  if  you  have  them,  but  others  will 
do  :  throw  them  into  water  as  you  do  them,  put 
them  in  a  preserving-pan  and  with  as  little  water  as 
will  only  half  cover  them  ;  let  them  coddle,  and 
when  the  lower  side  is  done  turn  them.  Observe 
that  they  do  not  lie  too  close  when  first  put  in.  Mix 
some  pounded  cochineal  with  the  water,  and  boil 
with  the  fruit.  When  sufficiently  done,  take  them 
out  on  the  dish  they  are  to  be  served  in,  the  stalks 

% 


180 


downwards.  Take  the  water  and  make  a  rich  jelly 
of  it  with  loaf-sugar,  boiling  the  thin  rind  and  juice 
of  a  lemon.  When  come  to  a  jelly  let  it  grow  cold, 
and  put  it  on  and  among  the  apples  ;  cut  the  peel  o. 
the  lemon  in  narrow  strips,  and  put  across  the  eye 
of  the  apple. 

Observe  that  the  colour  be  tine  from  the  first,  or 
the  fruit  will  not  afterwards  gain  it,  and  use  as  little 
of  the  cochineal  as  will  serve,  lest  the  syrup  taste 
bitter. 

Dried  Apples. 

Put  them  in  a  cool  oven  six  or  seven  times,  and 
flatten  them  by  degrees,  and  gently,  when  soft 
enough  to  bear  it.  If  the  oven  be  too  hot  they  will 
waste,  and  at  first  it  should  be  very  cool. 

The  biffin,  the  minshul  crab,  or  any  tart  apples, 
are  the  sort  for  drying. 

To  preserve  Jargane  Pears  most,  beautifully. 
are  them  very  thin,  and  simmer  in  a  thin  syrup  ; 
let  them  lie  a  day  or  two.  Make  the  syrup  richer, 
and  simmer  again,  and  repeat  this  till  they  are  clear  ; 
then  drain,  and  dry  them  in  the  sun  or  a  cool  oven 
a  very  little  time.  They  may  be  kept  in  syrup, 
and  dried  as  wanted,  which  makes  them  more  moist 
and  rich. 

Goosberry  Jamfor*Tarts. 

Put  twelve  pounds  of  the  red  hairy  gooseberries, 
when  ripe  and  gathered  in  dry  weather,  into  a  pre¬ 
serving-pan,  with  a  piut  of  currant-juice,  drawn  as 
for  jelly  :  let  them  boil  pretty  quick,  and  beat  them 
with  the  spoon,  when  they  begin  to  break,  put  to 
them  six  pounds  of  pure  white  Lisbon  sugar,  and 
simmer  slowly  to  a  jam.  It  requires  long  boiling  or 
will  not  keep  :  but  is  an  excellent  and  reasonable 
thing  for  tarts  or  puffs.  Look  at  it  in  two  or  three 


days,  and  if  the  syrup  and  fruit  separate,  the  whole 
must  be  boiled  longer.  Be  careful  it  does  not  burn 
to  the  bottom 

White  Gooseberry  Jam. 

Gather  the  finest  white  gooseberries,  or  green  if 
you  choose,  when  just  ripe,  top  and  tail  them.  To 
each  pound  put  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine 
sugar,  and  half  a  pint  of  water.  Boil  and  clarify  the 
sugar  in  the  water  as  before  directed,  then  add 
the  fruit,  simmer  gently  till  clear,  then  break  it,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  put  the  jam  into  small  pots. 

Raspberry  Jam. 

Weigh  equal  quantities  of  fruit  and  sugar,  put  the 
former  into  a  preserving-pan,  boil  and  break  it,  stir 
constantly,  and  let  it  boil  very  quickly.  When 
most  of  the  juice  is  wasted,  add  sugar,  and  simmer 
half  an  hour.  This  way  the  jam  is  greatly  superior 
in  colour  and  flavour  to  that  which  is  made  by  put¬ 
ting  the  sugar  in  at  first. 

To  preserve  Greengages. 

Choose  the  largest,  when  they  begin  to  soften  ; 
split  them  without  paring,  and  strew  a  part  of  the 
sugar  which  you  have  previously  weighed  an  equal 
quantity  of.  Blanch  the  kernels  with  a  small  sharp 
knife.  Next  day,  pour  the  syrup  from  the  fruit,  and 
boilitwith,  the  other  sugar,  six  or  eight  minutes,  ve¬ 
ry  gently  ;  skim  and  add  the  plums  and  kernels. — 
Simmer  till  clear,  taking  off  any  scum  that  rises  : 
put  the  fruit  singly  into  small  pots,  and  pour  the  sy- 
tup  and  kernels  to  it.  If  you  would  candy  it,  do 
riot  add  the  syrup,  but  observe  the  directions  that 
will  be  given  for  candying  fruit ;  some  may  be  done 
each  way. 

Damson  Cheese. 

Babe  or  boil  the  fruit  in  a  stone  jar  in  a  sauce-pan 

16 


182 


of  water,  or  on  a  hot  hearth.  Pour  off  some  of  the 
juice,  and  to  every  two  pounds  of  fruit  weigh  halt 
a  pound  of  sugar.  Set  the  fruit  over  a  fire  in  the 
pan,  let  it  boil  quickly  till  it  begin  to  look  dry  ;  take 
out  the  stones,  and  add  the  sugar,  stir  it  well  in,  and 
simmer  two  hours  slowly,  then  boil  it  quickly  half 
an  hour,  till  the  sides  of  the  pan  candy  :  pour  the 
jam  then  into  potting-pans  or  dishes  about  an  inch 
thick,  so  that  it  may  cut  firm.  If  the  skins  be  dis¬ 
liked,  then  thejuice  is  not  to  be  taken  out  ;  but  af¬ 
ter  the  first  process,  the  fruit  is  to  be  pulped  through 
a  very  coarse  sieve  with  the  juice,  and  managed  as 
above.  The  stones  are  to  be  cracked,  or  some  of 
them,  and  the  kernels  boiled  in  the  jam.  All  the 
juice  may  be  left  in,  and  boiled  to  evaporate,  but  do 
not  add  the  sugar  until  it  has  done  so.  The  above 
looks  well  ia  shapes. 

Quince  Marmalade. 

Pare  and  quarter  quinces,  weigh  an  equal  quantity 
of  sugar,  to  four  pounds  of  the  latter  put  a  quart  ot 
water,  boil  and  skim,  and  have  it  ready  against  four 
pounds  of  quinces  are  tolerably  tender  by  the  fol¬ 
lowing  mode ;  lay  them  in  a  stone  jar,  with  a  tea¬ 
cup  of  water  at  the  bottom,  and  pack  them  with  a  lit¬ 
tle  sugar  strewed  between  :  cover  the  jar  close,  and 
set  it  on  a  stove  or  cool  oven,  and  let  them  soften  till 
the  colour  become  red  ;  then  pour  the  fruit-syrup 
and  a  quart  of  quince  juice  int o  a  preserving-pan,  and 
boil  all  together  till  the  marmalade  be  unpleted, 
breaking  the  lumps  of  fruit  with  the  preserving  ladle. 

This  fruit  is  so  hard,  that  if  it  be  not  done  as  above, 
it  requires  a  great  deal  of  time. 

Stewing  quinces  in  ajar,  and  then  squeezing  them 
through  a  cheese  cloth,  is  the  best  methed  of  ob 


183 


fcaining  the  juice  to  add  as  above  ;  and  aip  the  cloth 
in  boiling  water  first  and  wring  it. 

To  preserve  whole  or  half  Quinces. 

Into  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  put  a  quantity  of 
the  fairest  golden  pippins,  in  slices  not  very  thin,  and 
not  pared,  put  wiped  clean.  Boil  them  very  quick, 
close  covered,  till  the  water  becomes  a  thick  jelly  ; 
then  scald  the  quinces.  To  every  pint  of  pippin  jel¬ 
ly  put  a  pound  of  the  finest  sugar  ;  boil  it  and  skim 
it  clear.  Put  those  quinces  that  are  to  be  done 
whole  into  the  syrup  at  once,  and  let  it  boil  very 
fast  ;  and  those  that  are  to  be  in  halves  by  them¬ 
selves  ;  skim  it,  and  when  the  fruit  is  clear,  pul 
some  of  the  syrup  into  a  glass  to  try  whether  it  jel¬ 
lies  before  taking  off  the  fire.  The  quantity  of 
quinces  is  to  be  a  pound  to  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  a 
pound  of  jelly  already  boiled  with  the  sugar. 

Raspberry  Cakes. 

Pick  out  any  bad  raspberries  that  are  among  the 
fruit,  weigh  and  boil  what  quantity  you  please,  and 
when  mashed,  and  the  liquor  is  wasted,  put  to  it 
sugar  the  vveight  of  the  fruit  you  first  put  into  the 
pan,  mix  it  well  off  the  fire  until  perfectly  dissolved, 
then  put  it  on  China  plates,  and  dry  it  in  the  sun. 
As  soon  as  the  top  part  dries,  cut  with  the  cover  of 
a  canister  into  small  cakes,  turn  them  on  fresh 
plates,  and  when  dry,  put  them  in  boxes  with  layers 
of  paper. 

TO  FRESKRVE  FRUITS  FOR  WINTER  USE. 

Sweetmeats  should  be  kept  carefully  from  the 
air,  and  in  a  very  dry  place,  unless  they  have  a  very 
small  proportion  of  sugar,  a  warm  one  does  not  hurt, 
but  when  not  properly  boiled  (that  is  long  enough, 
put  not  quick,)  heat  makes  them  ferment;  and 


134 


damp  causes  them  to  grow  mouldy.  They  should 
be  looked  at  two  or  three  times  in  the  first  two 
months,  that  they  may  be  gently  boiled  again,  if  not 
likely  to  keep. 

Jellies  of  fruit  made  with  equal  quantity  of  sugar, 
that  is  a  pound  to  a  pint,  require  no  very  long  boil¬ 
ing. 

A  pap  should  be  kept  for  the  purpose  of  preserv¬ 
ing  ;  of  double  block  tin,  with  a  bow  handle  oppo¬ 
site  the  straight  one  for  safety,  will  do  very  well  . 
and  if  put  by  nicely  cleaned,  in  a  dry  place,  when 
done  with,  will  last  for  several  years.  Those  of 
copper  or  brass  are  improper,  as  the  tinning  wears 
out  by  the  scraping  of  the  sweetmeat-ladle.  There 
is  a  new  sort  of  iron  with  a  strong  tinning,  which 
promises  to  wear  long.  Sieves  and  spoons  should 
be  kept  likewise  for  sweet  things. 

Sweetmeats  keep  best  in  drawers  that  are  not 
connected  with  a  wall.  If  there  be  the  least  damp, 
cover  them  only  with  paper  dipped  in  brandy,  laid 
quite  close  ;  putting  a  little  fresh  over  in  spring,  to 
prevent  insect  mould. 

When  any  sweetmeats  are  directed  to  be  dried  in 
the  sun  or  in  a  stove,  it  will  be  best  in  private  fami¬ 
lies,  where  there  is  not  a  regular  stove  for  the  pur¬ 
pose,  to  put  them  in  the  sun  on  flag  stones,  which 
reflect  the  heat,  and  place  a  garden  glass  over  them 
to  keep  insects  off;  or  if  put  into  an  oven,  take  care 
not  to  let  it  be  too  warm,  and  watch  that  they  do 
properly  and  slowly. 

To  keep  Currants. 

The  bottles  being  perfectly  clean  and  dry,  let  the 
currants  be  cut  from  the  large  stalks  with  the  smal¬ 
lest  bit  of  stalk  to  each,  that  the  fruit  not  being 
wounded,  no  moisture  may  be  among  them  It  is 


185 


necessary  to  gather  them  when  the  weather  is  quite 
dry  ;  and  if  the  servant  can  be  depended  upon  it  is 
best  to  cut  them  under  the  trees,  and  let  them  drop 
gently  into  the  bottles. 

Stop  up  the  bottles  with  cork  and  rosin,  and  put 
them  into  the  trench  in  the  garden  with  the  neck 
downwards  ;  sticks  should  be  placed  opposite  to 
where  each  sort  of  fruit  begins. 

Cherries  and  Damsons  keep  in  the  same  way. 

Currants  may  be  scalded  as  directed  for  goose¬ 
berries,  the  first  method. 

To  keep  Codlins  for  several  months. 

Gather  codlins  at  midsummer,  of  a  middling  size, 
put  them  into  an  earthen  pan,  pour  boiling  water 
over  them,  and  cover  the  pan  with  cabbage-leaves. 
Keep  them  by  the  fire  till  they  would  peel,  but  do 
not  peel  them  :  then  pour  the  water  off' till  both  are 
quite  cold.  Place  the  codlins  then  in  a  stone  jar 
with  a  small  mouth,  and  pour  on  them  the  water  that 
scalded  them.  Cover  the  pot  with  bladder  wetted, 
and  tied  very  close,  and  then  over  it  with  coarse  pa¬ 
per  tied  again. 

It  is  best  to  be  kept  in  small  jars,  such  as  will  be 
used  at  once  when  opened. 

To  keep  Gooseberries. 

Before  they  become  too  large,  let  them  be  ga¬ 
thered,  and  take  care  not  to  cut  them  in  taking  off 
the  stalks  and  buds.  Fill  wide-mouthed  bottles  ;  put 
the  corks  loosely  in,  and  set  the  bottle  up  to  the  neck 
in  water  in  a  boiler.  When  the  fruit  looks  scalded, 
take  them  out  ;  and  when  perfectly  cold,  cork  close, 
and  rosin  the  top.  Dig  a  trench  in  a  part  of  the 
garden  least  used,  sufficiently  deep  for  all  the  bot¬ 
tles  to  stand,  and  let  the  earth  be  thrown  over,  to  co¬ 
ver  them  a  foot  and  a  ha‘f.  When  the  frost  comes 

6* 


186 


on,  a  little  fresh  litter  from  the  stable  will  prevent 
the  ground  from  hardening,  so  that  the  fruit  cannot 
be  dug  up.  Or,  scald  as  above  ;  when  cold  fill  the 
bottles  with  cold  water,  cork  them,  and  keep  them 
in  a  damp  or  dry  place  ;  they  will  not  be  spoiled. 

To  keep  Damsons  for  winter  Pies. 

Put  them  in  small  stone  jars,  or  wide  mouthed 
bottles  ;  set  them  up  to  their  necks  in  a  boiler  ol 
cold  water  :  and  lighting  a  fire  under,  scald  them. 
Next  day,  when  perefctly  cold,  fill  up  with  spring 
water,  cover  them. 

Another  way. — Boil  one  third  as  much  sugar  as 
fruit  with  it,  over  a  slow  fire,  till  the  juice  adheres 
to  the  fruit,  and  forms  a  jam.  Keep  it  in  small  jars 
in  a  dry  place.  If  too  sweet,  mix  with  it  some  of 
the  fruit  that  is  done  without  sugar. 

To  preserve  Fruit  for  Tarts,  or  Family-desserts. 

Cherries,  plums  of  all  sorts,  and  American  apples, 
gather  when  ripe,  and  lay  them  in  small  jars  that  will 
hold  a  pound  :  strew  over  each  jar  six  ounces  of 
good  loaf-sugar  pounded  ;  cover  with  two  bladders 
each,  separately  tied  down  ;  then  set  the  jars  in  a 
large  stew-pan  of  water  up  to  the  neck,  and  let  it 
boil  th-ree  hours  gently.  Keep  these  and  all  other 
sorts  of  fruit  free  from  damp. 

To  keep  Lemon  Juice. 

Buy  the  fruit  when  cheap,  keep  it  in  a  cool  place, 
two  or  three  days  :  if  too  unripe  to  squeeze  readily, 
cut  the  peel  off  some,  and  roll  them  under  your 
hand  to  make  them  part  with  the  juice  more  readily, 
others  you  may  leave  unpared  for  grating,  when  the 
pulp  shall  be  taken  out  and  dried.  Squeeze  the 
juice  into  a  China  basin  ;  then  strain  it  through 
some  muslin  which  will  not  nermit  the  least  pulp  to 


1S7 


pass.  Have  ready  half  and  quarter  ounce  phials 
perfectly  dry,  fill  them  with  the  juice  so  near  the 
top  as  only  to  admit  half  a  tea-spoonful  of  sweet  oil 
into  each  ;  or  a  little  more,  if  for  larger  bottles. — 
Cork  the  bottles,  and  set  them  upright  in  a  cool 
place. 

When  you  wrant  lemon  juice  open  such  a  sized 
bottle  as  you  shall  use  in  two  or  three  days  ;  wind 
some  clean  cotton  round  a  skewer,  and  dipping  it  in 
the  oil  will  be  attracted  ;  and  when  all  shall  be  re¬ 
moved  the  juice  w  .11  be  as  fine  as  when  first  bottled. 

Hang  the  peels  up  till  dry  ;  then  keep  them  from 
the.  dust. 

China-orange  Juice.  A  vary  useful  thing  to  mix  with 

water  in  Fevers ,  when  the  fresh  juice  cannot  he  pro¬ 
cured. 

Squeeze  from  the  finest  fruit,  a  pint  of  juice  strain¬ 
ed  through  fine  muslin,  and  gently  simmer  with  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  double  refined  sugar  twenty 
minutes  :  when  cold,  put  in  small  bottles. 

Different  ways  of  dressing  Cranberries. 

For  pies  and  puddings,  with  a  good  deal  of  sugar. 

Stewed  in  a  jar,  with  the  same  ;  which  way  they 
eat  well  with  bread,  and  are  verv  wholesome. 

Thus  done,  pressed  and  strained,  the  juice  makes 
a  fine  drink  for  people  in  fevers. 

Orgeat. 

Bod  a  quart  of  new  milk  with  a  stick  of  cinnamon, 
sweeten  to  your  taste,  and  let  it  grow  cold  ;  then 
pour  it  by  degrees  to  three  ounces  of  almonds,  and 
twenty  bitter,  that  have  been  blanched  and  beaten 
to  a  paste,  with  a  little  water  to  prevent  oiling  ;  boil 
all  together,  and  stir  till  cold,  then  add  half  a  glass 
of  brandy. 


188 


Another  way. — Blanch  and  pound  three  quarters 
of  a  pound  of  almonds,  and  thirty  bitter,  with  a  spoon¬ 
ful  of  water.  Stir  in  by  degrees  two  pints  of  wa¬ 
ter,  and  three  of  milk,  and  strain  the  whole  through 
a  cloth  Dissolve  half  a  pound  of  fine  sugar  in  a 
pint  of  water,  boil  and  skim  it  well  ;  mix  it  with  the 
other,  as  likewise  two  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower 
water,  and  a  tea-cupful  of  the  best  brandy. 

Lemonade  to  be  made  a  day  before  wanted. 

Pare  two  dozen  of  tolerably  sized  lemons  as  thin 
as  possible,  put  eight  of  the  rinds  into  three  quarts 
of  hot,  not  boiling  water,  and  cover  it  over  for  three  or 
four  hours.  Rub  some  fine  sugar  on  the  lemons  to 
attract  the  essence,  and  put  it  into  a  China  bowl,  in¬ 
to  which  squeeze  the  juice  of  the  lemons.  To  it 
add  one  pound  and  a  half  of  fine  sugar,  then  put 
the  water  to  the  above,  and  three  quarts  of  milk 
made  boiling  hot  ;  mix,  and  pour  through  a  jelly-bag 
till  perfectly  clear. 

Lemonade  that  has  the  flavour  und  appearance  of  Jelly. 

Pare  two  Seville  oranges  and  six  lemons  as  thin  as 
possible,  and  steep  them  four  hours  in  a  quart  of  hot 
water.  Boil  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  loaf-sugar  in 
three  pints  of  water,  and  skim  it.  Add  the  two  li¬ 
quors  to  the  juice  of  six  China  oranges,  and  twelve 
lemons  :  stir  the  whole  well,  and  run  it  through  a 
jelly-bag  till  clear.  Then  add  a  little  orange-water, 
if  you  like  the  flavour,  and,  if  wanted,  more  sugar. 
It  will  keep  well  if  corked. 

Raspberry  Vinegar. 

Put  a  pound  of  fine  fruit  into  a  China  bowl,  and 
pour  upon  it  a  quart  of  the  best  white  wine  vinegar  : 
next  day  strain  the  liquor  on  a  pound  of  fresh  rasp¬ 
berries  :  and  the  following  day  do  the  same,  but  do 
not  squeeze  the  fruit,  only  drain  the  liquor  as  dry  as 


16D 


you  can  from  it.  The  last  time  pass  it  through  a 
canvass  previously  wet  with  vinegar  to  prevent 
waste.  Put  it  into  a  stone  jar,  with  a  pound  of  su¬ 
gar  to  every  pint  of  juice,  broken  into  large  lumps  ; 
stir  it  when  melted,  then  put  the  jar  into  a  sauce¬ 
pan  of  water,  or  on  a  hot  hearth,  let  it  simmer  and 
skim  it.  When  cold,  bottle  it. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  useful  preparations  that 
can  be  kept  in  a  house,  not  only  as  affording  the 
most  refreshing  beverage  ;  but  being  of  singular  ef¬ 
ficacy  in  complaints  of  the  chest.  A  large  spoonful 
or  two  in  a  tumbler  of  water.  Be  careful  to  use  no 
glazed  nor  metal  vessel  for  it. 

The  fruit,  with  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar,  makes 
excellent  Raspberry  Cakes  without  boiling. 


CAKES,  BREAD,  &.C. 

Observations  on  making  and  baking  Cakes . 

Eggs  should  be  very  long  beaten,  whites  and  yolks 
apart,  and  always  strained. 

Sugar  should  be  rubbed  to  a  powder  on  a  clean 
board,  and  sifted  through  a  very  fine  hair  or  lawn 
sieve. 

Lemon-peel  should  be  pared  very  thin,  and  with 
a  little  sugar  beaten  in  a  marble  mortar,  to  a  paste, 
and  then  mixed  with  a  little  wine,  or  cream,  so  as  to 
divide  easily  among  the  other  ingredients. 

Whether  black  or  white  plum-cakes,  they  require 
less  butter  and  eggs  for  having  yeast,  and  eat  equally 
light  and  rich.  If  the  leaven  be  only  of  flour,  milk 
and  water,  and  yeast,  it  becomes  more  tough,  and  is 
less  easily  divided,  than  if  the  butter  be  first  put 
with  those  ingredients,  and  the  dough  afterwards  set 
to  rise  bv  the  fire 


190 


The  heat  of  the  oven  is  of  great  importance  fo: 
cakes,  especially  those  that  are  large.  If  not  pretty 
quick,  the  batter  will  not  rise,  Should  you  fear  its 
catching  by  being  too  quick,  put  some  paper  over  the 
cake  to  prevent  its  being  burnt.  If  not  long  enough 
lighted  to  have  a  body  of  heat,  or  it  is  become  slack, 
the  cake  will  be  heavy.  To  know  when  it  is  soaked, 
take  a  broad-bladed  knife  that  is  very  bright,  and 
plunge  into  the  very  centre,  draw  it  instantly  out, 
and  if  the  least  stickiness  adhere,  put  the  cake  im¬ 
mediately  in,  and  shut  up  the  oven. 

Iceingfor  Cakes. 

For  a  large  one,  beat  and  sift  eight  ounces  of  fine 
sugar,  put  into  a  mortar  with  four  spoonfuls  of  rose¬ 
water,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  and  strain¬ 
ed,  whisk  it  well,  and  when  the  cake  is  almost  cold, 
dip  a  feather  in  the  iceing,  and  cover  the  cake  well ; 
set  it  in  the  oven  to  harden,  but  do  not  let  it  stay  to 
discolour.  Set  the  cake  in  a  dry  place 
To  ice  a  very  large  Cake. 

Beat  the  whites  of  twenty  fresh  eggs,  then  bv  de¬ 
grees  beat  a  pound  of  double  refined  sugar  sifted 
through  a  lawn  sieve  :  mix  these  well  in  a  deep 
earthen  pan  ;  add  orange-flower  water,  and  a  piece 
of  fresh  lemon-peel  ;  of  the  former  enough  to  fla¬ 
vour,  and  no  more.  Whisk  it  for  three  hours  till 
the  mixture  is  thick  and  white  ;  then  with  a  thin 
broad  bit  of  board  spread  it  all  over  the  top  and  sides, 
and  set  it  in  a  cool  oven,  and  an  hour  will  harden  it. 

A  common  Cake. 

Mix  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour  with  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  four  eggs, 
half  an  ounce  of  caraways,  and  a  glass  of  raisin 


191 


wine.  Beat  it  well,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.— - 
Fine  Lisbon  sugar  will  do. 

A  very  good  common  Cake. 

Rub  eight  ounces  ol'  butter  in  two  pounds  of  dried 
flour,  mix  it  with  three  spoonfuls  of  yeast  that  is  not 
bitter,  to  a  paste.  Let  it  rise  an  hour  and  a  half ; 
then  mix  in  the  yolks  and  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten 
apart,  one  pound  of  sugar,  some  milk  to  make  it  a 
proper  thickness  (abou’t  a  pint  will  be  sufficient)  a 
glass  of  sweet  wine,  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  a  tea¬ 
spoonful  of  ginger.  Add  either  a  pound  of  currants, 
or  some  caraways,  and  beat  well. 

An  excellent  Cake. 

Rub  two  pounds  of  dry  fine  flour,  with  one  of  butter, 
washed  in  plain  and  rose-water,  mix  it  with  three 
spoonfuls  of  yeast  in  a  little  warm  milk  and  water. 
Set  it  to  rise  an  hour  and  a  half  before  the  fire  ;  then 
beat  into  it  two  pounds  of  currants,  one  pound  of  su¬ 
gar  sifted,  four  ounces  of  almonds,  six  ounces  of 
stoned  raisins,  chopped  fine,  half  a  nutmeg,  cinna¬ 
mon,  alspice,  and  a  few  cloves,  the  peel  of  a  lemon 
chopped  as  fine  as  possible,  a  glass  of  wine,  ditto  of 
brandy,  twelve  yolks  and  whites  of  eggs  beat  sepa¬ 
rately  and  long,  orange,  citron  and  lemon.  Beat 
exceedingly  well,  and  butter  the  pan.  A  quick 
oven. 

Rout-Drop  Cakes. 

Mix  two  pounds  of  flour,  one  ditto  butter,  one 
ditto  sugar,  one  ditto  currants  clean  and  dry  ;  then 
wet  into  a  stiff  paste,  with  two  eggs,  a  large  spoon  of 
orange-flower  water,  ditto  rose-water,  ditto  sweet 
wine,  ditto  brandy,  drop  on  a  tin  plate  floured ;  a 
very  short  time  bakes  them. 

Little  white  Cal  «. 

Pry  half  a  uound  of  flour,  rub  into  it  a  very  little 


pounded  sugar,  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  egg,  a  few 
caraways,  and  as  much  milk  and  water  as  to  make  a 
paste  ;  roll  it  thin,  and  cut  it  with  the  top  of  a  cannis- 
ter  or  glass.  Bake  fifteen  minutes  on  tin  plates. 

Little  short  Cakes. 

Rub  into  a  pound  of  dried  flour  four  ounces  of 
butter,  four  ounces  of  white  powdered  sugar,  one  egg, 
and  a  spoonful  or  two  of  thin  cream  to  make  it  into 
a  paste.  When  mixed,  put  currants  into  one  half, 
and  caraways  into  the  rest.  Cut  them  as  before,  and 
bake  on  tins. 

Plum  Cakes. 

Mix  thoroughly  a  quarter  of  a  peck  of  fine  flour, 
well  dried,  with  a  pound  of  dry  and  sifted  loaf  su¬ 
gar,  three  pounds  of  currants  washed  and  very  dry, 
half  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned  and  chopped,  a  quar¬ 
ter  of  an  ounce  of  mace  and  cloves,  twenty  Jamaica 
peppers,  a  grated  nutmeg,  the  peel  of  a  lemon  cut 
as  fine  as  possible,  and  half  a  pound  of  almonds 
blanched  and  beaten  with  orange-flower  water. — 
Melt  two  pounds  of  butter  in  a  pint  and  a  quarter  of 
cream,  but  not  hot  ;  put  to  it  a  pint  of  sweet  wine, 
a  glass  of  brandy,  the  whites  and  yolks  of  twelve 
eggs  beaten  apart,  and  half  a  pint  of  good  yeast. — 
Strain  this  liquid  by  degrees  into  the  dry  ingredients, 
beating  them  together  a  full  hour,  then  butter  the 
hoop,  or  pan,  and  bake  it.  As  you  put  the  bat¬ 
ter  into  the  hoop,  or  pan,  throw  in  plenty  of  cit¬ 
ron,  lemon,  and  orange-candy. 

Tf  you  ice  the  cake,  take  half  a  pound  of  double 
refined  sugar  sifted,  and  put  a  little  with  the  white 
of  an  egg,  beat  it  well  and  by  degrees  pour  in  the 
remainder.  It  must  be  whisked  near  an  hour, 
with  the  addition  of  a  little  orange-flower  water ;  but 


193 


mind  not  to  put  much.  When  the  cake  is  done,  pour 
the  iceing  over,  and  return  it  to  the  oven  for  fifteen 
minutes  ;  but  if  the  oven  be  warm,  keep  it  near  the 
mouth,  and  the  door  open,  lest  the  colour  be  spoiled. 

Very  good  common  Plum  Cakes. 

Mix  five  ounces  of  butter  in  three  pounds  of  dry 
flour,  and  five  ounces  of  fine  Lisbon  sugar  :  add  six 
ounces  of  currants,  washed  and  dried,  and  some  pi¬ 
mento  finely  powdered.  Put  three  spoonfuls  of  yeast 
into  a  Winchester  pint  of  new  milk  warmed,  and  mix 
in,  to  a  light  dough  with  the  above.  Make  it  into 
twelve  cakes,  and  bake  on  a  floured  tin  halfanhour. 

Little  Plum  Cakes  to  keep  long. 

Dry  one  pound  of  flour,  and  mix  with  six  ounces 
of  finely  pounded  sugar  ;  beat  six  ounces  of  butter 
to  a  cream,  and  add  to  three  eggs,  Wall  beaten,  half 
a  pound  of  currants  washed,  and  nicely  dried,  and 
the  flour  and  sugar  ;  beat  all  for  some  time,  then 
dredge  flour  on  tin  plates,  and  drop  the  batter  on 
them  the  size  of  a  walnut.  If  properly  mixed,  it 
will  be  a  stiff  paste.  Bake  in  a  brisk  oven. 

A  good  Pound  Cake. 

Beat  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  cream,  and  mix  with  it 
the  whites  and  yolks  of  eight  eggs  beaten  apart. — 
Have  ready  warm  by  the  fire,  a  pound  of  flour,  and 
the  same  of  sifted  sugar,  mix  them  and  a  few  cloves, 
a  little  nutmeg  and  cinnamon,  in  fine  powder  toge¬ 
ther  :  then  by  degrees  work  the  dry  ingredients  into 
the  butter  and  eggs.  When  well  beaten,  add  a  glass 
of  wine  and  some  caraways.  It  must  be  beaten  a  full 
hour.  Butter  a  pan,  and  bake  it  a  full  hour  in  a 
quick  oven. 

The  above  proportions,  leaving  out  four  ounces 
|  17 


1 


194 

of  the  butter,  and  the  same  of  sugar,  make  a  less 
luscious  cake,  and  to  most  tastes  a  more  pleasant  one, 
A  cheap  Seed  Cake. 

Mix  a  quarter  of  a  peck  of  flour  with  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  ofalspice,  and  a  little 
ginger  ;  melt  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
with  half  a  pint  of  milk  :  when  just  warm,  put  to  it 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  yeast,  and  work  up  to  a  good 
dough.  Let  it  stand  before  the  fire  a  few  minutes 
before  it  goes  to  the  oven  ;  add  seeds,  or  currants, 
and  bake  an  hour  and  a  half. 

Queen  Cakes. 

Mix  a  pound  of  dried  flour,  the  same  of  sifted  su 
gar,  and  of  washed  clean  currants.  Wash  a  pound 
of  butter  in  rose  water,  beat  it  well,  then  mix  with 
it  eight  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately,  and 
put  in  the  dry  ingredients  by  degrees;  beat  the 
whole  an  hour  ;  butter  little  Ads  tea-cups,  or  sau¬ 
cers,  and  bake  the  batter  in,  filling  only  half.  Sift 
a  little  fine  sugar  over  just  as  you  put  into  the  oven. 
Shrew  sherry  Cakes. 

Sift  one  pound  of  sugar,  some  pounded  cinnamon, 
and  a  nutmeg  grated,  into  three  pounds  of  flour,  the 
finest  sort ;  add  a  little  rose-water  to  three  eggs, 
well  beaten,  and  mix  these  with  the  flour,  &c.  thea 
pour  into  it  as  much  butter  melted  as  will  make  it  a 
good  thickness  to  roll  out. 

Mould  it  well,  and  roll  thin,  and  cut  it  into  suco 
shapes  as  you  like. 

Tunbridge  Cakes. 

Rub  six  ounces  of  butter  quite  fine,  into  a  pound 
of  flour,  then  mix  six  ounces  of  sugar,  beat  and 
strain  two  eggs,  and  make  with  the  above  into  a  paste. 
Roll  it  very  thin,  and  cut  with  the  top  of  a  glass  ; 


195 


prick  them  with  a  fork,  and  cover  with  caraways,  or 
wash  with  the  white  of  an  egg,  and  dust  a  little  white 
sugar  over. 

Rice  Cake. 

Mix  ten  ounces  of  ground  rice,  three  ouices  oi 
flour,  eight  ounces  of  pounded  sugar  ;  then  sift  by 
degrees  into  eight  yolks  and  six  whites  of  eggs,  and 
the  peel  of  a  lemon  shred  so  fine  that  it  is  quite 
mashed  ;  mix  the  whole  well  in  a  tin  stew-pan  over 
a  very  slow  fire  with  a  whisk,  then  put  it  immedi¬ 
ately  into  the  oven  in  the  same,  and  bake  forty  mi¬ 
nutes. 

Water  Cakes 

Dry  three  pounds  of  fine  flour,  and  rub  into  it  one 
pound  of  sugar  sifted,  one  pound  of  butter,  and  one 
ounce  of  caraway -seed,  Make  it  into  a  paste  with 
three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  boiling  new  milk,  roll  very 
thin,  and  cut  into  the  size  you  choose  ;  punch  full  ot 
holes,  and  bake  on  tin  plates  in  a  cool  oven. 

Sponge  Cake. 

Weigh  ten  eggs,  and  their  weight  in  very  fine  su¬ 
gar,  and  that  of  six  in  flour  ;  beat  the  yolks  with  the 
flour,  and  the  whites  alone,  to  a  very  stiff  froth  ; 
then  by  degrees  mix  the  whites  and  the  flour  with 
the  other  ingredients,  and  beat  them  well  half  an 
hour.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  an  hour 

Tea  Cakes. 

Rub  fine  four  ounces  of  butter  into  eight  ounces  oi 
flour,  mix  eight  ounces  of  currants,  and  six  oi  fine 
Lisbon  sugar,  two  yolks  and  one  white  of  eggs,  and  a 
spoonful  of  brandy.  Roll  the  paste  the  thickness 
of  an  Oliver  biscuit,  and  cut  with  a  wine-glass. — 
You  may  beat  the  other  while,  and  wash  over  them  ; 
and  either  dust  sugar,  or  not,  as  you  like. 


190 


Benton  Tea  Cakes. 

Mix  a  paste  of  flour,  a  little  bit  of  butter,  and  milk ; 
roll  as  thin  as  possible,  and  bake  on  a  back-stone  over 
the  fire,  or  on  a  hot  hearth. 

A  Biscuit  Cake. 

One  pound  of  flour,  five  eggs,  well  beaten  and 
strained  eight  ounces  of  sugar,  a  little  rose  or 
orange-flower  water ;  beat  the  whole  thoroughly,  and 
bake  one  hour. 

Macaroons. 

Blanch  four  ounces  of  almonds,  and  pound  with 
four  spoonfuls  of  orange-flower  water ;  whisk  the 
whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  froth,  then  mix  it  in  a  pound 
of  sugar,  sifted  with  the  almonds,  to  a  paste  ;  and 
laying  a  sheet  of  wafer-paper  on  a  tin,  put  it  on  in 
different  little  cakes,  the  shape  of  macaroons. 

Wafers. 

Dry  the  flour  well  which  you  intend  to  use,  mix  a 
little  pounded  sugar,  and  finely  pounded  mace  with 
it :  then  make  it  into  a  thick  batter  with  cream  : 
butter  the  wafer-irons,  let  them  be  hot,  put  a  tea¬ 
spoonful  of  the  butter  into  them,  so  bake  them  care¬ 
fully,  and  roll  them  off  the  iron  with  a  stick. 

Crack-nuts. 

Mix  eight  ounces  of  flour  and  eight  ounces  of  sugar, 
melt  four  ounces  of  butter  in  two  spoonfuls  of  raisin 
wine  :  then,  with  four  eggs  beaten  and  strained,  make 
into  a  paste  ,  add  caraways,  roll  out  as  thin  as  paper, 
cut  with  the  top  of  a  glass,  wash  with  the  white  of 
an  egg,  and  dust  sugar  over. 

Cracknels. 

Mix  with  a  quart  of  flour  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten,  with  four  spoonfuls  of 
rose-water  into  a  stiff  paste,  with  cold  water  :  then 


197 


roll  in  a  pound  of  butter,  and  make  them  into  a  crack¬ 
nel-shape  ;  put  them  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
and  boil  them  till  they  swim,  then  take  out,  and  put 
them  into  cool  water  ;  when  hardened,  lay  them  out 
to  dry,  and  bake  them  on  tin  plates. 

A  good  plain  Bun,  that  may  be  eaten  with  or 
without  toasting  and  butter. 

Rub  four  ounces  of  butter  into  two  ponnds  of  flour, 
four  ounces  of  sugar,  a  nutmeg  or  not,  as  you  like  : 
a  few  Jamaica-peppers  :  a  dessert  spoonful  of  cara¬ 
ways  ;  put  a  spoonful  or  two  of  cream  into  a  cup  of 
yeast,  and  as  much  good  milk  as  will  make  the  above 
into  a  light  paste.  Set  it  to  rise  by  a  fire  till  the 
oven  he  ready.  They  will  quickly  bake  on  tins. 

Gingerbread. 

Mix  with  two  pounds  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
treacle,  three  quarters  of  an  ounce  of  caraways,  one 
ounce  of  ginger  finely  sifted,  and  eight  ounces  of  but¬ 
ter. 

Roll  the  paste  into  what  form  you  please,  and  bake 
on  tins,  after  having  worked  it  very  much,  and  kept 
it  to  rise. 

If  you  like  sweetmeats,  add  orange  candied  ;  it 
may  be  added  in  small  bits. 

A  good  plain  sort. — Mix  three  pounds  of  flour  with 
half  a  pound  of  butter,  four  ounces  of  brown  sugar, 
half  an  ounce  of  pounded  ginger ;  then  make  into  a 
paste  with  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  treacle  warm. 

Rusks. 

Beat  seven  eggs  well  and  mix  w  ith  half  a  pint  of 
new  milk,  in  which  have  been  melted  four  ounces 
of  butter  ;  add  to  it  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  yeast,  and 
three  ounces  of  sugar,  and  put  them,  by  degrees, 

,  into  as  much  flour  as  will  make  a  very  light  paste, 

17* 


198 


rather  like  a  batter,  and  let  it  rise  before  the  fire 
half  an  hour  ;  then  add  some  more  flour,  to  make  it 
a  little  stiffer,  but  not  stiff.  Work  it  well,  and  di¬ 
vide  it  into  small  loaves,  or  cakes,  about  five  or  six 
inches  wide,  and  flatten  them.  When  baked  and 
cold,  slice  them  the  thickness  of  rusks,  and  put  them 
in  the  oven  to  brown  a  little. 

Note. — The  cakes,  when  first  baked,  eat  delicious¬ 
ly,  buttered,  for  tea  ;  or,  with  caraways,  to  eat  cold. 

BREAD. 

The  method  of  making  leaven. 

When  leaven  is  to  be  first  produced,  a  lump  of 
yeast  dough  must  be  put  into  a  pan  and  set  it  in  a 
cold  damp  place.  In  about  ten  or  fourteen  days  it 
will  be  in  a  proper  state  to  use  as  a  ferment  for  bread. 
At  every  making  of  bread,  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the 
leavened  dough  should  be  laid  by  for  the  leaven 
against  the  next  baking.  The  makers  of  bread  with 
leaven,  have  learnt  from  experience,  that  it  is  best 
to  use  the  same  pan  for  keeping  the  leaven  and  the 
same  tub  for  making  the  bread,  without  ever  wash¬ 
ing  them.  They  are  kept  clean  by  scraping.  It  is 
always  best  to  borrow  a  piece  of  leaven,  to  begin 
with,  if  this  can  be  done,  rather  than  to  make  it  for 
immediate  use. 

To  make  Perpetual  Yeast. 

Take  a  pound  of  fine  flour,  and  mix  it  up  with 
boiling  water  to  about  the  thickness  of  a  moderately 
thick  water  gruel ;  add  half  a  pound  of  coarse  moist 
sugar,  and  when  it  is  milk  warm  pour  it  upon  three 
large  spoonfuls  of  well  purified  yeast  in  a  pan  large 
enough  to  give  room  for  the  fermentation.  As  it 
ferments  take  olf  the  yeast  and  put  it  into  a  stone 
bottle  with  a  small  neck,  cork  it,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry 
warm  place.  When  half  used  replenish  it  with 


199 


dour  and  water  prepared  as  at  first,  but  no  addition 
of  yeast  will  be  required.  This  is  to  be  the  regu¬ 
lar  process  to  keep  up  the  stock. 

Artificial  Yeast. 

Boil  some  meal)  potatoes  till  they  are  soft,  then- 
peel  them,  and  when  brufsed  add  as  much  boiling 
water  as  will  make  them  of  the  consistence  of  com¬ 
mon  yeast.  To  every  pound  of  potatoes  put  in  two 
ounces  of  coarse  moist  sugar  or  treacle,  and  two  ta¬ 
ble  spoonfuls  of  good  yeast,  stirred  in  while  the  po¬ 
tatoes  are  warm.  Make  this  in  a  vessel  large  enough 
to  admit  of  the  fermentation,  and  keep  it  warm  till  it 
has  done  fermenting.  It  will  then  be  fit  for  use. — 
Let  it  be  kept  in  a  cellar. 

To  make  Bread  with  Leaven. 

The  proportion  of  leaven  to  flour,  is  a  piece  of 
the  size  of  a  goose’s  egg  to  half  a  peck  of  flour. — 
Take  such  quantities  of  each  as  the  occasion  may  de¬ 
mand,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour,  break 
the  leaven  into  it,  and  put  as  much  water,  made  blood 
warm,  as  will  wet  half  the  flour.  Mix  the  leaven 
and  flour  well  together,  then  cover  it  over  close 
with  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  and  let  it  stand  all 
night.  The  next  morning  the  whole  lump  will  be 
well  fermented  or  leavened.  Add  as  much  warm 
water,  taking  care  it  is  not  warmer  than  blood,  as 
will  mix  it,  and  knead  it  up  very  stiff  and  firm  till  it 
be  smooth  and  pliable.  The  more  pains  that  are 
taken  in  kneading  the  dough,  the  better  and  smooth¬ 
er  the  bread  will  cut ;  as  well  as  tasting  softer  and 
pleasanter  in  the  mouth,  and  being  easier  of  diges¬ 
tion.  W!  ™  <be  dough  is  well  kneaded,  let  it  stand 
by  the  fire  «...  m  two  hours,  then  make  it  up  into 
loaves  and  bake  them.  The  time  of  baking  must 


200 


■depend  on  the  size  of  the  loaves.  A  quarten  loaf 
will  require  two  hours  and  a  half.  Some  salt  must  be 
added  in  the  morning  with  the  fresh  quantity  of  wa¬ 
ter. 

To  make  bread  with  Yeast. 

Put  half  a  bushel  of  flour  into  a  trough,  mix  half  a 
pint  of  good  thick  yeast  with  two  quarts  of  water, 
milk  warm  ;  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour, 
pouf  this  into  it,  and  mix  it  lightly  with  a  part  of  the 
flour  into  a  kind  of  batter.  Strew  a  handful  of  flour 
over  it,  and  let  the  remainder  lie  round  it.  This  is 
called  setting  the  sponge,  and  should  be  done  in  the 
evening.  By  the  next  morning  it  will  be  much  .en. 
Add  then  two  more  quarts  of  water,  milk  warn  vitb 
two  ounces  of  salt  in  it.  Work  it  up  into  a  'etty 
stiff  dough,  knead  it  thoroughly,  and  let  it  e  for 
two  or  three  hours.  Then  mould  it  up  into  aves, 
and  bake  them  according  to  the  size.  A  quarten  loaf 
requires  two  hours  and  a  half  in  a  well  heated  oven, 
and  smaller  loaves  in  proportion. 

If  the  yeast  is  Pot  very  thick  and  good,  some  ad¬ 
dition  must  be  made  in  the  quantity  to  make  up  for 
it. 

The  above  receipt  is  for  fine  flour  ;  for  flour  with 
only  the  coarse  bran  taken  out,  a  rather  larger  pro¬ 
portion  of  water  must  be  used. 

If  the  flour  is  dry  it  will  require  more  water  than 
when  fresh.  The  above  receipt  is  intended  for 
fresh  flour. 

In  cold  weather  the  dough  should  be  set  by  the  fire 
to  rise  after  it  is  kneaded  :  and  the  water  may  be 
used  rather  warmer,  but  must  never  be  hot. 

To  make  Bread  with  a  mixture  of  Rice. 

Stew  a  pound  of  whole  rice  in  water  till  it  is  quite 
tender,  pour  off  the  water,  and  put  the  rice  before 


it  is  cold  to  four  pounds  and  a  half  of  wheaten  flour-. 
Add  the  usual  quantity  of  yeast,  (about  a  quarter  of 
a  pint,)  rather  more  than  the  usual  quantity  of  salt, 
and  as  much  luke-warm  water  as  will  make  it  into 
dough.  It  will  require  the  same  time  to  rise  as  com¬ 
mon  bread,  and  is  to  be  baked  in  the  same  manner. 

The  produce  of  the  above  quantities,  viz.  five 
pound*  and  a  half,  is  ten  pounds  of  bread.  The  rice 
is  not  perceptible  in  it,  so  that  it  is  in  appearance 
the  s  line  as  is  of  wheaten  flour  alone.  It  eats  well, 
and  is  not  as  soon  stale  as  the  common  bread.  If  the 
dough  is  mixed  up  with  the  w;  ter  the  rice  was  boiled 
in,  it  gives  the  bread  more  suostance. 

Potato  and  riour  Bread. 

Weigh  half  a  pound  of  mealy  potatoes  after  they 
are  boiled  or  steamed,  and  rub  them,  while  warm,  in¬ 
to  a  pound  and  a  half  of  fine  flour  dried  for  a  little 
while  before  the  fire.  When  thoroughly  mixed, 
put  in  a  spoonful  and  a  half  of  yeast,  a  little  salt,  and 
warm  milk  and  water  enough  to  worK  it  into  dough. 
Let  this  stand  by  the  fire  to  rise  for  an  hour  and  a 
half,  then  make  it  into  a  loaf  and  bake  it  in  a  mode¬ 
rately  brisk  oven. 

If  baked  in  a  tin  the  crust  will  be  more  delicate, 

but  the  bread  dries  sooner. 

Another  Potato  and  Flour  Bread. 

To  two  pounds  of  well  boiled  mealy  potatoes  rub¬ 
bed  between  the  hands  till  they'  are  as  fine  as  flour, 
mix  in  thoroughly  two  large  double  handtuls  ol  whea¬ 
ten  flour,  three  good  spoonfuls  of  yeast,  a  little  salt, 
and  warm  milk  enough  to  make  it  the  usual  stiffness 
of  dough.  Let  it  stand  three  or  four  hours  to  rise, 
then  mould  it,  make  it  up,  and  bake  it  like  common 
bread. 


202 


Rolls  with  a  mixture  of  Potatoes. 

Dry  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour.  Bruise  a  pound 
of  well  boiled,  me  ly  potatoes,  and  work  them  with 
half  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  half  a  pint  of  milk,  till 
they  will  pass  through  a  colander.  Put  a  quarter 
of  a  pint  of  warm  water  to  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
yeast,  add  these  and  some  salt  to  the  potatoes,  and 
mix  the  whole  up  with  the  flour.  If  it  works  up  too 
stiff  a  little  more  milk  must  be  added.  When  it  is 
well  kneaded,  set  it  before  the  fire  to  rise,  for  half 
an  hour,  then  work  it  up  into  common  sized  rolls, 
and  bake  hem  half  an/hour  in  a  pretty  quick  oven. 

Frtnch  Rolls. 

Rub  an  ounce  of  batter  into  a  pound  of  flour  ;  add 
to  ii  one  egg,  <two  spoonfuls  of  yeast,  and  a  little 
salt,  mixed  with  as  much  milk  just  warmed,  as  will 
make  it  into  a  light  paste.  Let  this  rise  half  an  hour, 
then  make  it  into  moderate  sized  rolls,  and  set  them 
before  the  fire  for  an  hour  longer.  Half  an  hour 
will  bake  them,  in  a  quick  oven. 

Long  Rolls. 

Take  two  pounds  of  flour,  rub  into  it  two  ounces 
of  butter,  and  two  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  finely  pow¬ 
dered.  P ut  to  these  four  large  spoonfuls  of  pretty 
thick  yeast,  and  milk  enough,  made  just  warm,  to 
mix  it  into  a  light  paste.  Set  this  before  the  fire  to 
rise  for  half  an  hour,  then  roll  out  the  dough  thin, 
into  moderate  lengths,  let  them  stand  before  the  fire 
an  hour,  and  then  bake  them  in  a  slac  oven  for  half 
an  hour. 

Yorkshire  Cakes. 

Dry  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour  before  the  fire. 
Beat  up  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  with  two  spoonfuls 
of  good  new  yeast,  and  add  to  these  three-quarters 
of  a  pint  of  new  milk  just  warmed.  Strain  the  whole 


203 


through  a  sieve  into  the  flour.  Mix  it  lightly  into  a 
dough,  and  let  it  rise  by  the  fire  for  an  hour.  Make 
it  up  into  cakes  about  the  size  of  a  large  saucer,  put 
them  on  a  tin,  and  let  them  stand  before  the  fire  for 
a  little  while,  before  they  are  set  into  the  oven. — 
Half  an  hour  will  bake  them.  The  oven  should  be 
moderately  hot. 

Three  ounces  of  fresh  butter  rubbed  into  the  flour 
will  make  these  cakes  eat  shorter,  but  they  are  light¬ 
est  without  it. 

Yorkshire  Knead  Cakes. 

Rub  six  ounces  of  butter  into  a  pound  of  flour  till 
it  is  very  fine,  mix  it  into  a  stiff-  paste  with  milk. — 
Knead  it  well,  and  roll  it  out  several  times.  On 
rolling  it  out  the  last  time,  let  it.be  about  an  inch 
thick,  and  cut  it  out  into  cakes,  in  shapes  according 
to  the  fancy.  B  ike  them  on  an  irongridle.  When 
done  on  one  side  turn  them  on  the  other.  Cut  them 
open  and  butter  them  hot.  They  also  eat  well  cold 
or  toasted.  Half  a  pound  of  currants  well  washed 
and  dried  may  be  added  at  pleasure. 

Muffins. 

Lay  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  ale  yeast  of  as  light  a 
colour  as  can  be  got,  into  cold  water,  and  let  it  stand 
all  night.  The  next  morning  pour  the  water  off 
clear  from  it.  Warm  a  quart  of  water,  milk-warm, 
and  stir  the  yeast,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  salt, 
well  into  it  for  five  or  six  minutes.  Strain  it  into 
half  a  peck  of  fine  white  flour,  mix  it  into  a  dough 
as  lightly  as  possible,  and  let  it  lie  in  the  trough  for 
an  hour  to  rise,  covered  with  flannel.  Pull  the 
dough  into  small  pieces  with  the  hand,  rolling  them 
as  done  in  a  good  deal  of  flour,  and  roll  them  thin 
with  a  rolling-pm,  lay  them  directly  under  a  flannel, 

I  and  they  will  rise  to  a  proper  thickness.  Bake  them 


204 


upon  a  hot  hearth  or  an  iron  stove.  When  done 
on  one  side  turn  them  on  the  other,  but  they  must 
not  be  browned. 

Crumpets. 

The  dough  may  be  made  as  above  for  the  muffins. 
When  it  has  stood  to  rise,  give  it  a  roll  with  the 
hand,  pull  it  into  little  pieces  about  the  size  of  a 
small  pullet’s  egg,  roll  them  with  the  hand  like  a 
ball,  and  lay  them  directly  under  a  flannel.  Bake 
them  as  above,  only  these  must  be  lightly  browned 
Tops  and  Bottoms. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  and  the  whites  of  four, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  yeast.  Melt  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter  in  a  half  pint  of  new  milk,  and 
when  about  the  warmth  of  milk  from  the  cow,  strain 
it  into  a  pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  with  two  ounces 
of  powdered  sugar  mixed  into  it.  Beat  this  up  like 
a  batter  rather  than  work  it  up  into  a  dough,  and 
set  it  to  rise  before  the  fire  for  half  an  hour.  Then 
work  it  up  well  with  a  little  more  flour,  but  not  to 
make  stiff.  Bake  it  in  tins  of  two  inches  square  in 
breadth,  and  three  inches  high,  flattened  on  all  sides. 
When  baked  let  them  stand  to  cool,  then  part  them 
in  two,  and  brown  them  a  little  in  the  oven. 

This  preparation  will  also  make  rusks,  if  made  up 
into  flat  cakes  about  six  inches  wide,  and  twelve  or 
fourteen  long.  When  baked,  slice  them  after  they 
are  cold  the  thickness  of  rusks,  and  set  them  into  the 
oven  to  brown. 

If  made  up  about  the  size  of  a  common  saucer, 
and  eaten  after  the  first  baking,  they  are  very  nice 
buttered  for  tea. 

French  Rusks. 

Weigh  a  pound  of  yolks  of  eggs,  and  a  pound  and 
»  half  of  powdered  sugar  :  put  these  in  a  pan  to- 


205 


gether,  and  stir  them  about  thoroughly  with  a  large 
wooden  spoon  for  ten  minutes.  Add  an  ounce  of 
carraway-seeds,  and  two  pounds  of  flour.  Mix  all 
together  into  a  paste,  and  mouid  it  upon  a  clean  pye- 
board,  into  rolls  of  about  fourteen  or  fifteen  inches 
long,  and  between  two  or  three  inches  thick.  Lay 
these  upon  a  paper,  and  press  them  down  with  the 
hand  till  about  an  inch  thick  in  the  middle,  and  flat¬ 
tened  down  almost  to  a  point  at  the  edges.  Put  them 
upon  a  wire  plate  with  two  or  three  sheets  of  paper 
under  them,  besides  the  paper  they  are  made  upon. 
Bake  them  with  great  care,  not  to  overdo  them,  as 
they  would  then  break  in  the  cutting.  When  they 
come  out  of  the  oven,  wet  the  paper  underneath, 
that  they  may  come  off  while  Wj-irm.  Cut  them  with 
a  sharp  knife  into  rusks  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  lay  them  flat  on  the  wire,  and  put  them  into 
the  oven  till  crisp  and  dry. 

Potato  Rolls. 

Boil  three  pounds  of  potatoes,  bruise  and  work 
them  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  as  much  milk 
as  will  make  them  pass  through  a  colander.  Take 
half  or  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  yeast  and  a  half 
pint  of  warm  water,  mix  with  the  potatoes,  then 
pour  the  whole  upon  five  pounds  of  flour,  and  add 
some  salt.  Knead  it  well  :  if  not  of  a  proper  con¬ 
sistence,  put  a  little  more  milk  and  water  warm; 
let  it  stand  before  the  fire  an  hour  to  rise  :  work  it 
well,  and  make  into  rolls.  Bake  about  half  an  hour 
in  an  oven  not  quite  so  hot  as  for  bread. 

They  eat  well,  toasted  and  buttered. 

Hard  Biscuit. 

Warm  two  ounces  of  butter  in  as  much  skimmed 
milk  as  will  make  a  pound  of  flour  into  a  very  stiff 

18 


206 


paste,  beat  it  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  work  it  very 
smooth.  Roll  it  thin,  and  cut  it  into  round  biscuits  ; 
prick  them  full  of  holes  with  a  fork.  About  six  mi¬ 
nutes  will  bake  them. 


SICK  COOKERY. 

Calves'  Feet  Broth. 

Boil  two  feet  in  three  quarts  of  water,  to  half; 
strain  and  set  it  by  ;  when  to  be  used,  take  off  the 
fat,  put  a  large  tea-cupful  of  the  jelly  into  a  sauce¬ 
pan,  with  half  a  glass  of  sweet  wine,  a  little  sugar  and 
nutmeg,  and  heat  it  up  till  it  be  ready  to  boil,  then 
take  a  little  of  it,  and  beat  by  degrees  to  the  yolk  of 
an  egg,  and  adding  a  bit  of  butter,  the  size  of  a  nut¬ 
meg,  stir  all  together,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Grate 
a  bit  of  fresh  lemon-peel  into  it. 

Beef  Tea . 

Cut  a  pound  of  fleshy  beef  in  thin  slices  ;  simmer 
with  a  quart  of  water  twenty  minutes,  after  it  has 
once  boiled,  and  been  skimmed.  Season,  if  approv¬ 
ed  ;  but  it  has  generally  only  salt. 

Dr.  Radcliff's  Restorative  Pork  Jelly. 

Take  a  leg  of  well-fed  pork,  just  as  cut  up,  bea«. 
it,  and  break  the  bone,  ^et  it  over  a  gentle  fire, 
with  three  gallons  of  water,  and  simmer  to  one. — 
Let  halt  an  ounce  of  mace,  and  the  same  of  nutmegs, 
stew  in  it.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  When  cold, 
take  off  the  fat.  Give  a  chocolate-cup  the  first  and 
last  thing,  and  at  noon,  putting  salt  to  taste. 

Skank  Jelly. 

Soak  twelve  shanks  of  mutton  four  hours,  then 
brush  and  scour  them  very  clean.  Lay  them  in  a 
sauce-pan  with  three  blades  of  mace,  an  onion,  twen¬ 
ty  Jamaica  and  and  thirty  or  forty  black  peppers,  a 


207 


bunch  of  sweet  herbs  ;  and  a  crust  of  bread  made 
very  brown  by  toasting.  Pour  three  quarts  of  wa¬ 
ter  to  them,  and  set  them  on  a  hot  hearth  close  co¬ 
vered  :  let  them  simmer  as  gently  as  possible  for 
five  hours,  then  strain  it  off,  and  put  it  in  a  cold 
place. 

This  may  have  the  addition  of  a  pound  of  beef,  if 
approved,  for  flavour.  It  is  a  remarkable  good 
thing  for  people  who  are  weak. 

Arrow-root  Jelly. 

Of  this  beware  of  having  the  wrong  sort,  for  it  has 
been  counterfeited  with  bad  effect.  If  genuine,  it  is 
very  nourishing,  especially  for  weak  bowels.  Put 
into  a  sauce-pan  half  a  pint  of  water,  a  glass  of  sher¬ 
ry  or  a  spoonful  of  brandy,  grafed  nutmeg,  and  fine 
sugar  :  boil  once  up,  then  mis  it  by  degrees  into  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  arrow-root,  previously  rubbed 
smooth  with  two  spoonfuls  of 'cold  water  ;  then  re¬ 
turn  the  whole  into  tho  sauce-pan  ;  stir  and  boil  it 
three  minutes. 

Panada  made  in  Jive  minutes. 

Set  a  little  water  on  the  fire  with  a  glass  of  white 
wine  some  sugar,  and  a  scrape  of  nutmeg  and  lemon- 
peel  ;  meanwhile  grate  some  crumbs  of  bread.  The 
moment  the  mixture  boils  up,  keeping  it  still  on  the 
fire  put  the  crumbs  in,  and  let  it  boil  as  fast  as  it 
can.  When  of  a  proper  thickness  justto  drink,  take 
it  off. 

Another. — Put  to  the  water  a  bit  of  lemon-peel, 
mix  the  crumbs  in,  and  when  nearly  boiled  enough, 
put  some  lemon  or  orange  syrup.  Observe  to 
boil  all  the  ingredients  ;  for  if  any  he  added  after, 
the  panada  will  break,  and  notjelly. 

Chicken  Panada. 

Boil  it  till  about  three  pijrts  ready,  in  a  quart  ol 


208 


water,  take  it  off  the  skin,  cut  the  white  meat  off 
when  cold,  and  put  into  a  marble  mortar  :  pound  it 
to  a  paste  with  a  httle  of  the  water  it  was  boiled  in, 
season  with  a  little  salt,  a  grate  of  nutmeg,  and  the 
least  bit  of  lemon-peel.  Boil  gently  for  a  few  mi¬ 
nutes  to  the  consistency  you  like  :  it  should  be  such 
as  you  can  drink,  though  tolerably  thick. 

This  conveys  great  nourishment  in  small  compass. 

Sippets  when  the  stomach  will  nor  receive  meat. 

On  an  extremely  hot  plate  put  two  or  three  sip¬ 
pets  of  bread,  and  pour  over  them  some  gravy  from 
beef,  mutton,  or  veal  if  there  is  no  butter  in  the  dish 
Sprinkle  a  little  salt  over. 

A  very  supporting  Broth  aginst  any  kind  of 
weakness. 

Boil  two  pounds  of  loin  of  mutton,  with  a  very 
large  handful  of  chervil,  in  two  quarts  of  water  to 
one.  Take  off  part  of  the  fat.  Any  other  herb  or 
roots  may  be  added.  Take  half  a  pint  three  or  four 
times  a  day. 

A  very  nourishing  Veal  Broth. 

Put  the  knuckle  of  a  leg  or  shoulder  of  veal,  with 
very  little  meat  to  it,  an  old  fowl,  and  four  shank 
bones  of  mutton  extremely  well  soaked  and  bruised, 
three  blades  of  mace,  ten  pepper-corns,  an  onion, 
and  a  large  bit  of  bread,  and  three  quarts  of  water, 
into  a  stew-pot  that  covers  close,  and  simmer  in  the 
slowest  manner  after  it  has  boiled  up,  and  been 
skimmed  ;  or  bake  it  ;  strain,  and  take  off  the  fat. 
Salt  as  wanted.  It  will  require  four  hours. 

Broth  of'  Beef ,  Mutton,  and  Veal. 

Put  two  pounds  of  lean  beef,  one  pound  of  scrag 
of  veal,  one  pound  of  scrag  of  mutton,  sweet  herbs, 
and  ten  pepper-corns,  into  a  nice  tin  sauce-pan.  with 
five  quarts  of  water,  simmer  to  three  quarts,  and 


20(J 


clear  from  the  fat  when  cold.  Add  one  onion  if 
approved. 

Soup  and  broth  made  of  different  meats,  are  more 
supporting,  as  well  as  better  flavoured. 

To  remove  the  fat,  take  it  off  when  cold  as  clean 
as  possible  ;  and  if  there  be  still  any  remaining,  lay 
a  bit  of  clean  blotting  or  cap  paper  on  the  broth 
when  in  the  basin,  and  it  will  take  up  every  particle. 

Eggs. 

An  egg  broken  into  a  cup  of  tea,  or  beaten  and  mix¬ 
ed  w  ith  a  basin  of  milk,  makes  a  breakfast  more  sup¬ 
porting  than  a  tea  solely. 

An  egg  divided,  and  the  yolk  and  white  beaten  se¬ 
parately,  then  miked  with  a  glass  of  wine,  will  afford 
two  very  wholesome  draughts,*  and  prove  lighter 
than  when  taken  together. 

Eggs  very  little  boiled  or  poached,  taken  in  small 
quantity,  convey  much  nourishment  ;  the  yolk  only, 
when  dressed,  ,-hould  be  eaten  by  invalids. 

Caudle. 

Make  a  fine  smooth  gruel  of  half-grits  ;  strain  it 
when  boiled  well,  stir  it  at  times  till  cold.  When  to 
he  used,  add  sugar,  wine,  and  lemon-peel,  with  nut¬ 
meg.  Some  like  a  spoonful  of  brandy  besides  the 
wine;  others  like  lemon  juice. 

Another. — Boil  up  half  a  pint  of  fine  gruel,  with  a 
bit  of  butter  the  size  of  a  large  nutmeg,  a  large 
spoonful  of  brandy,  the  same  of  white  wine,  one  of 
capillaire,  a  bit  of  lernon-peel  and  nutmeg. 

Cold  Caudle. 

Boil  a  quart  of  spring  water  ;  when  coid,  add  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  the  juice  of  a  sm.dl  lemon,  six  spoon¬ 
fuls  of  sweet  wine,  sugar  to  your  taste,  and  syrup 
of  lemons  one  ounce. 

18* 


210 


A  Flour  Caudle. 

Into  five  large  spoonfuls  of  the  purest  water,  rub 
smooth  one  dessert-spoonful  of  fine  flour.  Set  over 
the  fire  five  spoonfuls  of  new  milk,  and  put  two  bits 
of  sugar  into  it  :  the  moment  it  boils,  pour  into  it  the 
flour  and  water,  and  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire  twenty 
minutes.  It  is  a  nourishing  and  gently  astringent 
food.  This  is  an  excellent  food  for  babies  who  have 
weak  bowels. 

Rice  Caudle. 

When  the  water  boils,  pour  into  it  some  grated 
rice  mixed  with  a  little  cold  water  ;  when  of  a  pro¬ 
per  consistence,  add  sugar,  lemon-peel,  and  cinna¬ 
mon,  and  a  glass  of  brandy  to  a  quart.  Boil  all 
smooth. 

To  mull  Wine. 

Boil  some  spice  in  a  little  water  till  the  flavour  is 
gained,  then  add  an  equal  quantity  of  port,  some  su¬ 
gar  and  nutmeg  ;  boil  together,  and  serve  with 
toast. 

Another  way. — Boil  a  bit  of  cinnamon  and  some 
grated  nutmeg  a  few  minutes,  in  a  large  tea-cupful  of 
water  ;  then  pour  to  it  a  pint  of  port  wine,  and  add 
sugar  to  your  taste  :  bent  it  up  and  it  will  be  ready 

Or  it  may  be  made  of  good  British  wine. 

Milk  Porridge.  • 

Make  a  fine  gruel  of  half  grits,  long  boiled  ;  strain 
off ;  either  add  cold  milk,  or  warm  with  milk,  as  may 
be  approved.  Serve  with  toast. 

French  Milk  Porridge. 

Stir  some  oat  meal  and  water  together,  let  it  stand 
to  be  clear,  and  pour  off  the  latter  ;  pour  fresh  upon 
it,  stir  it  well,  let  it  stand  till  next  day  ;  strain 
a  fine  sieve,  and  boil  the  water,  adding  milk 


211 

while  doing.  The  proportion  of  water  must  be 
small. 

This  is  much  ordered,  with  toast,  for  the  breakfast 
of  weak  persons,  abroad. 

Ground  Rice  Milk. 

Boil  one  spoonful  of  ground  rice,  rubbed  down 
smooth,  with  three  half  pints  of  milk,  a  bit  of  cinna¬ 
mon,  lemon-peel,  and  nutmeg.  Sweeten  when 
nearly  done. 

Sago. 

To  prevent  the  earthy  taste,  soak  it  in  cold  water 
an  hour  ;  pour  that  olf,  and  wash  it  well  ;  then  add 
more,  and  simmer  gently  till  the  berries  are  clear, 
with  lemon-peel  and  spice,  if  approved.  Add  wine 
and  sugar,  and  boil  all  up  together. 

Sago  Milk. 

Cleanse  as  above,  and  boil  it  slowly,  and  wholly" 
with  new  milk.  It  sw'ells  sd  much,  that  a  small 
quantity  will  be  sufficient  for  a  quart,  and  when  done 
it  will  be  diminished  to  about  a  pint.  It  requires  no 
sugar  or  flavouring, 

Asses '  Milk 

Far  surpasses  any  imitation  of  it  that  can  be  made. 
It  should  be  milked  into  a  glass  that  is  kept  warm  by 
being  in  a  basin  of  hot  water. 

The  fixed  air  that  it  contains  gives  some  people  a 
pain  in  the  stomach.  At  first  a  tea  spoonful  of  rum 
may  be  taken  with  it,  but  should  only  be  put  in  the 
moment  it  is  to  be  swallowed. 

Artificial  Asses'  Milk. 

Boil  together  a  quart  of  water,  a  quart  of  new  milk, 
an  ounce  of  white  sugar  candy,  half  an  ounce  oferin- 
go  root,  and  half  an  ounce  of  conserve  of  roses,  till 
half  be  wasted. 


0  i 

This  is  astringent ;  therefore  proportion  the  doses 
to  the  effect,  and  the  quantity  to  what  will  be  used 
while  sweet. 

Water  Gruel. 

Put  a  large  spoonful  of  oatmeal  by  degrees  into  a 
pint  of  water,  and  when  smooth,  boil  it. 

Another  way. — Rub  smooth  a  large  spoonful  of 
oatmeal,  with  two  of  water,  and  pour  it  into  a  pint 
of  water  boiling  on  the  fire  ;  stir  it  well,  and  boil  it 
quick  ;  but  take  care  it  does  not  boil  over.  In  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  strain  it  off ;  and  add  salt  and  a 
bit  of  butter  w'hen  eaten.  Stir  until  the  butter  be 
incorporated. 

Barley  Gruel. 

Wash  four  ounces  of  pearl  barley,  boil  it  in  tw_' 
quarts  of  water  and  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  till  reducen 
to  a  quart ;  strain,  and  return  it  into  the  sauce-pan 
with  sugar,  and  three  quarters  of  a  pint  of  port  wine. 
Heat  up,  and  use  as  wanted. 

A  refreshing  drink  in  a  Fever. 

Put  a  little  tea-sage,  two  sprigs  of  balm,  and  a  little 
wood-sorrel,  into  a  stone  jug,  having  first  washed 
and  dried  them  ;  peel  thin  a  small  lemon,  and  clear 
from  the  white  ;  slice  it,  and  put  a  bit  of  the  peel  in  ; 
then  pour  in  three  pints  of  boiling  water,  sweeten, 
and  cover  it  close. 

Another  drink. — Wash  extremely  well  an  ounce 
of  pearl  barley  ;  shift  it  twice,  then  put  to  it  three 
pints  of  water,  an  ounce  of  sweet  almonds  beaten 
tine,  and  a  bit  of  lemon-peel  ;  boil  till  you  have  a 
smooth  liquor,  then  put  in  a  little  syrup  of  lemons 
and  capillaire. 

A  most  pleasomt  Drink. 

Put  a  tea-cupful  of  cranberries  into  a  cup  of  wa 


213 


\ 


ter,  and  mash  them.  In  the  meantime  boil  two 
quarts  of  water  with  one  large  spoonful  of  oatmeal, 
and  a  bit  of  lemon-peel ;  then  add  the  cranberries, 
and  as  much  fine  Lisbon  sugar  as  shall  leave  a  smart 
flavour  of  the  fruit ;  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  sher¬ 
ry,  or  less,  as  may  be  proper  :  boil  all  half  an  hour, 
and  strain  off. 

Soft  end  fine  Draught  for  those  who  are  weak  and 


have  a  Cough. 


Beat  a  fresh  laid  egg,  and  mix  it  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  new  milk  warmed,  a  large  spoonful  of  ca- 
pillaire,  the  same  of  rose-water,  and  a  little  nutmeg 
scraped.  Do  not  warm  it  after  the  egg  is  put  in. — 
Take  it  the  first  and  last  thing. 


Toast  and  IVdter. 


Toast  slowly  a  thin  piece  of  bread,  till  extremely 
brown  and  hard,  but  not  the  least  black  ;  then  plunge 
it  into  a  jug  of  cold  water,  and  cover  it.over  an  hour 
before  used.  This  is  of  particular  use  in  weak  bow¬ 
els.  It  should  be  of  a  fine  brown  colour  before 
drinking  it. 


White-wine  Whey. 


Put  half  a  pint  of  new  milk  on  the  fire  ;  the  mo¬ 
ment  it  boils  up,  pour  in  as  much  sound  raisin  wine 
as  will  completely  turn  it,  and  it  looks  clear  ;  let  it 
boil  up,  then  set  the  sauce-pan  aside  till  the  curd 
subsides,  and  do  not  stir  it.  Pour  the  whey  off,  and 
add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  a  bit  of 
white  sugar.  Thus  you  will  have  a  whey  perfectly 
cleared  of  milky  particles,  and  as  weak  as  you  choose 
to  make  it. 


FINIS 


CONTENTS 


BEEF,  a-!a  mode 

27 

FOWL,  to  boil ;  do.  with  rice  ;  roasted  72 

fricandeau  of ;  rump,  to  stew 

28 

broiled  ;  nice  way  to  dress. 

brisket,  to  stew  ;  to  press 

29 

Davenport 

73 

banter’s,  to  make  jjexcelleut 

FORCEMEAT,  to  force  fowls  or 

mode  of  dressing 

30 

meat,  for  cold  savoury  pies  ;  for 

steaks,  do.  and  oyster  sauce, 

turtle 

10, 

Mewed 

31 

FRITTERS, 

129 

6teaks,  Italian  ;  Collops  ; 

GAME,  directions  for  dressing 

70 

palates 

32 

to  keep 

77 

cakes,  side  dish  ;  to  pot ; 

GIBLETS,  toBtew 

76 

sirloin,  to  dres9 

33 

GROUSE,  to  roast 

79 

fricassee  of ;  olives  ;  to 

GUINEA  and  Pea-Fowl 

8® 

mince  ;  to  hash 

34 

GRAVY,  to  keep  a  week,  to  dress 

93 

a-la-vingrette  ;  round  of; 

clear,  brown,  or  Cullis 

94 

rolled 

35 

for  fowl ;  veal 

95 

heart 

35 

to  make  mutton  eat  like 

BLACK  PUDDINGS, 

58 

venison  ;  for  fish 

96 

BIRDS,  cheap  way  of  potting 

78 

HALIBUT,  to  dress 

14 

BUTTER,  to  clarify  for  potted  thiogs  lb 

HADDOCK,  to  dry 

17 

to  melt 

103 

HERRINGS,  to  dress  ;  baked 

13 

BECHAMEL,  or  white  sauce 

94 

fried ;  broiled 

20 

RREAD,  CAKES,  ic.  189  tp  213 

HOG’S  HEAD,  to  make  excellent 

COD,  head  and  shoulders  ;  crimp 

14 

meat  of 

55 

sounds,  boiled ;  do.  to  look 

ears,  to  force 

55 

like  chickens  ;  do.  broiled  ;  do.  ra¬ 

puddings,  white 

59 

gout!  *alt,  to  dress 

15 

lard 

60 

CRAB  hot;  dressed,  cold 

21 

HOUSE-LAMB  STEAKS,  brown 

68 

CALF’S  HEAD,  to  boil 

46- 

JELLY,  of  pig's  feet  and  ears 

59 

to  hash  ;  fricasseed 

47 

savoury,  for  cold  pies 

95 

to  collar  ;  mock  turtle 

48 

to  cover  cold  fish 

97 

CALF’S  LIVER, 

49 

KITCHEN  PEPPER, 

103 

sweetbread  ;  kidney 

50 

LOBSTERS,  to  pot ;  stewed  ;  but¬ 

CHINA  CHILO, 

67 

tered 

20 

CHICKENS,  fricassee  of;  to  pull ; 

te  roast ;  currie  of, 

21 

eurvil 

74 

LAMB,  leg  ;  fore-quarter  ;  breast 

CRUST,  raised,  for  meat  pies, 

with  cucumbers 

67 

fowls,  Sec, 

114 

steaks  ;  cutlets,  with  spi¬ 

CUSTARDS,  lemon,  almond,  &,c. 

141 

nach  ;  head  and  hinge 

68 

CHEESECAKES, 

143 

sweetbreads 

69 

COOKERY,  for  the  sick  207  to  211 

LAMB-STONES,  fricasseed 

ib. 

DUCKS,  to  roast ,  to  boil  ;  to  stew 

75 

nice  dish  of 

"0 

DUMPLINGS,  suet 

127 

LARKS,  and  other  small  birds 

77 

yest,  or  Suffolk 

ib. 

MACKAREL,  boiled, 

17 

EELS,  spitchcork,  fried 

18 

MEATS,  to  choose 

23 

boiled  ;  broth  ;  collared 

19 

MUTTON,  shoulder,  to  stew 

25 

FISH,  to  choose 

9 

MARROW  BONES, 

38 

FLOUNDERS,  to  fry 

ia 

MOOK  BRAWN, 

5& 

'  r 


